Dave Kriedeman

Hi Sutkale, Yes these values are used in the back ground for making calculations. The engine capacity is used to determine the load ABS parameter. The injector size is to calculate instantaneous fuel consumption. It is in the current 5.1.0 software/firmware, it was not available in the previous 5.0.3 software/firmware. Don't forget to 0 all cells in the Charge estimation table if you don't want it having any influence on your tune. Regards Dave.

Hi all, I just wanted to make all members aware of HPA - HIGH PERFORMANCE ACADEMY. I have attached a review I have done for the ViPEC site as I couldn't get the copy, transfer and paste function to work. Please have a read , I strongly advise giving these courses serious consideration. Regards Dave.

Hi all, I would like to introduce to those of you that don't know this exists, HP ACADEMY. HP ACADEMY is setup by ANDRE and BEN in New Zealand and is an ONLINE EFI TRAINING COURSE. These guys have setup an outstanding very professional WEBINAR based tuning training platform. The setup contains, 1. EFI TRAINING COURSES. 2. WEBINARS on new PRODUCTS and HOW TO TUNE SPECIFIC FUNCTIONS ON MANY DIFFERENT ECU's. 3. A COMMUNITY BASED FORUM, for general discussion and for technical support. As most of you know I suffered a double brain stroke last year, i have had 8 months of recovery, so you can imagine how much boring television I have watched. I then discovered these two characters and thought I would give them some of my dwindling bank account and watch there TRAINING COURSES. I thought , why not. I have been doing this stuff for 20 years and you never stop learning, lets see what these guys have to offer. Well bugger me dead, ANDRE delivered a very professional course and he reminded me of stuff I had forgotten. It was like learning all over again. I couldn't believe I had forgotten some very important fundamentals, I even wrote them down as to not forget them again. Andre and BEN offer a very professional straight to the point setup. Don't worry about being intimidated by having over the top technology for you to try and get a grip on in an instant. These live to air Webinars also have a chat screen where you can interact live with them asking questions if there is something you are unsure of. The Training courses are broken into many modules, so you take things one step at a time. Once you have paid for the course or courses you wish to watch you can return and re-watch them as many times as you like. This also gives you instant access to the PRO TUNER section of the Course which contains the live streaming interactive webinars and the PRO TUNER FORUM. You will be sent emails notifying you of when the next course or online webinar will be happening. There are definitely at least 2 courses I strongly recommend that you take at the very least. 1 is EFI TUNING FUNDAMENTALS, this course takes you through the basic fundamentals of EFI system operation and how everything ties together. 2 is the LINK G4+ Tuning course, this is a very good course even though it is using the LINK G4+ it is still very close software and functionally as the i SERIES ViPEC. This course gives you an overview of how to make a setup and use the software down to making tuning changes. There are also a heap of other videos etc to watch. I am still poking my nose in for a look when ever I get a chance. So do yourselves a huge favour and check them out. I strongly recommend these courses to youse out there that wish to learn to tune or further your tuning abilities from what they are now. Andre is a very experienced tuner and does the actual training courses and webinars. Ben on the other hand is the pretty boy (JUST JOKES MATE) who helps setup and make these productions all come together. As a team together they work brilliantly to produce what I believe is a very high quality complete package course, that I strongly advise having a look at. Their website is http://www.learntotune.com Regards Dave Kriedeman.

Hi all, I would like to introduce to those of you that don't know this exists, HP ACADEMY. HP ACADEMY is setup by ANDRE and BEN in New Zealand and is an ONLINE EFI TRAINING COURSE. These guys have setup an outstanding very professional WEBINAR based tuning training platform. The setup contains, 1. EFI TRAINING COURSES. 2. WEBINARS on new PRODUCTS and HOW TO TUNE SPECIFIC FUNCTIONS ON MANY DIFFERENT ECU's. 3. A COMMUNITY BASED FORUM, for general discussion and for technical support. As most of you know I suffered a double brain stroke last year, i have had 8 months of recovery, so you can imagine how much boring television I have watched. I then discovered these two characters and thought I would give them some of my dwindling bank account and watch there TRAINING COURSES. I thought , why not. I have been doing this stuff for 20 years and you never stop learning, lets see what these guys have to offer. Well bugger me dead, ANDRE delivered a very professional course and he reminded me of stuff I had forgotten. It was like learning all over again. I couldn't believe I had forgotten some very important fundamentals, I even wrote them down as to not forget them again. Andre and BEN offer a very professional straight to the point setup. Don't worry about being intimidated by having over the top technology for you to try and get a grip on in an instant. These live to air Webinars also have a chat screen where you can interact live with them asking questions if there is something you are unsure of. The Training courses are broken into many modules, so you take things one step at a time. Once you have paid for the course or courses you wish to watch you can return and re-watch them as many times as you like. This also gives you instant access to the PRO TUNER section of the Course which contains the live streaming interactive webinars and the PRO TUNER FORUM. You will be sent emails notifying you of when the next course or online webinar will be happening. There are definitely at least 2 courses I strongly recommend that you take at the very least. 1 is EFI TUNING FUNDAMENTALS, this course takes you through the basic fundamentals of EFI system operation and how everything ties together. 2 is the LINK G4+ Tuning course, this is a very good course even though it is using the LINK G4+ it is still very close software and functionally as the i SERIES ViPEC. This course gives you an overview of how to make a setup and use the software down to making tuning changes. There are also a heap of other videos etc to watch. I am still poking my nose in for a look when ever I get a chance. So do yourselves a huge favour and check them out. I strongly recommend these courses to youse out there that wish to learn to tune or further your tuning abilities from what they are now. Andre is a very experienced tuner and does the actual training courses and webinars. Ben on the other hand is the pretty boy (JUST JOKES MATE) who helps setup and make these productions all come together. As a team together they work brilliantly to produce what I believe is a very high quality complete package course, that I strongly advise having a look at. Their website is http://www.learntotune.com Regards Dave Kriedeman.

Hi all, I just wanted to high light a couple of areas of the new software that I want all to be aware of in I SERIES software. When setting up your PCL file for your engine, under the FUEL MAIN tab there are some new settings. 2 of which I notice get overlooked and I myself have missed on a customers PCL file I am giving assistance with. They are 1. ENGINE CAPACITY in CC's 2. INJECTOR CAPACITY in CC's The ECU uses these values in the back ground to calculate engine load ABS and fuel consumption. Please make sure that you set these values up correctly. Also on another new function Charge Temp Estimate Table tuning, to disable this function make the whole table 0, this will turn it off and you can just use IAT and ECT compensations if you wish. Regards Dave.

Steve, if you make the table all 0's the function is turned off and you just have straight IAT or ECT correction. Regards Dave.

Hi, as I stated this is a more complex way to tune, however more accurate. To be honest I haven't tuned with this new method as yet on the i SERIES, I have still been using IAT and ECT until I get some time to do some test tuning with the Charge temp correction table. However the concept does seem to be very similar to Autronics version of Charge temp tuning. With Autronic software they had a default table that worked fairly well straight up and you fine tuned from there. If it was my own car or the customer wasn't in a hurry for his car to be returned quickly I would prefer to tune using the Charge Temp Estimate Table and use the IAT and ECT to fine tune if required. Simon or ASHLEY may want to add their comments regarding this tuning method, to clear things up. Regards Dave.

Hi, by using this method it is a more accurate way to tune. I agree it can be a lot more time consuming however more accurate. Previously we had just straight air temp inputs and engine coolant temp inputs. This is fine and with the available trim tables can still lead to very accurate tuning. However by using the Charge Temp Correction method the ECU is calculating the desired fuel required to make the AFR/LAMBDA levels more accurate again. For example the incoming air temp is measured by the IAT sensor, it measures 18 degrees celcius, however the engine coolant is measured by the ECT sensor and it is 80 degrees celcius. So therefore what is the true air temp temperature and therefore DENSITY. By using the Charge TEMP """APPROXIMATION""" table the ECU can work out the approx. air temp inside the engine to include latent heating via the heated engine effecting the air temp and density. As the help file states, by using certain values you can make the fuel table favour the IAT sensor or the ECT sensor to effect the fueling. So for example you may wish to use the values favouring the ect at low engine speeds which equates to slower air speed which can cause higher heat soak to the incoming air charge. At high rpm and road speed you may trend your table towards the IAT sensor as the air temp will be less likely to be influenced by latent heat build up and the engine temp itself should be at a constant, therefore leading to a cooler and more dense air charge. You can also use your IAT and ECT correction tables to fine tune the Charge Temp Estimation table. Just remember what the name states ""ESTIMATION"" table. I hope this clears things a little for you. Regards Dave.

Hi, yes that is OK, just use the first setup example I showed you for the DI setup, using negative or low switching. Try changing the switch type between toggle and momentary, but it shouldn't really matter. Regards Dave.

Hi, 12-1 works well. I ran 12 - 1 on a V6 2 stroke with sequential fuel and sequential ignition via 2 x M & W CDI units. Like I say the capabilities of these ECU's is outstanding. Great to hear all is panning out for you, good luck. Regards Dave Kriedeman.

Hi turbodude, What digital inputs do you have spare or do you wish to use the clutch switch. If you wish to use the clutch switch then you will need to setup the DI as follows which if already running you should have done. FUNCTION - GP INPUT SWITCH TYPE - MOMENTRY PULL UP RESISTOR - OFF ON LEVEL - HIGH ACTIVE EDGE - RISING. Regards Dave.

Hi, firstly you need to establish if the clutch switch is negative or positive input. Test with a multi meter and let me know. Regards Dave.

Hi turbodude, There are many ways to activate the launch control via speed. It is dependant on how many digital inputs etc you have spare. But to keep it simple, Activate launch control under Motorsports Tab. Select MODE 1 2D option under Launch Mode. Select an activation method, easiest would be the DI that the Vehicle speed is connected to, however I would advise wiring a separate DI switch to activate Launch Control, unless this is a drag car. You don't want launch control to activate all the time if this is a street going car. I have attached a basic setup screen shot for you. All your other setup values you will need to set to suit your desired requirements. Regards Dave.

Hi MRRPM, What type of sensor are you using on the crank mag reluctor or hall effect. If you post your PCL file and explain exactly your crank tooth position relative to TDC and the crank sensor and the same for your sync or cam sensor relative to TDC. We should be able to work this out. Also do you own an oscilloscope. As for trigger tooth counts and errors etc. A basic introduction for you, the crank tooth count must be able to be devided into 360 degrees evenly, no decimal points. If you are using odd ball tooth counts with missing teeth or , strange sync tooth counts etc, then firmware must be written if possible for that particular tooth decoding to work correctly. For example your new chopper wheel has 36-2 teeth, 360 / 36= 10 but 36- 2 = 34 : 360 /34 = 10.588 So how can this work, the software algorithyms have been written to except this particular tooth count and recognise the missing teeth as tooth counts. This is why we set it up as missing tooth. We have to tell the ECU the number of teeth that SHOULD be there (36) and then we tell the ECU how many teeth are missing (2). Your sync sensor being hall effect, may have to trigger on the rising edge or the falling edge or on some setup the sync must trigger on the rising and falling edges. Having a good understanding of different trigger patterns and setups can be very complex I have been doing this stuff for 20 years now and every now and again I get caught out myself. However, I must say that setting up triggers custom wise ViPEC has been the easiest ECU to create a trigger pattern to suit custom wise physically and then make it work via the software, being so configurable. Regards Dave.

Hi all, I just thought I would add an updated schematic of this drawing that I did to explain the position of the restrictors a bit better. The red is the restrictor with a 0.8 to 1mm hole drilled through it. The standard drawing also used to show an adjustable restrictor, this is not required. SPECIAL NOTE, If you find you have excessive amounts of boost even with very low duty cycle values used in the wastegate duty table, drill the restrictor holes out 0.2 to 0.3 mm at a time until you gain good control Regards Dave.

Hi ,  I forgot to add that the technician who done the job said, damn the camshafts did move when i tensioned them. He had no idea that this type of damage could have happened so easily. Sadly he also never realised that if he removed the cam caps from the front working towards the rear that the camshaft would also snap into two pieces at the last bearing journal due to valve spring pressure. I commented to him that this is the importance of working from the centre outwards either side of the centre on assembally and disassembally. He put new valves into 6 and 5 and this time I installed the camshafts ,timing belt etc and showed him how to do it properly. Put all 6 pistons at roughly half stroke so that no pistons are at TDC. Bolt the head on and then install the camshafts. With all 6 cylinders away from TDC it doesn't matter if a cam rolls when tensioning the cam caps no valve will hit. I also showed him that you can hold the camshafts on there ting marks with spanners and slowly bring Number 1 back up to TDC and fit the timing belt. Regards Dave. Â

Hi iecku, Ok so you have a big single throttle body, DO NOT USE MY PCL file then. 1. I PERSONALLY DO NOT LIKE TO USE IRRIDIUM or any TYPE of fine electrode PLATINUM TIPPED sparkplug to try and fire a new install. They get wet with fuel and will very rarely fire correctly due to the minimal surface area of the tip of the centre electrode  to be able to allow a spark to jump to the ground strap. Use standard style plugs for first start up, centre electrode has greater surface area for spark to generate from. Plugs  4, 3, 2 and especially 1 are heavily carbon fouled. These style plugs will typically always foul during a new PCL setup. What generally happens is that the spark will fire  from the centre electrode and carbon track down the porcelain centre to the threaded end of the plug as it is an easier path to take to ground than to jump across a gap with a compressed mixture, especially when it is dense with excess fuel molecules. If you have tested your injector and ignition outputs, did you remove the coils and sparkplugs, ground the sparkplug and fire the ignition output to prove that the cylinders, coil and sparkplugs definitely fire. I notice you have SPLITFIRE COILS, excellent choice. The HKS ignition amplifier you are using is also an excellent piece of gear. I just want to know exactly what method you used to test the ignition outputs.. NOW NOT SAYING THIS IS DEFINATELY WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR CAR BUT. Sadly I have seen sparkplugs that look exactly like yours and the engine no matter what I did with the ECU presented the exact same symptoms. If you look at you sparkplug photos ,number  6 and 5 porcelain , you can see that fuel is definitely being injected ass there is fuel residue on the porcelain, but you get no fire. PLEASE CARRY OUT A COMPRESSION TEST. The GTR I tried to tune a few weeks ago, had his camshafts roll on him while doing the camshaft install. I got him to do a compression test and he had 0 psi compression on 5 and 6. While he was tensioning the camshaft bearing caps, he had the engine at TDC and no timing belt fitted. As he tensioned the cam caps the camshafts rolled and the valves hit the pistons and bent. The pure force of the valve spring acting on the cam causing roll back and hitting a piston is definitely enough to bend these valves. Now I am not saying this is definitely your problem, however you have very similar symptoms, especially when reading the sparkplugs. Kind Regards Dave.

Hi, for some reason my laptop has issues with LINK files at present.. I can not open the log file. Anyway, I have created a new PCL file for you, In the new PCL file I have also created a PC LOG SETUP for data logging for tuning purposes. . Make sure you recalibrate the TPS and MAP sensors, make sure you press F4 and store to the ECU. I asked some important questions previously, regarding the setup of your engine, but never really got the responses I required For example a VERY IMPORTANT one was regarding the inlet plenum and throttle body setup.  You state you are using a Hypertune manifold, does this use a single throttle body or does it still use the standard 6 throttle blades. If you are using the standard throttle 6 x throttle blade setup with 272 deg camshafts you would have had close to 100 Kpa map which is equal to 0 IN/HG. Your main fuel table was set up with MAP as the Y axis, so at idle with close to 100 Kpa you would have been running rich due to lack of vacuum. I am only assuming this as I asked the questions previously and got no response. So anyway taking a WILD guess I assume you still have the 6 x standard throttle blades and are just running the Hypertune plenum. I have created a whole new PCL file for you to try. This file is based on the engine still running on the stock 6 throttle blades. If you don't have the 6 throttle blades and are running a big single throttle body don't even bother loading the file. Kindly answer my previous questions so we know exactly what we are dealing with here, so we can offer better help. After allof this rich running etc, istrongly advise removing the sparkplugs and cleaning them or replacing them. Turn the FUEL CONFIGURATION FROM SEQUENTIAL TO OFF or disconnect the injectors.. Crank the engine over with the sparkplugs out, disconnect the coils, crank the engine and expel the excess fuel from the cylinders. Reconnect the injectors or turn the fuel back on from off to sequential. Try to start the engine using small throttle openings like 5% or so, crank the engine and adjust the fuel master until it fires. What fuel pressure are you running.. Anyway give it a go and let me know how you go. When cranking and trying to get the engine running press F8 to manually start the PC LOGGER and press F8 when finished to save the PC LOG of trying to start the engine. Regards Dave.

Hi Josh, Yes this is possible. Just setup to AN VOLT INPUTS as widebands/ LAMBDA 1 and LAMBDA 2 and setup you AFR/LAMBDA TARGET table. When you data log to keep it simple and clear set up 1 group up as Lambda 1/AFR and Target Lambda /AFR Set up the second as Lambda 2/AFR and Target Lambda /AFR. You need to have your injectors wired upas sequential obviously. You then go to the fuel tab and go to Individual Fuel trim. I have attached 2 examples of how this can be done. The CAL 4 file is just a created CAL don't use those values. Regards Dave.

Hi Paul, I am only going by the help file PNP vehicle specific settings. I have just checked the other models and it appears that your digital inputs are setup as an EVO 9, I have no idea what is happening here other than your car had had an EVO 9 engine upgrade. The EVO 9 engine is the only one showing the engine to have VCT. If you start the engine with your laptop connected and hit the F12 key to bring up RUNTIME VALUES. Click on the digital inputs tab and check DI3 is changing speed wise as you drive the car. I have modified your PCL file and added DI3 SPEED to your PC LOG FILE LIST. Load this PCL file and create a new gauge on one of your page layouts, DI3 SPEED, if you want to watch the speed on your laptop. Open your log file and see if speed has logged. I made my comments based on the fact you stated the vehicle is an EVO 8 , EVO 4 to 8 have the same DI setup. Let me know how you go. PLEASE UPDATE YOUR FIRMWARE TO 4.9.9 to run this PCL FILE. Regards Dave. evo 8 with DI 3 SPEED added to logging.pcl

Hi, going by the EVO PNP HELP FILE page all of your Digital Inputs are setup incorrectly. The HELP FILE STATES THE FOLLOWING: DI 1 = Ignition switch DI 2 = Start signal DI 3 = I/C SPRAY switch manual DI 4 = Vehicle speed DI 5 = I/C Spray switch auto. DI 6 = A/C Request. To have Knock Control it must be turned on, but you will require a digital knock interface for the V44. Knock control is made active and setup under the KNOCK CONTROL tab under the ECU Settings tab. Your ECU is also running 4.9.1 firmware, you should update it to the current 4.9.9 firmware. Setup as i have described and see if you issues are resolved. As for your idle speed issues you will require an experienced tuner to get this correct, by all means give it a go if you feel you have an understanding on how this works, however if not leave for an expert. Regards Dave.

Hi , I just reread your initial post where you have posted that you have 2100 cc injectors. My appolagies , I just looked at the PCL file and noted that you had 500 cc injectors selected under your configuration. You need to also change the injector cc's accordingly. Trust the LINK widest slot calculation, use only that value. But this value will be obtained when you enter the trigger set up and activate the Test ECCS SYNC. Make sure you turn the fuel injectors OFF or disconnect them while doing this test. You do not want the engine to fire or partially fire while in this test mode. I would put the fuel master back at 6 and have o% trim for initial start. You state you are using a Hypertune plenum, is it a plenum only or does it have a single throttle body on it also, or is it just the plenum and you are still using stock 6 x GTR throttle blades. With 272 deg camshafts, either way it is probably advisable to use TPS as your Y AXIS on your MAIN FUEL TABLE, FUEL TABLE 1. Regards Dave.

Hi again, If you are running the stock intake system, you also need to set the fuel main table up with TPS as the Y axis, you currently have it set to MAP. Regards Dave

Hi there ,  I have had a quick look at your PCL file, firstly under the CONFIGURATION setup you have the engine displacement at 65535 cc, it should be 3200 cc if you are running 3.2 litre setup. You have fuel master set at 4 ms and you are running a trim of -25 %, very unusual especially considering you are only using 500 cc injectors, unless you are running 100 psi fuel pressure. Did you actually activate the TEST ECCS SYNC or did you just leave it at default. I always activate this and let the ECU count the widest slot itself. Under Calibrate Triggers, I have never seen an RB engine set at a Trigger Offset of 280 deg. Is your cam timing correct. When testing the timing etc, DO NOT USE THE TIMING LOOP at the back of the head or the wiring going to coil 1, you will end up with inaccurate timing. I always remove number 1 coil and fit a HT lead between the coil and the sparkplug. Set cc's to 3200, put fuel master at 7 put the trim back to 0. Carry out the Triggers setup correctly using the sparkplug lead method I mentioned. Try to recalibrate and test from there. Regards Dave.

Hi, OK you are using a good boost solenoid, exactly what I use, best known as a MAC VALVE. Please setup the MAC VALVE as per the attached plumbing schematic I have supplied. However BEFORE ANYTHING CAN HAPPEN, I need you to connect the hose from the compressor source directly to the wastegate and monitor when the boost begins to drop. It is very important that I know the standard wastegate spring CRACK pressure without any influences, just boost directly to the wastegate. Once this is done then hook up the wastegate solenoid. Do not worry about using the adjustable bleed valve. On the T piece ( I use brass ones) the end that is facing the boost source needs to be brazed up and drill a 0.8 to 1 mm hole in it. (the same end that the adjustable restrictor would be normally). Also check that the outlet from the compressor housing also has a restriction of equal size to it. For example a lot of compressor housing fittings are around 3.5 to 4 mm ID, this is too large and needs to be reduced back to at least 1 mm. Do not blank off ports 2 and 3. Reduce the auxillary output frequency to 20 Hz. I have started to create another PCL file for you, once I know the wastegate crack off pressure and the exhaust back pressure values. Regards Dave.