INSW20

Here's another capture

I tried cranking tonight with my new trigger setup, using a BEAMS crank gear, and maintaining the stock distributor for cam sync on my gen2 3sgte. I didn't move any trigger 2 wires, only changed the trigger 1 wiring to go to the crank sensor and to pin 26 signal ground. Here's what I'm seeing for my trigger scope: What did I screw up? Trigger Scope Log 2023-01-4 8;54;59 pm.llg

Perfect, thanks again for the help!

Ah, looking more closely at the diagram, I see it now: Another question, do we know what kind of signal is created by the cruise sensor if I wired that directly to a DI? Very interesting! I'll see if me and my friend (his car is having the issue, mine is in pieces still) can get that done. Thank you!!

Yep, it's an earlier car. It has a 3 wire sensor (I assume hall effect?) that's used for the cruise control speed sensor on the OEM setup. The sensor goes between the mechanical sender and the cable that goes up to the cluster. I'll look for mechanical issues and cable friction problems on it. Thank you all! =)

That appears to have mostly fixed it. Is it normal for it to jump around quite a bit? It seems like when wheel speed approaches 40mph it goes wild. Wiring issue?

I'll try that and report back. Thank you!

correct. log attached. thank you!

Any ideas? Car is using a completely stock engine and body harness. 1991 MR2 turbo with ABS and cruise control. PNP TST185+

First thing I noticed upon opening your map is your fuel pressure is set to 21.8PSI: I'd start by aligning that to your actual base pressure and see if anything else is working better after that. EDIT: I read your post more closely, I would still reset your base pressure to match reality. Seems like there’s a different problem to me. Where is your wideband mounted?

Having a hard time getting wheel speed to read. What am I doing wrong?

To close the loop on this, that was the problem. Using a non-Link (BTI) harness with a BTI gauge and they're pinned differently. Changed pin locations and now it's working flawlessly.

Due to the way the gauge connectors were configured, the ECU and lambda are both on the output plugs, and the gauge is on the typical “input” plug. But we’ll try swapping output plugs between the ECU and the lambda and see if the gauge still works to verify operation on both output leads.

I'm working on this one remotely, but sounds like they're reading 42ohms across hi and low. The gauge "should" have come with a single resistor, but crazier things have happened. It's getting power through a CANTEE that it shares with the gauge. Power is from switched fuse from the fuse/relay box in the engine bay. Is there a resistor that's easily accessible in the ECU we can remove to test? The gauge is apparently a big pain to access to remove the extra resistor. The way the harness was built I don't think the BTI and CanLambda will plug in to the same connector.

No resistor at the controller. I thought the ECU had a built-in resistor, and the gauge should take care of the 2nd resistor. Controller is located next to the ECU in the trunk (MR2 chassis).

Correct, both on can1. BTI is showing data on its screen without issue. Resistor is in the back of the gauge. I have an almost identical setup on another car only with the Link CanGauge instead of the BTI and it works flawlessly, for whatever that's worth.

Hoping there's just something silly I missed on this. Running a canlambda with a BTI gauge using a cantee. BTI is working fine. Can't seem to get any communication from the canlambda. Haven't run the engine yet, but there's just nothing showing up at all. Thanks! Adrian House Base Map v9.pclr

I currently have my engine out and apart, and have as good an opportunity as ever to change to a crank trigger using an OEM gear and sensor. What I'm having trouble with is determining which return pin is dedicated to trigger 1 vs trigger 2. I will continue to use the distributor internals for trigger 2.

mine is set to 200hz. why are you running negative ignition advance at idle? the idle ignition table is a lookup table, not an "adder" table. so if you set idle ignition to -5, you will be firing the coil at -5 degrees. my 3sgte also seems happy idling at about 15 degrees

I meant "idle air control valve", I'm certain we're talking about the same thing, the little air valve on the bottom of the TB. Mine is a Gen2. I don't have any speed inputs into the ECU currently (91 cable speedometer, no ABS, no cruise sensor yet), so my speed lockout is "off". Maybe start by turning idle ignition control off, closed loop idle off, double check everything and start with fresh idle tuning. And of course save your current cal as a revision if you need to revert back. Here are my settings, not saying this is ideal, but this seems to work well for my setup.

Another local 3sgte owner rerouted his idle air plumbing to the throttle body inlet, so his IACV position can’t cause boost leaks. Just depends on how your air plumbing is set up. I’m not sure why our IACV positions are so different, but my idle is about 850-900rpm hot. The engine responds appropriately to changes in valve position, so I never considered that I may have any problems there.

I have my idle valve set to close over about 5% TPS on my gen2 3SGTE, for what that's worth. I've been very happy with how my engine idles. It's taking filtered air from the turbo inlet tube.

Do you have any idea what fuel pressure was doing? Might be very worthwhile to install a fuel pressure sensor, especially at that much boost and that small of a pump.

Your setup sounds very similar to mine, although I'm a billet ct20b on a 2.1L stroker 3SGTE. That said, I've attached my tune, feel free to compare, but I would advise against copy/pasting the ignition map or anything like that. ID1050x's stock gen2 cams Mac 3 port solenoid TVIS deleted billet ct20b, KO downpipe, Apexi N1 exhaust flex fuel, mainly tuned on E85, haven't done much on the 93 octane map yet Link canLambda AEM map sensor Rife IAT sensor coil on plug setup using the stock distributor triggers