Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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1 hour ago, taku said:
is it possible to use the wiring method as shown in the figure
Yes.
1 hour ago, taku said:I'm planning to buy a kit that uses the ATI damper pulley
Have a look at the "Taarks" items from EFI solutions in Australia, they sell the cam trigger kit, crank trigger kit and balancer as 3 separate items but generally in total it works out slightly better price than Ross performance or Mazworks and they are still good quality kits. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/performance-parts/engine-management/cam-crank-trigger-kits/
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Im pretty sure pin 1 is Aux 7 - assuming you have our supra plug-in, so set aux 7 to ISC solenoid, turn off Aux 5/6/8. You can temporarily set aux 7 to "Test PWM" at 15Hz to confirm it is actually connected to aux 7 (you should hear it clicking in test mode if you have the right one).
I would suggest 120Hz for that valve, it is from a ford V8 and they use 120Hz standard.
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Is there something else connected to the bus? "Bus off error" means the ecu has disabled the bus as the transmit error has exceeded the max allowed errors.
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Can you check if there is 12V on the Green/Yellow wire going into the pressure switch when you switch AC on/off (with AC Clutch relay unplugged), if it looks good there then check you the same coming out of the yellow/green wire that goes to pin 45. It sounds like possibly your gas press is low so the press switch is open.
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Further, Aux 1-10 are pulled up to regulated 12V by 1.5Kohm. Aux 1-10 are flywheeled.
Ignition and injector drives are effectively open collector, not flywheeled. The ign drives do actually have a very weak 6V pull-up effect coming from the fault checking circuit as you have found, this is often enough to drive very low current signals like SSR's etc without adding an external pull-up.
The RX7 plug-ins dont have the high side drive chip on Aux 5-8, low side only.
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The ECU should have no trouble reading them but I suspect you will have trouble finding accurate calibration info for them.
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I would expect the speedo has a built-in pull-up if it was originally designed for a hall effect sensor, but does turning on the pull-up make any difference?
If that is not the problem then can you put a volt meter on the signal wire going to the ecu (other probe on gound) and either rotate a rear wheel slowly by hand or pull the sensor out and rotate slowly by hand, and tell us what the 2 voltages shown are. It should step from something close to zero volts and 5 or 12V.
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If you have the aux output set to "ISC Solenoid" rather than "ISC Stepper", then the 4wire/6wire setting is irrelevant and has no influence. When in ISC solenoid mode the base position table and the Idle position runtime are duty cycle, you can think of them as "percent open".
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They are all auto trans arent they? If so Im not sure a piggyback would be a good option, if you have the link ecu controlling ignition you wont have any torque reduction for gear shifts and idle control will be a bit shit with the factory ecu controlling the throttle and the Link controlling the ignition, typically these functions need to be tightly woven for idle control.
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I have never seen an ITB engine give consistent lambda when using MAP or MGP as the fuel table load reference, - and that is without the complication of VVT added. MAP just doesnt seem to be a good indicator of airflow when it is not coming from a large single plenum. On GTR's etc where I have experimented with MAP in the past, under some driving conditions like the start of a hill you might open the throttle from say 20% to 40% to maintain speed and you will barely see a change in MAP but it will go dead lean as the throttle slowly opens so obviously air flow has changed but MAP just doesnt always reflect that.
So if you haven't already tried, I would start again using the suggested alpha-N + MAP with open loop target correction. Use fine TP breakpoint increments at small throttle openings and you can spread them out at larger openings. I usually start with something like 0,2,5,8,11,15,20,30,50,70,100 and only add more if there is some area between 2 rows that doesnt track well. Tune the fuel table on the lowest boost setting, then try it on the highest to see how well lambda follows target. In some cases if the turbine is restrictive at high boost or there is some other factor causing a significant reduction of efficiency at high boost then it will drift rich, in those cases you have to enable a 4D table with MAP or MGP on its axis and just pull a little fuel out in the areas it drifts rich.
I haven't done many ITB engines with VVT though - an RB26 with the VCam and an S54, but I dont remember needing to do anything special with 4D tables etc to keep mixture in an acceptable ballpark with vvt movement.
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Yes that would be a high voltage tach. You can use a "tacho booster" between the aux and the tacho or you will probably find info online showing how to modify the tacho to work with a 12V signal if you are game.
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On 3/14/2023 at 7:16 PM, taku said:
do you have any recommended trigger kits?
I dont have a good suggestion sorry. Most of them I know of need to use an aftermarket ATI damper so are very expensive.
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What model car, and what is the application/goal?
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Do you have a powertune dash? It should work set up as per their manual. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0036/0615/1235/files/Custom_stream_setup_LINK.pdf?v=1620629266
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You dont need to load a stream, just set the mode to transmit generic dash. All devices on the bus can read the same stream, you dont need to set up two.
Having said that I dont think generic dash would be very useful to a PDM anyhow, typically for a PDM you would just send a few CAN auxes for things like fuel pump request, fan request etc.
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Looking at the wiring diagram I can see a possible scenario that could cause this. I suspect the 12V pull-up on Aux 2 could pass through the AC clutch relay coil and keep DI1 high. DI1 does have a pull-down on it to overcome this but some possibilities like an aftermarket relay with a lower resistance coil or missing diode could potentially trip it up. Can you try unplugging the AC Compressor relay, then check if DI1 state then changes correctly with the AC switch. If that works the easy fix will be to move the AC clutch wire over to a spare Ign or Inj output instead of an aux.
An explanation of the circuit: The AC request signal comes from the "AC control unit" at top right, it will be 0V when off, 12V when on. It feeds through the triple press switch then down to pin 45/DI1. You will notice just below the triple press switch the AC request signal splits off to supply 12V to the AC clutch relay coil at the same time. The problem is, when AC is off, there will be a weak 12V coming out of Aux2 (pin 22) due to its pull-up resistor, this could be enough to pass through the relay coil and keep the AC request signal going to DI1 high.
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Are we talking about a "genuine" S50B30 with ITB's, or the S50B30US with a single throttle? I assume the ITB one since I think the US only had the M50TU style on/off vanos.
If ITB, can you attach a copy of your tune so I can see how the fuel is set up?
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Yeah we have a similar drawing but the internal schematic of the switch didnt make a lot of sense without knowing what position it was drawn in and how it mechanically works.
So according to the notes above, the schematic must be drawn in the "ON" position, OFF would be the lower set of contacts on the 3 pole switch and Res would be the upper contacts. The Set button would be the lower independent switch in the schematic. How does the switch mechanically work - does it latch in OFF or ON but only momentary/spring return for Res?
- pin 38 would have 12V all the time, in all three switch positions. Not sure what that does but our ecu wouldnt need it.
- pin 76 would have 12V in ON and RES positions, this would be the "Cruise On" input.
- pin 75 would have 12V only in the RES position, this would be the resume input.
- Pin 57 would have 12V only when the SET button is pressed, this would be the SET input.
- There is no cruise cancel switch, a bit odd but I guess you have to use the brake pedal?
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Yes the brake switch and clutch switch if fitted will still be used as lockouts for CC.
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MGP is already in there.
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On 3/13/2023 at 2:34 AM, ellisd1984 said:
Anything I would think to try in setting up would just trigger a fault on start up.
Trigger a fault where?
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Yeah give us the map and log.
Setup 2 wire IACV
in G4+
Posted
120Hz as I said above. If it doesnt click in test mode then it is likely not aux 7, try the others.