k4nnon

Hey I dont have any 2J experience but the ecu side should be similar. As far as setting it up we need a little more information. Does the car have a driving map on it currently and are you asking about normal driving or full throttle driving? Logs and Maps will be very helpful for anyone on the forum who can help you. So you might wanna post some of those so we can see where you might need adjustments. As far as the antilag stuff are you trying to set up a launch, rolling launch, or rally style antilag? All will be different, and will need different adjustments to function. The most common are stationary launch antilag or 2step, and then a rolling or latched antilag with a button. Let us know what you are trying to achieve and we can help you get set up..

Hey Adam thanks for the input. Kinda funny, I started thinking about it yesterday and I actually drew a picture that ended up looking identical to the picture you posted. Im going to set up my vac pump on a T and then just have two simple open close valves that i can change the source of vacuum to the booster.Also thought of using a 2 or 3 way ball valve so i can accomplish the change with only one valve but i havent found a part that i figure will work as needed yet. Either way i think this method will work as needed thanks again!!

Hey all G4X PnP for evo 9. As the topic states im looking for some information on how guys are setting up antilag with power brakes. Iv been looking into getting a vacuum pump that will operate only while antilag is on and working. The pump im looking into is advertised to pull 20" vacuum and is advertised to be used as a power brake vacuum unit. With that said does this sound like a sufficient means of keeping the power brakes operable? Or will and should i also add a vacuum canister with it. Next question is check valves. I was planning on "T" fitting into the main vac line between main check valve and booster and then adding another check valve between "T" and vac pump. But with the vac pump operating with antilag on and no vacuum in the manifold will the vacuum from the pump try and pull open the primary check valve and then be a leak somehow? Let me know if anyone has any input on this Thanks!!!!

Hey all Evo 9 PnP G4X. Im kind of confused about something and i want to make sure i have my knock control tables set up properly. The evo is a wasted spark system,,, but i have a spoolin up direct coil on plug set up on the car.. Although there are individual coils,, the car still operates as a wasted spark system. soo coils 1 and 4 fire at the same time as well as 2 and 3 firing at the same time. I believe i have my knock tables set up as individual cylinder knock control where im thinking i need to set it to where knock tables 1 and 4 are the same and 2 and 3 are the same to operate with the wasted spark setup.. Does this sound correct? I can post a link to my current map and the last dyno tune session i did to the car. Car runs and drives great so far. Tune is very soft, no boost control yet only wastegate 18psi 445/370 on a mustang.. Thanks for any input and information!! https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=share_link

Thanks for the info guys. This is beginning to sound like more of a pain in the butt than needed. I may just ditch the idea rather than take on a big project. My interest was towards being able to play a log back and see where traction is lost. I might just simplify this and try to set up a front vs rear loss somehow?? If you have any info on this as well i may need some brain power. Im setting up for autox next season and i want to use the link as fully as possible for track data. I feel like some wheel speed info would be good for that. What if all 4 could be sent through a CAN system? Again might be too much work for what its worth. might just leave it alone haha. Thanks again.

Hey all LinkG4X PnP for usdm evo 9. As the title suggests, Im wanting to input individual wheel speeds to my link. Do I need to individually wire each wheel speed sensor into the ecu and then configure everything? Or this already a supported feature that i just havent set up properly. I have my vehicle speed set up through the oem trans speed sensor and the car does have oem individual wheel speed sensors on all 4 corners, I just dont see how to get these reading in the link, or if i need to hardwire them all with their own inputs. If anyone has information on how to do this i will greatly appreciate the help as always.. Thanks!

Hey I had this question a while back also and its not really a concern. Your lambda reading will read very lean while cyclic idle is working. This is because the ecu is cutting fuel completely to each cylinder in a specific sequence to keep the idle down. No fuel will will mean that only oxygen will pass through the cylinder and into the exhaust, the o2 sensor will read this as an extremely lean mixture. If your idle map is good when cyclic idle is off then you can assume this is the lambda reading to each cylinder that is getting fuel when cyclic idle is working. Pay attention to antilag lambda reading when out of cyclic idle range though because you will not want that reading to be lean. It should read comparable to where it is normally with boost slightly rich 10-11 afr or .800-.850 lambda. Hope that helps understand that a bit better.

Hey Adam, thanks for the input as always. This kind of what I had figured. All preference and adjusted to suit the driver, track, experience.... Im probably going to shoot for a soft 0-5psi off throttle and see how it responds. If everything is happy and I can use more, ill set it a little more aggressive. Thanks again.

Hey, no experience with RB tuning, but its pretty simple to create a knock table from scratch if your willing. Every car is different, even in stock form so one map may not be suited to another but usually in stock form they are pretty close. What i would do is save your current timing tables obviously so you can get them back. Next i would set your knock thresh hold table really high to 1000 so its not making any corrections. Next go to your timing tables and set everything above vacuum to 0* timing. This essentially sets the timing to where the engine is not capable of knocking. Then go out and do some wide open pulls, or a better idea would be to use a dyno if you can. But log and then watch your knock activity, since your timing tables are set to where knock is not possible, what you are seeing is "engine noise". Every cylinder will show different values but they all should be fairly close to each other. If you find one or more cylinders are a lot higher or lower than the others you can adjust the individual gain channels to bring them all in line. Once they are in line, Do a couple pulls and logs and verify that these tables look fairly similar to each other. This is what is considered your knock floor. Take these values and input them into your knock thresh hold tables but add about 20-30% to each of your values. This gives a ceiling in the case of an actual knock event. a real knock event will register a value higher than your added 20-30% so then the knock table will function and pull timing as should. Once your knock table is created you can save and then switch back to your current timing tables. Go do some pulls and verify fuel and that your knock activity is below your table values. if you are seeing a real knock event then you can evaluate your true timing tables and make an adjustment. Hope any of that information is useful haha, best of luck..

Hey all this question is specific to cars set up with real rally style antilag and in particular to drivers more experienced with driving the cars with real antilag set up.. Soo Im setting up some group N style antilag on my 06 usdm evo 9. Car has a self made throttle kicker and my mapping is decent so far. Everything is working as far as the antilag and cyclic idle. I have not driven the car with antilig yet because i will be installing a vacuum pump soon to address the power brake issue.. My question is, is there any specific boost i should be targeting while off throttle and antilag is working or is this all personal preference to the driver, course, how the car acts ect...? Or is there a general universal target such as 0psi to keep the car out of vacuum and essentially no lag because any throttle input will be positive pressure. I am wanting to set this up for some autox use because my turbo is quite large and i can benefit from less lag and quicker boost response, however i dont want to set this up too aggressive to where ill be killing a turbo after 2 sessions. I understand the risks and wear of such a violent internal process but i feel with good quality parts and proper tuning, everything should work semi happily in order. I guess ill find out.. Thanks for any and all information and input!!!

Hey just to add to this issue, You could have a turbo issue. Your wastegate side of things could be fine but if the turbo is seized or broken somehow you wont get boost. I would check the turbo and make sure everything is good there. A proper boost test is priority, but you may get a sealed system and still have a problem with the turbo, so if you can get the inlet off make sure you can spin it freely by hand and that the shaft play is in spec. Make sure your vacuum lines to the boost controller are correct and recheck. Even without the tuning side of things you should be able to build some type of boost. You have a mechanical issue right now so that needs fixed first.. Best of luck figuring it out.

sounds good! Ill see how it feels driving and post up if i have any further questions! Thanks again.

Hey Adam I got a chance to see how that map operates and I would like opinions on how it seems to act. I dont have a log yet but I have a short clip video. Map is the same as previous posted but ill add that as well. Please let me know if theres any particular adjustments I should be making to fuel or timing or if its just going to take playing around with from her on out.. Thanks again for the help. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=share_link Hey would you check and give me your opinion on my progress with this as well please. My previous post has a link to the current map and a short video of its operation. Would like opinions on how its doing as of now and what may need adjusted for the better. Thanks again for the input.

Hey thanks again. Thats kind of what I figured. Makes sense, a lot more air and fuel cut will read lean. I will not have a chance to test the operation of that new map for a few days but I will post if it seems to solve some of my issues. Next issue I will need to address is the power brakes. Ill be researching and installing an electric vacuum pump to supply the booster and setting this to run when antilag/cyclicis active. Thanks again..

Would this be a more typical operating map? Also in the fuel trim table,, Will I be able to see my actual lambda values or will this still read lean because of the antilag/cyclic operation. I still havent figured out if my lean afr with cyclic idle is normal or if i need to be adding more fuel. My lambda reads antilag lockout and my other wideband sensor just pegs 20.0 AFR. Thanks again for everything.. Really loving the support from everyone contributing to this forum.. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=sharing Hey thanks for your input. Its nice to know there are multiple ways of doing things in the motorsport world!!

Thanks Adam all of this makes sense. I have not input any values into the maps to see how it effects things. This was just a first time stationary test to see if the system would operate and run with cyclic idle. It does work so now I can start inputting values into the map and check functionality. Ill probably start with a softer version of the example maps that Link provides in the help section and go from there. Thanks again for the input! All is helpful.

Hey thanks again! I appreciate the info and I would rather hear from someone who actually has the experience of setting up competition vehicles vs just street vehicles. Thats what it is designed for so thats how I would like it to be set up. Im understanding it so far but still learning how and whereto adjust things. So your saying that I need to recalibrate the tps after I have the throttle plate kicked open? Basically telling the link that this is my new 0% throttle position, and go from there? I have not tried this yet but it makes sense, could be why the engine wanted to run away when I stabbed the throttle also.

!!!!! Just thought of something that might relate to my rpms wanting to run away. I did not recalibrate my TPS after I kicked the throttle open. Am I supposed to set this as the new 0% after I have the throttle kicked open? Or do I leave it as it was calibrated before kicking the throttle open?? Thanks all.

Hey Adam thanks for the input. It is confirmed that the car starts and runs with the throttle kicked from an off position. I was able to get the car running and operational but I would like someone to check my settings and confirm that seems to be correct. First thing I noticed, and this may just be the nature of operation,, but the afr is extremely lean. I assume this is the o2 sensor reading the intentional misfire caused with cyclic idle. If this is something that needs adjusted im not sure where to do so. I tried the antilag trim table as well as adding fuel in my standard map and afr stayed lean. Second thing is if i stab the throttle, the rpms want to run away all the way to redline even with release of the throttle, i have to shut off the car with the key to shut it down. so i need to figure out what needs adjusted there. And a final thing i noticed which again might just be the nature of operation, im hearing some backfire/popping through the intake, is this a normal cyclic idle thing or not. Thanks again for the help. Ill post up a link to a log,map,video of it running. My log does shop the rpm runaway at the end also. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=sharing

Hey thanks for the input. I could adjust with the factory bolt but its really a pain to get to and adjust, that was actually my first attempts. i replaced the existing throttle stop bolt with a longer one and it was just too much of a pain to adjust. So i made the bracket and screw to do the same job but is much easier to get to. I also didnt want to go with an electric throttle, I tried to find and purchase the vacuum actuated kickers but they are almost non existent nowdays. I figured the manual setup that i have created will operate the same but will just take a little extra effort to adjust by going under the hood and screwing it open. On the plus side i dont have to recalibrate the tps every time because it still has its original stop. Screw all the way in is 20%, all the way out is on the original stop so sensor stays calibrated at 0. I understand what you are saying about how you set up the cars with the manual stop though. Thankyou, that information is helpful. I did notice a mistake i had made earlier and i will make a change and attempt again when i get another chance to do so. Thanks again for the input!!!

Hey all, its been a minute. Link G4X PnP for 06' Evo IX. So im in process of getting some Group N style antilag working in my car and im having some setup issues. Probably because im just unfamilliar with the tuning/settings of it. First things first,, I have modified my Full Blown 70mm throttle body with a bracket and a screw basically, for a manual kicker adjustment. This means i actually have to go under the hood and turn the screw until it bottoms out on the bracket. I have this set to open the throttle plate exactly 20%. Ill post a link to pictures for anyone who wants to see how iv modified the throttle body cam and the bracket and screw. Now I tried to test this with cyclic idle this morning and the car would fire up and almost die instantly as if the cyclic idle is working but i dont have something set up correctly to where it stays running. Also i have not made any real adjustments to the map other than turn antilag ON with cyclic idle always on. Cyclic idle low limit was at 22 and high limit was at 24. These were just random values to see if the car would fire up. Fail.. So if anyone has any further input as to what i may be doing wrong i would appreciate the help as always. Another note, and this may be the issue.. I know antilag and lauch control cannot be active at the same time, I did have my launch control turned on while i did my tests and didnt remember until after i deemed it unsuccessful. If i turn off my launch control would it allow something different to operate? Another basic question that may be in relation,,, with the throttle kicked open at say 20%, with everything working as should. Should i be able to start the car from off with the throttle kicked and cyclic idle on and working? or does the car have to be running and then the throttle kicked and cyclic idle turned on? As soon as successful stationary testing is done i will be adding a vacuum pump to keep power brakes and setting this up to be fully functional antilag. Thanks again for any input!!! https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=sharing

Thankyou for the tip,, Ill give this a try and see if there's a difference on the street!

Hey all Link G4X plug and play here for evo 9. I just finished a solid wastegate tune on the dyno yesterday. Im having some issues with gear setup. Its probably something simple or something that I missed but I figured I would ask. So I have my vehicle speed set up. I went in to gear set up in "user defined" area and drove the car at 3k rpms on the dyno in each gear and then manually input the numbers into the gear ratio table. Everything stored and saved correctly. I noticed while doing my dyno pulls and tuning that the link was registering only 1st gear while I was in 4th gear doing my pulls, then as the pull finished and i left off the throttle to neutral the link registered 5th gear.. I tried to set this up with the ecu calculated part as well but i must have something wrong somewhere. Ill post up a log and a current map if anyone needs to see. Car is making 445/370 wheel on a mustang at 18psi with no boost control as of yet. AFR is great so far. Soon ill be adding some boost and timing, but its solid for now. A second question relating to gear set up and wheel speed, Is there a way to input the individual wheel speeds into the link plug and play unit. I know the evos have individual wheel speed sensors, I just dont know how to set up the individuals. I believe the vehicle actual speed is taken from a trans speed sensor. Anyways Thanks all for viewing and any help or input that is given. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=sharing

Just to add to this post if you have not fixed your issue yet.. Iv experienced similar issues and found that using another laptop with an older version of windows was the solution for me. Even still today my newer computer gives me issues with updating pclink and firmware, so i use an older computer and it sends the update without issues. If you still have issues maybe try a different computer. Best of luck..

I think what Adam is trying to say, is to trigger the first primary pump in the surge tank, when the fuel pump in the fuel tank starts working. This can be done easily with a relay. Both of these pumps will need to be running at the same time because the surge tank will need filled, as it is feeding your fuel rail. As far as the second pump in surge you can stage to come on a few different ways. Hope that clarifies something. Best of luck getting it set up!