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Yes, it would cause boost leak, that's why you are supposed to draw air for ISC valve from the plumbing before throttle body. Idle position while driving is min clamp plus all offsets. That's needed so that idle will be easily resumed once lockout conditions are out. You're supposed to have min clamp % as you idle on normal operating temp without all offsets, without heavy electrical loads. Follow the open loop idle speed control tuning procedure on help file. When open loop is quite tuned smoothly as close as possible to target idle, then you can shift to closed loop.

Are you sure your ISC is connected to Inj 7, not Inj 5?

Change Aux Fuel # 7 Active State to 'Low', then try test again.

Your idle speed control is not tuned at all. Follow the Open Loop ISC tuning procedure, then Closed Loop ISC procedure on the help file under G4X ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control.

0 to 20 kPa MAP = ignition timing to -20 to -15 BTDC.

On the contrary, on deceleration regions of your fuel/ignition tables should have rich AFR and retarded ignition timing to have pops & bangs.

Use a DI as Table Activation for the 4D/5D table.

@mike2016 To make your speedo signal useable, try making this simple passive RC low pass filter I made (you might have to change the resistor & capacitor values to suit your application).

You should remove/bypass the ballast resistor - as it will lessen the drive current onto the high impedance coils. It will 'slow' the opening of the injector..

"Shield/GND" is same as sensor ground, mostly used for the trigger 1 & 2 wires.

You have to change one resistor in the tachometer PCB (the resistor for tach signal input). You can follow @Sushpants guide here on this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2TRMWldaQA&t=241s

An Volt

ECU is using the Ignition Idle Target (fixed) during startup sequence, then use Idle Ignition Control as part of Idle Actuator control PID to correct small deviations from target idle deadband.

- your engine has VR (variable reluctor) CAS. Only ground and signal wires - no +12V supply needed. - if it is only 1 wire, it already has the +5V supply from the stock gauge cluster. You only need to tap it onto the signal wire. If gauge cluster of your st204 otherwise don't have the pressure gauge (the original car where your 3S-GE was from surely had it), then you will be having to wire +5V with a pull-up resistor to the Link ECU. Consult the Link ECU Online Manual --- "Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring" for more information.

I have made a passive RC low pass filter (diagram below) for the GP Speed 1 input, made a math block av (as GP Speed 2), and had been assigned to both Driven & Driving Wheel Speed. Wheel speed readings now seem useable - I just need to find the correct calibration (I have to compare by GPS). Tune: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CIfhH23qxXs6FufS1ifCAT2hXVko3ZIU/view?usp=sharing Log https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_HutvefwpZH6lMlfT20M7qJPg71ZHptw/view?usp=sharing @Adamw I know I read somewhere before where you mentioned the DI falling voltage to be considered by the ECU, but I can't seem to find it anymore. Should it falling below 1.0v or 1.5v? I just want to make sure so I can try to make fine adjustments on the frequency cut-off by changing the values of the resistor or capacitor.

DI 2 assigned to GP Speed 1, then GP Speed 1 assigned to both Driven & Driving Wheel Speed. I'm getting severe fluctuations on the speed readings - reaching 5000+ km/hr. In between the big fluctuations, smaller ones I can probably filter by using Math function (average) - but the big fluctuations would still affect the computed average. Is there a way to filter ridiculously high frequencies being picked up by the DI? I don't have an oscilloscope to confirm at what frequencies the big fluctuations come at. I tried grounding the speed sensor on different locations. I even used shielded cable which made no difference. On the log, I'm using a reed switch speed sensor from gauge cluster (speedo gauge driven by cable). I also have tried to use a magnetic/hall effect sensor with magnets placed on propeller shaft. Both of them pick up the same high frequency noise. Tune: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PdrflxK3JTEZHSuwEj50PTJNHILF5YVi/view?usp=sharing Log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BBte-Og8anpc4ToLCXAq1oULVYd5c1zA/view?usp=sharing *vehicle on jack stands - reason why TPS % seems low. Maybe I'll try to make a simple low pass filter circuit with parts I got at home.

@Calvotech same I encountered with my newer laptop. Solution I found was to use a USB hub.

To follow up on this one. I was able to make my newer laptop connect to the ECU --- using a USB hub - either one on the picture below works (USB-C to USB-A hub or USB-A to USB-A hub). I'm just puzzled why the ECU is not getting detected when directly connected to the laptop's USB port.

Dead time data should have been supplied when you bought the injectors new. If not, then even just try to search for the injector data from manufacturer's webpage. Better sort out the issue with the MAP sensor first (wait for your ordered sensor), otherwise all settings you change now will not do any good.

Did you enter the proper dead time values (from manufacturer) of the new injector? Do a MAP sensor calibration --- your MAP is showing 50kPa while engine not running --- that is having a big influence with the fuel table. BAP & MAP values should be ideally the same while engine is not running.

Increase the "Master Fuel" value from 4 ms to say maybe 6 ms, then put your table values back to last values (when you still got the 2000cc injectors)...

- You have the 0 values on your warm up enrichment table. See sample values below (you need to adjust depending how your engine runs on such temps). - You may be needing to also make adjustments on your Crank Enrichment Table and Post Start Enrichment Table. The idea is to make make the transitions smooth from crank enrichment to post start enrichment to warm up enrichment table. - Your Closed Loop Lambda ECT lockout seem to low at 40°C --- this will interfere with warm up enrichment -- (try ECT lockout at 70°C)

Close PCLink Delete the two files under the folder "C:\Users\[USERNAME]\AppData\Roaming\PCLink" DefaultParameterConfig.rtcr Options2.xml *[USERNAME] is your Windows login. Then open PCLink again.

The EBC/ICV/etc. being driven to low would back feed to the ECU's internal flywheel diode when the ignition switch is (or in you case main relay) is opened. See the orange trace in the diagram. You can actually even just supply everything in the sub-relay via the main relay so everything surely turns off with the ignition switch and it is simplified with only 1 relay (ECU itself does not take too much current anyway).

If you set it to 3D, you will be able to change the X & Y axis parameters. Put Batt Voltage on X axis, then put voltages as what's on FIC data sheet. ...then just leave Y axis parameter as 'none'. ...then enter the data. See example below. Do the same for Injector Short Pulse Width Adder Table.