remski2
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Posts posted by remski2
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Well.. is your battery at 9V or is the ECU showing 9V ?
Have you taken a multimeter and checked what the voltage is ?
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This log looks good.. Seems like you dipped the sensor for 10sec and this was reflected in the smoot temp rise..
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I think its working as intended.
You reach TP below 4% @0:22:594 and it turns on 0:22:688 .. so thats about 90ms later..
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Your IAT is wrong as well as your ECT.
ECT instead of climbing, is dropping.
Your wheel speed is all over the place..
Fuel temp is 32F.. it should also be rising a bit.
Easiest way to test this on cold engine..
Your IAT, ECT, Fuel temps should all read pretty much the same.
I'd check grounds and connections.. as I think all 3 are related.
Go back and test each sensor one by one.
This might be related to your 5V out as it seems to be moving from 4.994 to 5.002.
I know its not a big jump.. but as compared to mine it stays at 4.99 constantly.
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If you have logged your tests.. post the map and log file here.. maybe there is something there that would help.
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For starters....
You need to fix your IAT. Its adding 4%.
Also you should wait until all your trims are done, then tune the AFR.. Your log still shows Warm up enrichment active.
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Your "CAN Anti-theft Request" = ON
Yet you have no CAN configurations.. and "Allow CAN anti-theft" is set to NO...
Maybe its a bug...
Enable it "save" then disable and "save" and try then ?
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There is a 4D Fuel table thats removing fuel as the throttle moves.
Only active at low TP
So Accel Enrich adds ~500% and 4D Fuel removes 5-15% both pretty much at the same time..
Maybe the tuner forgot about that table, or there is something I dont understand yet.
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20 hours ago, Wildt267 said:
it's more of a low load thing. Doesn't really seem to be getting them in boost
My dwell table goes from about 5ms dropping down to 2.8ms at high rpm. I think i tried to increase the dwell a bit awhile back but didnt see and change so i backed them back down.
That still doesnt tell us which coils you have.
Your table setting are for 5ms coils..
Black coils are 3ms Grey coils are 5ms
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Your coils.. they are 3ms or 5ms. ?
And is that reflected in the dwell table.
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If it run for 3 years and now dies.. its most likely not the ECU.. but it could tell you where the problem is.
Post your log and calibration file.
Just too many variables to list that could be the problem.
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59 minutes ago, k4nnon said:
Thanks for the input. Iv done a few recalibrations and it still seems to do it. im thinking i might need to reclock my tps sensor and then recal. ill give that a try.
Thanks for the input!!
Hey Thanks,, That may be correct, I have not tried to adjust any of those settings as of yet so i will look into this as well..
Thanks!!
I'd re-clock only if your volt readings are not within specs... 0.5V - 4.5V I believe.. otherwise I dont think it will make any difference.
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Mine jumps as well by about 0.2% ...
I thought thats what the deadband setting is for...
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If your mapper cant provide you a safe transit map you should re-think your choices.
2nd.. you are boosting an untuned engine and have no tuning experience .. why ?
If you want to learn.. Evans Performance and/or HP Academy is the way to do it.
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I use 5D ignition for my AFR enging protection...
Active above 60% TPS.
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If you removed the stopper you probably are going beyond the potentiometer scale, thus damaging the pedal as well.
Voltage might go to open circuit as you go too far.. thus throwing the DCCD off.
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Hi.
First thing.. you have no knock signal coming in, so that alone questions the tuner.
This is what I would do...
1. Setup the knock sensor.. unless you dont care aobut your engine.
2. I'd clear the boost tables and run wastgate just to confirm it shows steady ~8psi. (if thats your spring)
Based on the above you'll know if that header works or not.
3. Only if the wg is working properly I'd start increasing the wg duty..
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https://www.ionos.com/digitalguide/server/configuration/resolving-0xc0000005-errors/
Malware scan and Mem diagnostics would be the first ones I'd do.
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Have a look at your knock..
You either knocking or have false knock.. causing the ecu to pull up to 10deg on different cylinders.
Also clear out your knock trim tables, as I see them pulling timing even when when no knock is detected.
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I'd check the TPS as its fluctuating quite a bit.
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I'd say 14.5 Max
You should have a regulator build in....
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Your battery volage ranges between 15-16V.. thats a tad too high... I'd start there first.
Fail safe setup.
in G4x
Posted
60 kPa oil pressure is about 8.7psi.. (I use psi..)
My Idle Oil pressure is at ~200 - 260kPa.
So unless I am reading it wrong you letting your engine rev to 9000rpm with only 8.7psi....
I have Oil Pressure / rpm table. ( limiting rpm)
Fuel pressure / MGP, since I have a rasing rate regulator (turbo) (limiting rpm)
Lambda / MAP ( removing timing)
Here are my tables.