kaptainballistik

Ahh, Switch to the Copper core Plugs until you get it tuned, Even the short copper plugs meant for the early heads work ok. How much Carbon fouling do you have?

Bear with me here... What Heads do you have, and what spark plugs?

Did you remove the CAS Trigger at any time? (The Keyway in the crank stops you getting the Pulley wrong!) I Think you can put them at 180 Deg out (if the aircon pulley rivets are removed) You can figure out TDC from the rear counterweight position.. Which gives you the keyway position, which you then can figure out where the front key way should be, then the TDC form looking at an old pulley. I cant remember the phasing as I just look at one of my old cranks!

I had the issue but the latest firmware sorted it.. It was also my Lenovo Laptop that did it....Apparently that was a known issue. I also make sure I save then disconnect the laptop before shutting the car down if I've changed anything! I haven't had the issue since...

For the DI, what's the maximum HZ it can take? ( Something in the back of my head says 500hz)

Afternoon! So on today's "why do I do this to myself" I have decided to switch the car from 1050 cc injectors to 1200.cc Long story, Swear words were uttered about leaking injectors.... Anyway.. And Ill note I'm coming from an Autronic where you play with the magical multiplier table to tweak for new injectors...... So besides the usual correction tables, dead times ect..( All sorted) is there a suggested % to tweak the Main fuel map when you have a 12.6% change in injector flow to give you a rough setup again? or is there somewhere else to fudge it? Is that what the fudge factor is used for? Yeah, its been an .. interesting day...... (Mind you, I now have a dodgy fuel flow test rig )

Maybe silly question..... Old or new motor?

You just made my day! I'll get the latest map off the thing!

Hey, Has anyone attempted configuring the Link to talk to a Subaru CanBus Steering angle sensor... or any canbus steering wheel sensor? I'm Presuming no.. but I better ask first! (Its a perversion of the laws of Automotive nature thing....I gots my reasons, its pretty evil... )

That makes sense, I am unlikely to use anything but e85.. Which normally works out as e82-3 anyway!

I'm Plagiarising the post referenced as below.... Obviously (as mentioned) The car needs to have the fuel charge Cooling coeff set "correctly" but ATM the car is going to be driving up and down a mates driveway to make sure the car hasn't got a pile of issues. Last dyno run the subersible fuel hose had ballooned and tore about an hour in. Everything on this car is modified in some way so its a whole world of pain ! And as mentioned, you can't exactly take the car out on the street as you will draw a lot of unwanted attention and its also the favourite road for the local police to shortcut on the way back to the station. Rallycars........

But is it best practice to configure the car to have the e100 configuration then let the ECU/Flex sensor sort it out? ( I understand exactly what you mean however... ex-chemist.. Try getting perfectly "dry" ethanol... its not easy!) And does a cooling coeff of 63 Deg for e85 sound way too high? (Only number that's come up with some digging) Obviously you set this on the dyno, But for this situation its a thumbnail in tar tune to prove everything in the car works.

Well, I Guessed the 'best ethanol blend I would get was e95 (5% water..) so I've stuck that density number in. Or should I start with presuming I can get 100% pure ethanol? I'm presuming the OOTB corrections are good enough to calculate the "true" fuel density based on the flex sensor. Either way.. Damn thing Idles smoothly! Cold start is a bit cranky however, So I'll now go try turning on the Warm up enrichment table 2 and giving that a tweak. Any advised starting guesses for the charge cooling coefficient for e85?

Honestly? I don’t know… so I’ll give 9.75 a shot! I’ll give that Density a crack.

Preface.. the ECU in my car has been initially setup by someone who knows this stuff, Dual maps are configured but E85 hasn't been looked at..... I'm trying to sort the car enough so the Dyno time is actually used for tuning, not trying to figure out things like is the fuel system pulling air, You cant really take an unregoed AWD BRZ Rallczar with a 3 inch exhaust for a rip up the street without drawing a HUGE amount of attention! And the car only needs to run 98 when in storage, So I would rather concentrate on e85 being tuned and 98 can be rough as guts/Extrapolated back. The car likes fouling Plug 2. But its got decent compression so that may just be a sticky injector. Or leprechauns in the fuel system, or I'm just lucky... So, as I'm a ham fisted Luddite and sick of my Deshdontidle 1200cc injectors being pigs at Idle on 98...whilst high on eggnog I just thought stuffit... Try a Tank of e85. Damn thing starts and actually sorta idles when it was warming up. It'll die at Idle when at operating temp, but it starts well enough and when in the startup enrichment phase its actually OK. which tells me to throw fuel at it a bit.. Bit of throttle keeps it running ( DBW goes to 10% at idle to try to keep it running, It eventually splutters out) Starts hot, starts cold, I'll take that fluke....and Flex sensor doing flex sensor things. Which brings me to the Multi fuel setup page... Does that look ballpark right for the Density for Pump e85 (United's finest....) and is the the cooling coefficient sorta ok? ( Injector flow is wrong... or am I missing something? is it the dirty way to correct for fuel mixture without redoing a map like you do on a Autronic.....) It needs about 5%-10 more fuel to make it Idle by the looks of it. Which may be the injector stetting...So ill go research that once I know I've got the basics set! On the other hand, the car isn't fouling plug 2......

Awesome!

actually an edit:.. What injectors are used on the Subaru V10 base map?

Hey, Kind of a strange one here. STI "Blue" injectors... The Injectors are off my car for servicing/Waiting for the correct end cap that was missing when I got them. and I need to move it around, So I want to fit my "Blue" Sti Injectors for a week or 3> Is There a Confirmed Dead time and latency for these injectors? (I do have a set of pinks as well.) There is a set of values on NASOC, But A) I don't trust NASOC as its 50% wrong most of the time , B ) and other forums have said the values are wrong, C)and they are a 3rd party manufacturer values.. which are also apparently... dodgy.. D) NASOC is normally wrong on technical details.... E) No one refits std injectors do they! Yes, I don't like NASOC (I'm on the work laptop so I cant confirm if the base maps have the data!..)

Well, that's turned on for the 30 second cooldown sequence, but now I'm thinking..... Ghost cam with rotational idle... hmm

There is a term for it? Cool! Hmm, I’ll look at the cam timing option. On a Subaru the usual trick is to feed power to the Avcs so it goes full open, but that’s a bit too brutal for me

As I'm a 15 Year old kid at heart.. I am planning on configuring an imput to the ECU so it engages AVCS at idle, so It advances the Intake cams and give a grumpy idle... But Standard 252 spec Cams. Or Maybe just set the AVCS to go at 600rpm permanently, because I'm that childish.... is 5-10 deg enough, and would I need to throw some Exhaust retard to really annoy people? Its nice having a dead smooth idle, But for Pottering around the Ceremonial start it would be fun! Yes, I'm that childish ( Next, I need to figure out flame on overun... .. not pop, good oldschool sheet of flame.) (Edit: Its an AWD BRZ and it idles around sounding like a RS Subaru, THIS CANT STAND!)

That is what I'm thinking.... my VR4 was not charging sometimes with a replacement ECU. ( Albeit with the Factory ECU and a SMC...) Does the EVO8 control the Charge rate with the ECU in any way?

Bear with me here.... Before you start the car, Get a GOOD Digital voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery on the terminals ( Not the battery lugs.. the terminals). Second, does it have a consistent voltage after starting (Is it the same when its got bad A/R or good A/R) And .... Is your fan controller working fine?

The old "lets throw silicone at a seal that shouldn't have it" trick And some mayonnaise.

If its an Autronic O2 controller it will take the sensor ground/Power from the ECU.. from memory (Its been awhile), I'm not sure how well it would play with a Link. Coming from a Diehard Autronic user standpoint, You need to be careful of the related tables, Takes a little bit of time but once you figure out what does what the ECU is much easier to understand... Just takes some reprogramming of the old headspace! Can I ask what O2 controller you have, and how far the O2 sensor is from the turbo? and.... do you have a Exhaust gas temp sensor? I did manage to get my Autronic IAT sensor to work, just took some mucking about!