ashesman

We cant really make another analog input appear on your LEM G3, but how about doing the following to solve your problem...  You can wire the LC1 to An Volt 1. Reverse the calibration to 5 down to 0 volts and run CLL from the wideband at the same time as displaying AFR. you do not need to run the LC1 in simulated narrow band mode. Heaps of people do this. Put your boost adjust pot onto An Volt 2.

It is set up for a distributed Nissan engine that has ECCS crank angle sensor (360 and 6 slots). You will need to get a sub-board swap done to change it for the L28 setup. You could also get it upgraded to V5 if you want. Note that the money you could sell this for plus the price of an upgrade will not be far off the cost of replacing it with a G3 ECU that will work with pretty muchly any engine.

I think the heating is to prevent the valves from freezing in really cold climates due to moisture in the air condensing on the inside of the valve. Just out of interest, how come you didn't use the factory IAC valve? Aux 5 is an OK channel to wire the ISC valve to. Make sure the positive side is wired to an ignition switched supply, not fed directly from the battery.

Very well, but I am sworn to secrecy!!! What this space over the next few months...

What channel do you have the ISC solenoid wired to? For a two wire solenoid on an LEM G3 it must be wired to Aux 1 or 2 or Aux 5 to 6. Not Aux 3 or 4 or ignition or injection channels. It must be wired to a flywheeling channel. It must be setup to operate at 200 Hz. If it is plumbed correctly from one side of the throttle body to the other then it wont matter what it is doing under boost. In fact having it open effectively enlarges your throttle body. Those solenoids always provide super stable idle in open or closed loop mode so there is something a little wrong with your setup. The adjustment on the solenoid is got to by removing the glue and turning it with an allen key. If you get an idle of 450-500 RPM with it closed then there is no need to adjust it. Make sure your throttle isn't sticking or dirty, that could cause the variation in duty cycle. ALL of the above stuff MUST be correct for the solenoid to operate properly...

Hopefuly not too far away now. We are just tidying up the last little bits now...

There are heaps of sites on the web that will help you calculate the required injector flow rate. Once you have done that you will be able to find an engine that had that flow rate injector. As you are only going for lower power, finding injectors in that size range will be easy. If you use an LEM G3, you wont need a MAF meter. I would recommend doing it this way for the best compromise on cost, performance and driveability: Use an LEM G3 as it is cheaper than the LinkPlus G3. Use a holden 6 cyl dual post coil pack so you can run wasted spark (distributorless ignition). Old distributors just result in unstable timing and poor spark energy... You will need a three channel ignitor. Fit a 36-2 toothed wheel to the crank pulley.Fit a bosch 2 wire ISC valve so you have good idle speed control.Use a innovate LC1 wideband O2 sensor if you plan to tune yourself or a three wire narrow band O2 if you just want it for economy while you are driving.

The dither voltage effectively sets the AFR target. You set the dither voltage to the voltage that your WB controller outputs at 14.7:1. You will also need to invert your WB controllers output so it goes from 5-0V with low to high AFR, not 0-5V with low to high AFR. You can intentionally try to make your CLL run lean or rich by adjusting the target voltage... Do not use injector voltage compensation to change any AFR's!!! That compensation is there to allow for battery voltage effects on injector deadtime. It should be setup once at the start of tuning for a particular set of injectors and never adjusted again...

Oh yeah, what PCLink and firmware versions are you running?

I will look into it. Keep an eye out for the next PCLink release. If we fix it it will be in the next PCLink update...

Setting up IAC is not that hard if you follow logical steps: Make sure the valve is plumbed correctly and wired to an auxiliary channel that supports ISC solenoid.Select the auxiliary channel as ISC solenoid and set the frequency to 200Hz (very important).Make sure the car is properly tuned from cold to hot. Test the ISC valve by entering different duty cycles. Higher numbers should result in a higher engine RPM. Make sure that when the DC is set to 0% the engine idles at about 400 RPM (adjust the throttle plate screw). Adjust the screw on the ISC valve to give approx 50% DC at your normal hot idle speed. Set the ISC mode to open loop. Start the car from cold and adjust the ISC solenoid duty cycles to get approximately the desired idle RPM at each temperature as the engine warms up.Switch the ISC mode to closed loop. Start with the following settings:Min Clamp = 10Max Clamp = 90TP Lockout = 1.5% (make sure TPS is spanned correctly)Speed Lockout = none (unless you have speed on DI1)RPM Lockout = 500Deadband = 10 RPMFan Step and Power Steer step = 0Set desired target RPM'sProportional gain = all 1Derivative gain = all 2Anti stall gain = all 8Startup step = all 10A/C step = all 0 Start again from cold. As the engine warms up, watch the Idle Status in the runtime values tab. When it says Target RPM, look at the Idle Position value. That is the DC required to make your target RPM. Enter that number into the Base Position table at the appropriate temperature. Trim A/C and fan step values as required.I hope that helps. My subaru runs an LEM G3 and factory ISC valve. I have absolutely no issues regarding IAT compensation. The IAT varies from 10 to 80 degrees but ISC control is always good. Those two port solenoids work really well when setup correctly...

To maintain stable running you need sable fuel and timing. If there are large changes in the numbers between zones you can get a cycling effect where it is too rich in one zone so slows down and falls into another zone where it is too lean and speeds up etc... Make sure your table numbers are reasonably close. Also have a look at overrun fuel cut settings if your ECU has them...

There are a couple of different options for fans on those ECU's. There are two wires that can be Fan Relay or Fan speed. When looking into the ECU's main connector they are third from top left and third from bottom left (above and below each other). Depending on what combination of fan relays and speed controllers are fitted to your engine will depend how the fan needs to be controlled. Aux 9 is connected to the top row pin and Aux 13 is connected to the bottom row pin...

Password protection will be released in the next PCLink major update (date not set yet). It has been written and is being put through the last stages of testing....

As a general rule AFR's are usually too unstable at idle when big cams are used. Note that our definitions of BIG cams may not be exactly the same. If your engine can idle with a steady 13.5 then the cams may not be that wild and using CLL would probably be OK. We plan to release an AFR table soem time in the future (no date set yet) that would allow you to do what you want, so for now set the lockout above idle...

So it would have Subaru V1-6 triggering. When you get your new G3, just select Subaru V1-6 triggering and enter the correct firing order. Wire coils Ign1 - cyl 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 4 to 4 and it will all just go!!!

Cant give a price to repair it. If it blew up the main IC chances are it probably took out a lot of IC's on the board...

Ummm... nope, Simon at tech will know...

In a car running big cams you should not be running CLL at idle. Especially if you are using a narrow band sensor as they are only useful at 14.7. You should set the lower RPM lockout for your CLL above idle...Â

There is no plug in Link ECU for a non turbo EJ22 (unless your engine has the same piout as one of the WRX/STi models. You would be OK with a LEM G3 on that engine. I would do a wire in to remove all the unwanted stuff from the motor. If you have all the factory sensors and igniter then you shouldn't need any parts... Best not to use an old type Link ECU... They are over ten years old now!

No... why would you run the motor with either VVT or runners not working...

D'OH... The ECU can probably be repaired if you send it back... Most likely only some failed chips. They are not really rated for 110 volts!

Its not actually the sensors, but the locations of the teeth on the crank and cam pulleys. You should know if your engine came out of a car that was before or after about 2000.

We offer an ST185 option using the LEM G3 and an AdaptaLink. The plug-in is based on the MR2 Rev1 pinout which is the same as St185. Here is how you can confirm once and for all. Remove your ECU and remove the top cover. Beside each pin on the main header there will be a code eg #10, TACH, AC. Make a pinout of these codes and I can confirm if it matches our ECU pinouts. Alternatively take some good quality macro photo's of the codes and I will have a look.

Check the LEM manual for wiring. As far as factory wiring goes, do a search on the web for information.