Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Yes that will be fine.
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What devices do you want to power from your ADIO?
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I would use 8K for a EJ207. Attached is a spectrograph from our EJ205. Frequency is the Y axis, you can see at 7, 7.5 or 15K there is not a clear difference between knocking and not knocking, at 8-9K it is much easier to see. 8K works good in our car.
- koracing, jsbsti and DenisAlmos
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10 hours ago, Ryno said:
Speedlock out turned off (idle was raising to 1400 ish when car was moving at slow speeds)
This is your main problem, causing what Kris describes in his first sentence. The purpose of the speed lockout is to stop the idle control winding the valve closed when you are rolling up to a stop in overrun.
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For a generic multi-tooth/missing trigger mixed with OEM cam pattern you will likely need to use cam window or cam level sync. Or it may be a close enough match to one of the other OEM 60-2 based trigger modes. The cam sensor needs to be wired to trigger 2 then give us a trigger scope capture at idle with the vvt solenoid unplugged and we can advise on the sync set-up with that.
2 hours ago, Wanderer said:the only thing right now i'm unsure of is my technique of using the "absolute vvt position menu" to check if the cam moves
You don't even need the ecu to see if the VVT works or not, if the cam moves you will instantly add an extra 40deg of overlap to the valve events at idle, it will either stall straight away or by some miracle it may continue to run (barely) but it will be very obvious something significant has changed. You can even take the ecu and wiring out of the picture completely and just connect 12V and ground straight to the solenoid from the battery when it is idling to confirm.
Check that you have adequate oil pressure at idle with the VVT activated also, some engines dont.
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attach a copy of your tune and dash config.
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Is there a question? We need the tune file that was in use when the logs were made also.
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There are no fault codes and your AN Volt 2 is reporting the correct voltage in the log. So it looks like you just haven't recalibrated the TPS after changing the throttle or fixing whatever caused the incorrect voltage.
The "running rough" is just because overrun fuel cut is bouncing on and off. This is because the throttle is sitting in its natural disabled position.
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A Clio isnt 60-2, it is an odd 60-1+1-1, you need to use Clio 3RS VVT trigger mode with the cam sensor connected to trigger 2. It needs 720 sync for VVT control.
You also need to use an aux output for the VVT solenoid as injector drives have no free-wheeling diode so they will give poor response when driving a PWM solenoid (slow to close). But this wouldnt stop the cam from moving if you were using "Test ON" mode though, the solenoid should be fully open so the cam should slam to full advance instantly. So it sounds like there is a mechanical or electrical issue if you dont hear the crash as the actuator hits the mechanical stop and the engine runs very rough when you set the drive to test mode.
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21 minutes ago, Swift said:
I have peak and hold injectors and as per instructions the injectors are hot wired from the battery switch and the ecu switches them.
If its a red G4 this is fine, if its the earlier silver one with P&H drivers then they can backfeed just like an aux.
22 minutes ago, Swift said:I also have two normal bulbs running through aux channels. Ce light and shift light. Any issues there? Cheers
Provided they only have 12V when the ignition switch is on they are fine.
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1 hour ago, BeallJK said:
Adam - are the GM Throttle Body Settings (above) applicable to Nissan as well?
No.
1 hour ago, BeallJK said:My AN2 Voltage Main is stuck at 1.00volt and status is 'Input at 0v/gnd'
This means the voltage on the AN volt 2 pin is below the "Error low" that you have set on AN Volt 2 (0.05v in out base map), so it is defaulting to the error value which looks like it is set to 1.00V. So start by measuring the voltage on pin 4 of the throttle body, if you have 0V there then the TPS has died, if it is outputting the expected ~0.5V then you have a disconnection between here and the ANVolt 2 pin at the ecu.
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59 minutes ago, Swift said:
But the aux 8 is to 85. Ignition to 86. Live feed from 12 v supply to 30. Innovate to 87.
Yes, I understand this much. What Im getting at is if the relay is staying energised, then it must still have current flowing through its coil after the ignition switch is off. For that to happen it means pin 86 must still have a path back to the battery somehow when the switch is off.
24 minutes ago, Swift said:It’s only when I turn off the ignition I have the issue. If I turn off the battery switch straight away all power is cut and the ignition turns off.
There is no problem to the ecu or other electronics running it like this, it will just flatten the battery if the master is not shut off. But be aware since this relay is not switching off with the ignition switch it may mean there is a possibility that the engine wont switch off with the ignition switch when you want it to either - potentially a safety issue.
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40 minutes ago, Swift said:
I see the number 8 Aux shows 10.3 volts when the ECU is on. Is this correct ?
Yes.
Can you draw a schematic of how the Innovate relay is connected to the ecu and the ignition circuit. You have a back feed, the only place a backfeed can come from is an aux device that remains live after the ignition switch is off. So it is either your innovate relay pin 86 that is still has 12V after the ignition switch is off or something else that you have connected to one of the other aux outputs.
What else is connected to ecu aux outputs?
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The 12V supply to the relay coil must be from an ignition switched source, yours must be live all the time if the relay is staying engaged after ign is off.
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1 hour ago, evo_gerard said:
do i measure the resistance of both and take an average or do i just measure at main sensor?
The sensors are wired in series with just a single wire going back to the dash. As far as I know both sensors are the same, so measure 1 and double it.
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You havent really provided any info to help. The loom manufacturer should probably be the first port of call for questions about which ecu is controlling what functions and what needs to be set up in the engine ecu to making the trans ecu happy, all this would have had to be planned before making the harness.
If you cant get that info from the loom manufacturer then if you can provide all the loom documentation and a copy of the tune and log from the ecu and a better description of the problem you are trying to solve then we may be able to offer more relevant advice.
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With touch start, if you press the same button again when the engine is running, it will stop the engine.
Can you explain better how you want the accusump logic to work.
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I would say you have just kissed the RPM limit. You just dont see all the detail due to the logging rate. In the next firmware the limit capture for logging has been improved so that the status and limit flag word will stay active for a minimum time so it is always captured even in a slow log.
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The spill valve controls the inlet side of the pump, It is normally open. You will notice there is no check valve on the inlet. If we dont energise the spill valve, fuel will be drawn into the cylinder as the piston moves down, if we continue to keep it open after the fill event, when the piston comes back up the fuel will just be pushed back out of the inlet (ie "spilled"), no rail pressure will be generated.
If we want to generate rail pressure then we need to close the spill valve. You will notice in the pic below which shows it starting to pump with the valve closed, that once it is closed you actually have fuel pressure also pushing the valve closed against its seat - what that means is once it is closed you cant open it again by just "turning off" the valve - it wont open again until the piston is past TDC and the piston is travelling down again. If you pump in too much fuel then your rail pressure runs away, the only way to reduce the pressure is to open the injectors (they do have a relief valve for safety but it is very hard on the lobe and pump to run at the relief pressure).
The volume of fuel that is delivered is determined by how far up the bore the piston is when you energise the spill valve. If you energise the spill valve when the piston is at the bottom then you get the full swept volume delivered, if you energise the valve when the piston has already travelled halfway up the bore then you will get half the swept volume delivered. There is significant complexity however in determining what crank angle to energise the spill valve at to achieve your desired delivery volume. 1. the pump lobe profile means the volume is not linear to lobe angle. 2. the pump lobe is connected to a VVT cam that moves in relation to the crank. 3. the spill valve action is not instantaneous - the length of time it takes to close varies electrical factors such as battery voltage and the peak and hold currents.12 hours ago, John Cousins said:Could you please explain what you mean by the PUMP peak and hold current?
To get the valve to close as fast as possible you need a lot of current, you want to allow as much current to flow in as the coil can handle (heat/internal melting), however this peak current only needs to be applied for a short time until the magnetic field reaches saturation, once at saturation there is no advantage in still flowing max current - it just creates more heat, you can reduce the current back to a level just enough to "hold" it saturated. The ECU controls both the peak and hold currents. Typically the peak & hold currents can be determined by scoping an engine running a factory ECU, the deadtime is more difficult - typically this is done on a specialised test set-up with an accelerometer clamped to the pump so you can "see" how long it takes for the valve to hit the seat after it is energised.
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If you need gain that high then I suspect you have an issue with the sensor or wiring. I dont remember seeing any engine that needed a gain higher than about 8.
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The V7-9 ecu didnt use the TGV position inputs, they are not connected. AN Volt 3 is the original TPS input.
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Correct, either splice the two 16AWG output wires close to the PDM to a single larger wire, or run the 2 wires all the way to the device. Splicing to a single wire close to the source is typically considered the preferred option for high current devices as with the shared wire option you have more risk of overheating a wire if there is some factor that causes the load to not be shared equally between the wires such as a bad crimp or broken copper strand etc.
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What ecu do you have? The RHS and LHS TGV positions are completely independent so nothing needs to be bridged. But im confused about your mention of AN Volt 3 and AN Temp 3, none of our subaru plug-ins uses those for TGV position as far as I remember.
Help with fault code please
in G4+
Posted
You will need to post the tune and a log showing the problem for anyone to be able to help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A