Dave Kriedeman

I need id and password 4 digit code.

Sorry, I have no idea as i live in Australia. If you have WIFI internet and download Teamviewer I can log into your computer and try sort it for you. \Regards Dave.

Jono, if you wire the fans as per my diagram set the polarity to low. Regards Dave.

Hi Jono, The photo is showing 4 ballast resistors which indicates to me that your ECU is running low impedance injectors. Do not remove these resistors or injector driver damage may occur to your ECU. Regards Dave.

Hi Jono, I have attached another wiring schematic for a different vehicle I did for another customer. Ignore the ECU connector and pin numbers but study the relay wiring setup. It is highly important that the positive side of the relay coil is powered only when the ignition is turned on, via the ignition switch. Sometimes a diode is required to stop back EMF from the fan keeping the relay active. Regards Dave.

Hi Sutkale, No problems for keeping an eye on your post. I forgot that the error counter only climbed during low rpm, with quick rev rate. ARE YOU SHARING TRIGGER 1 SIGNAL WITH ANOTHER ECU OR DEVICE. Can you please load the attached PCL file into your ECU, It is loaded with a PC data log setup I wish to check and I have also changed your off boost timing and just interpolated the lower MAP value areas to be less aggressive . I really need to know about sharing trigger 1 with any other device . I also need you to reset your computer statistics, before the log run. I want you to start the engine and let it warm up, (NOTE LOGGER WILL ACTIVATE AT 1100 RPM),If cold start idle speed is above this please set to a higher trigger speed or activate the logger manually. I want you to rev the engine in neautral and also take for a short drive and give it some in 1st and 2nd gear. I want you to then save the log file as DAVES LOG, I want you to leave the engine running and then hit F2 and save the PCL FILE as DAVES RUN. You must hit F2 while the engine is running so we can capture the idling data as well as error codes and trigger error counter statistics etc. Your current file shows no trigger error counts etc. If you can please try the above and post the new PCL, hit F2 and save while engine is running and also post the data log. Thanks Regards Dave. Volvo_GarretGTX_TIMING.pcl

Hi Sutkale, just an observation, you are running individual fuel trim on 4 cylinders. Cylinders 1 and 2 have 0% trim. Cylinders 3 and 4 have 1% trim. Cylinder 1 Y axis is set to MGP (MAP) Cylinders 2,3 and 4 Y axis are set to TP MAIN. I personally would have also run a smaller FUEL MASTER and achieved higher fuel table numbers. Your fuel table numbers max out only in the 40 range, some say it doesn't matter but I like to have a larger number for what I believe leads to better injector control/operation especially when running large cc injectors. 4D Fuel Mode is set to ON/ ALWAYS ON, however the table is full of 0's so I take it you haven't tried to tune this due to your trigger error. You have 4D fuel activated but no Dual Ignition or 4 or 5 D ignition tables setup. Are you running a CDI unit as I notice your dwell table is set to a flat 1 ms. The above will have no effect on your trigger 1 issue, these are just observations I have made, to be sure you are aware of them. Looking at your trigger 1 arming threshold values they appear to be set far to low, I would raise the trigger arming voltages to at least half of the measured voltage at that given rpm, especially when dealing with what appears to be a very sensitive mag reluctor. Also how big is the air gap between the tooth of the trigger wheel and your sensor and are all of the tooth profiles exactly the same. Also by chance are you sharing the trigger 1 signal with the factory ECU or similar to make the Tacho work or BEM stay functioning, if so you may require a pull-up resistor. Regards Dave.

Hi Simon, what wideband meter are you using to tune your AFR with. Regards Dave.

Hi Steve, the only real draw back will be the inability to individually trim the ignition timing per cylinder and if you use knock control you will have to use group control not individual knock control, which is fine. So in a nut shell, go for it. Regards Dave.

Sorry web site is www.protuningcairns.com Regards Dave.

Hi PRO CAR GARAGE, at your request my email is [email protected] website is protuningcairns.com  (still under construction). Regards Dave.

Hi Smashing, If you check the pin outs for your ECU you have the following, 4 INJECTOR OUTPUTS 2 IGNITON OUTPUTS 8 AUX OUTPUTS 2 SPARE AUX IGNITION OUTPUTS 4 SPARE AUX INJECTOR OUTPUTS 4 ONBOARD ANALOGUE VOLT INPUTS 2 EXPANSION ANALOGUE VOLT INPUTS 2 ONBOARD ANALOGUE TEMP INPUTS 1 EXPANSION ANALOGUE TEMP INPUT 4 ONBOARD DIGITAL INPUTS 2 EXPANSION CONNECTOR DIGITAL INPUTS 1 ONBOARD KNOCK SENSOR. Remember Analogue volt inputs can be used as analogue temp inputs with the use of a resistor in the circuit. Not sure if this was the info you were after. Regards Dave.

Your trigger 2 scope trace seems to be a lot cleaner, even though not going fully to 0 volt it only drops to 0.33 volts, but the little interference spikes etc in the first trace have gone. Did you get to check all of your earths, we are chasing as close to 0 ohms as possible and under 1 volt to be a good earth. Can you also please post your PCL file. Regards Dave.

Hi Max, can you please post your current PCL file and your sensor information for the new engine Trigger 1 = 36 -1= mag or hall effect Trigger 2 = 1 = mag or hall effect. Sequential fuel and ignition or sequential fuel, wasted spark etc. That way Simon or myself can possibly help you out. Regards Dave.

Hi, With regards to auto or QUICKTUNING the engine in a boat, I have been tuning race boats for approx. 6 years now and have successfully AUTO/QUICK Tuned engines to a point. I use a combination of ballast and leg trim to load the engine as well as gear if you run a gearbox. Regards Dave.

Hi , I will see if Simon can reset your upload quota. Regards Dave.

Hi, just to confirm are your sensors hall effect 3 wire or magnetic reluctor 2 wire. Regards Dave

Hi, have you set the arming volt to roughly half the actual trigger voltage. I would use the pico scope to measure the actual trigger voltages and then set the arming table to roughly 50% of the measured voltage With the battery in the boot, make sure you have a good chassis earth and also at the block. Use ohms and volts to check your earths. Make sure your ECU earths go to the engine block? Regards Dave

Your thoughts with the ground offsets etc are spot on. As for the use of the AEM unit I am unsure, it is all dependant on whether they will supply the CAB protocol to LINK or not. Considering you have a G4+ if you are able to program CAN there is no reason you can't create the CAN comms to work with the AEM if the appropriate info is forwarded. Regards Dave.,

Hi Jono, Â give me some time and I will go through and recheck your file setup, please confirm definitely what I am dealing with here, due to multiple post I am confused as to what the engine/car is actually. Looking at the current FUEL and Ignition tables look shocking so I assume these are not the tuned values. Regards Dave.

No offence jono, but can you please just keep 1 thread going, multiple threads becomes confusing, if you keep all of you problems under 1 thread it is easier to keep track off. Unless we have 5 jono's Regards Dave.

Hi jono, Is you radiator fan staying on or your a/con condenser fan. Either way you need to check the relay that controls the fan that is staying on, make sure the coil positive of the relay winding is turning off ( no voltage). As for the tune files (pcl) files, (now I can see them thank to SIMON, YAH) It appears you need to calibrate the TPS and MAP sensors. Without this done the engine will run bad. Regards Dave.

Jono, If you have loaded the file I sent you and you have errors like that, you either have multiple sensor issues or a wiring problem, earthing etc. Can you post a screen shot of the ECU status. May I also recommend you connect your laptop to the ECU turn the ignition on and one by one disconnect all of your sensors, check the laptop screen under runtime values ANALOGUE INPUTS, keep unplugging and check to see if the errors go away after disconnecting a certain sensor or plug. I have an issue with my laptop files at present and cant open your other two files you posted. Regards Dave.

Hi Jono, on your attached screen shot , the second item down says POLARITY. Double click on the setting LOW and then select HIGH. Regards Dave.

Hi Sutkale, What type of engine is it. What RPM is screen shot 1 of trigger 1 taken at, curious as it has a -4.15 volts to +4.15 volts peak to peak sine wave. Compared to -11.12 volts to + 12.44 volts peak to peak sine wave on trigger 1 screen shot 2 taken at 6500- 7000rpm. Also compare your peak to peak voltages for trigger 1 on screen shot 1 and 2 they vary in peak to peak voltages for each pulse, I don't believe this would be an issue and may have something to do with your changing of filter rates coupled with rpm change. What trigger arming voltages are you using. Regards Dave.