Dave Kriedeman

Hi mate, do you want all of your Y axis set up as MGP , this way you can setup as PSI in some tables by using the U key or setting up the OPTIONS tab. I have setup all tables with MGP as the Y axis , but I can change them if you wish. Regards Dave.

Consider it done. I just have to sleep for a couple hours now, my medication is making my eyelids feel like they are made from lead. Catch you later on. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, I will setup some extra functions based on having the second expansion connector. That way it will already be programmed for you, you will just need to fit the connector and I will give you instructions on how and what to connect and what the function will be. The end result for this car, is it for fun cruising, drift , drag racing or all of these. I just need to know the intended use of the vehicle, this will give me all the ideas on how I need to set the ECU up. Regards Dave.

So we still have some spares on the expansion connector can you tell me what is left. Also does your PNP have 2 expansion connectors or 1, this does not include the RS 232 / CANBUS CONNECTOR. Regards Dave.

Thanks mate, are you running any expansion connectors off the main board at all for extra inputs etc or are you just using the original plug in loom. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, what year is your engine and is it a short or long ECU header connector. Regards Dave.

Hi Shadow, Yes that is right all late model PNP ECU'S have i88 topboards, The late model V series have V88 topboards. Regards Dave.

Hi, the drive trim will always work, even without a neutral park or gear switch being employed. You should leave this setting turned off, to 0 if you have no DI to activate it, otherwise you will always have the trim amount selected active to the fuel Main Table. Can you post your PCL file regarding the aircon so I can test the function of the inputs , outputs etc on my simulator. Otherwise you can check the status of everything related in the runtimes list hit F12, Look at digital inputs to check the A/C request is functioning, check aux outputs to see if the clutch output is activating etc. Regards Dave.

Ok, I will also need a final list of what functions you wish to have and a full list of all of your inputs, outputs etc, basically what is wired to what so I can setup the files correctly. It is 9:30 pm here now, my medication has kicked in so it is time for me to sleep. I normally getup around 3:00 - 4:00 am. I will continue with your file then, Regards Dave.

Hi, I am actually in Cairns North Queensland Australia. I changed the time clock from Sydney to Cairns but somehow stuffed it up. So now I have absolutely no idea. Regards Dave. :oops: Also if the firmware has been updated I would like your latest PCL file sent to me please. I believe you have a timing light and a wideband AFR meter correct. Is all wiring etc done. All going well I would like to send the new PCL tomorrow and fire this puppy up. Do you have TEAMVIEWER on your laptop????????????? Regards Dave.

Hi Shadow, I see you are on line at present my time here is 8.57 pm, what is your time, I am trying to establish a timeline between us. Regards Dave.

Hi, That is strange that you state that it is an i44 as when I open his PCL FILE and go to the HELP FILE, Under ECU INFORMATION it states that it is an i88 TOPBOARD PNP UNIT. Earlier PNP units were all V44 and then later v88 TOPBOARDS. The ECU is stating it is an i88 TOPBOARD and it is also running version 5.0.1 firmware, so it needs to have the firmware upgraded to version 5.0.3 The other give away that it is an i88 TOPBOARD is the fact that it has 8 injector outputs and 8 ignition outputs. i44 only have 4 fuel and 4 ignition outputs. Regards Dave.

Hi, I will setup these stages and get the PCL file finished off. We can discuss the other options etc at length afterwards. A brief over view, we can have a low boost conditions, high boost conditions, ,gear dependant boost levels (different boost level every gear), valet boost levels etc,etc,etc. You can do lots and lots of cool things with the i88. I will get the PCL finished so we can start this thing up and get some tune into it . Do you have TEAMVIEWER on your laptop, that way I can log into your ECU via your laptop and help tune the engine from here in Australia. Regards Dave.

All good, mate do you want single stage boost or dual or 3 stage boost. Regards Dave.

Hi guys, are you running the factory CAS (CRANK ANGLE SENSOR) unit on the front of the timing cover. The factory CAS produces the trigger 1 and trigger 2 signals we require. Step one, remove number 1 ignition coil and fit a HT LEAD (SPARK PLUG CABLE) into the coil and the other end onto the No1 sparkplug. Attach the timing light to the plug lead. DO NOT USE THE INDUCTION LOOP AT THE REAR OF THE ENGINE OR THE COIL DRIVER WIRES THEMSELVES. Using the sparkplug HT LEAD METHOD is by far the most accurate. Also avoid using DIAL BACK TYPE TIMING LIGHTS, What I do next is loosen the 3 CAS mounting bolts , i rotate the CAS so that the bolts are centre to the slots on the CAS housing. I tighten the bolts up and never touch them again. You need to then go to the FUEL SETUP table and then the FUEL MAIN tab and set INJECTION MODE from sequential to OFF. PRESS F4 to save to ECU. Go to the Triggers tab and select CALIBRATE, double click set base timing. Crank the engine and adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET until the timing light lines up with 15 degrees or what ever value you set the Ref Timing to. Once you have adjusted the offset to match your Ref Timing press DONE for now. Go back to the Fuel Main Tab and reset the INJECTION MODE from OFF to SEQUENTIAL again. Now press F4 and save to ECU, also press F2 and save to the file or create a new one. Now crank the engine and fire it up, let it get warm, go back to Calibrate and recheck your timing with the engine idling, adjust the Trigger Offset if the timing isn't at 15 deg. Then bring the revs up to around 2000 rpm and recheck the timing is at 15 degrees, if not adjust the offset to correct. Now let the engine idle, press F4 save to ECU and F2 save to the file. Now rev the engine and watch the timing mark, with the TEST BASE TIMING page open, if the timing moves from your set value of example 15 degrees adjust the IGNITION DELAY value until the timing stays stable on 15 degrees. If all is well and the setting is correct the timing will be rock solid on 15 degrees. However on some engines with cam driven sensors with rubber timing belts you will get some variation in the timing due to belt harmonics etc. Adjust to the least amount of movement as possible. Quite often you will end up with the timing retarding slightly as you rev the engine. Adjust to achieve the minimum retard as possible if you can not achieve the timing to stay solid and not move. I did an R34 GT-T the other day and the timing kept retarding 10 degrees, no matter what ignition delay number I used, it would retard 10 degrees every time. Out of curiosity I hit F12 key and checked triggers and had 22 trigger 1 errors. Everything else was perfect' Replaced sensor and everything was perfect. R34 GTT, FMIC kit, dump pipe and exhaust, stock turbo 12 psi boost, no other mods at all, made 310 hp on straight BP98 fuel. I thought that little Precission turbo would be struggling to make 29 psi of boost. Did they state what a safe efficient pressure would be for that turbo. Regards Dave.

Hi, I had a look at your Power FC file, looking at your timing table I assume you were running E85 fuel or the likes. I also noticed you had no air temp compensation settings for the ignition. (brave). What are your average ambient air temps over there, summer , winter etc Regards Dave.

Hi mate, It appears that getting the timing events is going to be a mission. If I had the car in front of me I could find out with a degree wheel and dial indicator etc. If cam valve timing events are available to me I use them in setting up the tune. However considering that these are just PON CAMS, there isn't going to be much gained in this department anyway. They are not a radical camshafts. I strongly advise checking if some sort of restrictor or blank off is required , or do you simply leave the old solenoid in place to stop oil flow via the inlet VTC Does the solenoid just stay in place and remain turned off. Is it recommended that you remove the cam solenoid. I have done a few RB25DET Skylines with Tomei PONCAMS and left the VTC active without any clearance issues with the cam lobes and the cylinder head. If the VTC can stay fitted and active we will make more power with being able to adjust the inlet cam electronically. But this is purely your call. Regards Dave.

Hi, I will need to know the exact valve timing specs of those camshafts and also the amount of advance and retard used on the vernier gears. With removing the hydraulic solenoid activation for the inlet cam gear , is there some form of oil restrictor fitted to the cylinder head to stop or restrict the oil flow. Is your engine S13,S14,S15. I have attached a screen shot of the valve timing events for a Tomei Pon Cam to suit a Toyota 4AG 5 VALVE, to give you an idea of what I am after. Knowing the lift and duration helps, but I really require the actual valve opening and closing timing events. Advertised or at 0.050 preferably advertised. Regards Dave.

Hi, Can you please supply me with a compressor efficiency map for this turbo or a link. I can't even find this turbo listed on the Precision website. I am trying to calculate if this turbo will generate 29psi of boost in it's efficiency range or not. It maybe able to produce 29 psi but at what sacrifices, eg air temp 80 degrees c. Regards Dave.

Hi, I am starting to feel a bit more alive now. I have attached 2 different calibrations for your AEM MAP sensor. I have also attached the injector dead times for the id 2000"s at 43.5 psi. I think in the PCL file I will create for you that I will set up the injector dead times for 50 psi fuel pressure, considering you are using E85 and aiming for 29 psi of boost. I am still considering which cal I will use for the MAP sensor. Sorry about taking so long to get this done, but I am either bombed on pain killers making me sleep or in to much pain to do anything.. I will build you a complete PCL file but also build you a layout to add to your layouts. I like having nice looking layouts. Do you have the cam timing events for your camshafts. I need the following info if available, that way I can build a 3 D injection timing table to suit your engine. I need to know how many degrees the INLET VALVES OPEN and CLOSE. I need to know how many degrees the EXHAUST VALVES OPEN and CLOSE also. Do you still have active variable intake cam control. Do you have verier (adjustable) cam gears or just standard. If you have vernier gears can you let me know how many degrees advanced or retarded the gears are. Regards Dave.

No worries, glad to help anytime. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, I will create a timing table to start with, however if you wish to post it up I will take a look at it. Or post up your POWER FC tune, I have FC EDIT. By the way we can throw the MAF sensor away, if you haven't already. Regards Dave.

Hi, I haven't forgot about this project. I have been very unwell with extreme pain for the last couple of weeks. I am on large doses of very powerful pain medication, so my brain doesn't work correctly while under the influence and it makes me sleep a lot. I have just come back from the doctors again for different medication again, tonight. I have been working on the PCL file for this along with a few other jobs. I needed to know how much boost he wants to run for many reasons, boost cuts, boost control target tables etc, working out what his final fuel pressure will be with static pressure plus full boost pressure etc. Spanning the Y axis on Fuel and Ignition tables and any other tables that will be MAP,MGP etc based AXIS. The more information I can gather the easier it is to set things up. Setting up PCL files for cars that aren't in front of you is quite difficult hence for the many questions. Yes , you are all correct, I DO NOT WORK FOR ViPEC. I enjoy helping others where possible. When I first started I could only ask a random question here or there, I didn't have the luxury of FORUMS or the Internet for help. 99% of what I know I have taught myself through testing , reading and studying etc. It is something you never stop learning. I have been doing this stuff for close to 20 years and there is still so much more to learn, I had many frustrating times trying to sort out issues etc. This is why I try to HELP where possible. I also strongly believe in the product and love it's capabilities. Sure there maybe some things people wish for that aren't possible in earlier versions etc. But for a very fairly priced ECU it sure is loaded with some very impressive features. There are also many ways to control devices under certain operating conditions etc. So by getting involved and helping those out seeking help, I in return learn as well. No one has ever done everything. So having a go at everything that crosses your path will expand your knowledge base 10 fold. So in the process of helping you, at times I am learning also. That is what this FORUM is about, NO BULL$%@T, just cold hard facts and many suggestions to help you all in the long run. Regards Dave.

Hi Rick, Have you gone into the LINK folder in C DRIVE or where ever the folder is located., selected the USB Drivers folder and remove/repair reinstall he USB drivers directly from this Folder. I had issues with a new laptop , with the exact symptoms as you. I did the above, and also setup the connection as Manual using F3 key and selected the BAUD rate to 19 200 or 38 400. Once I had finally established connection I was free to setup my connection parameters as I wished, Regards Dave

Hi mate, sorry for the delay, I will finish your cal file today, I ended up in hospital again last night and got home at 4:30 this morning it is 8:46am at my place right now. I am in extreme pain and told to take it easy, so finishing your cal file and testing it seems like a good way to chill out. Regards Dave.