Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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2 hours ago, Adamchong said:
Thanks everyone for the help definatly solved a problem that would have came up with the ID. Turns out wiring issue gauge side. i guess the wire had a small break in it as i got no continuity through it changed it out.
I dont think a disconnection would cause the lambda not to work though, I think it would have had to be connected in reverse to cause a "bus off" error.
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If your car has cruise control you could set up something like "hold the set button and brake pedal together for more than 5 seconds" to disarm the antitheft, if it doesn't have cruise you could do something like throttle pedal >50% and brake pedal together for more than *sec. I would also set up something like the CE light to flash when antitheft is active so you know when you have successfully met the conditions.
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It sounds like a wiring issue - like CAN L/H are swapped or something. Do you have the same DTM 4 connector for both? Does the same thing happen if you plug the oil press gauge into the lambda plug?
What CAN errors are showing in the runtimes?
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Yes, you can connect it via CAN bus (most accurate) or using an analog input such as pin 56.
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The image from Powertunes document "Link Analog input setup" below shows Fuel level on frame ID 2 with start bit 55 which is different to what you are using. I dont know if these are user definable in the dash. Can you show us how you have these custom channels set up in the dash?
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I think the ID for oil press should be 656135
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I think the fact the 150A breaker trips sometimes suggests there is a vert serious short somewhere. In the occurrences where the breaker doesnt trip, the short is probably just dropping the ecu voltage enough to cause the eccs relay to drop out. There is nothing ecu or engine control related that would have wires big enough to trip a 150A breaker (the wires would catch fire first) so I would be looking more at the larger circuits such as alternator/starter/battery cables, etc.
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There is no CO2 or dome pressure boost control type function in the G4+ range, this was only more recently added to G4X. In G4+ the boost control function always references MAP.
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Resolution will be no problem. For the frequency divider I dont know of a good commercially available option - there are things like "speedo correctors" etc but they tend to be expensive for such a basic requirement. I usually suggest this:
Note there is a mistake on that drawing, it should say this circuit will divide by 8, not 16.
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1 hour ago, PopesSimpleSpares said:
and off idle there's a new hesitation that I can only guess is being caused by the ignition setup.
Yes, I would say this is likely, you have 23deg around the idle area of your main ignition table that dips to 12deg deg when you initially open the throttle. The lambda is not working in that log though so I cant say it is only due to ignition.
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Your AFR target 2 would be the target if you were running whatever fuel that you have set up as 100% multifuel blend. So say for example E85 was the highest eth content you would ever run, then your multifuel blend table would be set up[ with 100% for 85% ethanol. This means when you are running E85 you will be using 100% of the multifuel properties (Density, stoich, AFR target 2 etc), and there would be no influence from the main fuel properties & AFR target 1.
In your log you are running 66% ethanol content, which based on the way your multifuel blend table is set up you are using a blend of 61%. This means 61% of your fuel calculation is coming from the multifuel properties/Fuel table 2 & AFR table 2, 39% is still coming from the primary fuel/fuel table 1/AFR target 1.
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No log attached.
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The stock O2 sensors are narrowband so not much use to you unless you have a catalytic converter and have some emissions regulations to meet. But if you want to use them then you can connect the 2nd one to any spare analog input. If you want dual bank closed loop then I would suggest 2 CAN based wideband lambda devices.
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It most likely would be compatible but I have requested CAN info from Fueltech for other CAN devices in the past and they haven't been willing to provide it.
I suggest you try requesting the CAN info yourself as perhaps as a pre-sale question they might be more responsive.
PCS make the 8 channel one for Fueltech which is available direct from PCS for not much more than your pic shows for the 4Ch device, otherwise the ECUmaster, Haltech, DIY autotune, are other common options which we already support.
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I would suggest the pneumatic ALV with a conventional solenoid to control it, you would need to add further electronics to control the electronic one and I dont see any benefit. You can use any spare aux for the mac solenoid, aux 8 on pin 40 is probably a good option.
The G4+ isn't well suited for turbospeed sensors as the DI max frequency is around 1000Hz - turbospeed is usually more like 3000Hz. You would need to add a frequency divider circuit in line.
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There is also AN Volt 3 on Pin 13 that can be re-purposed, originally the narrowband O2 signal.
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It is not available for external use, this output controls some internal electronics which disconnect all the aux output flywheeling diodes from the main power supply when the ignition switch is off. This helps prevent the possibility of back feeds in future when users start to mess with the wiring.
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Really that device is not particularly useful as the ecu has much better boost control built in and it can read the ethanol sensor directly. Only the wideband AFR will be used.
Make sure the innovate Black ground wire is connected directly to the engine block (not a random chassis ground). You can connect the yellow wideband signal wire to AN Volt 8 on Pin 70 or AN Volt 9 on Pin 69.
For the flex fuel I suggest you share the sensor signal with the ecu and gauge, splice into the sensor white wire and connect to DI8 (pin 67) on the ecu (do not use the innovate brown wire analog output):
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Load in the "Monsoon K20" base map, setup all your IO to match your wiring, calibrate your TPS etc and make sure all your sensors are reading right, then save that map and upload it here, I will set up the fuel and ignition and other fundamentals to give you something to start from. The injectors are fine for that engine.
What does it have for triggers?
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4 hours ago, DerekAE86 said:
How soon after TDC is a good point to start listening to avoid piston slap?
I assume it is right at TDC where the acceleration swaps direction but I dont know for sure, I've never really considered pin offset and compression load etc. I generally aim for my window to start around 10ATDC ballpark at peak torque and it seems to serve me well in most cases.
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The VTS software will pull the map out and display it as soon as you connect. To save a copy to your laptop just go >file>save as after connecting.
There is an old video here with basic PC Link/VTS navigation: https://youtu.be/-Hb04S07IA0
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Probably not in a traditional log, but we have discussed having some of this type of info placed into a trigger scope capture before, this would be the only way to have enough sample rate for engine position. Even at 1000Hz, a 1ms inj PW is only going to be a single data point, the typical rule of thumb is you want 10X the sample rate of the shortest event. Most likely some of it would have to be assumed/calculated data rather than actual captured events too, as it would require a crap load of processing to get all the individual cyl trims and dwell times etc.
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I just had a quick look at their metric and imperial TRI's and the scaling of the boost looks correct to me, but it has the wrong start byte, it should be start byte 2, the imperial TRI has the start byte set to 4 for the boost channel.
As for the boost increase/decrease, I dont see any option for momentary buttons, they look like the "CAN switch" can only act like toggles. The closest would be the "multiswitch" widget, it looks like this can be set to scroll through up to 8 statuses. So you could have for example 5 boost levels, each press of the button increments 1 level. I assume it rolls back to the lowest setting on the 5th press but it doesnt actually say and I cant see all the settings without a gauge connected.
Warmer weather (IAT) Idle flucuation
in G4+
Posted
It will be best to share them with onedrive, google drive, dropbox, wetransfer or similar and paste a link here. Google "how to share a file with ***" if you cant figure it out.