Dave Kriedeman

Well done, it is great to have a win. You also have full access now to post in the open Forum. I asked Simon to set it up for you the other day. Regards Dave.

Hi, your shield grounds should go to sensor ground at the ECU end. Do not ground the shields at the sensor end. In relation to your setup, you are intending to run an extra MAP sensor back onto your expansion cable on the PNP board. May I ask why you are going to use the expansion cables for the MAP which is internal and the MAF which is AV 2. Regards Dave.

Hi, can you please let me know what your AUX O/P are. EG AUX 4 and 5 are the same 3 switching parameters only aux 5 is set for PWM control. Regards Dave.

Hi, SCREEN SHOT. Regards Dave.

Hi, firstly you need to go online to your ECU and hit the E key and Clear the ECU fault codes, this will get rid of your AN TEMP 1 error which is your ECT sensor. I have created a new PCL file for you. I have added calibration data to both your ECT and IAT sensors. I have used CAL 1 and CAL 2 to calibrate the ECT and IAT. Runtime values show IAT at 100 deg c as shown in my screen shot I have attached also. ECT is at 35 deg c as shown in screen shot. I have added the warm up enrichment value and IAT fuel trim values to the screen shot to show you what is happening at that exact moment you hit F2 and saved the file. IAT was pulling -6% fuel trim from your fuel cell number at the same time the Warm up enrichment table is adding 30.5% fuel trim. So in effect you had 24% fuel trim added to your fuel table numbers. I have done an overall -5% fuel trim to your whole fuel table. Save this new PCL file to your ECU. Check the outputs of the ECT and IAT sensors make sense and are realistic looking values. What is the ambient air temp at you place at present. I have modified your warm up enrichment table to read from MGP on the Y axis instead of TPS. If your ECT and IAT temp values seem realistic then you need to trim these tables. At normal running ECT and IAT values you will not need any trim. In the screen shot there is an idle fuel trim setting also for different loads eg, Electrical load, Air con load etc. Your idle mixture trim will be done from your main fuel table. You need to target around the 14.5 - 15 :1 range for a standard engine. You stated 22:1 with your Megasquirt, that is incredibly lean and would be very surprised if the engine even ran at that AFR. If you load this file and the ECT and IAT seem to have realistic values then check your IAT and ECT trim tables and adjust accordingly. Once again at NORMAL TEMPS you do not want any trims active. Then using the Main fuel table adjust the active fuel cell site until you achieve your desired idle AFR. Setup your data logging and go for a run. """WARNING""" remember that your IAT and ECT fuel trims will be different now and the engines AFR will be different, I also leaned out the main fuel table by 5 %. Be careful that the engine doesn't run lean during high boost and high rpm, however the AFR values you where getting before were incredibly rich, so I am hoping my settings should be more in the ball park. Good luck, Regards Dave. MAXO-TT IAT ECT CALIBRATED MAIN FUEL TABLE TRIM -5 %.pcl

Hi Gerhard, I have sent you a private message. Regards Dave.

Does you vehicle still have the factory ECU connector. If so can you post a photo of it , please. Is your engine 2 litre or 2.5. Regards Dave.

Hi Gerhard, yes fuel pressure differential is compared against MGP so it can be used to check fuel pressure change from static to added boost pressure. If you go into the HELP file and click on the SEARCH tab, type in differential fuel pressure and then the LIST TOPICS. Go down to Differential fuel pressure and then hit display. Very basic description. How many TABLES do you have left. Regards Dave.

Ron, I have only ever done Ford DBW setups. I will ask the ViPEC engineers if they know, they should be back on deck today. Regards Dave.

Hi Ron, this is very strange behaviour. I have no explanation for you. :oops: Do you own a scan tool that you can connect to your grand daughters car and monitor the tps sub and main as you open the throttle. You can buy these universal readers for around $60 these days. I have attached a pin out of the throttle pedal for you, but I cant seem to get one for the TPS. Regards Dave.

Hi Ron, have you tried testing the TPS outputs with the 12 volt + and - hooked up. Also I have not explained myself properly before, we have the motor + and - which you have worked out. So that should leave 1 pin for 5 volt ref 1 pin for sensor gnd 1 pin for TPS main 1 pin for TPS sub. Regards Dave.

Hi, knock frequency is normally a product of cylinder and bore size. You could try changing this value but I don't believe it will help. Regards Dave.

Hi, what if you measure ohms between P3 and P4 as one input and then across P5 and P6 as the second input. 2 PINS = POWER + and - for the motor. 2 PINS = TPS MAIN and SENSOR GND = P3 and P4 ?????? 2 PINS = TPS SUB and SENSOR GND = P5 and P6 ?????? Regards Dave.

Hi, so far I have found. DBW MOTOR + VE = BROWN/RED/SILVER DBW MOTOR - VE = BLUE/SILVER 5 VOLT REF = BLUE SENSOR GND = RED/GREEN TP1 MAIN = WHITE TP2 SUB = GREEN However these are for a later model WRX. Regards Dave.

Hi, so the noise you are talking about, is it best described as a high pitch squeal or a buzzing type sound. Did you recalibrate your settings in the ViPEC Knock module. Also there is software you can download for the ViPEC Knock module called Shock Wave from memory, the audio captured from the Knock module gets analysed via Shock wave. If you download the users manual for the knock module it has all the info in there about it. Just out of curiosity, do you have all of your ECU earths going to the engine block, they should also be grounded to the block at different points. However I have paired V88 earths to the engine block for years without issues.(2 earths together at 1 point and the other pair at a different earth point). Make sure that you have a good earth from battery negative to the chassis and from battery negative to the engine bock. Then I also run an earth from the bock to the chassis. You should aim for as close as possible to 0 ohms between the battery negative and the engine block and the block to the chassis. Also test these same points in DC VOLTS. You want to see less than 1 volt. Try powering the Knock module from a separate power source and use a separate earth. Also check that the Knock module wires between the Knock module and the ECU aren't exposed to other signal wiring around the ECU itself. Regards Dave.

Hi, try the combinations of active edge and pullup resistor setting. EG: you may need active edge rising, pullup off. Regards Dave.

Hi, can you give me the wire colours that are on the DBW connector, stating colours 1 - 6 as per your numbering on your tps photo. Regards Dave

Hi, can you please post your current PCL file you are using now. Thanks Regards Dave.

Hi, I am still looking into this. The information I have found so far contradicts what I have stated in my earlier post of a typical DBW TPS MAIN and SUB response when testing. I have found so far, but still not 100% sure of information accuracy, TPS MAIN CLOSED VOLTAGE = 0.6 V. TPS MAIN OPEN VOLTAGE =3.96V WOT. TPS SUB CLOSED VOLTAGE = 1.48 V. TPS SUB OPEN VOLTAGE = 4.17 V WOT. DBW MOTOR CONTROL FREQUENCY IS 500 HZ. Do you still have the factory ecu connected etc, so you can repower it and test the voltages as I have supplied. Regards Dave.

Hi, I have attached 2 examples of fan control. The first which is a simple GP OUTPUT to control a fan relay would be the best and easiest option for you. The 2nd option in have setup the fan control as aux 8 PWM so I can show both options on the same page. The PWM output control would be better suited to a fan speed controller type setup, 50% half speed,100% full speed etc. As for the DI1 SPEED not working, try PULL UP RESISTOR ON, ACTIVE EDGE FALLING, PULL UP RESISTOR OFF, ACTIVE EDGE RISING. Regards Dave. Just realised that switch conditions for AUX 7 should be 1 and 2 and 3, not 1 and 2 or 3, or your choice of logic. You can also use different switch conditions if you wish, I just chose these 3 for an example.

Hi, also check your Analogue temp input 3 is set to OFF. Your analogue volt 3 is your TPS, make sure the fault settings are correct and perform a TPS calibration, don't forget to press F4 to store changes to the ECU. Regards Dave.

HI, have you setup your high and low fault setting values under the ANALOGUE INPUTS TAB, bottom tab FAULT SETTINGS. Regards Dave.

Hi Ron, I am not familiar with you DBW TPS, however the following normally remain true for most DBW TPS's. You have a 6 pin connector, THROTTLE MOTOR +VE THROTTLE MOTOR -VE. 5 volt REF. Sensor Ground. TPS Main. TPS Sub. Using a multimeter set to ohms, go across sensor ground and one of the tps input pins The TPS MAIN OHMS should start high and go low as the TPS is opened, therefore the TPS voltage will go up as throttle is opened. The TPS SUB OHMS is reversed to the main it will start low and go high as the throttle is opened. So for example TPS MAIN might be 0.50 volts with the throttle closed and the TPS SUB might be 4.25 volts with the throttle closed. Also take note that some DBW TPS's the TPS sub value may plateau at around 75 % , resistance wont increase/ decrease past this point. Hope this is of some help. Regards Dave.

Maxo-tt, once you have setup your VANOS control and changed your temp sensor input settings and confirmed the temps are reading realistic values. Can you please load the attached TARGETAIR FUEL TABLE into your PCL file. I have created a safe target map just to get some tune into your engine. I need you to then do a log run. I want you to manually activate the START and STOP of the log run by using the f8 Key. I am just trying to eliminate any decel fuel values etc when you back off. So once you are at peak revs /boost hit F8 to stop the logger. I want you to log, Engine speed, MAP, MGP, TPS MAIN, IAT, ECT, IGNITION ANGLE, AFR TARGET AN VOLT 3 ( WIDEBAND), INJ DUTY CYCLE. I need you to do this run in say 3rd gear from low rpm to max rpm with WOT (100%) for as much of the run as possible. Save the log file as RUN 1 new AFR TARGET Regards Dave.

Hi, I have attached a screen shot of 2 different ways you can setup the software to control your VANOS solenoid. In these examples I have setup the PWM output as AUX 5 purely so I could show both options on the one screen. If you choose the PWM option obviously it would be applied to AUX O/P 4. The AUX 4 option set up as GP OUTPUT is the easiest but has some limitations. The AUX 5 option set up as PWM OUTPUT has more flexabilty to it, you can choose to have no VANOS under certain boost set points (MAP values) etc if you wish. EG: at 150 Kpa you may wish to turn the VANOS solenoid on at 3000 rpm instead of 1101 rpm and off at 6000 rpm. You will notice that I have added defined ON/OFF values in my PWM tables. EG: 1100 rpm value is 0, then at 1101 value is 100 . Setup this way will give you a definite ON/OFF point where as if you have 1000 rpm value is 0 and 1500 rpm value is 100 the ECU will start to add duty cycle to the solenoid gradually as the engine rpm increases to the fully on 100% set point at 1500 rpm. EG: at 1250 rpm the output would be 50%. You will also see I have added a 3rd condition, TPS value greater than 3%, I have done this as I don't believe you would require the VANOS to be active on decal etc. The 3% value is purely an example value. Try using the ECT and IAT temp set ups in my screen shot, I have found that both those sensors are NTC type. Let me know how you go. Regards Dave.