k4nnon

Hey all LinkG4x PnP user here with my USDM 2006 EVO9. I have an ignition timing question that I am unsure of. Self tuned and doing well so far on street and on dyno. Car is on ethanol and content is reading about E72 currently. So Iv recently started further tuning my Boost and ignition tables after having a decent base map. My starting ignition map is just the base startup ignition map provided from Link only I initially lowered upper end quite a bit to build my knock threshold tables. Now going forward, I did a few curiosity searches about what ignition timing numbers the evo 9 likes and I have noticed that other peoples ignition maps are running a lot less timing during peak tq than I am. Now these other maps are from older posts and users are using EcuFlash and EvoScan if that makes a difference. But what im seeing in other ignition maps are timing numbers around the 4* and 5* during peak tq and then the added timing going towards redline. Looking in my current ignition map I havent changed anything in the peak tq region as of yet but the stock provided map from Link has numbers from 25* down to about 15*. I have not seen any knock in my logs but wondering if I would see a benefit by running less timing in this region and how to go about finding that sweet spot. I understand the adding timing to find the MBT but how do I go about the lesser timing in peak tq region if it is beneficial. Would like to build the best ignition possible as we would all like to but if anyone has any input on this I would love to hear it thankyou.. Ill post up current map and pictures of other timing maps for reference. I will mention that i did come across a couple maps with higher values but the question is which is correct? or do I just continue with my current map and progression?? Thanks again!! https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1S3uG6q3h0MHMiIYy0mWX0BABzi37R8n_?usp=drive_link

Hey this is a pretty easy fix. Example from my car, I set my target table up in multiples of 5. So 5, 10, 15, 20, all the way to 45psi. And for the rpm side I use 500rpm increments to 3000rms and then jump to 1000rpm increments to 9000 and then fill out my table with my targets. Your table wont be the same but you can set it up similarly by skipping portions of the map that will have the same targets. In my case from 20psi-45psi and 5500-9000rpms, my taget is the same, so that whole portion of the map can be shortened to only a couple cells because the ecu will know that the requested target is the same in that region. I hope that makes sense or helps out somehow.

Hey just to add some info to this,, If you are using any type of aggressive Ignition cut/gear shift control between shifts then it will read lean at those moments. Not that the engine is actually lean. The fuel is there but is unburnt by the lack of ignition. The o2 sensor reads the oxygen and not the fuel. So too little fuel will read lean, and also unburnt fuel will read lean. Go by how the car feels and watch the logs. If fueling is good though the pull and back to good right after shift then its probably nothing to worry about.

Hey thanks for the reply. I will take a fresh log here during lunch and post up the log with the tune file. This happens while watching the computer during normal driving, I can glance over at the computer and see the green dot floating around the center or slightly outside of center as it should, then next minute i lookover and the dot would be way outside of screen as if up on the headlight of the vehicle image, dot will be frozen and not moving. I will post up a log as soon as i can thnaks.

Hey all link G4x PnP setup on my 2006 Evo 9. I’m having an issue setting up the 3 axis accelerometer and I can’t tell if it’s because I’m not setting it up properly or if I’m having a different issue. What’s happening is I am in the middle of setting up the accelerometers, stationary on a flat surface I will zero my sensors stated in the help menu. Now trying to find which orientation I need to set up the sensors so it’s reading properly, I think I have mine set to -90 so the sensors work properly with vehicle motion. My issue is that after driving and logging for a bit say I take a mild corner or hit a pothole, the green dot will jump completely out of frame and then freeze up in the corner of screen and doesn’t return to center. The logging will continue logging until I stop it. Then if I hit log again it seems like it resets itself into the middle again. I also have my filter on 20 but it didn’t change the dot from jumping out of frame. Has this happened to anyone before or am I just doing something incorrect? Let me know if anyone has any info on this thanks!

Hey Adam, would these numbers be universal between engine platforms? Just reading through the post, Im not currently having any knock issues, but noticed on my built evo 9 my knock settings are set to start 10deg after and window length is 60. Would there be a more accurate/smoother knock detection setting to 20deg after and a 50 knock window? Or are these numbers based off WOT timing numbers? Let me know please and thanks..

Hey, heres how I would do it. Im not 100% how the switch operates so figure that out and then wire the switch sides as aux inputs to your ecu. Then configure it up in link so that you can see it activate when you press the switches and then turn off when they are turned off. Once those are set up you can then turn on your extra wastegate duty cycle maps as other boost settings and then have them activate when the switch is pressed to the appropriate position. Another way that I have personally done this in my own evo is by using the headlight leveling rotary switch as a general purpose rotary switch for map selection which i use for different boost levels or things. But the similar way to do it would be get the switch inputs working and activating in link, then set up a couple virtual aux outputs triggered by the switch position. then dedicate a wastegate duty cycle map to the virtual positions. Back to earlier about how the switch operates,,, Im thinking that your manual hold side of the switch is momentary, which means its only working when you hold the button down. If that is the case you will have to set that up as a latched input because it wont stay active if you arent holding the switch. Effectively you will be turning that button into a simple on/off switch that you will have to push once for on and once for off, you wont have to hold it. the other side of the switch is always on so you will not set that side up as latched. Hope some of that info helps and isnt too confusing..

you are correct that cyclic idle is necessary when using antilag with the throttle open. A cable method works as well from in the cabin and is another great way to accomplish the same thing without added solenoids and wiring.

Hey, sorry i havent been on here much lately. Are you asking how i turn the antilag off? Like completely off or how it operates after use on a course? Ill try to answer both. Im still learning this antilag function stuff myself but the way i have my stuff set up is as simple as possible. Meaning my system is a manual ON/OFF system. If i want the system on and working I manually crank the throttle kicker down to open my throttle plate to 20%. Then I have a seperate "Antilag" map that i flash into the computer. I then have a rotary type switch that i use for a map 1 and two selection while on my antilag map. My map1 is cyclic idle on with antilag disarmed, so i can drive the car as normal without having the system create boost but the cyclic idle is always on. My map 2 is system armed to work as intended. So say i have an autox day that i want to use antilag. Ill drive the car as normal to the course, do all my prep work and turn in my throttle kicker, flash the antilag map with map1 selected and make sure all is functioning properly. Ill drive like that to the staging area and then flip my switch to map2 and run the course, then back to map1 while coming back to park. Then all back to normal before i drive home. Also to note while my antilag map is running, I have a vacuum pump and vacuum canister to create and hold some vacuum for the power brakes. I just have my vacuum pump set to run constantly while in antilag map. If you would like more info on how i did this let me know and ill tell you how i did it. Hope that answered some questions. Please let me know if you would like to know more Thanks.

Hey, just to post on this, it may have already been covered but i didnt read every reply, just skimmed. The iac valves are known to stick, They can be taken apart and cleaned and sometimes a cleaning will fix some idle issues. If you havent physically taken it apart to look at it and see if its clean or not maybe just do a quick look and see how it looks. Hope you get it fixed up!

This is a "manual" type system. So no solenoids or anything like that. My intentions for use of this system are when I attend some autocross race events. So basically if i want the antilag system to work, i go under the hood and i manually turn the kicker in by hand until it hits a stop. When it is turned fully in it is exactly 20% throttle position or opened 20%. Then I have a single direction 'T' valve that i can switch the direction of my brake booster circuit to be used with the vacuum pump. Then all i have to do is flash in my Antilag map with cyclic idle and everything works. I have a vacuum canister in the circuit with my vscuum pump to hold some residual vacuum after a braking event but i have my pump run constantly when in use. My autox sessions are sub 2 minutes so the pump running this long isnt an issue. If i want to go back to normal street driving i just turn the kicker back out again to another stop set at 0% throttle opening and then just turn my 't valve in the booster line back to the intake side and flash in my normal driving map. Let me know if you have any further questions. thanks.

I get what you’re saying. It may be more of a headache than just filling up with e85 and leaving it there. I’ll be incorporating the flex tuning so all of that will be fine. Thanks for the input as alway.

Hey Adam thanks for the reply. I see what you are saying. This may end up being a static value. By this I mean that when the pump stations switch to summer blend it stays consistent 85% until the colder months. I routinely test with a glass tester. But if I test and Ethanol content is showing it is 85% and I can assume it should be that. Could I then somehow set up something that would tell me now much e85 and then gasoline needed to get a mixture of e70? I would like to run consistent e70.

Hey all LinkG4x PnP for Evo 9 user here,, I had an idea that may or may not work. Seems like it might, I understand it in my mind, I just don’t know about how to set it up in Link to see if it will work or not so I’m seeking help of more experienced users to verify my idea. Here’s my idea/question. Would there be a way to set up a math block channel to figure out exactly how much fuel is needed to get a certain ethanol content mixture? Knowing the fuel tank capacity, and current ethanol content from a sensor. Like say I want to run a consistent e70 mixture. But the ethanol content from the pump varies through the year from e66 in winter to e85. But I want to run e70. Is there a way to set something up to where it will give me a number saying I need 6gallons of ethanol doesn’t matter the content as long as it’s above 70% because sensor will be readinand then I need however many gallons of gasoline to complete the mixture and have it accurately be e70? Soo my entire fuel tank capacity is 14gallons, I could tap into the fuel level sensor wire and configure to get fuel level in link, I could then use the ethanol content sensor to measure current ethanol content in the tank, I would just need to configure the equation to get the amount of ethanol needed and gasoline needed to get the desired ethanol content. Let me know if anyone has any further info on if this may be possible or how to do it. Thanks!!

Any chance the coils arent firing in the correct order? If all else seems good, maybe the firing event isnt at the right time or place? Let us know if you figure it out.

Verified fixed.. Thanks Adam!

Looks like they may have gotten the posting issues fixed so heres the link to the photos of how i set up my antilag stuff.. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=share_link

Hey great point, There is actually a lot of back and forward information on this and no real direct best way to do it. Simple matter is the fuel needs to get into the cylinder at some point and every engine is going to be different as far as when it wants that to happen. Another point is that some really efficient engines and depending on fuel type,, the valves on the intake side may not even get hot enough to flash all of the fuel into vapor before it enters the cylinder. Great for cooling the cylinder temps, but not ideal for the mixture and combustion event. Another portion of this has to do with the actual time it takes from the fuel injection event to the time it takes that fuel to then enter the cylinder, this is all verses engine speed and how smoothly and how much air is also entering the cylinder to help pull the fuel in with it. The key is to fine out where the engine is happy, Adjust injection timing to the richest lambda/AFR point and that will tell where the most efficient spray event is happening. Only things that may change this is more or less engine speed, Airflow or variable cam timing events..

There has been a recent site issue with posts and accounts being blocked. Happened to me earlier and its being looked into currently so hopefully all of that is fixed soon. The basic launch stuff is fairly simple. just gotta play with the values and see how the car reacts.

Hey, the single launch rpm will be for stationary launch such as in a drag race application. You will set it up with throttle position and then set your launch rpm. Depending on how the car behaves you may want to play with the speed because if the car spins or bogs down on launch its going to kill the launch rpm status as soon as it sees 1mph or so. Best to set the speed disable point right when the car gains solid traction. This will keep launch limiter enabled until the car is in motion and with grip. Little bit different setup if you are trying to set up boost with launch limiter. Hope that helps some.

Lame... Im sure it will be fixed at some point..

Injection timing is important to making sure the most amount of fuel possible enters the cylinder. you dont want to spray fuel while the valve is still closed. so the timing makes sure the fuel spray event is while the valves are open so all of the fuel gets in. pretty easy to figure out as well if you can watch fuel correction values.

looks like the posting of drive link is what caused it for me also. Makes things more difficult, iv already filled my allowed photo space and was instructed to use a drive link or something similar.. that was working well until recent. Thanks for the post up. Hopefully there is a fix for this soon.

Hey i just did all of this to my car but im having trouble posting with help because i keep getting blocked..