ashesman

To be honest I am out of ideas for you to try. Those diagrams I sent have been used for years now to wire those ECU's to Subaru's so there are no mistakes there. Wire it how the diagram says and it should be OK. IF not, start doing some diagnostic work with a timing light to see when the cylinders are firing. Your ECU is set up for V1 to 6 crank/cam sensors, not V7-9 sensors, so make sure you are not using a V7-9 engine. I believe that V7 started in about 2000. If you are completely stuck you may have to get your car to one of our dealers or a specialist for some help.

Are you sure the plugs are not so fouled that it cant fire them? So many people are convinced that the ignition system will fire wet or black plugs, but usually they wont... Master is located in the fuel menu part of PCLink. Reduce the amount of fuel down by heaps, put some new plugs in and see if it will go. Have you put a timing light on No.1 to see if it is firing near TDC?

Email [email protected] or phone. The ECU will probably need to be sent back. Depending on what the ECU is set up to run on there may be no need to change it... Note that the reply from tech email may be slow as they are down on staff this week...

The tacho wire (brown/white) will output one pulse for every ignition event. So, it will output a six cylinder tacho signal on a six cylinder engine. You will need a six cylinder tacho that can run off a low level signal. Most aftermarket tachos that are designed to run from coil negative will not work with the 0-12V tacho output. Most factory gauge clusters are happy with 0-12V.

So let me get this straight.... You open PCLink, then open up the sample file, then adjust your ECU using that? If that is what you are doing then you will have no luck adjusting your ECU. You are modifying a file that is saved on your hard drive, not the actual ECU. Here is what you need to do: Open PCLink.Turn the key on to power up the ECU. Click on the 'L' icon near the top middle of the screen. PCLink will attempt to connect to your ECU. There may be communications problems so you might need to change your COM port under the options->connection menu.Once connected the Link logo (top right of the screen) will start spinning to show connection is OK. After that any adjustments you make will be effective in the ECU. Start by adjusting the 'Master' setting to reduce the amount of fuel.When finished changing stuff, click the 'S' icon to store the changes permanently otherwise they will be lost when you turn the key off.If you have the engine running, there is probably no need to adjust the ignition setup.

Are you using the correct version of PCLink? You will need to use V2.5 for an older ECU, not PCLink 3. You should be able to see all adjustments that would be available with a tuning module...

If you have 24 teeth wired to trig 1 rthen the crank dwell extension will not be an issue. If you have 4 teeth wired then you will want some crank dwell extension, up to 10 ms. Spark duration only comes into play at high RPM. You should probably extend your dwell time at crank voltage also. If you engine starts and runs OK then it is probably not an issue...

Comlinks dont exist any more. Get a SerialLink and a USB-Serial converter if you need one.

You should not join your ignition wires together on a LinkPLus G3. If you have a four coil engine then refer to the diagram labelled "WRX/RS Four Coil - LinkPlus". The coils are wired in the firing order but not necessarily with ig 1 - cyl1. Refer to the manual about this. Wire your injectors exactly the same as the ignition. Until you get it running, don't worry about the wiring of your injectors as it will not stop the engine from starting. Check in PCLink that the "Sync/Cyl Err" is not counting up while the engine is cranking and that a stable RPM value is shown. You will need to make sure your ECU has the correct sub-board fitted for your engines triggering. Does it have the same crank angle sensor arrangement as a V1-6 Subaru or V7-9?

Firstly what ECU are you using? G2 or G3. If it is G2 I will need to know what sub-board is fitted inside the ECU. My trigger information for a GTO shows three teeth on the crank and four on the cam. You should probably be working with GTO triggering assuming your engine has the same trigger arrangement as a GTO. You will not be able to use 1 PPTDC as your engine is not distributed. You will need to do some diagnostic work to make sure you have the cam sensor wired to trigger 2 and crank wired to trigger 1. Have you connected the power supply and grounds for the sensors. Check in PCLink that a YES is shown for each trigger signal and that no trigger errors are counting up (1 or two on the first engine revolution is OK). Remember to do a timing calibration.

You need to connect the ECU's Ig 1 wire to IGT. Leave IGF disconnected. It is most likely you have a triggering problem still. When you crank your engine does it show correct RPM and no trigger errors?

You will not have stuffed up or wiped the tune by removing the battery. It is more likely you have upset a wiring connection or not fitted a ground wire. If you have fuel (the right amount) and ignition (at the correct time) your engine will start so obviously you do not have one or both of those. Do you have a tuning module or laptop to do some diagnostic work?

Subaru firing order is 1,3,2,4. Wire it how the diagrams show and all should be OK... You will have to look into why your FP doesn't work. The FP should run for a few seconds at key on then run while the engine is running.

Contact him at [email protected]

No G1 EVO plug ins were ever PC tuneable. V4 LEM wire in was PC tuneable...

Contact [email protected] for info on what V5 has that V3 doesn't. I dont know alot about the older systems...

You may be able to find a base setup for your engine, but I think you will have to configure it. G1 ECU's were usually sold setup ready to go for a particualr engine (still need tuning), so you should already be pretty close.

I am not putting a date on the Honda motor, I will juust say we are looking at it... There is a LEM G3 Yaris AdaptaLink in production, contact [email protected]

Those boost options should be invisible, so don't select them at the moment... To avoid people asking us over and over (not directed at you) for stuff we have decided not to announce when features will be released...

Well, first you need to decide if your car even has a VICS (whatever that is) solenoid. If so, then you will somehow need to connect its control wire back to the ECU. You will need to connect it to a spare Auxiliary Output at the ECU. After that, use PCLink to configure that Auxiliary Output as GP Output and set it up as required. If you change something that effects the intake then chances are you will have to retune your engine with it working...

Fit your IAT sensor in a place that accurately represents engine intake temp (just before the throttle body is always a good spot). Wire in one of two ways: Run two wires back to the ECU. In the white loom between the ECU and adapter. Connect one wire to 'Signal Ground' and the other to 'An Temp 2'.Run two wires to the MAF connector. Connect one to the MAF sensors ground and the other to the MAF sensors signal (do your own research to find out the MAF sensor pinout). Inside the adaptalink, change jumper J5 to the IAT-AFM position. After wiring, in PCLink configure An Temp 2 as IAT. check that the sensor is reading correctly in the analog inputs runtim values tab.

I can email a diagram for wiring the CAS sensors if you give me your email address...

With that setup your ECU will run on an engine that has a magnetic (reluctor) crank angle sensor with the same number of teeth on it as the engine has cylinders... It is running V3 software and can be upgraded to V5 software. Contact [email protected] for more info...

Hmmmm, there is no wiring diagram as such for the power transistor. Did your transistor blow up and you need to replace it or are you trying to wire a HeaderLink for the first time? It may be easier to just wire a relay instead of the power transistor...

We will get that triggering stuff sorted directly... As for balancing the turbo's, they will effectively balance in the intake manifold all by themselves, the important thing is where you place the pressure takeoff for the waste gate actuators. Each side will control itself to keep the pressure at the takeoff point constant. One of the guys here has just done a twin turbo setup on a V8 if you want some help...