k4nnon

Thanks Adam for the advice. I have everything I should need to get everything configured properly. I’m just trying to think now about where I need to tap into the wheel speed sensors to send that info to the CAN device. Because the Evo 9 with ACD sends wheel speed from sensors to ABS module I believe, then from ABS to ACD ecu. I would like to keep original functionality of both ABS and ACD if possible. So would it be as simple as just tapping and adding a line between wheel speed sensor and ABS ecu, and the CAN device? Or would it need to be in a specific place such as after the ABS ecu or ACD ecu? That is my next big hurdle. Finding out how to wire this up properly. Any help will be great file. ThNks shin for the input as always.

Hey thanks for the input. I purchased both the Ecumaster CAN wheel speed module as well as the Ecumaster USB to CAN communications module. As far as what you mean by checking factory default stuff what are you meaning by that. I have a usdm Evo 9 and I don’t believe individual wheel speed is sent to the ecu? Am I wrong? Let me know thanks. Thankyou for the input. I did order both so I’ll see how setup goes. Thanks again.

Hey all didn’t get a reply towards my earlier post on this topic so decided to word it differently and post again. Looking to do CAN based individual wheel speed input to link G4X for Evo 9. I’m looking at the ECU Master Can wheel speed module. The info on this module says it needs a CAN to usb interface cable to calibrate the module/sensors. Do I need this cable or is the link g4x already set up as a CAN communications module through its own usb cable. I don’t wanna spend $200 on the additional cable if I already have pre existing hardware with link. Please let me know and Thankyou!

Hey all Link G4X PnP user here for USDM evo 9. I have a question regarding CAN. Im looking into the idea of sending individual wheel speed over CAN so I can log wheel speeds and set up traction control/power management in link. Im looking at the ECU Master wheel speed to CAN Module. The product description states that the module MUST be programed using a CAN interface. Is this something that would communicate and can be configured with the Link CAN interface, or will I need to purchase another $200 cable? Please let me know if anyone has an answer and thanks!

Just a little note on this, Its almost always more beneficial/safer to use an ignition cut vs fuel cut. The reason is if fuel cut is used, its doing just that, cutting fuel. So this leaves the possibility of a lean condition. Using ignition cut is safer because when the ignition is cut, the fuel is still present. Hope that helps.

Thanks! I took another look at it this morning and found that my GP Temp 1 was allocated to MAF IAT. and source was NONE. so I figured it was not being used currently. I was able to set up all 4 GP Temp inputs to be used as my individual EGTs. Thanks again for the info!

Hey Adam thanks for the input. I thought about doing that but figured there would be more wiring involved. If it’s just a configuration change in link that would be great. Otherwise I may try the math block or just not let it bother me. I’ll play around with it some more and see what I come up with. Thanks again as always.

Anyone else notice or have a way to change this?? Not really an issue at all but im setting up individual EGT with my link g4x. Im using GP Temp 2, GP Temp 3, GP Temp 4, and a GP Analog Input with an amplifier from the sensors. Amplifier has 0-5v outputs that I am sending to the link. I have everything set up correctly I believe but I noticed all of my GP Temp inputs read default 32.0 as should, but my GP Analog input just reads 32. Which again isnt really an issue. But seeing my display as 32.0 32.0 32.0 32 is just kinda annoying to me haha. My OCD coming into play. Any way to change this? Thanks for any input.

Thanks again, I briefly looked at that one the other day but i didnt take notice to if it provided 4 thermocouplers or if i needed to make a another purchase on those. Ill look into it thanks again!

Thankyou for the input! I was actually going to write in my original post that I did look at the CAN stuff. The difference in cost is quite a bit, about half actually. So if I can get the cheaper option to work I would rather do that, but maybe ill take another look around. Thanks again!

Hey all I am thinking about purchasing and installing an individual egt sensor kit. The particular kit I am looking at is the Innovate TC-4 Thermocouple Amplifier Kit with 4 included K-Type sensors. I have a setup question before I make the purchase. I have a PnP G4x for my evo 9. I have both expansion harnesses and both are running out of space already. I have AN Temp 4 available on harness 1, and I have AN Volt 6, 7, and 9 available on harness 2. The Innovate amplifier has 4, 0-5V outputs that I can input to the link. My question is in regards to AN temp 4 that has the 1k internal resistor. Will this cause an issue in set up since I cannot turn it off? Will setup be the exact same as the other voltage inputs? I assume they dont need a resistor since the amplifier is a 0-5v output, or will all inputs to the g4x need 1k resistors? If anyone has any helpful input I appreciate it. Thanks.

Hey I may be able to help you out because I just did a bunch of this stuff to my evo. First off are you using an electronic throttle body or is it still cable actuated? There are a couple different ways to do this, Im not really familliar with your particular vehicle but the principal is all the same. You need to get more air into the engine. Usually this is done by opening the throttle plate 10-20% by the means of electronic control with a drive by wire system, or electronic controlled solenoid that opens the throttle plate or by some mechanical means that opens the throttle plate a certain amount. Once the throttle plate is fixed permanently open you can turn on cyclic idle and adjust the settings to get the sound you want. There is one other way to accomplish getting more air into the engine and that is by the use of the iac valve. Sometimes setting the iac valve fully open will let in just enough air for cyclic to work but often times the iac is still too small to let enough air in. Hope some of that info helps. Let us know if you progress with it or have more questions.

Thanks Adam, I kinda feel the same but I must have something incorrect somewhere. I will see if I can figure it out and get a log to post up. Thanks again. Hey thanks the info. when I have cyclic working it works well as should with no issues. I just need to drive the vehicle and make adjustments where needed. I have not driven the car with antilag on and working yet due to other setup but here are a couple clips of the cyclic working and a stationary throttle blip. Needs further adjustment and isnt right yet but becoming operational. Open to suggestions about further adjustments. thanks again for the input. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HTCTTRznCSMz584H19jU34uOjrO5iTnY?usp=sharing

when the kicker is enabled it is right at 20% open from the normal driving closed position of 0%. So 20% is what the tps reads unless i recal the tps.

Thanks for the input. Below are my 2 current Antilag ON and Antilag off configurations. I have my antilag arming setup as a virtual aux using a rotary switch position. So what im trying to accomplish is one configuration file where its normal driving map and then when the rotary switch position is selected have the system armed. If i do this now from my normal driving cal my rpms will run away until the tps is recalibrated for the new throttle opening position. or if i flash in the seperate antilag calibration where the tps is already recalibrated. I must have something in the settings incorrect and havent found wherre to make changes yet. thanks again for the input. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1NLTMwx5ND35IKjeh49QNjk7VV3Epj_kd?usp=sharing

Hey thanks for the input. Im actually not completely sure why this has to happen or maybe i dont have something set up correctly. But if I Switch from my normal map to my antilag map my rpms want to run away. If i recal the tps to the new throttle open position angle all works fine as should. If i switch back from my antilag map to my normal map the car seems to idle fine, but as soon as i try to drive the car it will hit that recal tps position and almost kill the car. So i have to recal the tps again for my normal driving map and its new tps position then all is good again. Maybe i just need to play with some more settings. I would like to get it to where i dont have to recal the tps again between maps if that is possible. Im open to ideas and suggestions thanks again for the input.

Hey all, is there a way to set up the use of two separate TPS cals on one cal file? Maybe by the use of a virtual or rotary switch input? The reason for the need is because I have my off throttle antilag set up and when going from my main driving map into my antilag map it requires a TPS recal. My antilag is set up using the throttle kicker method and I have my cyclic idle/antilag inactive, and cyclic idle/antilag active maps set up on a rotary switch. It would be nice to have these rotary switch positions also linked to the change in throttle position so that I dont need to hook up my computer and change files and recal the tps all the time. If there is no way around this than there is no issue, just wondering if anyone has any other solution. Thanks!!

Hey you shouldnt have to wire anything if your sensors and wiring are stock. If its a PnP ecu then everything should be set up already. You will just need to load in the appropriate base map and do all of your general set up such as TPS calibration, Injector data, MAP calibration, all that other stuff and it should work as things get set up. Let us know if you get it working orneed further help.

Hey just to add to this, Im not familliar with the vehicle at all but If the car will stay running, and run smoothly if you hold the throttle open slightly then that suggests the engine wants more air to be happy. This could also mean that there is too much fuel at this moment, cause for the engine wanting more air. Is there an idle adjustment you can perform as such with an IAC valve? Or an idle base position you can adjust to add a little more airflow without throttle peddle input? If so give that a try and see how the car idles. Best of luck figuring it out. Also if you can see what your lambda or afr is that will tell you what fueling is doing and then give you direction if you need more or less air or fuel.

Thankyou for the input. I currently do not but it is sounding like a good investment so I’ll probably be purchasing and installing one in the near future. Thanks again.

Hey guys I have another question in relation to all of this that I forgot to put in my original post. When I switch from my regular driving map to my antilag map with my throttle kicked open at 20%, cyclic idle to work all the time, the only way it functions and works is if I do a TPS calibration. So TPS now reads 20% open as its new 0% position and then to full open 100%. My cyclic idle low is 21% and cyclic idle high is 23%. Iv noticed driving, pulling out eith cyclic idle that it is very bucky and requires a good amount of peddle to pull away and acts the same between shifts, lots of peddle and bucking around. I understand this may be normal and if so then there is no issue. But is there any relation to these driving characteristics to the fact that my throttle is actually at 20% and my TPS thinking that it is at 0% open? Also would any of that change if i change my cyclic idle low to say 2% and my cyclic idle high to say 5% because it is seeing my TPS at 0%. Also should there be a change is accel enrichment around this area to make pulling away better or would this not help at all? Thanks again for any input!

Great info! Thankyou I appreciate it! I would like to make this work but keep it as soft on parts as I can if possible. Engine, Valvetrain, all other parts are fully built and good quality, but I know even the best quality stuff was not designed for the stress levels that may be seen so im trying to stay on the less agressive side. Is there a way to tell when its right? Say with driving and antilag working, if i get it to a happy 0-3si off throttle, lambda looks good car feels good. Is there a way to tell if its right and good or is it just a feel thing. I guess what I mean is, is there a more safe way than unsafe way to do this and which is the method for keeping parts alive as long as possible? Thanks again for the input. it is good information..

Hey all Link G4x PnP user here with my 2006 USDM Evo 9. Requesting some help from more experienced drivers/tuners of vehicles with rally style antilag. In particular systems with a throttle kicker method which I have developed for my car. Currently all is functional and working. I have my throttle kicked at 20% at all times when in antilag mode. Cyclic idle is working and sounding pretty smooth. I do have a vacuum pump and vacuum canister functional and working when antilag is on. My questions are towards the adjustments. Is there a particular method to this or is it just a little by little adjustment and testing to get the car to act as intended. My personal goals for this is to be used on tarmac/loose tarmac in autocross. My car has a slightly larger turbo which is not great for autox Garrett35r. But I also dont want to make this too aggressive to where parts are sacrificed early. So with that said im thinking i would be happy with just eliminating the vacuum and keeping manifold pressure at 0 to maybe 5psi off throttle. Other questions,, can this be set up while stationary? As far as a throttle stab into antilag conditions to see what boost is produced and how it acts or is there a difference on the street or dyno with driveline load that will change these numbers? I understand engine braking will be eliminated for the most part I just dont know if theres a difference in set up while stationary vs driving and off throttle. Also in my initial testing with -25* absolute timing and the throttle at 20% im only seeing like 2psi produced and im actually still seeing light vacuum like -1 to -3psi. does this mean i need the throttle plate opened even further, like maybe 25%. I may have read that larger turbos may require a larger throttle opening. Now as far as the boost produced,, if im seeing 3psi and i want closer to 5 or say 10psi on the more aggressive side, is this accomplished by more timing retard or by adding fuel. If i made 3 psi at -25 and I go to -30 should that produce more boost or is that just more strain on the valves and turbo. Im just looking for a proper approach to this so it is correct. I can post up my current cal for anyone to look over my settings and give feedback. Most of my inital map values are just based off the Link help/example info. Ill also include a short clip of how my cyclic sounds. Let me know if it sounds appropriate or if it needs adjusted. And also a short stationary throttle stab into antilag and then back into cyclic. Its very loud which im not sure if thats a good thing or if it should be smoother sounding. but let me know thanks!!! https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1tzH9YxF0OBUP5Mqafi0m-0zaA9vUpCd5?usp=sharing

Hey thanks for the input, All true statements and especially about the forum stuff. I think Iv decided to develop my own ignition tables the next time I get on the dyno. Easiest best method. Thanks again for the input.

Hey thanks for the response. I understand all of that already, just wondered if there was a proper way to go backwards with timing to find the best spot or if it’s always the advance method. I guess ultimately what I can do is set everything under boost levels as stock and everything above to 0* and add from there to find the best timing for pk tq then use the add method towards redline to fill in the rest of my map. Looks like that’s the rout. Thanks again for the response.