Dave Kriedeman

Hi, the wiring connectors, pinouts etc are exactly the same between V series and I series. Regards Dave.

Hi Damien, not a problem, anytime. Regards Dave.

HI, I have just had another look at both your files and realise that your ECU is a V44 topboard PNP. Is this correct. If so I need to change my advice I have given you, sorry. :oops: Analogue volt 5 is PWR STEERING switch on a PNP V44. When I read your first post it stated ViPEC V44 so I assumed it was a V44 standalone. Please confirm. Regards Dave.

Hi Damien, yes the GM MAP sensor will work. The IAT should work also. Under the ANALOGUE Temp and Volt inputs, you have 6 calibration tables, where you can setup different sensors. Cal 1,2 and 3 have a more comprehensive setup and CAL4,5 and 6 are a more basic setup. If you know the values of the sensor you can create your on calibrations. EG: measure the resistance of the sensor at room temp and at 100 deg celcius etc, add those temps and resistance values to the table you create. I have used the GM MAP sensors with V88' s on quite a few installs. Regards Dave.

Hi, the AIT sensor sounds like an Autronic sensor, however from memory (which I wouldn't trust) some of the early ViPEC IAT sensors looked the same, however where either positive temp co-efficient or negative temp co-efficient. I can't really remember. Regards Dave.

Hi, I am not sure what the ECU would do with Analogue volt 5 set as Pwr steer switch, however I would advise against it and switch it off. I do have an engine simulator for testing, however I only have a V88 at present, not a V44 to load your pcl file into and test the effects of this. Why are you using a 5 bar MAP sensor, are you planning on running huge boost. I personally would check that the internal map sensor hose is plumbed correctly to the engine, Turn off the 5 bar map sensor (Analogue volt 2) and set Analogue volt 5 to MAP SENSOR 2.5 BAR if early model V44 or 4 BAR if current model V44 (with blue LED indicator). Go to the OPTIONS tab in VTS and do a MAP SENSOR calibration. Press F4 and save to the ECU. Then press F2 and save the PCL file as TEST MAP SENSOR CHANGE, that way you still have your original PCL file. I would also strongly recommend that you download the current VTS software ver 4.9.8 and do a firmware upgrade on your ECU. Going by your PCL file the ECU is running 4.3.4 firmware, very old. Also looking at your ECU serial number, your V44 is an early version which should have the 2.5 bar internal map sensor. Let me know how you go. Regards Dave.

Hi Damien, no problem. The MoTeC PLM should work fine. Does the IAT sensor you were sent have 2 wires with a white 2 pin connect on it with an exposed thermistor on the end of the sensor. Or does the sensor have a housing around the thermistor with a black 2 pin connector attached to the actual sensor with no wires. Regards Dave.

Hi Damien, I use my trusty Autronic wideband meter. However I believe many have had success with the NGK AFX and some seem to like the Innovate products. At the end of the day, if you are using the meter for an income and or doing lots of tuning, my advise is to use the best meter you can afford. An isolated earth is always desirable to stop ground looping. As for the IAT sensor, I have never bothered to check the specs on the sensor as far as ohms versus temp for scaling. What does your sensor look like. Regards Dave.

Hi, in the V44 Analogue volt 5 is the internal MAP sensor, you have assigned this pin as a Pwr Steering switch ?? If you are using an external MAP sensor you need to set Analogue volt 5 to OFF. Regards Dave.

Hi, ViPEC themselves will not be doing trade-in deals, they are manufacturers and can not on sell second hand units. Your dealer however, may know someone who is after a second hand unit. Regards Dave.

Hi, can you please upload your pcl file. I would like to look at your setup. I had a quick look at your warm up log file and noticed that around the 10.9 sec mark your manifold pressure increases to positive pressure, maybe the MAP sensor is not calibrated or selected properly. The engine RPM is 735 at one point with 2.2 % throttle and the MAP is reading 117 Kpa ( almost 3 psi of positive pressure) , strange. At the start of the log with 0 RPM, 0% Throttle position your MAP sensor is reading 139 Kpa (5.66 psi positive pressure). You are also only running 4 degrees of timing at low rpm (cranking speed). Regards Dave.

Hi all, I just thought I would let you all know, ViPEC are doing a NEW PRODUCT RELEASE tomorrow Thursday 24 of October. If you go to the ViPEC WEBSITE, HOME page, on the right hand side of the screen you will see a heading "NEWS" Click on the link below " New ECU RANGE FROM ViPEC." Regards Dave.

Hi, On V88's I use pin A6 8volt for GT101 sensors. Regards Dave.

Hi, have you setup a boost table yet. Normally you would use RPM on your X axis and TPS or MAP on your Y axis. I normally use RPM and MAP. SETTINGS : BOOST MODE = Open loop RPM ACTIVATION = dependent on turbo charger as to when it will make boost. I normally set this value low to make sure the solenoid is active before the turbo starts to build boost, just my preference). 1500 - 2000 rpm. MAP ACTIVATION = 100 Kpa. DEACTIVATION TIMEOUT = 0 Under the auxillary output that you have assigned to boost solenoid, set the frequency to 20 Hz. Create a boost table with the Y axis set to MAP, Add MAP values to the AXIS to the value of the boost pressure you wish to run, EG: MAP Kpa 99 = 0 TO ALL RPM LOAD POINTS 100 = 0 to rpm points below 1500 and make the rest of the cells 10 120 = 0 to rpm points below 1500 and make the rest of the cells 10 225 = 0 to rpm points below 1500 and make the rest of the cells 10. Do the same for all of the remaining RPM / MAP points all the way to your desired final boost level, of 18 PSI. (224 Kpa absolute) or 124 Kpa if your using MGP as your AXIS. You need to then do a pull on the dyno or road test the boost. YOU MUST DATA LOG YOUR RESULTS. Look at the data log and see at what rpm the turbo starts to make boost and also where the turbo actually achieves your boost level you are chasing. If you find you do not achieve your desired boost level, keep making the duty cycle value higher in steps of 5 to 10 at a time. EG: if you find the turbo is laggy down low in the RPM band you can try to add to the duty cycle in that load area. So if 10 % duty is too lazy step it up to 20% and see if this aids the low end response ( NOTE, big turbos will be laggy even with a high duty applied). As the turbo becomes efficient and develop boost rapidly you may find that you have to reduce the duty value in your table to control the desired level and to avoid overboost. You may end up with a table that has a value of 45 in all cells from 2000 rpm to max rpm and upto 150 Kpa to achieve your boost level down low and have a value of 20 in the higher MAP areas of your table, to help stabilise the boost to 18 psi. Basically it is an adjust and test exercise, and data logging will help greatly reduce the time it takes to achieve your goal. There are no magic numbers anyone can give you that will work straight up, to many variables exist. Remember to keep an eye on the AIR FUEL ratio and monitor the ignition for detonation. Tuning your boost curve doesn't mean that the boost charactoristics will be the same as when it was tuned previously. EG the engine may make more boost earlier than before and that part of the ignition or fuel map may not be tuned correctly for that particular boost level. Hope this helps. Regards Dave.

Hi Art, are you using any type of launch limiting etc. When you say it goes rich at the start are you referring to when you are loaded at the 3000 rpm launch speed, or when you actually launch and start to move. Regards Dave.

Hi, Do you have closed loop lambda control disabled when trying to Quick Tune the engine. What are your settings under the Closed Loop Lambda Control EG: MAP lockout, RPM High/ Low etc. Regards Dave.

Well done guys, keep chalking them up.

Hi driftkids, with the MAP sensor reading, with the engine not running the map will read 100 Kpa as this is equivalent to atmospheric pressure, ( 1 Bar or 14.5 psi ). So if 100 Kpa equals 14.5 psi/1 bar atmospheric pressure , then 200 Kpa '''''''(ABSOLUTE)'''''' equals 14.5 psi/1 bar of positive pressure ABOVE ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE. Look at the Baro pressure when the engine isn't running for a more exact reading of the barometric pressure. If you set your axis up as MGP (Manifold Guage Pressure) your 100 will be replaced with 0 and 1 bar will equal 100 Kpa, (14.5 psi), if this makes things easier for you. If you do use MGP as your Y axis on the fuel table, this will also allow for Barometric compensation. Just a side note also, With the fuel Y axis set to MGP your vacuum area of the fuel table will read in negative values. Hope this helps Regards Dave.

Hi, do you have Overrun Fuel Cut activated in your PCL file. This can be found under the FUEL tab. Regards Dave.

Yes, the looms will be the same. Regards Dave.

Hi Paul, I have used Ray Hall's EGT kits with ViPEC ECU's. Regards Dave.

Hi Marcel, can you open your PCL file, Go to the file tab, top left of page, go to SAVE AS, Create a new file called MARCEL RUNTIME DATA. Make sure that the top of your screen now has MARCEL RUNTIME DATA in the PCL file name. Connect to your ECU, while ONLINE hit F4 so the new PCL file is loaded to the ECU. Everything will be the same, just the PCL file name will be different. Start the engine and encourage it to run if possible, if possible get the engine to running temperature. WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, hit F2 and this will save the engine running data in RUNTIME VALUES to the new PCL FILE. Post the MARCEL RUNTIME DATA PCL file on this forum. This way we can check as much live running data as possible. When you go OFFLINE to the ECU and EXIT VTS, when the software prompt comes up saying do you wish to save before exit, click no or the PCL file with the running values will be over written. My only other suggestion is if you have TEAM VIEWER on your laptop with internet access while connected to your ECU, I could log in and see if I can see anything LIVE. Regards Dave.

Hi Cake, you are using old software, looking at your screen shots. You should update the software/firmware. As for the injector duty staying on and your AFR not reaching 22:1 on decal, have you got injector cut (decal fuel cut) activated in the software. You can either use decal fuel cut to shut off the injectors on decal (over run) or tune the high vacuum parts of your map, 80 and 100 Kpa (MGP). To tune these areas, the easiest method I have found is to find a big hill or mountain range, drive down the range down shifting gears and applying the brakes to stabilise the load cell for tuning. Obviously you need someone to be driving for you. However using decal fuel cut is a much easier option. No hills required. Regards Dave.

Hi Marcel, I would check the sparkplugs. Even if they are hard to get at, the sparkplugs are your window to what is really happening in the combustion process. I have had engines running on fouled plugs, carbon fouling can create ground tracking paths to the inside of the sparkplug base itself. The spark travels the easiest path to ground, there is sometimes enough spark to get partial fuel mixture combustion. However the flame (burn) propagation is not complete, I refer to this a lazy burn. The air fuel mixture is not completely ignited. I do not have much experience with rotary engines, However around 6 months ago I was called to help a guy I know with his 13REW with a big turbo and all the fruit. He had built a new engine and had done extensive porting to it. He was running a V44 based PNP. He couldn't get the engine to run properly and achieve a realistic air fuel ratio. Engine would start and run, not very well but would run. We checked the ignition timing etc and all was good. I tried adjusting his idle load fuel values and they made very little if any change to the mixtures. I asked him what plugs he was using, brand new ones was the reply. I asked if I could have a look at them. He battled with the cramped conditions and removed the plugs. The 2 leading plugs were heavily carbon fouled and the trailing plugs were wet. He realised he had the incorrect types of plugs fitted to the leading and trailing. He took out some new sparkplugs and showed me. You rotor guys sure use strange sparkplugs, he fitted the new plugs and the engine fired and idled with the radical, blap,blap note that I expected with this type of build. I now had control of the idle mixtures. Later he decided to do some street tuning by himself with data logging. I spoke to him a couple of weeks later and asked him how he went. He said he didn't get far as the engine kept running lean and not running very well. He did a compression test and found one of his new expensive apex seals had failed. I can't remember what these seals were made from, but they were supposed to be the latest and greatest. In this instance the owner was hit with a double whammy. As for the sparkplug issue, I have been on the receiving end of the dreaded sparkplug fouling issue on quite a few occasions. I find that Irridium and Platinum tip (thin centre electrode) type plugs to be the worst for this. Don't get me wrong, these types of plugs are fine when exposed to realistic air/fuel mixtures, but tip a bit more fuel in and they soon show there true colors. Now I know you don't have these types of plugs in your engine, but rotary engine plugs are even weirder. Like I said above the sparkplug is your WINDOW to the combustion process. Take a look, if in any doubt. Regards Dave.

Marcel, one more thing for you to do. If you can get the engine to start again, have the laptop close by, with the engine running can you hit F2 and save the file as Marcel running values and post the PCL file please. Even better still if you can manage to do a data log. Would be handy to see some running values. Thanks Regards Dave.