ashesman

Due date for PCLink 4 has not been set. I would expect middle of this year at the earliest as it is a big job to make it Vista compatible. Help files sent.

I have never seen this setup before and I am not even sure what a AEM Twin Fire is. If it is a four channel CDI or something like that then it may or may not work with the ECU. The ECU has two ignition outputs that fire twice per engine cycle to drive the wasted spark setup. If the AEM thing needs four ignition inputs to drive four coils then it may not work with the ECU as you would have to wire each ECU output to two AEM inputs. Some ignition units can not fire two coils at the same time. It would probably be a wate to go to COP if you were to be firing the coild twice per cycle anyway. Wasted spark arrangements are good for over 400hp so think hard before replacing it. If you were to upgrade to an LEM G3 then you could have four ignition outputs and all the other benefits of the G3 ECU...

It is definitly in the pipeline but not promises as to when. Unfortuneately there have been some higher priority development jobs but data logging quite important to us...

OK, sorry about that. We had a batch of looms that had a few with this problem (4 now). We have taken action with the loom supplier as well as manually checking all looms leaving the buildings...

PCLink is not currently recommended as Vista compatible. PCLink 4 is in development that will be Vista compatible. If you give me your email address I can send a Vista help file that you can use (it can be browsed and searched but wont work with PCLink). But unfortuneately I cannot help with the abnormal termination problem. I know its a pain but for now you would be best to borrow a XP laptop. Heaps of people have used PCLink on Vista without problems but we have also heard of a few people having issues...

ECU's do not "Go Bad"... They could develop an electrical fault but not really one that would cause hard starting and electrical faults are pretty rare. Each ECU is tuned for a particular vehicle. If somebody elses ECU made your car start better then chances are it is tuned for better starting on your engine than your ECU is. Maybe you should take the starting numbers from the other ECU and put them in yours...

Only one or the other...

Try checking what is happening with the overrun fuel cut and increasing your throttle plate opening. With a light flywheel you should have a faster idle speed. You should get the faster idle speed by opening the throttle rather than expecting the ISC valve to catch it if you are having stalling trouble. I dont really know why it is hard to start, there can only be two things. Either it is rich and floods when it stalls or too lean when trying to start. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Good work...

The air con trim does not change when the vehicle is moving or stopped if that is what you mean? Start setting up your boost control with a 2D table. Start the table at about 2000 RPM with the lowest value at 0% (to prevent the solenoid clicking at idle). After that put the DC to 100% for fastest spool up and then enter the required DC for the boost value you want. The actual numbers vary heaps depending on your engine. Also use 20Hz duty cycle. You can use the IAT and ECT boost trims to compensate. We recommend Innovate LC-1 WB controllers, they seem to be pretty good. Not many controllers work at low voltages as they need a certain voltage to drive the sensor heater properly. If you sensor is too far back it will be harder to heat requireing a higher voltage...

All you need is a coolant temp sensor (100% necessary for any engine management system). You need all of the following stuff which we can supply: Coolant Temp Sensor (100% necessary) Throttle Position Sensor (100% necessary)Intake Temp Sensor for IAT compensation (not 100% necessary but recommended)Oxygen Sensor for closed loop lambda (not 100% necessary but recommended)

That ECU can run a distributed setup using the 6 even spaced slots in the distributor. It will need a hall sub board fitted and you will need to shift the rotor in the distributor by drilling a new locating hole. One of our dealers did this last week. Contact [email protected] for getting your ECU changed.

A narrow band sensor has a voltage that increases as the engine gets richer. As CLL has to work with both narrow and wideband sensors you need to make you wideband sensor also have a voltage that increases as the engine gets richer (eg 22:1 = 0V (point A), 8:1 = 5V (point ). That will involve recalibrating the wideband sensors output and then changing the ECU to match the output. After that a dither voltage of approx 2.4 volts will give CLL targeting 14.7:1.

Depends what ECU you have. If it is a plug-in ECU for an evo then they are not PC tunable. In that case you tune with the tuning module and can log with a SerialLink and the old comlink software.If it is a wirein such as a LEM (G1) or LinkPlus (G1) then they can be PC tuned or upgraded to PC tune. With PCtune you can datalog and tune using the laptop. As far as I know you have to use a Link map sensor with the older ECU's...

PCLink includes the drivers for connecting to your G3 ECU using windows XP or Windows Vista. If you plugged your ECU into the USB before installing PCLink then you will not be able to connect. The list of cars in the "Base Maps" folder has nothing to do with connecting to your ECU. Click the 'L' icon at the top centre of the screen to start communications with your ECU.

You will have no trouble finding R33 wiring info on the web. As for the ECU wiring manual, download it HERE.

Well, your computer was originally set up for a Toyota 4AGZE engine. It is a LEM (G1) running V5e software. Not sure how it runs your engine, it may have been modified to suit your application. Is it a Mazda or Nissan GTR? You will have to start doing diagnostic work to determine why it will not go. You didn't happen to put the battery in backwards or anything like that? There is no reason why removing the battery would causes the ECU to stop working...

We cant really do either. Our workshop and dyno facilities are for R and D purposes only. We do not perform customer work at all. We have plenty of good dealers who specialise in that work and tuning. Check out the dealers page on our web site...

We have had a couple of looms now with the same problem. Corrective action has already been taken to prevent this from happening again, sorry for your inconvenience. In all cases it has only been the Knock 2 and Trigger 2 wires that were incorrectly placed. There should be no need to check all the other wires. This would not have caused any damage to the ECU or any sensors...

Only the two main fuel tables and two main ignition tables have independently adjustable rows and columns. All other tables are spanned using start and increment values. 11 rows allows a reasonable amount of tuning precision. Remember that the 4D table is effectively a fine adjustment and that numbers between the rows are interpolated.

That depends how trusting you are. Some guys leave them in permanently "In case they get a bad batch of fuel" (skoff). Most people trust that their engine is tuned correctly and with enough margin that they don't need to leave tuning tools in their permanently. If you are an enthusiast or want to learn/do your own tuning then you could leave it in there...

I have no idea on the correct dwell for those coils, you may need to do some measurements... Have you done a trigger calibration? You need to calibrate the ECU to match the location of the crank angle sensor teeth so that it nows at what engine position the gap occurs. Read up in the PCLink help on how to do this. If you are 60 degrees out will will need to change the offset number by 60 degrees (or -60 degrees). Here is how your triggering should be setup: Trigger Mode = Multi Tooth/MissingMulti-tooth location = CrankTooth Count = 36Missing Teeth = 1Sync Level = NoSync Pulse = Yes x1 CamMulti-tooth location = CrankTrigger 1:Type = ReluctorFilter Level = 1Arming voltages to suit (determine these with an oscilloscope once the engine is running) Trigger 2Type = ReluctorArming Voltages = Check with a scope. Some Fords have super low amplitude on this sensor. Filter Level = 2 (or 1 if trigger 2 has real low amplitude) Most importantly check for trigger errors during cranking...

  At the moment there are two interpolation options, horizontal and vertical. So, to interpolate a block with the keyboard you would type: Hold down shift and use arrow keys to select a block.Press Ctrl+tPress S (for selection change)Press I once or twice for horizontal and vertical interpolation of all rows and columns in the block.  So what you are suggesting is if you select a block of cells that it will fill in the numbers in the middle based on the ones round the edges? So basically a curve fit type interpolate? Can you give me some examples of other systems that do this so I can have a look?

The oxy sensor should read, but is not the reason for your over fueling. When you say "The fuel is set to 80", do you mean that the MASTER number is set to 80? There are quite a few fuel adjustments, not to mention the main fuel table. If the engine is too rich somewhere then it needs to be leaned up at that point in the main fuel table. Spend some time and read through the ECU's manual...

From what I can tell that ECU will run your engine. We still are unsure what the special V42spec2 software was for but it shouldn't be a problem. There are two parts to your install. The first is to get it wired and get the engine running... The next part is to get it to a tuning shop and have the engine dyno tuned. Some tuning shops will do the entire job for you...