Dave Kriedeman

Hi Shadow, that is great news it is the MAP sensor I thought it would be. So the info with the sensor said 0.500 volts = 0 psi (0.00 Kpa Gauge, 100 Kpa Absolute, 0 BAR) 4.500 volts = 75 psi (517.24 Kpa Gauge, 617.24 Kpa Absolute, 5.17 BAR). I am terribly sorry my CAL is incorrect, it should be setting INPUT B = 4.500 volts, My brain is useless today, I put 4.95 volts. I am very sorry. Reset these values and carry out a MAP recalibration, but this still requires other discussed issues in your P.M's I have sent you. Regards Dave. I have edited the previous screen shot and have added a second screen shot, I have done one in Kpa and the other in PSI.

Hi Shadow, Is there a part number physically on the sensor and what colour is it, green or silver. Is the sensor a flat remote unit or a cylindrical unit with a 1/8 npt thread on it that is screwed directly into the inlet plenum. Did you calibrate the MAP sensor after doing the new cal for it, calibrate as in calibrate MAP SENSOR under ECU controls. I need for you to carry out the other things and have results for all of these requested tests sorry. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, it appears the tuner hasn't set up the knock control properly either, I set it up in the PCL file and the LAYOUT for Shadow but the rest, required the tuner setting up correctly . Regards Dave.

Hi, a little late now, but when ever I think I am having a back pressure issue I drop the exhaust, unless I believe the issue is the exhaust manifold or turbine A/R. A simple way to make up a back pressure sensor fitting, is to weld a fitting to the manifold or the exhaust dump pipe, depending on where you believe the back pressure issue to be. Use a fitting that will allow the use of small diameter copper or stainless pipe with compression olive fitting or swage lock type fitting, make this pipe as long as possible to disapate the heat as much as possible obviously, then use a piece of hose to connect to the pressure gauge or use olive or swage lock fitting to the gauge again. I would also like you to connect a hose from your boost source to the wastegate actuator. I want to find out the wastegate crack pressure, the point at which the wastegate first starts to open and bleed boost off. Completely disconnected one would expect a radical boost pressure, even with only an 8 psi spring, but I want the test done this way please. Also I need a diagram very basic is fine of how the wastegate is plumbed up and what solenoid ports are used etc. In the parts of the boost table where the boost solenoid duty is 100% the boost should be 300 odd Kpa. Regards Dave.

Hi Shadow, I have attached a data log of an R32 GTR Skyline with twin small HKS GT-SS turboes, I tuned on the dyno Saturday. I used basic open loop waste gate control on this engine and as you can see the boost curve is pretty sweet. The GTR runs 413 HP @ all 4 wheels on 18 psi , stock bottom end and straight BP98 fuel. The maximum duty I used in this set up was 50% down low to bring the turboes in strong and hard. This thing is awesome to drive in 4 wheel drive mode. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, here is a basic and accurate TI 5 BAR calibration for you. Set your MAP sensor up as the same and carry out a MAP calibration and press F2 to save to PCL file and F4 to save to the ECU. I will create a list of things I need you to check and will post them ASAP. Have to go play with the tune on a Twin Supercharged Big Block Chev now. Regards Dave.

Hi, PM SENT. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, OK can you please verify the exhaust back pressure please and let me know what it is. Also need to know how your wastegate is setup, as having 100% DUTY in the table does not make sense. Do you own the wideband and is it connected to the ECU still. Need to do the tests etc I have requested so I know what is going on. I should be able to rectify your other issues for you and get a lot better tune in the engine for you. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, that's great news. What boost did you wish to run 28 psi or something wasn't it. Can you give me the P/No from the sensor so I can correct the CAL for you. Are you tuning in Lambda or AFR, your data log mixtures look pretty wild. I also need to know what type of wastegate you are using and how it is plumbed up. The boost table has 100 % duty in it, when the solenoid is at 100% duty the boost should be off it's head. I need you to connect a vacuum hose from a boost source either on your compressor housing or even inlet plenum and connect it to the under side of the wastegate if it is external, or just to the fitting on the wastegate dashpot if it is an integral wastegate. This way we can see how many psi the waste gate spring is rated at, if it is only for example an 8 psi spring and you wish to run 2 bar, it will never happen. Regards Dave.

The easiest solution would be to use the stock CASÂ trigger wheel. Do you still have it or only the AEM trigger disc. Regards Dave.

Hi Marty, I am not sure about receiving RS232 data from a device back to the ECU as the RS232 formats under configuration, even though there is a RS232 Rx pin on both the USB and the CAN /RS232 ports. I have used RS232 Tx to dashes and external loggers etc, however I am not sure about the CAN/RS232 PORT being dual duplex on the RS232 being able to receive the data into the ECU on the Rx pin, I have never tried to do this before. The ViPEC crew will have to answer this one sorry. In theory it should work, however SHOULD is not a real answer, sorry. If it does work, you must remember that you can not have the PC connected at the same time as the RS232 device. However if you ran the RS232 device back through a convertor such as a MoTeC STC (Serial to Can convertor ) then the RS 232 can be converted to CAN and the AFR meter and your laptop/PC can be connected at the same time. I hope that helps. Regards Dave.

Hi, when you enter the firmware update page you will be presented with a box with all the different firmware upgrades that are available for you to select and upgrade to. You should read the upgrade changes made for each firmware update, listing bug fixes and added features. Some new added features must be setup prior to the ECU being used again. The new windows based firmware updater gives you the option of reverting back to a previous firmware version should an issue occur from a new firmware upgrade. The old DOS based system didn't allow for this option. Upgrade to the current 4.9.9 and make sure the usb drivers install correctly. Regards Dave.

Hi all, I am running all LINK, ViPEC , MoTeC ,EMtron, Microtech, etc, etc on Windows 7 64 bit without any issues. I find it unusual that such a high number of users are having a problem. If the drivers don't get a clean install you will definitely have issues. By clean install I mean, the software installs correctly and states so, you plug the USB cable into any chosen USB port available, make sure the connection is firm, make sure the ignition is NOT turned on when you first set this up.  When you plug the USB cable into the USB port on the laptop, listen for the tell tail tone/ noise that is normally generated by connecting the usb to the port. If you are using a PNP ECU check the middle connection, where the PC lead connects to the pigtail usb lead plugged into the ECU board, I sometimes have to open and reconnect these. Check your USB PORT is not running in POWER SAVING MODE, I had been caught out with that before also, but was on Windows 7 32 bit. Read the HELP file thoroughly about communications issues and recheck everything. Those who still have issues post a list up for Scott or Simon to contact me, I will need your email addresses you will need to download the free non commercial use TEAMVIEWER, in will remote log into your PC and endeavour to fix your issues. Regards Dave Kriedeman.

Hi mate, I am very happy to hear your car is running and you are sorting it out. However I just wish to appolagise for not catching up on the weekend etc. I became very ill again and was bed ridden for 3 days, I am on new medication again and I am starting to feel a little better now. Let me know if you need further help. Did you need to make many changes to my PCL file for the engine to run well. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, yes should be able to help you with teamviewer around 7 tonight . Send me a reminder email but. Regards Dave.

An important message, I never rely on the timing loop at the rear of the engine or clamp the inductive pick up around the coil driver wires to trigger the timing light. I always fit a HT SPARK PLUG LEAD to the coil and then onto the sparkplug, I put the inductive pickup on the lead. Tape up the end of the coil where the HT LEAD plugs in, to stop shock or HT SPARK misfire to ground. DONT FORGET TO CALIBRATE THE TPS AND MAP SENSOR. Dave.

Yes, the CAS this is very important. Make sure you go to test ECCS tab first under Trigger setup, disable the fuel or injectors and crank the engine continuously until a value appears in the widest slot position. Once this value has been recorded, turn the test ECCS SYNC function to OFF. Then make sure you hit F4 and save to the ECU, I always hit F2 and save to the file also. Now go to the Calibrate triggers tab, double click the set base timing tab, Once again make sure that the base fuel is set to OFF instead of SEQUENTIAL or just disconnect the injectors, you do not want the engine to fire while trying to set your offset correctly. Select a reasonable value such as 20 deg, 20 degrees will be the fourth line from left to right on the balancer each mark is 5 degrees. Adjust the offset until you see 20 deg Once you see 20 degrees, re enable the fuel system and try to start the engine, remembering what I have posted in the previous post I made. Once you have the engine going, set the trigger offset again to achieve 20 deg. I have sent you emails with the other info. Good luck. If you look at my timing able you will see it is fairly savage, comes onto high timing values fairly quickly, you have eliminated the inlet VCT so I have tried to allow for this and also you are running E85. But as always watch out for Detonation. I have setup Knock control in your file, however unfortunately I cant setup the rest of that for you without being in front of the engine on the dyno. Good luck. Sorry about the delay. Dave.

Hi, I will try to send the layout again. Regards Dave. NO SUCH LUCK EXTENSION LLF IS NOT ALLOWED.

Hi, have you had your laptop online with the ECU powered when you try to change the injector output status. If not, they will not change. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, still feeling a bit sick and in pain. However I have finished your PCL file for you to try. I have also created a layout for you to work from the PCL file with. Please ask anything you are not sure of. Make sure you turn the FUEL MAIN setting from SEQUENTIAL TO OFF, or disconnect the injectors. Go to calibrate triggers and carry out a proper trigger calibration without any fuel, so it doesn't try to start. Once you have the trigger settings correct and the engine timing , is correct, turn the fuel back onto sequential or reconnect the injectors. Holding the throttle open very slightly say 5% max crank the engine, adjust the fuel master number up or down in small increments to get the engine to fire. You need to use an AFR meter while doing this process, it is extremely important that you use an AFR meter so you know if your pouring to much fuel in or not enough. If things are right and close you should have the engine running in around 5 minutes or so. Once the engine fires and is running, you need to make sure ,coolant, oil levels, fuel leaks etc have no issues. If all is good you need to restart the engine and it around the 2000/2500 rpm until the engine warms up and all fuel enrichments etc are all off. While running the engine at 2000rpm re-enter the calibration mode and set the Ignition timing for around 20 degrees, adjust the offset to get the ignition timing smack on 20 deg. Adjust the fuel master so that while running at 2000 rpm to keep things safe at around 13 :1 -12.5:1. Before you start any of this turn the fuel pump onto test on and set the fuel pressure regulator so that the fuel pressure is around 43 psi to match my injector dead times. Have fun let me know how you go. Once the engine fires and runs on it's own , recheck and recalibrate the triggers. 99.9% of the time the trigger offset needs adjusting slightly as the engine is running at a more consistant rpm. You will have to PM me as I can not attach the Layout file. PM me your email address so I can email the LAYOUT FILE TO YOU. Have fun, Regards Dave. PS:::: PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU SAVE THE FILE TO THE LAPTOP AS A NEW PCL FILE WITH A DIFFERENT NAME (F2) ALSO ALWAYS PRESS F4 TO SAVE ANY CHANGES TO THE ECU, ESPECIALLY AFTER SETTING THE TRIGGERS UP ETC. Don't forget to do a FIRMWARE UPGRADE FROM MEMORY YOUR FIRMWARE IS OLD. SHADOWS SR20DET SR20 DET E85 FUEL..pcl

Can cut OBD2 connector from car at wreckers and use smart phone or tablets for viewing data. Can setup for vehicle yearly inspections when they wish to check operation of on board diagnostics etc. Can also setup CANBUS circuit for future CANBUS capabilities. Would you like me to setup Automatic starter motor control with gearlockout etc. Regards Dave.

ASAP BROTHER. Did you end up getting expansion cables for the base board. This will give me a few more tricks up my sleeve. Just check for sure, but normally i88 TOPBOARD PNP's have 2 expansion loom connectors. If you order a second expansion cable order a CAN/OBD2 loom connector also, this will give us CAN BUS ability and also some OBD2 ability etc. Regards Dave.

Hi guys, I am back and starting to feel a lot better, different medication again. So hopefully this will be the final trick to get me up and running on all 16 cylinders again. I will get myself sorted again and finalise this PCL so you can get cruising. Regards Dave.

Hi, you must also remember with the different loads applied that the ignition timing and main fuel table values and idle speed tables etc will also change as the load varies with the differing conditions, The trims are only part of the equation. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, give me a couple of days, I have all but finished your PCL file, but I am back in hospital today in severe pain. Hopefully, they will finally fix me. I am very sorry about taking so long to do this for you. But if you let me finish it for you it will be worth it for you and your car. Sorry again. Talk soon. Regards Dave.