ashesman

Password protection will not be included in PCLink until the release of PCLink 4 (no date set yet). This is due to some limitations of the current PCLink.

A switch and preferably a G3 ECU... Oh and a good tuner to set it up so it doesn't toast your engine!!!

It is quite high priority to get on board data logging running... You can still datalog direct to your PDA if you want to write some basic software to do it. The ECU has a user datastream that can be requested. It would be up to you to request it and store it appropriately. Anyways, we hope to get on board logging sorted in the near future...

You will need to get the correct polarity of the sensor using appropriate diagnostic tools. If you dont your engine probably will not run or will have erratic timing. The required resistors depend on what the resistance of your current injectors is. If they are under about 2 ohms you would probably run 4R7 or 2R2 at the minimum for a single injector per drive. Once running, make sure you take your vehicle to a good tuner for dyno tuning or you will never be happy with the result. Unlike older Link ECU's, these G3 ECU's are a bit too complex to tune properly while driving...

PCLink is Windows only....

Distributed means it runs a distributor for the ignition...

Yeah, you already answered your question. The group/sequential thing is really an economy and emissions thing. I have always seen similar driveability from group and sequential injection and all cars we have dyno'd produce similar power on both. But it does depend on injector sizing too. The LEM cant do launch/anti lag and flat shifting at the same time due to one DI... If you have spent that much, do the job properly and fit the LinkPlus G3!

Yeah, sorry... the last row starts at 2.0 Bar. Fuel values at higher boost pressures increase linearly as MAP increases (double MAP = double fuel).

So it is a variable frequency signal, not variable pulse width. There is no setting in the ECU (in current or older firmware versions) that will generate this output. Contact VDO and see if they have a temperature transducer that you can fit and wire to the dash.

Sorry, cant help on this one...

The ECU must be sent back for upgrade there is not really any other way around it. That is one of the draw backs of internal map sensors. Contact [email protected] for more info on this.

Does it have a hand made adapter or is it actually a LP G3 with a plug in adapter box thingee. If it is a handmade G2 adapter then you will need to get an auto sparky to fix your wiring issues. If it is a G2 then the widest slot setting on the sub board will probably need adjusting to get the triggering to work. Contact Jason at Infomotive for help getting it sorted...

To be honest I don't have alot of info on general wiring for that engine. I can tell you where to wire the sensors to if that helps: Trig1 - CAS Reluctor (make sure you have the correct polarity)Trig 2 - Inlet cam sensorDigital Input - Exhaust cam position sensor - By convention we use DI 3 but it could be any DIInlet cam solenoid - Aux Channel (By convention Aux 1)Exhaust cam solenoid - Aux channel (by convention Aux 3) The rest of the install is covered in the wiring and installation manual. I know you can find pinout info on the web.

That system is tunable if you remove the lid and plug a Link tuning module into the back of it. You will be able to change the switch point of your VTEC solenoid once in there.  Assuming no one has been in there and played, that controller will have a TurboLink base setup in it so if it switches at 6500 that will have been what they asked for. Anyways, the product is called a TurboLink. You can download the manual for tuning it from this website.

I had a loook at those pictures and here is what you will have to do: Run the wires coming from the bottom of the distributor (white and white/red) directly to the ECU using the supplied shielded cables. You must get the reluctor polarity of the senor correct. You will then need to wire an external ignitor between the ECU and coil. A Link single channel ignitor will do the job. They may have had one TPS for the ECU and one for the trans controller or just for reliability. You could wire either one to the ECU just as long as they span from fully closed to fully open.

The aux output based on external inputs is already on the to do list... Not sure if you will ever be able to alter the RPM limit based on external inputs but I will add it to the request list...

I have no idea on this one. The manual does not make it that clear. You will have to try adjusting the large and small zones and see if their effects are cumulative. I would imagine from the other old products that the large changes are like a course adjustment and the small changes are a fine adjustment.

Yeah, that is correct.  255 will equal 25.5 for SPAN.

Attach a copy of your log and I will tell you what the values mean. It will be quicker than going hunting for the information...

MAP sensor typically reads up to 21 psi. At boost pressures above 15 psi it will use the numbers in the rows at that particular boost level. Interpolation is only used between rows.

Running the ford throttle body will be no problem. Just be careful as it will probably have very low impedance injectors fitted that may require ballasting. As for the ignition. I would need to know what is actually inside the distributor in the way of pickup and trigger wheels. If you want you could go to a wasted spark arrangement and run the two post Holden or Ford coil packs (EF Falcon had a suitable coil pack). You would then need to fit a crank angle sensor and wheel (eg 36-2 teeth). A cam angle sensor would not be required. Chances are you wiull be able to run the distrbutor but I need to know more about it. Perhaps some pictures of its internals...

Six high impedance injectors (13 or higher ohm) can run from one drive...

You can only use one MAP sensor with the ECU. I would supply the MAP sensor from both plenums so that the MAP reading averages out. For consistent running you should have a balance bar between the plenums to ensure that both banks get even manifold pressure and hence are more likely to run even mixtures... You will also need a TPS that is representative of the throttle opening on both plenums.

There is no easy way to do this. I would suggest running two sets of injectors and staging them that way. The only way to run three sets of injectors with our ECU's would be to use a switchable output to enable the last set of injectors when you get to a certain load point.  The most important thing with staged injection is the transition between injectors. The ECU includes staged injection software to transition between two sets of injectors... Download PCLink and read the help files to see what you can do...

If it works with other systems then there is no reason why it wouldn't work with the MiataLink ECU. The MiataLink ECU will output a dwell time length pulse that is idle at 0V then goes to 12V for dwell, then back to 0V to fire. The pulse will happen twice per engine cycle on ecah channel.  I know your ECU is not very old but if it is running Link software, chances are that it hasn't been updated for 6 years now, alot of technology has changed since then...