Dave Kriedeman

Hi, I use Honeywell sensors. Regards Dave.

Hi, i have sent you an email with a base map i just created for you to try. Regards Dave.

Hi there, PM me your email address and i will send you a base map to start you off. Regards Dave.

You setup a digital input as Start Position, You setup an Aux. Output as Start Solenoid. If the engine speed is less than 1400 RPM and the digital input is activated (must be held on) the starter solenoid is activated via the aux o/p. The aux o/p (starter solenoid) will remain active if the DI is held on, until the engine reaches 1400 rpm or greater, then the aux will automatically switch off. The idea is to press and hold the DI until the engine starts, release the DI when the engine has fired. Press the button again and all FUEL and SPARK will be cut. For the ENGINE stop feature to function the RPM must also be greater than 1400 rpm. This feature was a setup for jetski's etc i believe. I asked ViPEC about adding adjustable parameters to the software in future versions to be able to adjust the cranking times,triggering rpms,cut off rpms etc. These settings would allow one press of the start DI and release the engine automatically cranks for the pre-determined time you select. If the engine doesnt start within the time you select, the aux o/p start solenoid deactivates. While cranking the ecu looks for a pre determined disengage rpm that you set EG:500 rpm, Once the rpm is seen the aux o/p shuts off and the engine runs as normal. Having an adjustable engine cut rpm would allow you to press the start DI again and if the stop rpm target is correct EG 800 rpm the kill function would trigger shutting the engine down. Having these settings would eliminate the default non adjustable <1400 rpm start and >1400 rpm cut parameters. This function MAY be added in the future. Simon advised that my idea could be achieved using Virtual Auxillary,Timers,Digital Input and GP AUX, which definately sounds achievable. I haven't as yet set it up and tried it. Regards Dave.

Hi all, Make sure you read all of the release notes to get a full understanding of all of the upgrades. There are also quite a few NEW FEATURES added in non released 4.9.4 and 4.9.6 that carry through to 4.9.7. EG : Single DI Engine Start/Stop feature and starter relay control. New trigger decodings,new Check Engine Light Modes, New Sensor calibrations for ECT,IAT and EGT, just to mention a few. The new software also has many Default Base Maps supplied. Regards Dave.

Hi all, New VTS 4.9.7 software is on the ViPEC web page for downloading. When ever i download new software i always create a new folder within the ViPEC main folder. I save all of my tuning software directly to my hard drive of my laptop (C Drive). Go to where ever you have saved your VTS (ViPEC) software, C Drive, My Documents etc,etc. Double click the VTS (ViPEC) folder. With the folder open, right click and create a new folder, Name it ViPEC or VTS 4.9.7 for example. Go to the ViPEC web site, download the software, Once it is downloaded, run the install, You will be prompted for the software to be saved to your ViPEC or VTS Folder, click on the BROWSE tab on the right, search for the new folder you have created, double click on the new folder. The new folders name will now be in the save to window, hit install. All the new software etc will now be saved to that folder. After the software has been installed and you have also installed the USB drivers, you will be prompted with an install complete message, click finish. You should now have a new ICON on your desktop, right click it and select rename, Rename the icon to VTS or ViPEC 4.9.7. By doing this you will retain your previous software, most of you will be running 4.9.3. on your desktop and also the new 4.9.7. Once again you do not have to do any of this,if you dont wish to. It is something i do and have always done. Regards Dave.

I've got a Knock Link myself, however i havent had a chance to set it up and use it as yet.

Hi Michael, Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â I am not sure if the Knock Link can function correctly with a single wire knock sensor. The use of a Bosch Do-nut style knock sensor is the recommended sensor for this unit. Connecting the sensor ground to earth may create issues also, earth looping, however i do not know the circuitry of this unit so earth looping may not cause any issue. Regards Dave.

What PID values are you using. I have never had a problem like you are experiencing. If it has a heavier spring, you may have to use higher Proportional and Integeral values. Only make small changes to these values. Write down your original values, that way if you have no luck you can revert back to your original settings. Before you change your PID values, do the following,,,,,, Carry out a Manual TPS callibration first. Disconnect the DBW motor or turn it off in the software, Select TPS setup, under the options tab at the top left of the VTS page next to file. When the tab appears for wide open throttle, with your fingers move the throttle blade to WOT position. Click on the tab to achnowlege WOT position, a tab will appear insructing for closed throttle, Push the throttle blade fully closed, all the way to the throttle stop, click on the tab to achnowlege closed throttle. Press F4 save to ECU, F2 save pcl file. Reactivate your DBW motor. Put the DBW into calibration mode, recalibrate, check for end result. Regards Dave.

Hi, do you get any errors, when this happens. Regards Dave.

Hi there, Timers 1 and 2 can be found under the Auxillary Outputs tab. When you open that tab they are at the bottom of the list below Virtual Auxillaries 1,2 and 3. Regards Dave.

JCE your relay schematics are spot on. Regards Dave.

You can try changing the filter level and test it. Just be aware that if you do change your trigger disc to the one you have shown, that your trigger mode setup will require changing, NISSAN OPTO 360 will no longer work, the decoding will be different. Have you tried turning Low Resolution Mode on and checking the signal. I would wait until you get the car back and recheck with the new timing belt, is he changing the tensioner bearing also. Make sure the belt is tensioned correctly, too loose or too tight can cause belt deflection (harmonics). I would also log Ignition Angle 1 and Injection angle and see if there is any effect on these parameters when the rpm signal is noisey. Make sure that your CAS wiring is well clear of ignition coils etc. Regards Dave.

I would apply 12 v positive to all of your relays pin 30 via a fused connection to the battery or common positive rail (bus bar) or insulated terminal post. If you use Bosch 5 pin relays which are not change over style, eg: have 2 pin 87's not 87 and 87a This would simplify your relay assembally wiring. Connecting your 2 pin 85 's for the purge relay and fuel pump relay directly to the main relay pin 87's Regards Dave.

Hi, i am about to set one up also with a V88 on a heavily modified 2 stroke V6 outboard engine. Very handy little display. Regards Dave.

I agree, there certainly has been some work go into this. Well done. Dave.

Hi Artie, yeah Widows 8 is definately different. I don't like it.

It depends on how you wire your Auxillary relay, Make sure the power source to pin 86 (or 85 depends how you terminate it) on your relay turns off when the ignition is turned off. If pin 86 stays live with the ignition off, it can create back feeding. ANY auxillary controlled via a relay must have pin 86 setup this way. There is also further instructions in the HELP FILE. I have seen relays setup with Pin 30 (battery power) looped over to pin 86, this method will create back feeding as pin 86 always stays live. Regards Dave.

Hi BMW2002, As for an update on Traction Control, i am unsure of where it is at. Simon will be back next week, so he may have an update. The new Firmware/Software is still in dealer testing stage. ViPEC are on their Christmas/New Year break, so as for a release date, I am unsure. Public release will be dependant on the dealers feed back, as to whether or not there are any issues with it. I have been testing with it and so far i am happy with the results. ViPEC rely on our feed back to insure what is released to the public is fully functional, if there are any issues they can then rectify them before release. Regards Dave.

Cool, good luck with the dyno. Regards Dave.

Hi Marcel, you can use the same DI if you wish. If you use the brake switch input and set it up as momentry it will only activate while depressed. Something i have never tested is, if you setup the switch as toggle,,,, theoretically does this become an ON/OFF input with each activation of the input. EG: depress pedal, output is activated and held ON, depress the pedal again, output is deactivated. I will have to do a test when i get some time. I would also recommend fitting a Line Lock status LED to your car that illuminates when the function is active, cheap and effective, for peace of mind. Regards Dave.

Hi Grant, If you are referring to the expansion loom, then here you go. Green - Sensor ground Red - 5 Volt Grey - DI 5 Brown - DI 6 White - An. Volt 8 Blue - An. Volt 2 Yellow - Temp 3 Orange -Temp 4 I also use An. Volt 2 (BLUE) for wideband. Are you doing a GTR, they have 2 knock sensors. GTSt's normally only have 1 knock sensor. You could also use An. Volt 6 (OXY. front sensor) if not required. I dont use this input for CLC. If it is a GTR, and you are not using the MAF sensors then you could use An. Volts 4 and 5. Hope this is of some help. Regards Dave.

Hi Grant, i am also waiting on some setup info on the Knock settings (gain,frequency etc) for the V88 top board PNP to suit GTS/GTR. Do you have an expansion connector to plug into the unit. This will give you Analogue volt 2 and 8, which can be setup as Knock 0-5 volt input. Regards Dave.

Hi Marcel, using a GP output as you have described will work, you will only required 1 relay to achieve this. As for your speed input, this will be dependant on where the signal comes from. If your speed input is generated via a gearbox mounted VSS or rear wheel speed sensor, this could be a problem if you wish to use the Line Lock for pre stage burnouts. If you are using a front ABS sensor then this shouldn't be an issue, Unless of course you lift the front wheels I would use the brake switch input as 1 variable, as you would normally have your foot on the brake to engage the front wheels brakes. Then a VSS input front ABS sensor on front wheels. Add an RPM activation input also if you wish. With all variables active the switching to your line lock relay will be active. Once any of the input variables deviate from their active points the relay active output will be deactivated.

Hi Jean, i was going to mention about the current Dealer Test Software and DBW, however i wasn't sure if i should. All good. Regards Dave.