Dave Kriedeman

Hi mate, sorry i have been working away,out of town. I had another look at your tune file the other day, I noticed under Digital Inputs 1 through to 4 are selected as your camshaft position sensors. Digital Input 1 Inlet LH CAM, You have Pullup Resistor set to OFF, Active Edge FALLING. Digital Inputs 2,3 and 4 seem correct, with Pullup Resistor ON and ACTIVE EDGE FALLING. Also Under Triggers, i noticed TRIGGER 2 VVTi you have Selected OFF, Should this not be set to Cam Type = INLET LH Offset = 230. Also Trigger 2 you have set as Trigger 2 Edge = RISING But you also have PULLUP = ON. It appears the RISING EDGE is CORRECT, however PULLUP should be OFF, for a RISING EDGE I am unfamiliar with this engine. Does it have a timing belt or chain setup. Is the static valve timing correct, I am talking mechanically here, ALL TIMING MARKS CORRECT in relation to camshafts and crankshaft. Does the timing belt or chain have any slack in it, worn guide components or tensioner etc. I would try changing the above values i have suggested and probably check the Physical valve timing for issues as mentioned above if the problems still exist.

Just curious, Why do you have your E-Throttle Target Table 1 setup that way.

I will have a look through and see if i can find anything. Have you disconnected the VVT System. I see that it is partially setup in the software, under RUNTIME VALUES LIST VVT you have multiple VVT Trigger Errors. I have also noticed in IAT FUEL CORRECTIONS, IAT Temps above 30 deg, you are removing 3 to 4.5 % of fuel. Have you tuned this engine with IAT and ECT Trims turned ON or OFF. Try lowering the Trigger 1 Arming voltage at the 3000 rpm point, it is set to 3 at 3000 rpm and 2.5 at 2000 rpm, Your issue is at 2500-2600 rpm roughly looking at your screen shot and at that RPM your trigger 1 arming voltage is 2.6. Drop the 3000 setting to 2.5, Turn off IAT FUEL CORRECTION and see if the issue is the same.

Firstly, Does your boost control work if using OPEN LOOP Control. Forget about CLOSED LOOP for a minute. You need to establish that your OPEN LOOP works before stepping into Closed Loop. Also, you mention you are using RPM on your X axis, what do you have on your Y axis.

Looking at your first screen shot (trigger error log), the parameter list shows that the REV LIMITER is ACTIVE Look at the Injector duty cycle and actual pulse width, they both have values.. Injector Duty is around 23% Injector Pulse Width is around 11 mS Fuel cut is on 100% However the REV LIMITER is ACTIVE. Are you using fuel cut for Rev limiting, What are your settings under the LIMITER TABS.

I dont know why but in the log i can only see RPM,MAP and TPS under LOGGER 1, Logger 2 has scatter plots and histograms. Logger 1 doesnt appear to have Wideband or Target table selected in the parameters list. However after i downloaded the log, i was prompted with an error telling me the file was not available to me. Refering to your round 2 log.

I have looked at the log, however there doesnt appear to have AFR in there to reference the data against. Does the engine, lean pop or sneeze out the intake when you hit the throttle. Looking at the MAP trace the MAP Kpa doesnt really indicate that it is lean popping out the intake, 80 Kpa is probably about normal considering you have given the throttle a quick hit. The reason i ask about the lean backfire out the intake is that this can cause a trigger error, the engine tends to kick backwards slightly and generate a signal out of sequence or partial retrigger of the sensor. If you trim in some accelerator enrichment, do you see any changes.

The Ignition delay under the timing calibration tab will not normally cause trigger errors or cause your symptoms,unless the timing is drifting a substantial amount from commanded value when the engine is revved. The trigger arming voltage at that given rpm point may cause these issues and also the sensor air gap can be a culprit at times. Try logging the Trigger 1 voltage agaqinst RPM to look for voltage changes as the rpm is increased, however a magnetic reluctor normally generates more voltage the higher the RPM. Does this issue only occur at the same engine speed or does it happen at other speeds when tipping in on the throttle. Looking at your Air Fuel ratio in the log, it is showing a rapid lean off in relation to TPS and MAP, finally topping out at 22:1. Does the engine misfire at all. Trying to establish if the lean out is misfiring, causing the lean reading or the A/F ratio is to lean.

If you open the Runtime Value list and look at triggers, check trigger 1 and 2 arming voltages and see if they are producing voltages that reflect what you have set in your trigger arming voltages table. As Simon suggested earlier, is the POLARITY of the crank and cam sensors correct, do you have an oscilloscope to confirm they are producing + voltages. Have you tried using the Trigger Scope function in the software to look at the signals.

Is your sensor the same as the one in the link you have supplied in the earlier post. If it has 2 terminals, 1 terminal will go to your input you have selected as oil pressure. The second terminal needs to go to sensor ground. If it has 3 terminals, One terminal will NORMALLY be 5 volt ref and you will have the analogue input and sensor ground. Not sure if this is the information you where asking for.

Reread my previous post, i have added more info while you were typing your above reply. As for the equivalant sparkplug in resistored form, your parts shop should have a cross reference guide in there sparkplug catalogue. Checking your file after doing a firmware update, i am referring more to the configuration side of things, cam and crank sensors,trigger edges etc,etc,etc. I check all of these things and then finally have a look at my fuel and ignition tables. NORMALLY these values dont change, but i just give them a quick once over.

Sometimes it is advisable to run resistor plugs to help with noise in the comms, which can lead to the comms link between the ECU and laptop to drop off line. This only happens when the engine is running obviously. If you have run these same plugs previously without issues, i would doubt that this would be your problem. But none the less, try and source a set of equivalant plugs to what you have but in resistored type and try them, see if the issue is corrected or changes in anyway. If it fixes the issue, tune with the resistored plugs and then refit your non resistored plugs after tuning is complete. NOTE, After doing a FIRMWARE UPGRADE it is ALWAYS advisable to recheck all of your settings in your MAP (TUNE FILE). Alot of data gets transferred and manipulated during the process, selected items can change SOMETIMES. I use Windows 7 - 32 bit without issues. However, when i first setup my new laptop i was getting similar issues as you have. I found the USB port had a power saving mode applied to it. After disabling it, i never had anymore issue. I connect to many ViPEC ECU's and do lots of Firmware updates without problems.

It appears the stated resistance values are relavent to that particular pressure sensor. You need to find the values for your sensor. Try to get the values in OHMS then you need to select Cal 1, 2 or 3 to create a calibration for it. Another way of testing if you cant get the relative info, you need a multimeter and an air compressor with adjustable regulator a piece of fuel hose, 2 hose clamps and an air gun/nozzle. Fit the piece of hose to the pressure end of the sender (end with the oil hole) tighten with a hose clamp,fit the air nozzle into the opposite end of the hose and secure with a clamp. Measure the resistance of the sender unit with no pressure applied. This value will obviously represent 0 psi/Kpa. Set regulator on the compressor to 10 psi,apply the 10 psi of air pressure to the sender and measure the resistance (ohms), record the value, this will be used for the 10 psi in your Calibration table. Procede with the above all the way to the maximum that you wish to read, EG: 120 psi Or scale it all the way to the maximum value for that sender )preferred).

OK, so once you have fixed your physical oil pressure problem, Run the engine and check your oil pressure. If the pressure is still registering incorrectly, then, Can you do a search of your sensor and get the scaling values required to setup your Calibration. Can you direct me to Ray's post regarding the pressure sensor and the settings that you mention in your first post, so i can read it and determine what it refers too. Another option is to fit an OIL PRESSURE sender that has known values and is in the default setup of the CAL. OR, As mentioned above fit a mechanical pressure guage "T'd" off with the electronic sensor, Run the engine and cross reference the oil pressure from the mechanical guage and see waht voltage the electronic sensor is generating under the runtimes value list, create your own Cal.

All requests have been replied too, via PM.

Well done on the Fix. Good to hear you have resolved your issue.

I have seen that same strange error a couple of years ago. Firstly, the CANT CONNECT ISSUE, Can you confirm the ViPEC USB lead is being recognised by your laptop under hardware properties. Confirm it's USB PORT number setting. Confirm you are using that USB Port number in VTS. Also make sure that you have the USB lead pluged into the correct port on the ECU, I have seen this before. Secondly, the strange error message, I think from memory i would get that error message if, I created a tune file on new version software. I then swapped back to earlier version software and tried to open a tune file that was created on a newer version software. Check that your MAP/FILE is stored in the VTS FOLDER, MAPS.

If you command 10 degrees in the lock timing feature, you are looking for 10 degrees. The timing light should be set to 0. If you have the timing light set to +10 degrees and you are seeing 10 degrees, then really your timing is 0 (TDC). By adjusting the timing light you are electronically changing the strobe light reaction. I suggest that you also remove your sparkplugs and clean them. They may have heavy carbon fouling on them by now or even wet raw fuel. Wet or fouled plugs coupled with 10 degree retarded timing will definately add to your starting issues. Set timing light to 0. Adjust your offset in the software until the timing light indicates 10 degrees. Remove, clean or replace with new, the sparkplugs. Crank the engine with the injectors turned off or disconnected. Confirm the the timing is 10 degrees with timing light set at 0. Adjust your MASTER FUEL NUMBER TO SAY 4 or 5. Make your fuel trim % = 0. Crank the engine, trim fuel in small % and dont be afraid to use VERY SMALL CONSTANT THROTTLE OPENING. Open the throttle slightly and hold at a constant position (EG 3 - 5 %) while cranking. Adjust the trim to add or subract fuel while cranking. It is better to start at small values and work your way up as this has less tendancy to want to wet or foul the plugs. Once you have the engine running, recheck your timing using the same procedure you have been using.

Just reading your first post, After initialising 4.9.3 software. Did you also do a FIRMWARE UPDATE from within 4.9.3.

Can you connect to the ECU when you open VTS. What version software/firmware are you trying to load. Most importantly, does your car have good battery voltage.

The way you have explained setting the offset to set the timing is correct. One thing i need to ask however, In your discription you mention you select 10 degrees and that your "TIMING LIGHT IS ALSO SET TO 10 DEGREES". Are you using a dial back (adjustable) timing light, if so MAKE SURE IT IS SET TO 0. If you are commanding 10 degrees, you want to see 10 degrees, without any other influences. EG; Adjustable timing light. Just wanted to clarify.

Hi Glenn, 2JZ GTE VVTi file email sent to you. Regards Dave

OK, tacho is out of range all of the time. I have never done a Mini and i am not familiar with their setup. Does the engine use hall effect or magnetic reluctor crank trigger.

Is the tacho reading correctly on your laptop and in the dash when Launch control is not active.

The second output giving a voltage output from high to low (4,5 volts down to 0 volts as throttle is opened) indicates to me that this TPS is probably one used on a DBW setup. NOTE WELL**** some DBW TPS sensors will max out their voltage sweep at around 80% throttle, they will still travel past this point but not generate any further voltage climb (resistance change). You need to do a couple of things first. Confirm that the TPS scale doesnt stop at 80%. When watching the Analogue window for TPS make sure the voltage or % keeps increasing above 80 %. If it doesnt, replace the TPS with a full linear type switch. If it does have full scale try the following,,, Make sure the throttle blade air gap is sufficient enough for the engine to idle without any influence from any type of idle control (Idle Speed Solenoids and valves etc). Make sure your throttle cable is set correctly and it is not to tight stopping the the throttle from closing correctly and making sure you get WOT. Adjust the TPS sensor so that it reads between 0.5 and 0.9 volts. Aim for 0.55 - 0.75 volts, ignition on / engine not running. Carry out a TPS calibration. Go to TUNING tab, select RUNTIME VALUES, Select Analogue Tab With the ignition on /engine not running, Press the accelerator pedal slowly open all the way to WOT. Firstly watch the TPS voltage climbs nicely in voltage as the throttle is opened, if all OK Release the throttle and do the same but this time check the throttle % has a smooth transission from 0% to 100%. You are doing this to check the TPS generates a healthy signal and that it is seeing a full transition, making sure the potentiometer in the TPS has a good sweep track and contact, No jumps in voltage or loss of voltage during operation. Next drive the car and see if the fault is still evident. If the fault is still there, I suggest you look at the A/F ratio at that point Also look at the timing parameters at the given problem area and then finally your Accelerator enrichment settings. Let us know if there is any change to your issue after carrying out the above.