Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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You likely have DI7/8/9/10 on the expansion connectors. DI6 can be used but it would 12V from the switch.
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Use a cal table, set input units to ohms, output units to temperature. Go to the table then right click>import/export>import from file, choose the attached .lte. It should look like below when done.
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If you are sure the timing light shows the correct timing with the offset at 114 then either that or 360 earlier at -246 is correct.
However, I just done a quick search for "M42" on the forum and the first map from a running M42 I found has the offset at -114, so I would be suspicious your 114 is not correct.
Would need to see the trigger scope to confirm what sync mode you need. Does your engine have dumb coils?
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I done a G4+ a few years ago with most of the dash working using user CAN streams. There is a copy of the G4+ map here:
G4X CAN scaling has changed a bit for some parameters, but start by manually copying the CAN settings into your G4X map and then for anything that doesnt work look up the parameter in the CAN test calculator in both G4+ and G4X to see what has changed, you then just need to adjust offset of multiplier to make the G4X match what the G4+ was sending out.
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You dont need the user stream, so your existing ecu CAN setup looks ok except I would change the transmit rate to 20Hz. Also check that your ecu firmware is at least V5.6.6.3593, earlier versions wouldnt have the MXS stream.
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16 hours ago, Adamw said:
So what ecu do you have? What CAN port is the dash wired to?
What ecu stream do you have set up in the dash?
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The CAN devices tool is for re-programming Link CAN devices, it has no knowledge of and is not looking for any third party devices.
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DI 6 has a pull-down on it to work with the factory AC switch. DI10 should work provided you have a V1.6 or later bottom board. The non-ethrottle boards didnt have DI10.
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Restore to factory settings does not clear the statistics. Only the Clear function.
The engine is considered running when the RPM is above 400RPM. A start would be counted any time the RPM goes from 0 to >400.
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So what ecu do you have? What CAN port is the dash wired to? Is it a Link branded dash or a generic Aim one? Can you attach a copy of your tune.
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DBW config
in G4x
9 hours ago, dx4picco said:I guess not closing the throttle allows to keep a higher turbine shaft speed compared to a blow off valve setup (slower shaft speed decrease)
How do you come to that conclusion though? If half the shaft speed comes from heat, with an open throttle and 100% fuel cut you are now not adding any heat, the turbine is still consuming heat the whole time and to make matters worse you are now pushing cold exhaust gas through the manifold and turbine removing further stored energy. I would argue the loss of all that heat would exceed any increase in energy you may get from increasing mass flow.
9 hours ago, dx4picco said:combined with the higher intake air pressure (still <BAP or close, but not 15kpa overrun) you get better throttle response when picking up the throttle out of a corner.
You still need to close the throttle before you can add the fuel back in. Manifold pressure at the time you want to reintroduce power will be no different.
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Trig 1 & 2 are swapped over. Assuming this is a GTR plug-in ecu you can just change the DIP switches on the adapter board to swap trig1 and 2 over.
The settings all look ok.
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Ok, assuming your original ecu pinout looks like this one: http://northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/2000ecu1.jpg it is a bit of an odd one that im not all that familiar with.
The main relay looks simple enough - The ign sw signal was originally pin B135-7, the main relay trigger is pin B135-19, you can just connect these 2 wires together, they dont need to connect to the ecu at all. The Main power supply from the main relay was originally B136-1 and B136-2, these are the wires that you need to use to power the Link ECU.
The tacho will work fine, the tacho signal was originally B134-30, connect this to any spare aux output (not an ign or inj drive aux).
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Would this car originally have had a 3 plug ecu (like our WRX4), 4 plug (WRX6) or 5 plug (like WRX9)?
Most Subarus have a 12V low current "ign switch" signal that comes into the ecu, then the ecu sends a 12V trigger signal out to the main relay coil, then the main relay switches on and supplies the main ecu power and other devices. Typically this main relay control would be done with a small extra circuit rather than complicating it by trying to make the ecu do it.
If its original ecu was similar to one of our subaru plug-in ecus then I will be able to suggest the easiest way to do that.
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DBW config
in G4x
I've come across this guy's videos before and they are usually reasonably accurate, but in this case Im not entirely convinced he has it right - or perhaps he has missed some important part of the strategy out? If I search "Porsche Dynamic Boost" pretty much all articles are linking to the same video and quoting the same "facts".
A strategy that is fundamentally very similar to what this man describes has been used in the higher end motorsports for 10years or more, often named "pre-blip" or "blip in advance" or similar and I have never seen any mention of it improving turbo response - in fact I have probably seen it more commonly used on NA engines. The purpose of pre-blip is to improve the timing and abruptness of the torque reversal for a quicker and higher success rate downshift. When the driver lifts off the throttle, it is only partially closed and fuel is completely cut, when a downshift is requested the fuel is momentarily re-instated so you get near-instant torque reversal since you are not waiting for a throttle to open and the manifold to fill with air etc, this method allows you to time the torque reversal more accurately to occur at the right instant within the shift sequence. There are a few issues however; firstly even at say 25-30%TP you have already lost nearly all engine braking effect. Secondly, the power reintroduction becomes quite tricky, obviously, you cant just turn the fuel back on as you would go from 0% torque to 100% torque in 1 engine cycle. You need to first almost close the throttle before you can re-introduce fuel, so that the driver has some chance of driving out of the corner etc. There needs to be quite a few rules controlling when it is time to close the throttle, in the motorsport ecu's I have used it is often timers and lat G etc, but you have to adjust these for each track depending how long the car is off throttle for etc. Given these Porsche's are probably mostly PDK gearboxes that need accurately timed shift events, they have paddle shift, they have long intake runners and two large plenums (poor blip response), my thoughts are this so called "dynamic boost" strategy is possibly just a blip strategy?
A further question that fuels my scepticism: I've always heard a general rule that a turbocharger turbine makes its shaft power from roughly an equal share of heat energy Vs mass flow/kinetic energy. Is the extra mass flow that you gain from opening the throttle (and remember you are now pumping cold air through the manifold/turbine etc) really going to make more energy than what you would have had with a normal closed throttle condition but when there is still combustion/expansion/heat doing work? I have some doubts...
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I just done a quick test on the bench, the aux test PWM function doesnt actually work when the VVT system is set to S52 mode, the auxes must be linked together in the software when in this mode. So to test the auxes you have to temporarily set the VVT mode to off, then you can try Test PWM on each aux.
I still dont see the reason for the position error on the intake cam. Can you do another short log with the cam angle test set to LH intake and give it a few revs to where the error normally occurs.
What do you have for coils and ignitors on this engine?
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In a fuel press regulator you have the spring and atmosphere on one side of the diaphragm balancing fuel pressure on the other side. Therefore the fuel pressure should always be the same "gauge pressure" above the reference (BAP) - it shouldn't vary with BAP, it should always be say 400Kpa above BAP. It works the same way with a manifold pressure reference also - FP should always be the same gauge pressure above the reference pressure (MGP).
For your deadtime question - yes you should use differential press on one axis if you have that info.
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Contact [email protected] with the story, they can either contact the dealer on your behalf to get the unlock or they can get approval to retrieve the unlock.
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Yeah changing the offset shouldnt prevent it from sparking, sometimes if the plug is firing into the cyl at the wrong time, the lack of pressure in there means the spark voltage is lower than normal so the timing light doesnt trigger. Pull a plug out to visually confirm there is a spark.
You have something fishy with your wiring though, when you crank many of the 5V sensors read wrong, the MAP goes to 120kpa, TPS jumps up to 10%, gear position voltage changes, ECT and IAT both change a little etc. So I would suspect possibly a weak ground?
If it is showing signs of trying to go that would usually mean not enough fuel or not enough advance. For the fuel, just use the master fuel setting initially, make a big change - like add 50% to see if it makes it better or worse. To try more advance just add a little to the trigger offset - say 10% to see if it makes it better or worse.
3 hours ago, RTRT said:BTW, this was "fixed" by using traditional fuel equation instead of modeled, since i guessed most of the fuel/ignition table numbers.
No the active/inactive flashing was because of your incorrect trigger setting, The ecu would have lost position and reset every revolution since it was expecting 24T but there are only 22, it turns off fuel and spark until it resyncs.
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Yes, you need to contact your dealer as the note says, they have to generate the unlock code for you. You can still set everything up, but the engine wont run until unlocked.
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No, must be a minimum of 2.0V span. Can you tell me the resistance between red and black, and black and yellow and both fully extended and fully retracted.
Link Thunder with E888 CAN Bug
in G4+
Posted
You have two devices writing to the same parameter. The E888 from memory has 8 egt's, 8 analog inputs and 4 digital inputs, so it will be writing to CAN TC1-8, CAN ANVolt 1-8 and CAN DIG 1-4. But you also have the switchboard writing to CAN AN Volt 1 and CAN Dig 1.
So you could change the CAN DIG to something >4 or one of the native DI functions, but you are out of CAN AN Volt channels and there are not a lot of native ones to choose from.