ashesman

Knock Count is incremented when the Knock Level goes above the Knock Threshold. Every time Knock Count is incremented, some timing is pulled out. The numbers in your threshold table should increases with both RPM and boost. Engines generate more noise at higher RPM and boost. To setup Knock Control you must setup your threshold table with all the correct numbers. To do this you need to test the car at different load and RPM points and determine the general noise level. Add a bit of margin onto that and enter it in the threshold table...

Yup, thats what I would say. check you have wired your crank and cam sensors with the correct polarity. Make sure that the arming threasholds are not too high. Subaru's seem to have weak sensors that do not produce a lot of amplitude... It is more likely to be sensor polarity. Makes sure you determine sensor polarity scientifically, don't just swap them randomly to see if it fixes it...

Chances are that the last installers pulled the orange wires out as they would have been spare. Swap two of your grey wires to the correct pins for ISC solenoid...

Wire the ISCO and ISCC pins of the ECU main header to your Subaru ISC valve. Then select solenoid as the ISC type in software. Dont worry about the stepper board... If a stepper board was fitted, it suggests that this ECU was not designed for a Subaru (unless it was a V5-6 WRX/STi)... does it have a Subaru triggering sub board fitted?

You can run both at the same time, but there is no point in running a narrow band sensor as well as wideband. A narrow band sensor provides no useful information on actual AFR. It is perfect for detecting the stoich point as that was what they were designed to do. Whatever sensor you use for CLL must be wired to An Volt 1.

How about sending the .pcl file and log so we can work out what is going on... You should be able to run the latest firmware without problem...

I am not sure why you could not get the logging to work...  There is a menu option that permanently disables logging. Turn that option on. Then on any of the number or gauge screens hold down the select button for a few seconds. "Logging..." will come up at the bottom of the screen. Hold down the select button for a few seconds to stop logging. You can select and playback your logs in the logging menu. DisplayLink software is not in field updateable. At this stage there are no firmware updates available. In the future there will be some work done on the DisplayLink to allow it to run at the same time as PCLink, no promises when. All depends on how popular the DisplayLink is. There is no intention to make the gauges configurable at this stage.

People have used LS2 coils, but I think you need to make up special HT leads. You can use normal round can type coils as used on distributed engines. They are quite high energy but big and bulky. I have seen quite a few cases where people have run up to 600hp on four cylinder engines using two dual post coils. Our old Chevette runs about 450hp on a wasted spark. The problem is that direct spark coils are designed to to be mounted on plugs and don't really have the appropriate terminals to connect an HT lead. I dont know of any factory engines that ran direct spark and HT leads...

The only reason I can think of that would cause the old firmware update not to work is that the com port number might be too high. Use the windows device manager to reassign a lower comport number to the ECU and try again. Although I still don't think anything has changed in the firmware updater since then. I would definitely like to see the pcl and log files for this problem as if there is an issue we need to get on top of it. Please note that a lot of other people have upgraded there WRXLink G3 to the latest firmware without issues, so it may just be a tuning problem due to the addition of a new feature... If you send those files through I will have a look and see if I can find a solution. Email [email protected]

If your engine is fitted with a three wire ISC valve, then you should definitely wire both windings to the ECU (Aux 1 and Aux2). You should be able to get full closed loop idle control working that will control engine idle better than any other aftermarket ECU I have seen...

The LEM G3 includes Closed Loop Lambda (CLL) that allows you to continuously correct fueling for economy and emissions while driving using wideband or narrow band sensors. Documentation for all tuning functions is included with the PCLink download. Open a base map up and right click on anything you want help with and select "Whats this". Alternately press F1 to open help. there is about 300 pages of tuning help included with PCLink. wiring and installation manuals can be downloaded from the web site as you came across. Download PCLink for HERE. Without being too hard on the Megasquirt, if you have a good read up on the LEM G3 you will discover the benefits of a professionally designed and supported engine management system.

IAT correction is not 'onboard'. Sorry if I confused you. IAT correction requires the wiring of an IAT sensor (factory fitted on most engines). Then IAT correction can be enabled and used. As with all ECU upgrades, including chips, piggy backs, intercepts and full replacements... They must alll be dyno tuned. If you use a good tuner and an ECU that has working IAT and barometric correction, then there should be no reason to tune on the dyno, then re-tune at the track over and over again... Some people like to continuously fiddle with mixtures and ignition curves, but to be honest once a good tuner has had his way with it you shouldn't need to ever touch it. There will always be some odd adjustments you may want to alter at the track such as boost level or launch control slip, but at least with a fully programmable system you will have that option...

IAT correction is not 'onboard'. Sorry if I confused you. IAT correction requires the wiring of an IAT sensor (factory fitted on most engines). Then IAT correction can be enabled and used. As with all ECU upgrades, including chips, piggy backs, intercepts and full replacements... They must alll be dyno tuned. If you use a good tuner and an ECU that has working IAT and barometric correction, then there should be no reason to tune on the dyno, then re-tune at the track over and over again... Some people like to continuously fiddle with mixtures and ignition curves, but to be honest once a good tuner has had his way with it you shouldn't need to ever touch it. There will always be some odd adjustments you may want to alter at the track such as boost level or launch control slip, but at least with a fully programmable system you will have that option...

Well, I am probably too biased about why you should choose our ECU but... I can guarantee an ECU that will run the engine the engine as well, if not better than other competitors, offers precise 4D tuning of sequential fuel and ignition, blah blah... You have probably read the specs. What the specs don't tell you is the support options. We offer free phone, email, skype chat/phone and forum support. Also note that the knock option is internal to the LinkPlus G3 ECU. You could and should use the KnockBlock as a tuning aid, but the ECU has its knock control circuit internally. It has the ability to pull timing out if required, but like all ECU features must be tuned to suit your engine. Like you said, it is not correct to tune to the point at which det occurs then back it off. The reason for this is that just before det is not necessarily the highest power point. the way to tune is to increase timing until no more power is produced. Any further advance past that point is a waste. On high power turbo engines det will often occur before power stops increasing. At that point it is up to the tuner to use common sense when choosing ignition numbers. One thing I will point out as an advantage of the G3 is on board barometric pressure correction and intake air temperature correction. Those features result in an incredibly stable tune from day to day (and country to country). As far as fuel goes, you should probably have the engine tuned on worst case fuel and then retune once the engine is installed in the car on the fuel it will run, after it is run in. It is my experience that engines tuned, then installed in the car are never exactly right and require a little work...

Try using a Subaru V3-6 coil pack. Or an EVO/VR4 or Galant coil pack. Both options are 4 post wasted spark setups. You will only need one igniter and will free up two ignition channels for other use...

A narrow band scale is not linear, so putting a linear 0-1V may not give the right result. Use a simulated narrow band output...Â

I think you need to get a tuner to look at your car. If you are running out of injector duty cycle then you engine will be going lean!!! It probably isn't the reason your boost is dropping off. That could be a boost control issue or a turbo matching issue. You will obviously need to install bigger injectors ans re-tune your engine. At minimum, put a wideband O2 sensor in and check you mixture at full power in case you are doing damage to your engine. I think bore washing is the least of your worries if you have injectors at 100%. I am not sure why you saw 85% on the ECU and 100% on the Apexi doo dah!!!

Overrun fuel cut is not designed to stop bore washing. It is designed to stop fuel wastage and bad emissions during overrun. The fuel will not wash the bores as the spark is still there, so the fuel gets burnt as normal. If you are worried about some of the inadequacies of the old V4 ECU, perhaps you would consider upgrading to a G3 ECU...

Use a two wire ISC valve as found on some european cars. contact [email protected] to purchase an ISC valve. Contact [email protected] as there may be mods required for your ECU to run ISC control due to its age... If you were to upgrade your ECU to an LEM G3 you would get a huge list of additional features, much better tunability and the ability to run precise closed loop idle speed control using the factory stepper motor...

I'm good... thanks for asking! Password protection is currently being tested in our in house version of PCLink and will be released when we are happy it is all good... It will allow you to lock the ECU.

Contact [email protected] for more help. As far as I know all you need is the ECU and all factory engine components. Dave (who's contact details are somewhere in this forum post) would have a base map that he would probably sell that would get you very close to going...

Dont manually delete any files... Do the following: Unplug the ECU from USB.Re-install PCLink to make sure the drivers are properly installed (if you have deleted anything or tried uninstalling anything.Plug the ECU into USB.Ignore any prompts that appear.Open the device manager (right click my computer->properties->hardware->device manager).Open any devices in the list that have a yellow explanation mark and right click 'update driver'.Follow the prompts. Select no to "alllow connect to internet", select "install driver automatically", then click next, next, finish etc...You may have to do steps 6 and 7 twice for two different devices.When it is all good, you will have an entry in the device manager under "Ports (COM & LPT)" called "Link ECU USB (COM x)". x is the com port assigned to the ECU.Open PCLink. Under options->connection, select auto for com port. Close the options window.Turn the key on to power the ECU.Click the 'L' icon to connect to the ECUSorry if those instructions are a bit rough I wrote them out of my head...

V4 G1 will not run the factory 1UZ-FE ISC valve. TPS will be OK. If the O2 sensor that is in the engine still works (unlikely) then it is compatible...

To be blunt, the problem will be a wiring issue, setup problem or tacho fault. All our plug in ECU's and adapter based plugins, as well as all wire-ins to subaru's that I have done wire the tacho signal directly to an auxiliary output. Wire the factory ECU's tacho signal directly to an auxiliary output.  Configure the auxiliary output as tacho. If it is Aux 1, 2, 3 or 4 then make sure you set the multiplier value to 1 (remember some RPM x 0 = 0 RPM) and duty cycle to about 25%. Just for your info, all LEM Aux, Fuel and Ign outputs switch to ground (not 12v). The tacho signal is about 150 Hz (150 pulses per second) at 4500 RPM, so a relay would not work as it could not switch fast enough. In that case you would use a transister to invert the signal... To test your install, set the auxiliary output to "Test PWM", set the frequency to about 100 Hz and make sure the tacho goes up and down as you vary the frequency... Let me know what the problem was...

Well, first thing to do is roll back the firmware. Second thing to do is send through a copy of the log file so we can have a look and try to come up with some sort of answer. What version of firmware caused the problem? Does the problem go away when you roll back the firmware. I would appreciate a copy of your pcl file and log file to have a look...