Dave Kriedeman

Sorry, I am a little confused. Do you want to have , 1. Auto head light off control 2. Some form of speed limiter (VALET) switch for when you leave your car at a workshop or take it to get tyres changed etc, no one can thrash the engine on you. I am just a little unclear on exactly what you want. Regards Dave.

Hi Rune, Make sure your injector drivers are set to Saturated and set the Injector Dead time values for the new injectors. Then readjust your fuel master value. You must also take into consideration of what the new injectors recommended operating fuel pressure is. Regards Dave.

Can you post your PCL file so we can have a look for anything unusual and also give us some engine specs etc. Thanks Regards Dave.

Hi Bud (Ludovic), in your injector settings the dead times appear to be correct and you have the drivers set to Saturated which is also correct. However when set to Saturated the ability to set the Peak Amps and Hold Amps is locked. The default is Peak 8 Amps and 0.1 for Hold Amps. The ID injectors require Peak amps of 4 amps and a Hold Amps of 1 amp. However these injectors will still work. You could also try lowering your fuel pressure to 38 psi and adjust the deadtimes accordingly. Something else to consider is are those injectors compatible to your engine setup, regarding to spray pattern etc. Regards Dave.

Hi Sean, cool let me know how you go and if you need any help. Regards Dave.

Hi Sean, can you please post up your PCL file that you run with CLL Control active and do you have any data logs of the fueling behaviour while in CLL mode. What wideband units are you using for both banks, I see there both on cal 5, just curious what they are. Regards Dave.

Hi Marcel, some advice for you to try. You are running ID 1000 @43 psi fuel pressure. Looking at your PCL file I notice a couple of injector related settings you can adjust and test. My ID 1000 dead times @ 43.5 psi are as follows: 6 volt = 2980 8 volt = 2600 10 volt = 1675 12 volt = 1240 14 volt = 990 16 volt = 805 Your injector drivers need to be set to SATURATED which you have. However the ID injectors require a Peak Amp setting of 4 amps and a Hold Amp setting of 1 amp. In saturated mode the settings are Peak 8 amps and hold 0.1 amps default. Unfortunately these can't be altered in Saturated mode only Peak and Hold Mode, but these injectors will still work. Are you still running a Fuel Master of 20 ms and fuel master trim of 5%, with an idle fan trim of an additional 2.00 ms as you had in your last PCL. I also see that you have quite a substantial 3 D injector timing table, curious as to how you came up with these numbers in your table. You also have AIT correction turned off. Your warm up enrichment table also has some strange settings EG: the 80 deg C column. Are you running the same injectors for the primary and secondary, if so the deadtimes need to be corrected. Regards Dave.

Great to see you have it running so well. Well done. Regards, Dave.

Hi Sean, use the AUX O/P to negative switch the coil of a control relay for the second pump. Make sure that the positive feed of the relay coil is controlled via the ignition switch to eliminate back feeding to the ECU. Are you running the boost a pump setup on both pumps or only the second pump. Regards Dave.

Hi Sean, you really only have to select 1 switch logic condition for your fuel pump control. Leave your injector drive 5 set up as you have it GP OUTPUT, Set switch logic to Cond 1 Switch cond = MAP greater than MAP = 140 Unless you wish to use a second influencing switch condition. Regards Dave

Hi Adriano, follow the instructions I gave Marko in the second post. Other than that you need to remove the top cover of the ECU case to inspect the board etc. Regards Dave.

Hi, the only way that the scope will clear back to a blank page is if you shut the software down. However this is not necessary as if you wish to do another scope capture, you just set your voltage scale and your time divisions and hit capture again. The newest scope trace will now be recorded. I have setup a folder in "MY PICTURES" and called it ViPEC SCOPE TRACES. I save the files as JPEG's in that folder. You can then open and review the different scope traces and analyse them by the name you have saved them as. You can probably use other software to manipulate the JPEG image to do overlays etc if required. However I have never had to do any of this. The trigger scope for me is to check for a consistent triggers from Trig 1 or Trig 2 or both and check for errors etc. Recording at different time divisions will give you more detail. Hit capture at any RPM you think you may have a problem, save the data. But when you have captured the data use the scroll tab at the bottom of the page to move back and forth through the trace. This is not really designed as a full blown oscilloscope, it is designed as a simple aid for the user and for tech support. This makes operation of the scope capture very easy for most users to be able to capture the data easily. If you need more detail than the Trigger Scope offers, then unfortunately you will require an oscilloscope. Regards Dave.

Hi, if you open the VTS or iVTS software and go to the HELP tab, Go to the Wiring Information and open. Then click on Communications Port Pinout. Regards Dave.

Hi, have you done the ECCS test under triggers to set widest slot. If so make sure you have turned the ECCS test to OFF again or the triggers wont work. Regards Dave.

Hi, You could in theory use just 2 earth wires on connector A. However it is highly recommended you use all 4 earth wires 2 on connector A and 2 on connector B. Regards Dave.

Hi Mike, did you save the cranking data file while the engine was still cranking. It can be tricky on your own, but you must SAVE THE FILE AS while the engine is still cranking. Your runtime values show no RPM or TRIGGERS 1 and 2,so I assume you saved the file when you stopped cranking. Are all of your sparkplugs wet or only some of them. Back firing from the exhaust indicates to me, ignition firing sequence issue, TRIGGER/TIMING issue. Does this engine have COP run via an ignition module or are they smart coils with inbuilt ignitors. Is your trigger 1 definitely a Hall Effect sensor, 3 wires. If it is a Hall Effect, try swapping from rising edge to falling edge. Smelly has his trigger 1 setup as Reluctor. Looking under the HELP files for BMW, and looking at your TRIGGER OFFSET value of -328 and your IGNITION DELAY set to 115 uS, It would appear that you have set your engine up as a BMW M50 TUB25. If this is correct then the Trigger 1 should be RELUCTOR not HALL EFFECT. Or maybe your engine is different again to the ones in the HELP files. Once again I have not had any experience with BMW's so these are all just hopefully helpful assumptions for you to double check. Regards Dave.

Hi SECURITY, yes your ECU will work in your new car. Will be interesting to see if any issues arise when fitted to the new car. Regards Dave.

Hi, I have downloaded your PCL file and have noticed the following. Going by your injector dead times you are running 50 psi fuel pressure is this correct. I am not familiar with any BMW's so I am not sure if your Triggers are setup correctly. In your run time values it shows under ECU NO ERRORS, however under the Triggers/Limits it shows TRIGGER 1 ERROR COUNT at 1. You have, Transient Ignition Retard turned ON IAT Correction turned ON First Crank enrichment set to 50% I have only had a quick look so far. Who has activated the PASSWORD protection and are you able to unlock the ECU. Turn OFF Transient Ignition retard, even though your table is set to 0. Turn IAT Correction OFF. Set your First Crank Enrichment back to a smaller value than 50%, example 10% or so. You are running 1000 cc injectors with 50 psi of fuel pressure (going by your dead time settings). Your fuel master is only set to 4 and your Fuel Main Table has very small numbers in it. However you are still running what appears to be the default COLD start compensations , warm up, cranking fuel, plus IAT compensation. Going by your runtime values under Analogue Inputs, it is very cold where you are, ECT 14 Degrees C. IAT -1 Degrees C. So in a nut shell, 1000 cc injectors, 50 psi fuel pressure, PLUS LOTS of extra FUEL being added through compensations etc, due to what appears to be cold ambient surrounding temperatures. You need to trim all these fuel compensations down or turn them off. Try also lowering the fuel pressure to say 40 psi and adjust dead times to suit. I also strongly advise to have some fresh clean sparkplugs handy and gap them to suit. You need to clear the fuel from the cylinders and check or replace the sparkplugs. You have confirmed the ignition timing is definitely correct. Crank the engine and hold the throttle at say 5 to 10% to allow some extra air into the engine. Crank and see if the engine tries to fire. Have a wideband connected also to check what is happening. If you crank the engine a few times and it wont fire. Remove a sparkplug and check for excess fuel or no fuel. Also while cranking the engine can you hit F2 and SAVE THE FILE AS "CRANKING RUNTIME VALUES" Post this PCL file on the forum so we can see what is happening while the engine is cranking, a data log would be handy also. However lets keep it all simple for now. These are just a few steps for you to try. Regards Dave.

Hi Bud, have you setup your 2000 cc injectors properly in the software, injector dead times etc,etc. Can you post your PCL file so we can check your settings. Also what fuel pressure are you running. Are you planning on running ethanol or some form of race fuel to warrant using such big injectors. Regards Dave.

Hi SECURITY, Myself and others have fitted many Skyline V44 based PNP units without any issues. The only issue I have ever struck was mentioned above, where someone had altered the factory wiring. One other thing to check, is the wiring loom on the passengers side of the engine bay, near the turbo. This loom has a tendency to get damaged from the heat off the turbo, it is a common issue and the insulation on the wiring sometimes melts and wires short together. Have you tested the permanent power supply to the ECCS relay pin 5 when the engine is not running and then check with it running, then check what is coming out of the ECCS relay pin 3 which supplies power to ECU pin 49, to eliminate a faulty relay (I have had relays with burnt contacts on the COMMON and or N/C or N/O contacts which leads to voltage drop). What does the voltage read at ECU pin 49 with the ignition on engine not running and then with the engine running. If there was an issue with earth switching of the ECCS relay by the ECU then the main Ignition relay would also have a problem. Also just make sure that your dipswitches on the main board of the ECU are pushed firmly into there correct position (I doubt this would be an issue but worth checking). Also make sure that the ECU loom connector block is sitting squarely into the ECU when fitted. It is quite common for the ends to stand up a bit as the bolt is tightened, this leads to poor connectivity to the outer pins on both sides. Just a couple of things to check to help resolve your issues. Regards Dave.

Hi Marcel, unfortunately RS232 cant be run in parallel, (shared between 2 devices). There is a way to have the dash work while tuning when running RS232. You need to create a virtual port out (through port) on your laptop to stream the data out of the laptop to the dash. That way the laptop has it's direct connection to the ECU via RS232 and the dash is streamed the data from the laptop. This was a way around the exact same problem I used to have when tuning race boats. I had my laptop hooked up and the MOTEC dash wouldn't work, as they were setup using Serial data, no canbus available on the ECU being used. The boat driver had no way of knowing how many RPM etc he was at, other than me giving him instructions via helmet intercom. I will try to dig up how I used to set it up and let you know. Been so many years now. Regards Dave.

Hi, can you post a picture of the sensor setup with your trigger tooth setup/collar. I also agree with Ben, that the alloy collar would not work as the Hall Effect sensor would not be influenced by the alloy but would be influenced with the bolt. Regards Dave.

Hi, The GT101 sensor is Hall Effect and does not require a magnetic tooth or trigger edge. the GT101 sensor really needs to see a clean tooth edge. The GT101 is a hall effect sensor that is normally used in conjunction with a trigger wheel or tone wheel. If you are using bolts in your collar, how far is the sensor end to the collar. If the distance to the collar is to far the sensor may not be able to trigger correctly, remember that the collar surface will be regarded by the ecu as the 0 volt negative face, for the falling trigger edge for the sensor I normally run with an air gap of .040 / 1mm to the top of the tooth, with GT 101 sensors. You really need to have a nice square tooth for the GT101 to get a clean trigger edge. Are you using 8 volt or 12 volt to the positive of the GT101. Regards Dave.

Hi Heds, the EGT pyro's must go through an amplifier first. I use Ray Hall's EGT Amplifiers I think he has them on his TF Electronics website. Regards Dave.

Hi muzzytt, yes you could use the hand brake switch if desired. Under the Launch RPM Limiter setup table select a digital input that you have spare as the Activation Control. Then go to the Digital Inputs tab, select the digital input you wish to use. Set it up as follows, FUNCTION = GP Input SWITCH TYPE = Toggle PULL UP RESISTOR = On ON LEVEL = Low ACTIVE EDGE = Falling. Which LAUNCH MODE are you wishing to run, Mode 1 , 2 or 3 Regards Dave.