essb00

When your engine is running, you would want to have the smallest ground loop to the power source -- which is the alternator (unless your engine runs without one), which is why it is recommended to have the grounds connected on the engine block/cylinder head. Smaller ground loop means minimal chances that other accessory loads would be having to share the same ground (having more resistance) to the power source. More grounds, less resistance. Then there is less chance the ECU would be picking electromagnetic interference from ignition system. If you have the ECU grounds connected to battery negative, it would still have to share the ground wire from the battery negative to engine block with other accessories.

If you use G1 for Trigger 2 instead of G2, then you will need to have the 360° offset...

During a combustion cycle (720°), the injector is open for a % of the total cycle time. That's referred to as injector duty cycle. Injector duty cycle is affected by engine speed - where an injector pulse width will appear as high duty cycle at higher rpm. You actually don't want to get higher than 80% injector duty cycle - as it would mean your injector would almost not close.

If you would watch sushpants' video about his tach fix, the problem with some tach adapters is that they seem to lose enough duty cycle above 6k rpm... The best fix is still the resistor mod (this I have also done myself with 80s/90s analog Toyota tach). Though I'm not sure how the tach circuitry is with the digital AE86 gauge cluster. https://youtu.be/y2TRMWldaQA

You've got similar issues with @Sushpants He's got it solved. Check out his thread (watch the video link he posted).

...to stop the intake backfiring on ignition on.

Hi... Since "Stop Switch" is 100% fuel & ignition cut, would something like this work? ...or maybe the "Anti Theft"?

If you connected the G1 instead of G2 for Trig 2, you'd need to have 360° Trigger Offset (+/- to what the timing light says for your set base timing calibration).

Which one did you connect to Trig 2? G1 or G2? I connected Trig 2 to G2 (G1 not connected). Have you got it firing up, or even just cough? Here's my starting trigger scope. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmxXrCms2e-0sOknldCZyNJXi45b-X0S/view?usp=sharing

@koracingGreat idea. Thanks. I've just made one.

@koracing I've just bumped the Trig 2 arming to 0.4v as I saw quite a lot of noise from trigger scope during starting. The cranking ignition angle as I understood should have been pulled from the ignition table, so I am unsure why it seem to get the ignition idle target 23° instead. Warm idle is already tuned (quick tune, with some point adjustments I manually made), maybe my previous log was just not long enough and it has not stabilized yet. It starts quite easily without a miss after being left sitting for a while (I really couldn't say cold when it is sitting 30°C ) @Adamw I've just dialed the VE lower in the cranking cells you have marked. I guess I'll need to do more trials (hopefully less errors). Maybe there's a chance engineering can add a 'flood clear' option? With conditions like while cranking whenever you press the throttle more than a set percentage, it will turn off injection & ignition. Just a wish.... Revised tune file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bsBKegcLY1a6ppx920cVfkmJcQmnNSFz/view?usp=sharing Log - Cold start to warm https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V1k5nbQgS1rzTy6Gwv-XB8sV2lyu2OEN/view?usp=sharing Log - Warm start https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RuGHKv0gIJOlmw6V-fA78KlL0nZBiJc8/view?usp=sharing

Quite strange that I can't replicate the hard starting now while logging. It has been happening the past days. I'll get back to this once I got something logged. Edit: Got one logged. Trigger errors appear whenever I release the start button. I'll also try to capture trigger scope whenever I catch it happening again. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GsUwhFhxYjk_g7hKasJRN4OGG2lPYqJg/view?usp=sharing

Good day, Cold start fires up easily (though lowest we get is +20°C ambient). Starting warm (ECT above 60°C) however, the engine is hard starting/flooding. I tried reducing the First Crank Prime down to 50% but still flooding. Engine by the way is 4A-GE 16V small port. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oA9wwDWNHeQtW8GrBXH81ak-qqBaUEui/view?usp=sharing

Hi @Adamw Just to let you know, since I updated to the latest firmware 6.19.37, the hiccups has not recurred yet. I have not changed anything other than update PCLink software and update ECU firmware. ...so it seemed that the hiccups I was having were caused by some sort of bug in the last firmware. https://drive.google.com/file/d/17xGlqKqUqD7hvB8ZJjuTrurAxadN_L_R/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S-yKHXDysRuVF6izpmLn-6kmsAxg4J-h/view?usp=sharing

The status of the 'unknown USB device' does not change whenever I plug in/out the USB from the ECU... I've also have tried the procedure on the article you have provided on the link, and it didn't help either.

I guess it is not just about the 'Ports (COM & LPT)' not showing in Device Manager... I also don't get any device plug-in notification sound whenever I connect the USB cable from the ECU. So having to manually add the COM port does not help either. The option to enable/disable 'Ports' is no longer available in UEFI only BIOS. *Hidden devices shown on screenshot.

Turn on the DI 1 Pull-up resistor

I seem to be having the same problem with my new laptop... My old laptop and my wife's laptop both work fine. *Screenshot is from my new laptop's device manager. 'Ports (COM & LPT)' does not show (ECU is connected to USB).

Here, the alternator is disconnected (running solely on battery power) - there is no noticeable voltage dip but still having that hiccup though less noticeable as the RPM is higher.

On this attached time plot, the battery voltage suddenly dipped and the injector duty cycle momentarily followed suit. The MAP increased as the engine speed dropped. I tried to change the connection of the wire main relay supplying power for the ECU & related ancillaries (injectors/igniter/ignition coil/IACV/lambda controller) but it still has the hiccup. The voltage from the distribution block does not seem to dip as such. I also have tried your recommendation to temporarily remove the Mallory Hyfire 6EZL and just use the stock ignition coil --- still having the hiccups only when AC is on.

I finally got to capture the idle hiccups whenever aircon is on. If you'd notice on the log, the injector duty cycle suddenly dips right after the batt voltage dips. There are no recorded trigger error(s). Any more ideas @Adamw? Thanks.

Thanks... That's why.... I have now turned off IAT Fuel Correction.

Good day, It seems that the recommendation -4% per 10°C rise from 20°C is too much as IAT temp in city traffic of tropical regions easily shoots upwards of 70°C. My VE table getting more than 100 even at partial throttle, and CLL keeps getting max clamp not reaching target AFR. What values should I instead use in IAT fuel trim table?

I have wired headlight switch and AC blowers switch as ELS (electrical load switch) to GP Idle Offset in Idle Speed Control. Now idle does not dip anymore after throttle is released.

Confirmed, it was the AC switch. I had it fixed, now AC request is stable. I had some more fine adjustments, idle seems to be stable now both AC on & off. Only thing though is while driving, the idle dips after throttle release <-- this I need to log. Test7.pclx PC Datalog - 2020-10-4 2;52;36 pm.llgx