essb00

@TC951 Diodes have a considerable voltage drop. The voltage reaching ECU must as much as possible be the same as the voltage reaching injectors, coils. etc. - for correction of injector dead time, ignition coil dwell, etc.

maybe change 7v to 6ms --- though it does not really matter - most starters would not be able to turn at that voltage.

Those seem too much for those coils. Try this. 8V 5.5 9V 5.0 10V 4.5 11V 4.0 12V 3.5 13V 3.0 14V 2.5 15V 2.0

Engine dies after start-up because of 100% fuel cut and 100% ignition cut according to your logs. Check/correct your 'Error value' and the 'Calibration' in the IAT settings.

What type of idle actuator and idle mode (closed/open loop?)? Try adding Dashpot Offset (plus hold time & decay time)...

I just re-read @arbartz95 original post, I'm also using a Honeywell fuel pressure sensor (only mine is 0-100psi). With the sensor removed from the fuel rail, reading is 0. Reading with the pump running on my stock FPR, around 310kPa -- which is about the same on mechanical gauge I connected temporarily to confirm the fuel pressure. Now I've also gotten confused if I also need to use the same math block.

The way I understood it, the ECU is using differential fuel pressure for the calculation of VE values. From the help file: "FP Sensor - For use on a fuel system that contains a sensor that measures the pressure in the fuel rail. Requires that the ECU has access to the correctly configured fuel pressure sensor and MAP sensor. To use this mode, the Base Fuel Pressure and Injector Rated Fuel Pressure settings must be correct. Only this mode supports a rising rate regulator." Your unreasonably high VE table values must be because of some other factors, not the fuel pressure.

Any reason why your dwell control table is Batt Voltage vs MGP? Typically it is Batt Voltage vs Engine Speed (RPM) It could be that the tiny fluctuations on MGP (not logged due to filtering, & PC logging limited to 40Hz or ECU logging limited to 100Hz) are causing those dwell time dips. Better change it to Batt Voltage vs Engine Speed (RPM).

Your lambda is oscillating (going too lean) because of the warm up enrichment table being based on MAP... Try changing the Y axis of your warm up enrichment table to TPS instead. Also your post start decay time table values seem to long. Try 0 second on all so that cold start would transition immediately to warm up enrichment. ...Also try increasing your master fuel a little bit.

It is an issue with Windows scaling... Change it to 100%, it will look ok. Nothing can be done within PCLink to correct that.

MRP used to have a patch harness for 4A-GE 16V listed in their webpage (I almost got that one, but I opted to do full wire-in instead). Maybe if you get in touch with them, they'd still be able to get you one. Edit: They still have the 16V patch harness (select on drop down) packaged with AtomX (they seem to have old pictures of G4+, but I think they're G4X -- better confirm with them). https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4age-link-atom-ii-g4-patch-harness/ ...though I suggest you get a MonsoonX instead of AtomX. The built-in MAP sensor and additional aux in/out of the MonsoonX are well worth it.

Sorry, I got it mixed up in my head with other Toyotas... 3S-GE has got main & sub TPS... You can just use VTA, or you can use both VTA & VTA2 (you'll then need two analog inputs).

For TPS, you'll have to leave the IDL wire not connected (as it is not needed). You can have the TPS closed/open positions calibrated, and TPS lockout set on idle control settings.

You connected the USB cable from ECU to Android unit directly? It won't work in G4X (no serial stream). You need to have it connected via USB to CAN adapter. https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8637-introducing-realdash-a-dashboard-app-for-android-windows/page/9/#comments

It is an issue with Windows scaling... Change it to 100%, it will look ok.

Your idle overshoots because of too high PID values. Try the following (in the screenshot). *You also need to change the Idle Speed Control Max Clamp (you may need this a little bit higher) & Min Clamp (you may need this lower) accordingly. The idle base position values should be adjusted when AC off.

Thanks for the clarification.

If nothing is selected onto DI4, does Pin 6 default to being knock input? I can't seem to find in Knock Setup how to select knock input.

What's your Torque Reduction/Introduction Time and Ignition Retard? You can smoothen it out by playing with those two.

According to wiring diagram, knock sensor input for MonsoonX (version 3 and newer) is shared with DI4 at Pin 6... I have not tried to connect mine yet though. @Adamw Since knock input is shared with DI4 on Pin 6, would it be possible to use DI4 & knock input at the same time? I am currently using DI4 (active state low), so am am assuming knock signal would then be 'grounded' - which then says I cannot use both at the same time. Pls confirm.

Yes, you can use that. There's really nothing electronic inside of it. Just a solenoid coil - which is ECU controlled by pulse width modulation.

Since you're on open loop idle speed control, it is just depending on your idle base position table. It probably starts with the help of the startup offset table but when it has decayed, it will only have the idle base position which is too low to sustain cold idle. Try to add the values on your startup offset table to your idle base position table. You could also try to change it to closed loop, set "idle actuator"---> "integral gain" to around 0.5."

Take out cyl#1 COP & spark plug, then wrap a wire around the spark plug threads with one end of the wire connected to ground. Put the timing light pickup on the wire.

It should be set "Always On"... When set to "Off", "Engine Kill" (100% fuel and ignition cut) is applied. Thus, no start.

I have been waiting since last year for 14point7 to have stocks of Spartan 3 ADV (CAN), but until now still they don't have stocks - so for now I settled with a Spartan 2 LC (analog). The AEM X series UEGO does have CAN (via what they call AEMnet), and also still have 0-5V analog.