Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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This doesnt really sound like the bootloader problem. The bootloader issue did not occur very often and was pretty difficult to reproduce.
Can you pull the lid off the case and have a look at the two LED's. When the ecu boots normally you will see a quick flash on the CE light first, then the power LED will come on. When the bootloader problem occurs the CE light will get "stuck on", and the power LED will never come on.
So a normal power up will look like the pic below, a boot failure will be the opposite, the CE light will be on solid and the power LED will be off.
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Thats the correct pin. There are actually 2 different families of terminals specified for these connectors, a Kostal MLK and the TE MCON, they look quite different but are interchangeable - just in case you have seen someone else selling a different terminal. They should push in quite easy with an audible (barely) click when the barb latches in.
A couple of comments: The crimping needs to be relatively nicely done and the wire needs to be thin wall 0.5mm or smaller. The blue secondary lock on the front needs to be pushed over to the side when you are inserting. The barb on the terminal needs to point to the "outside" which means the top and bottom row are different. I'll try to make a pic below to explain. What are you using to crimp them with?
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Can you share the log and map.
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Yes, with engine kill active there will be no spark or fuel. This is because DI1 Ignition switch input is off. If this is not connected in your loom then set DI1 function to off and also turn off ECU Hold Power function on Injector drive 8.
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Yeah I think it will need to come back sorry.
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Your wiring is correct. No video attached but assuming the volt meter still showed the same 13V with something steel/iron in front of the sensor then yes the sensor is dead. The 1K pull-up is fine, those sensors are rated to sink 20mA and that resistor would be about 13mA.
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I think the idle valve is possibly working backwards. Can change idle control to open loop mode, then with it idling, see if increasing the base position increases RPM or decreases it.
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It sounds like it. The signal wire should be pulled down to near 0V when you have metal in front of it.
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Any tooth will work.
But... If you temporarily install the dizzy, turn the engine to TDC#1 compression stroke, mark the tooth that's closest to pointing at the sensor, keep this one, remove the others. Then this will mean later when you are ready to start your trigger offset will be somewhere near zero which may make life easier.
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Yes you will need to remove 3 teeth from the top wheel. 24T is trig 1, single tooth to trig 2. Yes, the common wire goes to sensor ground.
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That would sound more like a back feed from an aux output. Unplug anything you have connected to aux outputs to see if it then powers down.
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It doesnt look like you have done the cam angle calibration. Run the engine at fast idle and set the cam angle test to calibration, it will populate the tooth offset table then turn itself back to off if successful. Cam position should be working then. I would also suggest you set the RPM lock out and ECT lockout to something more appropriate. Usually around 1200RPM where there is stable oil press and around 60°C where oil viscosity is starting to become thin enough to work.
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Can you attach a copy of your ecu map and PDM config.
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Ethanol content needs to come from a frequency signal, not analog. Connect the signal wire of the flex sensor to a DI, you will then get ethanol content and temp through the one input and that will give you a spare AN Temp and AN Volt input.
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Yeah thats an odd one, I dont remember seeing this before. Do you know what firmware it is on now? That looks like you might have windows 11, which is not widely tested with G4+, do you have access to a win 10 or older laptop you could borrow to try?
Failing that, I would try powering it up on the bench just to eliminate backfeeds or possibilities of any other wiring issues having an influence. You only need 12V on pin A5 and ground on A34 to power up.
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Set triggermode to Mazda MX5 NB 36-2 should be all you need to do. The trigger offset should be in the ballpark if your 36-2 wheel was made by flying Miata, if it is from some other company then likely not. Regardless it needs to be checked with a timing light.
For the VVT, set it to MX5 VVYi mode assign the input to trig 2 and the correct aux for the output. Warm the engine up, hold it at about 2000rom and set the cam angle test to calibrate, it should turn itself off after a few seconds if successful.
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A couple of basic examples below.
I have set button 1 up as a "simple button", I'll use this to enable launch control. I have set up button 2 as an "increment button", I'll use this to step through 5 different boost levels.
For the simple button you just need to assign any unused CAN DI, I have chosen CAN DI 1. You need to enable the latch on CAN DI 1 (so it is one push for ON, another push for off). Set your launch activation control to the chosen CAN DI. In the simple button settings, the "Input On LED State" setting allows you to choose what colour the button is when on.
For the boost button, set it up and an increment button, max value to how many values you want and assign a CAN An for the input. The "Increment button LED States" table allows you to specify a different colour for each boost setting. The CAN AN value will be 0 at power up, each button press with increment it by 1. Once it reaches 4, if you push again it returns to 0. You can then put your CAN AN on one axis of your boost table or use it to switch between different tables etc.
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It is not an ecu settings issue. Sync tooth and edge will have no influence, sync edge is only used for VVT and both rising and falling edges are fine for hall sensors with trigger wheels where the teeth are all the same size.
As I have already said above your problem is the disappearing trigger 2 signal. The trigger scope hardware is independent of the ecu, so when you have both the scope showing no signal and the ecu saying there is no signal, then you can be pretty confident there is no signal reaching the ecu.
The sensor for whatever reason is not seeing the single sync magnet of the opposite magnetic pole. Whether it is a magnet issue, alignment issue, wiring issue or sensor issue you will have to try to eliminate yourself. If the alignment looks good and there is nothing odd going on like runout of the wheel or cam end-float etc, then I would remove that trigger wheel so you can test outside of the engine underneath the sensor without cranking etc. I would also get another small rare earth magnet and check the north and south magnets have still have equal pull/push - niobium magnets can demagnetize themselves at quite low temperatures around ~80°C.
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That should be using the MX5 OBD2 trigger mode as per the NB1 base map. The scope appears to match that pattern, although it looks like the cam timing is possibly a bit different to normal. Did you try that mode?
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AN Temp 2 maybe available since your IAT is on Temp 4? Otherwise AN Volt 3 or 6.
As for the trim pot it will depend a bit on where you are in the world as you dont want shipping to cost more than the part. If in USA then the avio ones are nice for cost: https://www.avioraceusa.com/product/miniature-rotary-switch-12-position-finished/. Knobs are separate: https://www.avioraceusa.com/product/switch-knob-aluminum-red/
Otherwise AEM and Haltech have them, not as pretty.
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That should be fine. For the ethanol sensor just go to >digital inputs>Ethanol sensor, assign the source , ensure the pull-up is on and the active edge is rising. You will then have working ethanol % and temperature. From there the whole fuel model will have to be set up and tuned if the intent of the sensor is flex fuel functionality.
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Do you just command a desired cam position/lift ratio and the VVEL controller takes care of all the PID, or does the ECU do all the PID and just communicates a forward/back DC to the controller?
Auto trans I would say is a no unless by coincidence they use the same CAN messages as the VQ35 350Z auto.
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Hmm, I remember on the last ITB porsche I tuned (I think it was a Jenvey kit), I had to cut one of the supplied linkages up and shift one of the levers around to get a better angle or pull or something. That was a couple of years ago so it is pretty vague now but I think it was really touchy down low and didnt get full throttle either. Im just mentioning that in case your TPS issue is mechanical rather than electrical. So make sure the mechanical action looks good before wasting time on sensors and wires.
Yeah, a single wire temp sensor is not a good option for an ecu. The calibration must be wrong too though, no way that oil is 200°C.
can keypad boost setup
in G4x
Posted
The GP boost table could be used to adjust what is being commanded by the blended tables.