Dave Kriedeman

Hi dave32gtr, you will only have the ability to input the injector cc's if you choose MODELLED FUEL EQUATION or MODELLED MULTI FUEL. If you have your FUEL MAIN FUEL EQUATION setup as TRADITTIONAL, you don't have the option to insert the precise injector data. You should try to use the MODELLED fuel equation when being tuned, however the Traditional setting has been left to make for easier starting and tuning. Regards Dave

Hi amvegeta, sorry for the delayed reply , I am a bit under the weather. Please find attached the screen shot of how to set up DUAL FUEL TABLES, DUAL IGNITION TABLES AND DUAL BOOST TABLES. I hope this helps. Regards Dave.

Hi Goran, you state that the trigger 1 wheel at the crank is 36-2 but you have set at 32-2. Trigger 2 is it a single tooth profile on the camshaft or multiple teeth such as 3 or so. Can you please advise. Regards Dave.

Hi JohnRambo, you can always reassign your inputs that are not being used , such as MAF sensor and narrow band sensor,i normally swap the narrow band out for wideband and use it for tuning if the customer doesn't want the wideband permanently. I use MAF for IAT sensor etc. Then switch back to narrow band for CLL. Buying an expansion cable is always a wise choice, you also pick up spare digital inputs. Regards Dave.

Hi muzzytt, that is correct, so if you want the light to come on when the TC is off, you need to do the following. You will require a change over relay, 87 and 87a.(5 pin). Wire the relay as per normal and use your Aux O/P to change the state of the relay pin 85 or 86 doesn't mater unless diode protected. The AUX output will be controlled via the Digital input. Have 12 volts positive going to relay pin 30 via an IGNITION SWITCHED INPUT as well as the relay coil 85 or 86 up to you, have pin 87a connected to the LED positive and the Negative to earth for the LED. Setup like this the LED will be active with the TC off, if you want the LED lit up when TC is on then swap the LED positive to pin 87 on the relay. Special note sorry i forgot to mention is the TC switch must be N/O momentary press switch not toggle on/off. To disable TC the button must be held on for 2 seconds, to reactivate the TC the button needs to be held on for more than 0.2 seconds. Regards Dave.

Hi Havy, well done, great news. Don't forget you also have fuel pump control in Aux outputs under the fuel pump control tab, down the bottom of the list. I do what you do, i am using 3 pumps on a car i am doing at present, primary lift,main pressure and then the third pump i set to come on at 3000 rpm and 150 Kpa. Regards Dave.

Hi Goran, so does this engine run a crank trigger setup and a separate cam sensor. Sorry i have never seen a 3S-GTE in this configuration only distributor series in ST185 GT-4 Celica's Good luck. Regards Dave

Hi jonessw20, You will need to use a Windows base OS to run the PC LINK SOFTWARE. TOSHIBA TABLET WITH G4 RUNNING 003.mp4 I use an 8" Toshiba Tablet with USB to Mini USB adaptor running Windows 8 for this exact purpose, makes for a very nice dash and can also tune from it. If you did run REV app for example on an iPAD, you will still need to terminate to the CAN HI and LO. Regards Dave.

Hi Ducie 54, I have setup the fuel pump speed control via PWM as I believe it may have been done by others. Please find attached below. NOTE, ANYONE WISHING TO DO THIS SETUP MUST USE A SOLID STATE RELAY FOR CONTROL, NOT A NORMAL RELAY. Note the values used in this PWM table are just examples, setup your axis as you wish and populate the table. Don't forget i series and G4+ Owners also now have the new Fuel Pump control options under Aux Outputs down the bottom of the list named FUEL PUMP CONTROL, in 5.4.3 firmware. Regards Dave. Dave.

Hi Ducie54, That's because you got to many things going on that little beast of yours ha ha. Noted for LINK techs. Regards Dave

Hi Havy, you could use the base map settings for the plug and play, simply make both your MAP and the base file MAP fuel and ignition tables have the same X and Y axis settings, and then copy and paste the fuel and ignition tables from the demo file to your MAP. You will just have to setup all of your Analogue volt and temp inputs, digital inputs etc how you have wired them on your ecu and ignore the plugins settings. You will still require a timing light and a WIDEBAND AFR meter to get the engine running well, a timing light at least. Regards Dave.

Hi Goran, is the ignition system wired as wasted spark, COP. What model 3S-GTE I have only seen them with distributors and HT leads. Find attached all the settings for an ST185 which ran the 3S-GTE Regards Dave.

Hi amvegteta, can you please be more specific regarding your two maps, do you wish to run two different fuel mixes or boost low and boost high,high /low octane fuel or ??????? This is not a problem however we need to know exactly what you wish to do. Regards Dave.

Hi, the plug in V SERIES are the same, you require the I SERIES as it has the bigger processor etc to cope with all of the the new functions. So I SERIES or G4+ SERIES HAVE OBD2. Regards Dave.

Hi, please find attached the dwell table from the EVO 1 - 3 Base file supplied in the software you are using. Regards Dave.

Simon, get back to bed, your too sick to be on here Regards Dave.

Hi Richard, Sorry, Simon is away for the week. He will be able to help you with this request, they will be hiding somewhere, There is still a few little items left to complete the new FORUMS. Regards Dave.

Hi Jonnyt80, Can you please post your PCL file so we can have a look. Trigger 2 is not correct. Even though you get YES, YES TRIG 1 and 2 and RPM, Trigger 2 has a very strange wave form for a mag reluctor, it appears as though it is trying to send out a digital square wave on AC SINE. Regards Dave.

Hi, standard replacement would be HIGH IMPEDENCE, leave the scaling adjust the Master trim . Really you need a wideband to be connected to correct the AFR to make safe to drive. Regards Dave.

Hi muzzytt, do you have an auxillary output setup to control the clutched throttle. Regards Dave.

Hi jonnyt80, Do you get an rpm value when cranking under runtime values. It is in the left lane number one position and your trigger 1 and 2 are in the middle column. You should see an RPM of roughly 180 - 250 rpm or similar. Regards Dave.

Hi muzzytt, yes you can use that switch, just remember the AUX output will switch low, negative so the positive needs to be connected to a 12 volt ignition fed source. If the dash light is negatively switched then yes you can wire directly to that with the AUX O/P. If any of these devices need power then use the AUX O/P to switch a relay to supply 12 volts. If you set the Aux O/P as GP PWM you can also create a table with PWM values and create a FLASHING LED at varying frequencies, i do this with my SHIFT LIGHT SETUPS NORMALLY. Regards Dave.

Hi , trigger 2 signal or sync does appear to be down on voltage at 0.33 volts AC , but a slow cranking engine or excessive air gap will create that on a sine wave or AC generated signal. You would have to lower your trigger 2 arming voltage very low and have the filters on 1 or off to read a higher voltage, however this would lead to possible bad signals once the engine fires and the rpm increases. Please recharge your battery and check you have good earths and carry out another scope capture. The initial falling edge of trigger 2 is clean but the rising edge is very strange with steps etc. Regards Dave.

Hi muzzytt, Yes sure you can send it to me, it wont take to long to sort i have a test i88 and simulator here. I don't know how soon i will do this within this week any way. Have you looked at the HELP file from the current 5.4.3 software on these setups as there is from memory a lot more info on setting them up, compared to the old file. Business address is 10 Marsh Street, Earlville, Cairns, 4870 QLD, Contact is 0475 388 462. Business name is PRO TUNING Regards Dave.

Hi muzzytt, feeling your pain and frustration, it is not uncommon for the TPS or FPS subs to read 100% on cal and then read 65% or so as the SUB should never actually read 100%. The thing that has me stumped is the fact that your photos appear to give the impression that the SUB and MAINS are wired incorrectly. When the DBW is active is the blade direction correct. I have seen a few people setup DBW and the positive and negative motor wires are reverse polarity and tis gives the same result as back to front wiring as the blade moves in the opposite direction giving the same illusion that the wiring is not correct as the blade moves open when closing and closes when opening. Just throwing ideas around, I watched your video, it shows the laptop but would be good to see the DBW blade movements at the same time as the calibration is happening. Regards Dave. I am at a loss for you sorry.