Dave Kriedeman

Hi Thom, email sent. Regards Dave.

Hi Thom, have you read the "HELP" file in VTS. Open the HELP FILE , hit the SEARCH TAB, Type in CLOSED LOOP BOOST CONTROL, Then click on the LIST TOPICS tab. There is several topics to read, including some sample PID settings. Recommending PID settings can be difficult as no two cars are the same. PID control will vary due to different engine configurations,turbochargers,exhaust setups,wastegates etc. The secret to adjusting PID values is to make very small changes to the settings. Being too aggresive with the values always leads to over shooting or hunting. Let me know if the HELP files are of use. Failing that PM me your email address and i will forward more info. Regards Dave.

Hi Marcel, looks tough. Is this engine a 13B REW. Regards Dave

Digital Input Brake Switch NC (normally closed contact) Digital Input Brake Switch NO (normally open contact). These are both refering to the state of the brake switch in it's INACTIVE STATE, IE: Brake pedal not depressed. The use of this function is really only limited by ones imagination. EG: With foot depressed on brake pedal, setup correctly using a general purpose output, with multiple switch conditions, You could control a Nitrous System to be active at the lights to help build boost for launch at the drags. Or control a Trans Brake in an auto trans, activate intercooler spray bar setup, the list goes on. Regards Dave.

Sorry about my delayed response, been having issues with my internet. V88 has internal DBW control and configuration. V44 must use an external control unit. What engine are you trying to control the DBW on. TF ELECTRONICS build an external DBW controller. Regards Dave.

My Laptop is a Toshiba Satalite, i am using Windows 7 32 bit. CPU is i5 520 M, Dual channel 4 Gig Ram. 625 GB TOSHIBA HARD DRIVE. My laptop is for tuning only, so i have no extra software on it, other than different brands of ECU tuning software. I am only using 18% of it's storage. I use FULL POWER settings, all power saving modes disabled, especially on the USB PORTS. The ECU i was tuning is a new release V44 PNP to suit an R33 GTST Skyline, the new V44 PNP has a V88 topboard in it, The Firmware/Software i am using is current Dealer Test software, not available as yet to the public. However when i was using the current public 4.9.3 F/S i never took any notice of the connection speed as i never had any issues logging and tuning on many customers vehicles.

What serial number is your V44 and what Firmware/Software version are you using.

How many parameters are you guys logging. I was logging a customers car yesterday while he was driving around town and on the highway. My logging rate was at 37.6 Hz. I was logging 8 parameters, i have 13 different pages on my layout which are very heavily populated with guages etc.

Hi Luke, can you please post how you have configured the software for your triggers and your VVT setup. It will help us be able to diagnose your issues. Regards Dave.

You mention the Plasma Booster is connected to the negative side of the coils. That is unusual, i would like to understand how that works. I have never used any of these types of products, i normally use CDI units. CDI units work by amplifying the coil positive from 12 - 14 volts and generating 400 - 500 volts into the coil primary, hence for the huge secondary output. When using CDI units the positive feed to the coil is responsible for coil switching and charge time (minimal), the coil negative is a constant tied to ground. On standard ignition systems coil positive is a constant, fed from ignition source. Coil negative does the switching via the ECU or an ignitor (external or internal with some COP), coil secondary output is governed by the dwell time (time coil negative is held to ground) and the coils construction, number of turns in the secondary winding. So i dont understand how amplifying the negative side of the coil increases the secondary output. But then again, my knowledge base is governed by what i am familiar with. You also mention you have the coils 2 and 3 negatives connected to the wrong ignition module pins. The 2JZ firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4. This setup uses Wasted spark, so the following will apply. Ignition output 1 on module pin No. 1 should go to coil negative controlling cylinders 1 and 6. Ignition output 2 on module pin No. 9 should go to coil negative controlling cylinders 5 and 2. Ignition output 3 on module pin No.10 should go to coil negative controlling cylinders 3 and 4. """NOTE""" the module pin numbers i have stated 1,9 and 10 are used in this response as you have mention that these are infact the correct pin numbers. I havent checked to see if these pin numbers and functions are correct for this module.

I have small probes for back probing connectors. If you dont have small probes,try using a straightened out paper clip to back probe the connector. In the past on some early model vehicles, i have setup a relay to supply good voltage to the coil positive. I bypass the original ignition fed source and connect pin 30 of the relay to the alternator output. I use the original coil possitive feed to activate the relay when the ignition is turned on. This method insures a very healthy power source to the ignition coils. I also see you mention you have an ignition amplifier attached. Care to shed some detail on this. What is the product and how have you connected it. Regards Dave.

What voltage do you get at coil positive, test the voltage while cranking the engine and also with the engine running. Regards Dave.

Hi Artie, i can't remember where you are running your map sensor pick up from. Are you using a vacuum log, with signal referencing from all 4 intake runners. I have used the vacuum log method with a restrictor on BBC race boat engines with aggressive camshaft and 8 throttle intake system. However, TPS based is my preferred setup method for aggressive cammed multi butterfly setups. Setup fuel axis with TPS and Ignition timing as TPS. Are you using Idle Ignition Timing table for idle timing or are you using the base ignition table for idle control. If you still have my email address, send me your file and i will set everything up for you if you wish. Regards Dave.

Hi James, sorry, i misunderstood your issue with the guage setup. I thought you were trying to get rid of the coloured segements of the lower scale of your guage. Regards Dave.

Hi Tineira, How old is your timing belt ? Worn or loose timing belt can cause the issue you are seeing. Nissan RB series engines are also prone to this. This may not be the issue, but definately worth checking. Also, remove the cover from the CAS and check for rust deposits in the housing, i have had the CAS shaft bearing fail due to no lube (old age). Regards Dave.

Hi jaitch, try these following settings for your guage setup. Caption= IAT or what ever the guage is, Give it a name. Setup mode Manual, Minimum = -10 Maximum= 70 Small divisions= 5 Large Divisions= 10 Low yellow line = -11 (this value is the important one, it is a NEGATIVE number and must be set lower than the minimum value of -10). High yellow line= 60 Low Red line = 65 High red line = 70 The comms issues you were having with the power mode settings on your USB ports is documented in the VTS HELP FILE under Solving Communications Problems. Have a read through this help file and make sure you have everything set correctly. Let me know how you go with the guage setup. I will get back to you when i can, myself and other dealers are testing the new software at present. Regards Dave.

Are your sparkplugs Resisitor Type. If not, fit resistor sparkplugs, tune the engine and then refit the non resistored sparkplugs.

Thanks Simon (LEGEND), I have sent Scott the file. Regards Dave.

Hi Andreas, email sent. Regards Dave.

I see you are at a RACE, so this information maybe too late to help you, But here goes anyway, You really need to put a timing reference mark on your crank pulley to make this easy for yourself You need to set your timing light to 0 not 20. You also must remember that the camshafts rotate at half the speed that the crank rotates. For a quick fix, remove number 1 sparkplug, rotate engine by hand, using a long thin screw driver or similar inserted into the plug hole. Rotate the engine slowly until you feel contact with the piston,keep rotating the engine until you feel that you have reached the end of the stroke. You will have a period of crank rotation where there is no piston movement at TDC (TDC DURATION),depending on conrod length. You need to make a mark on the pulley that represents the starting point of no piston movement on the when you first reach TDC and then keep rotating the engine to the point that you first feel the piston about to move back down the bore. Make another mark on your pulley. These marks must be referenced to some form of timing indicator, a bolt or even a piece of wire that you can bolt to the front of the engine, Using the first mark and the second mark you have made on your pulley, make a third mark half way between the two. Make a more obvious mark at that point on your pulley. This will give you a fairly accurate TDC reference on your crank pulley. Set the timing lock to 0 degrees and your timing light to 0 degrees. Disable injectors and crank the engine,adjust the offset till you see the timing light flash on your TDC refernce line on your pulley ( the middle line). Once you have this lined up, fire the engine and recheck you have 0 degrees, you may have to open the throttle a bit to help the engine run due to 0 degrees of timing. Adjust the offset again if the light doesnt flash on your middle line (TDC). Once this is confirmed rev the engine and adjust the IGNITION DELAY value until the timing does not move from your TDC mark. This will eliminate any timing drift, 50 ms is default and normally works fine. Once you have verified all of the above, select DONE and then press F4 save to the ECU and f2 save to your PCL file. Remember that the timing mark is only a rough but fairly accurate position, it may actually be out by a couple of degrees, so be careful with the timing table, it may well end up 2 degrees advanced.

What solenoid do you have?

Do you still have the factory loom and ecu. If you do then you can trace the 2 trigger wires back to the ECU header, determine what pins they are connected to and configure the V88 wiring the same. Failing that, the power and ground wires are located at the same pins on both style CAS connectors. Connect trigger 1 and 2 up to your preference. If you crank the engine and dont get any rpm signal on your laptop, swap the trigger 1 and 2 wires at the CAS connector. You have a 50/50 chance of getting it right straight up. Or take a photo of your CAS connector on the CAS and supply the P/No of the CAS stamped on the side of the CAS, so it can be correctly identified.

Hi Robzter, the base map i sent you IS NOT for E85. Did you try the ignition timing calibration etc that i posted for you earlier. You need to verify the ignition timing before proceding, then as i stated keep adding to the fuel master value until you get the engine to fire. Regards Dave.

What ECU PNP, V44,V88

TPS is calibrated, have you calibrated the MAP sensor under the options tab, directly below TPS Setup. To check the ignition timing is correct, Turn the Injectors OFF, or set the Fuel Master to 0 or disconnect the injectors so that NO fuel is injected while doing the calibration. Go to the Triggers Tab and open, At the bottom of the Triggers tree, you will see a tab called Calibrate, open this tab. Double click on the Set Base Timing Tab. Enter a value in the Lock Ignition Timing To box, eg: 10 DEGREES Crank the engine and using a timing light, adjust the OFFSET VALUE until the timing angle matches the Locked Ignition value. Once the value matches, select the DONE tab. Press F4 to save the value to the ECU. DONT FORGET TO REACTIVATE THE INJECTORS or RESET THE FUEL MASTER VALUE once you have finished. Now you state that sometimes you get a ""pofff"" while cranking, if this sound is emitted from the intake then there is a fair chance that the fuel master value is too small and the engine is too lean to fire, that is if the timing was correct at the time. Adjust the FUEL MASTER VALUE up in small amounts and crank the engine, i normally hold the throttle open at a small amount say 5 % when doing initial start up to help, until you get the values correct. Do you have a wideband A/F meter to check your mixtures. If the engine fires and runs, let it warm up and then RECHECK YOUR IGNITION TIMING using the same procedure as before. Once you have confirmed the timing is correct with the engine running, you must set the Ignition Delay, which is step 3 in the Calibration tab. Set the LOCK IGNITION TIMING VALUE to say 20 degrees, this will allow the engine to rev when you open the throttle. Rev the engine and adjust the DELAY VALUE until there is no drift in the timing. Start with a value of 50 microseconds, Let us know how you go, Regards Dave.