ashesman

Heaps of people ask for base maps here, but unfortunately hardly ever get a reply...Â

Red = +12V Switched Black = gnd Black = sensor gnd Brown/Black = sensor signal Most factory sensors can be used without a problem...

Doesn't sound too ambitious to me... Would have been better to but a new system for all the nice little features for daily driving but you should be able to get a good tune and as much power as you can using that ECU...

No, even slots means the engine will run as "1 tooth per TDC" using the even width slots. That would require a generic hall sub board. I also believe that you may have to adjust the rotor offset by drilling a new rotor pin hole...

Map switching would be done off a GP input so switching would occur within 8ms. Remember that the new tables fuel value cant be used until the next engine cycle. One engine cycle at 15000 RPM takes 8ms so as far as tuning is concerned the maps will switch immediately... Interrupt response time is in the nanoseconds range but processor data sheets will not tell you how much code has to execute and other events that must happen before the effect of your DI switch will be seen...

Dont know... You would have to check the pinout is the same as the models the adapter is designed for...

The duty cycle goes up by about six percent. When the engine comes back to idle it will hold at 6% above for the 'hold time', then 3% above for the 'hold time' after that it will drop back to the base and attempt to trim using closed loop. If you see a RPM Lockout message then you have your RPM lockout value set too low. It should be set to about 500 RPM. The loss of engine braking is partially due to using no speed digital input. Your speed lockout would help prevent idle control from operating while the vehicle is moving.

I imagine the price could vary between $300 to $800 depending on where you go... You should probably start ringing around some tuning shops for a price...

There will be no wiring diagrams explaining how to connect it through the MAF connector. A temperature sesnor has two wires. One goes to the ECU's signal ground, one goes to the ECU's An Temp 2 channel. I have explained clearly above how to connect it...

If your CAS has 360 and 6 DIFFERENT WIDTH slots then it will work with the sub-board you already have. However, to run multi-coil you will need a V5 upgrade. Contact [email protected] for more details on the upgrade and a price. It is policy not to put pricing on the forum...

If your dizzy has 360 and 6 DIFFERENT WIDTH slots then you have the correct sub-board. However, V3 does not do multi-coil applications. A V5 upgrade would allow you to do your direct/wasted spark setup and would give you a larger fuel and ignition map as well as some other benefits. Contact [email protected] for more info and a price for upgrades. It is policy not to put prices on the forums...

Set An Volt 1 to WB #1. Set your wideband calibration (Voltage point A will be 5V). Set An Volt 2 to Boost Adjust. Under the fuel menu, select Closed Loop Lambda. Set the mode to stoich mode. About 8 adjustments should appear. I dont know why you can see any adjustments. Make sure you are using the latest firmware and PCLink. Turn the key off, close PCLink and then try again...

When used for general purpose switching response time is less than 8ms. When used for time critical stuff like flat shifting they are interrupt driven...

Things like off power tuning, idle control and all that sort of stuff will not change much with your mods. Full power tune will require a bit of tweaking after your mods. Depends on if you want to pay to have it tuned twice or just wait until its all good. At least it would allow you to see what gains your extra mods make...

What you need is a good tuner, not necessarily one experienced with your car type or a Link ECU. It is their reputation that is most important... Check the dealers page of www.linkecu.com for the closest person to you. They shouldn't take more than a day to do the actual tune work but may need to keep it for a few days to do cold start tuning and some of the other finer points...

The idle value may change to a higher value if the numbers you are using are too far out from where they need to be. You can adjust the min clamp number down to whatever you need. You will need to check that when the key is turned on the ISC stepper should wind itself all the way closed to reset then open a little distance. If the numbers are too big it will open too far, hit the end of its travel and loose its position...

The ECU will come with a 2.5m breakout loom. You will need connectors for the injectors (we can supply some types) and idle valves so usually end up attaching to factory wiring about 6-10 inches back from the part. We have an engineer drawing up the parts in solidworks for cutting at the moment so when you need one let us know. I don't imagine they will be too expensive...

This unit could be a lemon... It can be sent back for testing if required. Lets check you wired it correctly: Cut the wire going from the factory ECU to the ignition module (igniter) Green Wire - Connects to the cut wire coming from the ECUBlue - Connect to the cut wire going to the distributor Red - +12V ignition switched or same power supply as factory ECUBlacks - Connect both to the engine blockOrange - Connect to the ground side of your ADDITIONAL injectors. Power the other side of the injectors from the factory injector power supply. Note that this unit does not connect to the cam angle sensors signal to the factory ECU. It connects between the ECU and the igniter...

There is no way to tune the car using the MAF sensor. You will need to purchase a wideband oxygen sensor kit or something like that. I can tell you that tuning you car will be a little frustrating if you have never done it before. I can assure you that you can not do it without the right tools. As for the IAT sensor. Have a look in the LEM G3 Wiring and Install Manual.

We have sold quite a few systems for VVTi V8's, but I haven't heard a lot of talk on these forums about it. Have a look on the dealers site of our web page to find someone close to you for wiring. Make sure to test your intake running solenoid, and vacuum system as the solenoids fail and vacuum systems leak...

We are working on our own "approved design" at the moment as we have had too much trouble with all the home made ones. Believe it or not it is important to have the correct shaping of the teeth and gap to ensure a stable signal... We should be able to supply them in the very near future. They will be a blank wheel with the teeth cut and a pilot hole in the centre.  How soon do you need one?

Wiring it off the coil feed is a bad idea as there is already huge current draw on the coil fuse, but like you say is not going to fix the problem. I am unsure why you are having these issues. If your CL idle is set up properly it shouldn't matter if the idle valve is changing with temperature as the closed loop system will just compensate for it. What does the idle status say when it is in closed loop mode while the problem is occurring? Good effort on your 11.6. I can assure you that you can get to at least the same time running our ECU as the Microtech. There is no horse power in ECU's, just in tuning...

What you have is a TurboLink 2. It is not a full engine management ECU but rather an additional injector controller and timing modifier. It is designed for generating timing retard and adding extra fuel on engines that have been converted to forced induction running the factory ECU. An instruction manual can be downloaded HERE.

It might help when the engine is off boost... Only dyno testing will prove if the VICS system will be of use.

You will be surprised at how little difference there is between group fie and sequential fueling... but sequential fueling does offer a slightly better running engine. There is no difference in power whatsoever.