Dave Kriedeman

What version software are you using, is it 4.9.3 Driver type is directly below polarity, then below that is prime time.

Hi Rune, Under Trig 2 you have an offset of 650.0 ATDC, how did you achieve this number as the file i sent you is set to 170 deg ATDC. Have you checked the Runtime Data for the VVTi and Triggers 1 and 2 in the Runtime Values Tab, selected through the TUNING TAB at the top right of your screen, to make sure there are no errors and the signals make sense. What settings do you have for the VVT Setup Tab. What settings do you have for Trigger 2, you have only listed Trigger 1 Settings.

Can you explain exactly how you have wired the fuel pumps. Also under your AUX 2 tab, that you control the fuel pumps with, what is the polarity and driver type set to.

Hi RUNE, What do you wish to know. Dave.

Hi there, can you post an email address, so i can forward a Base Map to you. I dont have a V44 base map only V88, but it wont take much effort to convert to V44. Regards Dave

Hi Rune, 2 JZ GTE VVTi File emailed to you. Regards Dave.

There is a member on this forum, his log in is gti, he may be able to help with a base map. Try to PM him with your request. Otherwise let me know if you have no luck.

Just want to check, your posted topic refers to a K20 ITB, but at the end of your post it states that it is a K24. What year is the engine. Do the K20 and K24 share the same sensors.

What operating system are you using on your computer, is it Windows 7

Be careful when adjusting the PID parameters, you nneed to make very small changes to the values. I used to get impatiant when adjusting PID's and make large changes to the values. Only to discover i was creating more issues, when doing so. A work around for your idle problem, is to disable the ISC and use your DBW Target table to control your idle. I had a similar idle issue with a twin throttle blade DBW setup on an engine with aggressive camshafts. I managed to get the idle spot on with a combination of the DBW Target table and the Idle Ignition Timing values. However to have success here the DBW must be functioning correctly. Maybe post up your settings for the DBW so we can have a look for anything unusual.

No problems, We all just wish to give the correct information. Thanks for the reply.

Purely a suggestion, When you post a question from now on, How about adding all the details in the original post. Twice i have responded to different posted questions buy you, You then procede to reply and include the extra detail required for you to seek the correct answers. We are all here to help each other. Responding to your requests is made far easier if you give ALL the details. I believe both Simon and myself have answered your question correctly, considering what is in your original post. There was no mention of cost etc, until now. Take no offence to this, I am just trying to point something out. Responding with DUH, wasn't required,we answered the question with what information you gave us.

What do you need to connect the CAN to. I just use another ViPEC PC cable, cut he USB end off. If you need to connect to a serial type port, then the connector required is a DB9.

When i setup DBW, I disconnect or turn off the power to the DBW motor. I then hit the OPTION Tab at the top of the screen and do a TPS CALIBRATION manually. Fully closed and WOT position. Reconnect or turn on the power to the DBW Carry out the DBW calibration setup, Remembering to push the throttle blade closed when it does the closed setting.

When you calibrated the TPS, did you physically push the throttle blade fully closed and set that as your closed value. Most DBW throttle blades will set in a slightly open position. Which isnt really the closed value or position. Try doing the DBW setup and physically close the throttle blade all the way with your finger. Be VERY CAREFUL when the throttle blade opens,these things can do horrible things to fingers.

I would be interested in the end results, thanks for offering to share.

Go to the Boost Control Tab, Select, Multiple Tables Tab, Select tables as 2 Below that is the Input to activate, select the Digital Input that you have wired your switch to.

Hi Stu, ON LEVEL - LOW ACTIVE EDGE - FALLING

Hi Stu, yes, set the pull-up to ON. When you have finalised the setup, go to the Tuning tab, Select Runtime Values, Select the Digital Inputs Tab and toggle your switch On and Off, this will show active when ON. This will confirm you have it setup correctly. Look at you boost tables, with the switch off Boost Table 1 will say Active and Boost Table 2 will say Inactive. Turn your switch On and boost table 1 will become inactive, Boost table 2 Active.

Thats great news, well done.

NORMALLY, when using Hall Effect type sensors the RISING (POSITIVE) EDGE is used for the triggering edge. The sensor produces a positive voltage when the vane is in the sensor and 0 volts when the vane is away from the sensor. Some FORD engines use the NEGATIVE edge of the Hall Effect input as the trigger. I can understand what you are saying in regards to the 4 sensors having the same part number, so theoretically they should all use the same trigger edge. Once again this is something that cant really be taken for granted. We need to confirm these setting with the ViPEC Engineers.

Unfortunately that is a very basic wave form to work with. It would be good if the diagram was referenced to crankshaft degrees and we could see exactly the degree refrencing of the camshaft teeth edges in relation to TDC etc. You can see the TDC tooth signal in the top line Ne Signal (Crank Trigger), but it is anyones guess what the VV1 and VV2 edges are in relationship to it. VV1 and VV2 have different edge timing events but are both Positive Edge Triggered.

Setup the Aux output that your fan is running from as a General Purpose Output. Use any combination of 3 variable switched inputs as Switching Conditions EG Switch Condition 1 = SPEED less than 100 km/hr Switch Condition 2 = ECT greater than 90 deg. celcius Switch Condition 3 = RPM less than 3000. Obviously you require a SPEED Input to the ECU, through a Digital Input. So that Digital Input needs to be selected for the switching of the Speed Condition. NOTE: Properly setup Injector Deadtimes SHOULD rectify the effects of voltage changes to your injectors, keeping them operating (responding) properly regardless of voltage changes. Do you have your Ignition fed power to your coils on there own relay source. I always run a seperate relay to supply power to my Ignition coils, bypassing all other vehicle looms and accessories.

I did notice the target values for the inlet and exhaust cams dont make sense compared to your target table. This i cant give you an answer for, strange. Maybe one of the ViPEC engineers can help out with that issue. In overview of the Trigger errors etc, It is obvious something is not happy. There is obviously something not quite correct in your software setup for the triggers/inputs or the way that the sensors/inputs are physically terminated. This is proven by the fact that if you disable the VVT setup, you no longer get trigger errors. I would try setting the software parameters as suggested, in regards to trigger edges FALLING, PULLUPS ON, etc. EG: TRIGGER 2, having a rising edge and the PULLUP on will obviously alter the value the ECU is calibrating from. See if there is any change to the Trigger Errors, EG getting less errors,more errors or different errors. Have you tried to leave the VVT active and set the target tables to flat 0 everywhere and monitor if the values for the inlet and exhaust cams stay at 0 or they actually show the offset we are seeing in the datalogs. This is a fairly complex set of circumstances. However these types of problems can be sorted, the secret is to target one specific area of the potential problem and attack it from every angle, before moving to the next phase of diagnosis. EG: Target the software settings first, Double check your settings as i am sure you have done, try as i have suggested and set the trigger edges and pullups as they should be set. After making the relavent changes and you see no change in behaviour of the trigger errors etc, then move to the next phase of the diagnosis, The PHYSICAL setup, how the sensors are terminated. You mentioned you are sharing the Trigger 2 signal, have you checked that both inputs see the same exact voltage. If you leave one of the shared inputs disconnected and measure the voltage, connect the second input up and see if the behaviour of the voltage changes. I am sure you have done most of these things. However if you are like me and get to the point of being stressed over trying to resolve an issue, i tend to start to short track things and sometimes take software settings and physiacl setups for granted and overlook the basics, which normally is where the issue is found. It would be handy if we could find someone who has setup a ViPEC on this same engine to find out how they went with there setup. Anyway i will continue to help out where i can

Good luck with your project. I have installed a V88 on a BA XR6T, with full Atomic setup. I am also controlling the factory DBW with the V88. I have done a street tune on it and will be tuning it on the dyno this weekend. Aiming for around 800 HP at the wheels for now, final target will be around 1000 at the wheels on race gas.