kaptainballistik

Evening all. This one is a "which way do you place the toilet roll" question.... (Subaru rallycar....) After finding my GM 3 bar sensor really didn't like vibration, (Behaves itself on a cheeky road test, get on a dirt road and Missfire, missfire, hey Put it on the firewall and it goes away.. ) I've bitten the bullet and got a nice shiny 4Bar Link unit. Are these fine to mount to the Intake manifold ( Higher than vac port , utter arcane chants, the usual stuff involved with mysicatl black boxes.......) in a high vibration environment? or is firmly on the firewall prefered? Admittedly the advice from about 20 years ago was to NOT motor mount a GM sensor and mount them north south if you can.........and the std subi ones seem fine on rallycars.. Motor mount gives shorter wires and shorter vac hose... (ive finally stopped throwing parts at this thing, so I can afford to buy new bits now..)

Oh, I'm DEFINETLY NOT saying its a good idea. I've got a nice pile of Fairly expensive Twinscroll Subaru headers that have twisted exhaust flanges and blown out flex joints from when my STi was a group N car... Even with Cyclic Idle the solution was turn down the Antilag.... Or bin the exhaust after 500 stage km... Or Stump up for a V36, which solved it

On another well known Rally ECU, The way to pull the Idle down with a Group N car is you wind back the advance. 20% is still an awful lot. of opening!

Thanks sir!

Is it possible to configure the PC based logging to "mark" an area in the log if you say... hit the space bar? ("non Ecu" related missfire that's wiring related that only turns up on a Rally stage.... and appears vibration dependent.. So im sure its a bad connector somewhere.....)

Hey all. If I need the car to either let the car overboost a little for a few seconds, or at least let the car go over the prescribed boost.. Lets say 5% over... for 5 seconds... Which particular limit would be the best to target? Its that or its hitting the hard limit! (edit) Nothing overly noticeable is happening in the Logs. Which tells me I'm logging the wrong things.... No ECU error messages...... (Car's fine on the dyno.. of course.. when doing a cheeky block lap.. WHAM... seems to hit a boost cut in second! Funny thing.. Its in 2nd gear up. Its barely in First gear as it is.... Its not a miss, you hit a brick wall! If i roll slightly off in first when I hit the shift light then get back into it... WHAM! Its like the whole car has cut out. And of course its worse on dirt so do you think my logging laptop likes this? NO! I know this particular Wastegate actuator (Hanging off a the VF37) is "lazy and on the Autronic we used a fairly hefty overboost (5 seconds) and I'm only on 19PSI, so if it decides to develop 23 PSI its no issue on a STi motor... (Soft tune to "get it going", 34 MM restrictor so it self chokes.. Wastegate is superfluous over 5000rpm!!!!) PS: Facebook link of the car doing it....https://www.facebook.com/100003297056389/videos/pcb.5647771265243681/6117802661580450

well, that makes it easy!

Evenin all. probably a left field question... but Whats a good target pulse per wheel revolution for reasonably accurate speedo triggering at lower speeds? I'm currently running 5 pulses per Revolution (Trigger on the Inner driveshaft flange) but I'm wondering if going for 10 per revolution. (Grind some teeth off the driveshaft ABS ring... )would give me a bit better resolution at 10-15 KPH (when launch control is active...) From calculations I think a speedo drive of an unmodified subaru ABS ring would be over the Links speedo HZ rate at 130kph...Ish. Happy to be corrected!!

Would It be possible to Reduce the aggressiveness of the antilag as the EGT increases? So lets use known Subaru numbers here... As you approach the Magic 600 at the Turbo, it dials down the antilag, and if that doesn't work, Because the driver is being dumb/a rallydriver (Interchangeable) the ECU starts dialing back boost or Timing? Or.. Back down the antilag AND the timing when Under power to cool it down/Save you from yourself/Don't do a Guy Tyler head port mod.*... Suddenly shutting off antilag when you expect it to be on may be... disconcerting! The Antilag backing off may be a bit more obvious to make you go look at the Gauge. Which you will still ignore.. because Racing. *Melt holes in the head so now you have water injection in the exhaust....

Personally I would be looking at what the off throttle boost level is, vs what "looks" like happening. The STi barely pops and bangs when I'm up it. How much "drive" are you getting under brakes?

Ok, Its in this thread Same thing you are doing

Inlet cam from a 06 on WRX/STI is what Will work with the 3 pin Hall effect sensor. These use 3 groves machined into the rear of the cam, where the Earlier "JDM" style Reluctor cams use 3x cast protrusions. Yep, the "front" external trigger off the intake cam is trigger 2, on the JDM motor you have, and all sensors are the 2 wire type. And correct, On the 2.5 the LH Intake cam has only one sensor and this is assigned Trigger 2 ....and does not have the "cam wheel" trigger. note: not ALL JDM motors that are pre 2007 have Halll effect /3pin sensors on the cams, Externally the giveaway is the longer spark plugs and internally the cams are Hollow. All the crank sensors are 2 pin, so that's the easy part.... There is a thread on here about it, I just cant remember which one it was! so... rewire the LH Cam (Bank 2) trigger to be a 2 wire and connect to the Cam Wheel end trigger. Wire in a New AVCS/Rear cam trigger Rewire Bank one/Drivers to use the 2 wire. Make/buy a 8mm thick alloy adaptor for the DBW. sorted. Rip skids

Don't trust the Subaru Wiring colors, I've got a 2004 Liberty loom with the pink wires as a ground, and My Spec C has pink wires as 5V.... I would advise confirm EVERYTHING with a multimeter!

The DBW uses M6 bolts where a Cable throttle uses M8 bolts. Multiple options here... Plug and redrill mainifold, add inserts to manifold , weld and redrill manifold, Drill out DBW and change to caphead bolts (Personally haven't tried that) , use an adaptor plate. Just be careful about the passages behind the Throttle body face are compatible with the DBW unit. The 3 piece manifolds can swap over between the 2 and 2.5 motors and are otherwise identical if you want the easy way out. The One piece intake is meant more for all out performance on a group N / Twinscroll Motor and trades off some bottom end power for upper midrange. If the TGV's are annoying, just remove the butterflies. Just be careful about the CAM sensors, They are the reluctor 2 wire type so there is a little bit of wiring fiddling required ( which you probably already know. Especially if the new motor has the "external" cam Angle sensor AND the In head cam (AVCS) head sensors. Cheating way to do the swap is to swap the intake cams for a 06 Intake cam if you hate wiring..... and then all the 06 sensors bolt in! If the car is like the Australian cars, the big giveaway for a ADM "07" are the Steel front suspension arms AND a R180 diff! .

Can you bump start the car when "hot"?

Do a flow test on the injectors, But DO it several times... Look for a injector that's a bit hotter than the others ( Cyl 1 injector would be my suspect....) Only really possible on a flow tester due to teh Fluid volume.

Next.... Plugs! I'm presuming Iridium's? If you go for a good run, Will the missfire stay away for awhile?. and.. If you go for a drive and then pull out a plug with minimal idle time, hw much soot is there on the plug?

Are you getting Missfires on over 15PSi of boost?

If you have the COP coils, Can you stick them into another car to try them? For some reason the Link can "drive" coils that on a STD ecu wont even work! Ask me how I know this...

Ok, Testing was... testing! When you get the occasional ECU Fault Code 77: APS(main) /APS(sub) tracking Error.. Any particular bit of wiring to start checking? I've got a log of the car running, but I would like to have a crack at trying to figure it out myself first! What seemed to happen is at full throttle the car would basically fall on its face fairly randomly. Wouldn't throw an error (Except the fault 77 was there once i plugged the laptop into the running car.) at under 75% it seemed to behave itself..

Ok, This may have done the self resolve trick... My DBW pedal started acting up (you could "see" it jumping in calibration mode on the Main potentiometer). As the car has a pedal box I think it was getting a very slight twist into the Pedal linkages. I've changed from a U shaped linkage to a rod ends as well So Ill see how this goes... Mind you, I swapped over to rod ends early last year, So if that's the cause its a long time coming! I'm going testing this weekend so I will get some decent logs!

If it was a MSI you can sometimes de-compile and add the "32 bit" reference XP is looking for, Presuming its a 32 Bit app in the first place! Or run a switch (I.E. Filename.exe /32)) .exe? Yeah I ain't that good!

Unfortunately I'm getting the issue when I double click the installer. ( so desn't even attempt!)

During install.

Hey all. Is XP supported with any of the Link 4x PC link versions? (Couldnt see anything when i googled... I tried loading and its coming up as not a valid win32 application. ) is there a command like switch to initiate it in 32 bit mode? Not a big issue really, The Workshop laptop is dying and the next spare is a XP machine. (its got the management software for 3 other cars, So it would be convenient to get the Link software working!)