Simon

That is a worry as the plugin is geared to accept a stock wiring loom. Your ECU has just 3 connectors?

Windows XP through to Windows 8 can all work with PC link software

Given you only have a point A and a point B figure using the Cal 4-6 option is the correct way to go.

Hi Peter This can be done you just need to set one of the 4D axis to be the AN Temp channel that you have set up for fuel temp.

Hi Chris A stand alone for that price point is not likely to happen as there just wouldn't be enough margin to make it viable. Given the limited volumes. If we were pumping out thousands of them then maybe. What is more likely is building it in to the ECU so it takes the sensor direct.

Yes all Aux outputs will be ground switching. The AUX1 is wired to both pins so will need to check that both are disconnected.

You will need power to the solenoid that is Key switched. The other side needs to wire to a free Aux output. These will be on the main ECU header not normally through the XS loom.

Normal solenoid frequency for boost control is 25Hz

TPS is on the 2nd biggest connector. Pin #68 Looking in from wire side it is The Right hand most connector Bottom row 5 from the right.  Â

It only looks at the 0-5V signal the idle switch is not used at all. The TPS should move with the voltage displaying 10 at idle/ closed throttle and up to 100ish at full throttle Have you tried a reload?

It the TPS is not reading 10 (closed throttle) then the idle control will be locked out. It could be that the TPS has been set up on a car that had the 5V and ground swapped. It could be worth doing a full reload to start from a known point.

The answer in this case is due to the engine being run ignition only (has a dirty carb due to class rules) and our system is replacing an electromotive system which the trigger was changed to suit.

Hi No the ECU is not able to take serial data in. The serial and USB coms are purely for data our or PC link tuning. If serial is in use the USB is not able to be used at the same time. Â

Should be 4.Â

Main thing to remember is if you type the number make sure you hit the enter key after.

I would be suspicious that the power is not being totally removed from the ECU at key off. Check the 12V supply at the ECU headder drops to 0 volts at key off. The fuel pump drive is driven off a mosfet controlled directly from the main micro. Normally the area that gives issues is the actual soldering of the main header to the board on the ECU. Over time the joins crack due to the weight of the loom on the connector. The Ignition 3 wire is normally the tacho output. Attached is the matching manual for that ECU

See attached

If you could Email the map to [email protected] we will try on the bench to see if it is the same.

Yep get it on its way and we will take a look.

Do the temp sensor readings for engine and air temp stay correct? Suspect the signal is being pulled higher than 5V this could due to a 12 volt supply being connected to the 5V out.

Yes sure can. It works very well for applications using a restrictor such as rally applications.

Hi James Have flicked you an email. But I suspect the trigger 1 signal is not making it all the way back to the ECU all the time. Best check to do would be to scope the signal right at the ECU header. Suspect we might have a broken wire to the sensor. Could be the power ground or signal wire.

Yes it can control boost based off RPMÂ

Hi Best bet will be to use TPS for the main fuel and ignition table and then use a 4D MAP based overlay to trim as required Also if you use the AFR target table overlay and have it spanned off MAP.  The G4 has idle ignition control. Make sure you are on the most recent firmware. Â

Its mainly to avoid people using the old school coils geared to be driven off Points.