castillaricardo

Yep, I can see them.

Upload the logs to a filesharing site like Google Drive or Dropbox and post a sharing link here. You might have hit your quota limit on the forum.

Those seem like normal numbers. The gauge reads psi on boost and inHg on vacuum. The ecu sees -9.7psi which is 19.7inHg at idle. Assuming your BAP is 14.6psi (MAP+abs(MGP)), your sensors seem to be working fine.

That sounds like an ignition cut that becomes ignition+fuel cut? As KO said, you’ll have to use the advanced settings and play with what feels best to your engine. I’m not a fan of ignition cuts only for the same reasons + catalysts. Using the advanced options you can use progressive fuel or ignition cut that becomes 100%ign+100%fuel cut. My launch control is set this way and I don’t get explosions, but I also veeery seldom use it and don’t hold it there for too long.

It should have the base map preloaded, but it wouldn't hurt to at least do a "Compare" to make sure. The function is under File > Compare.

Understood. Many thanks, Kris. Then I won't sweat it for now since I do have a fuel pressure warning feeding a GP RPM Limit

Thank you all for the replies. @koracing is correct, this is a gauge pressure sensor. I verified with Lowdoller when I purchased it last year because I was confused as well. @koracing, which instructions did you find for it? Even the specsheet they sent me with it didn't include this tidbit, I asked over the phone. It's good to have double validation here though. If I'm understanding correctly, something is slightly amiss with the fuel system then. The only other modification I can think of that may affect the pressure in the tank is that I capped off the purge line out of the tank. I'll remove the cap and retest later in the week. I suppose other than that, maybe a weak pump or failing regulator? I'm not excited to do either. Awesome. One less thing to stress over.

Hi all, I would like to understand if the fuel pressure behavior in my NB1 Mazda MX-5 is normal. This generation MX-5 has a returnless fuel system with the regulator in the tank and a target pressure of 400kPa/4bar. I have a fuel pressure sensor in the rail and the ECU uses it for compensations. It has a new fuel filter, and retrofitted OEM pulsation dampers to the fuel rail. It is the same as stock except for 550cc injectors and a different fuel rail. To my curiosity, the FP sensor has never registered 400kPa at idle, cruise or WOT. Even on the previous ECU it was always lower than 400kPa, but it seems to follow somewhat follow BAP changes. At the racetrack BAP is ~83kPa, and FP was around 377kPa at WOT. Through the mountains around 73kPa BAP, FP was 371kPa at WOT. The data makes it seem like the FP is related to barometric pressures in this setup. Is this normal since the regulator is in the tank and referenced to BAP, not MAP? I'm using the following sensor, and the linear calibration provided by the company: https://lowdoller-motorsports.com/collections/pressure-sensors/products/0-100-psi-5v-pressure-sensor Another related question. When using Fuel System Type = FP Sensor, does the ECU need a 3D table for injector deadtime referencing Differential Fuel Pressure, or a 2D table with voltage only? Currently I have it setup as a 3D table with differential pressure and battery voltage because that's how I interpreted the help file, but I'm not clear if it is performing double compensations as a result. Thank you in advance, Ricardo There are two logs in this directory to show what I mean: "ECU Log 2023-04-29 7;47;26 pm_TA2" is from trackday and "ECU Log 2023-04-28 7;42;36 pm_MountainScoot" is a drive through the mountains. https://1drv.ms/f/s!Amu_1gWOWFlvmzvylI-WYSu8K6wN?e=rlfFfh

The main thing is to use TPS as the load axis in your Fuel, Ignition and Lambda Target tables. Generally use high resolution at the lower throttle openings for the Fuel Table (e.g 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 60, 80, 100), a little less is needed for ignition, and AFR table is up to you. Since you don't have a MAP sensor, you should set Equation Load Source to BAP. Fuel Equation mode is up to you and how much data you have available. The help page has good information on this. Injector Timing is important for fine tuning. It can reduce fuel consumption and help with transients at part throttle. The angle depends on the design of the intake manifold, angle of injectors and distance between injectors and valves. The consensus seems to be to use the number that gives the richest condition for your chosen RPMs and re-adjust the fuel table. I use a 2D table for this.

Either the TPS/MAP delta being absolute or separate minimum lockouts for negative transient events would be nice to force CLL to enter a reactivation delay. If it's covered by the wall wetting function then that's great. In that case, could we get some more info about wall wetting on the help file? How Link uses it and what it looks like once properly tuned? Awesome! If you need more testers I would be glad to help.

Would either of these wishlist items be in the next release? I would be happy to test them

Good to know! I haven't been using transient ignition trim either and only saw one instance of knock at the track during a big downshift, so I left it alone. I guess with the new trigger this should be all gone now. @Adamw Thank you for sharing an example and giving details on each aspect. It certainly helps to know what to expect as normal. What made me look at the idle ignition was that the engine felt different and there were more vibrations at idle. I'll try D=0 and increase P as you said, but I feel better knowing there isn't an issue caused by the new trigger. 900% more resolution?! I hadn't thought about it that way, but going from 90 degrees per tooth, to ~10 degrees is a big jump. Cheers! Thank you both!

Hi all, Is it common or expected to lower the proportional and derivative gains of the idle timing control when switching to a higher resolution trigger wheel? Since I switched from a 4 tooth to a 36-2 trigger wheel in my MX-5 I noticed that the idle timing control became very erratic with constant jumps to max timing. I had to lower the control to P=0.4 and D=0.07 to make it behave close to how it used to work with P=2, D=0.5 with the 4 tooth wheel. So is this fine, or do I have an odd issue showing up this way? Logs: https://1drv.ms/f/s!Amu_1gWOWFlvmzvylI-WYSu8K6wN?e=NxtOGx Tunes: https://1drv.ms/f/s!Amu_1gWOWFlvmziL60snegeHxf7M?e=OC9nSc Ricardo

Nice! Do you mind posting engine bay and interior pictures?

If it's idling that high with 0 throttle and no IACV, then there must be an air leak somewhere or the throttles are opened too much. Have the ITBs been synced? Have you adjusted the idle screw? As Adam said, you need a solid TPS signal. Your An Volt 2 (TPS) is showing 0.63V, but your calibration says closed voltage is 0.95V. The log shows the ECU was commanding 32 degrees BTDC around the 3000RPM area, and if you're seeing 15 then you need to calibrate the trigger offset. Do you have a Lambda sensor installed? If so, it isn't configured.

Good thing I double checked. My offset turned out to be -24 and not -8! We can call the 36-2 install complete, and I'll get that NB2 motor installed in a couple of months. Thank you all for your assistance!

The car runs! The offset seems to be -8 for me, but I need to retest once the battery is properly charged. It seems I drained it in a bad way cranking this much. About the timing light: Yes, I put a spark plug wire between the coil and plug and clamped the light to it. Using an older timing light worked no problem, so mine is no good. Yep, that's the correct altitude here. A drive around here sees anywhere between 5,350ft and 10,300ft in one sitting!

I haven’t but will do once I rule out my timing light as a problem later tonight or tomorrow. Maybe Vaughan or Adamw could answer what the reference point is. Thank you. I’ll certainly do as recommended when I get a chance.

Sure. Here is a trigger scope and log of it cranking this morning: https://1drv.ms/f/s!Amu_1gWOWFlvmzvylI-WYSu8K6wN?e=pMfFJx

My map is here: https://1drv.ms/f/s!Amu_1gWOWFlvmziL60snegeHxf7M?e=E3iobc The car ran with the stock 4 tooth trigger. I just changed to a 36-2 yesterday but haven't started the engine because the timing light isn't working well, so I don't know if my offset is correct. Since the trigger wheel is similar to Vaughn's I'm going to assume the offset is close, or 360 degrees out, please let me know if my assumption is wrong. This is still on the NB1 engine and it runs sequential COPs, which is complicating things a little. I didn't worry about taking a scope log because the triggers synced as I cranked (with Fuel set to off), but could take one tomorrow if I still can't get the new timing light to work. Thanks for willing to assist. I did try 0 and 360 offset, but neither showed the timing mark. I will try again tomorrow. Thank you!

@Vaughan any chance you could double check your trigger wheel has the gap on the intake side when at TDC? The ECU has sync when cranking with Fuel off but my timing light isn’t working again. I’m going to borrow a timing light in a couple of days but would like to know the offset is in the ballpark.

Awesome. Thank you both for the information. I'm going to install a Supermiata 36-2 trigger wheel and the missing teeth seem to be in the same place as the skidnation one, so it should be around the same as yours.

Hi all. I'm gathering information to swap a Mazda MX5 NB2 VVT engine into my NB1, and I would like to run a 36-2 crank trigger wheel. Does the G4X support this configuration? If so, could you show me how to properly configure the trigger settings? Thank you, Ricardo

I've had it happen within a single session and across multiple drives. The last time it happened it took over an hour for it to happen. I notice the problem when I open the downloads window to read logs after a drive. I haven't been able to read logs after this happens with any combinations of restarting PCLink, the ECU, closing the downloads window, etc. The only way I can start recording and downloading new logs is by "Delete All" and restarting the ECU. I can start doing PC Logs and ECU logs together to try and catch it when it happens but don't have any to share at the moment, sorry. Are you able to see the email I sent support yesterday? I'm happy to paste it here if not. I sent screenshots and videos along a description of when and how it happened.

That looks like the TPS off an NB Miata definitely not working right, so that’s your issue.