Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Im pretty sure they are just a power window motor, there is no position sensor or position control.
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1 hour ago, YONDOA said:
What am i missing here or something i can possibly change.
21 hours ago, Adamw said:You can experiment with the cyclic idle limit if you want more or less effect. You can also turn on advanced mode and experiment with start cut/end cut and range to change the sound and smoothness
1 hour ago, YONDOA said:does link utilise ignition based cyclic idle or fuel based?
21 hours ago, Adamw said:the ecu then uses a fuel cut to control RPM at the target cyclic idle speed
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Yes it looks like bank 1 sensor is wired back to front.
20 hours ago, dx4picco said:We are not getting any error so to say, but automode isn't working and when putting it in manual mode, it works until we depress the pedal and then the light goes out. wondering if this is that the DCCD ecu is missing some informations?
The DCCD has an APS or TPS signal and tacho.
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2 hours ago, Win said:
When I put test mode on, the outputs just stay low.
How are you measuring this? they will only be high for 2ms so you will need an oscilloscope to see it.
Do you have the jumpers in the 91-93 positions? Or done this to confirm:
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17 hours ago, Amrit Sidhu said:
Is there any difference if I wire the SSR as following assuming the terminals and polarity are correct on the SSR:
No, the load can be on either side, it just needs some current passing through it.
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I would guess most likely Code 75 was the initial problem, this is usually a PID tune problem where the throttle is either too slow to get to target or has an unstable oscillation which prevents it stabilising on target. If the TP cant reach target then the ecu sees this as a safety issue and shuts off the e-throttle relay, this causes error 71 & 73. The error 101 is unrelated, that is for the AC evap pressure sensor.
I suggest you set up ECU logging so it is recording E-throttle related stuff all the time, then next time it faults connect up your laptop and download the log and attach here.
Logging set up like below.
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They should be good for about 3A continuous and the self-resettable fuses trip somewhere around 6A for 30sec. When we first changed to the JST4 I tested two CAN lambdas and a dash using 3 splitters all connected at the far end of 4M total of our CAN extension cables with success. That was close to the limit though, from memory the CAN lambdas were reporting battery voltage about 1.5V lower than the ecu. So assuming the AEM doesnt pull crazy current I would expect your setup should be fine.
So yes, confirm voltage at the gauge is the first step.
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Is the fuel pressure sensor you replaced exactly the same as the other? Have you got a gauge to confirm the calibration against?
The log shows the ecu is commanding similar pulse widths but it is running leaner even now with higher fuel pressure than it ever had so there appears to be less fuel making it in for some reason. Incorrect fuel pressure sensor cal could explain that. It would pay to check you have full battery voltage on the 12V side of the injector also.
Below is your old dyno log (pink traces) overlayed with your most recent (coloured traces). RPM, MAP, fuel table value, target lambda, IAT and batt voltage are all very similar. The most recent log is a cold start so has 52% post start enrichment active which is the reason for the 0.73 Vs 0.49 effective PW. It's hard to compare when you dont know how the lambda used to look during a cold start, but assuming it used to cold start ok, and now all fuel calculation inputs are the same except the fuel pressure is 30kpa higher you would expect it to be richer not leaner. So the fuel press is the most suspicious bit of data to me.
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I have never personally tried, but yes it should work. Try this:
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It is hard to tell in that scope capture as the engine is cranking slow (maybe flat battery). Can you remove the sparkplugs so it cranks over faster and do a new triggerscope.
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Is your relay a Fotek or an unbranded clone like pictured? On the genuine Fotek relays the +/- on terminal 1/2 are the opposite of what that label shows (2 is still on the right but it is the negative), so it is possibly mislabeled?
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The manual switch is DI3 and auto switch is DI5. Set them up as GP inputs with the pull-up on, im not sure if the on level is high or low but you will soon find out.
The auto switch will be best for a boost switch since it is latching, the momentary manual switch will be better suited to launch control or rolling antilag etc. There is a software latch but that means you would need to press it once for on and again for off.
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Cyclic idle on its own is pretty simple to set up. The basic idea is you have the throttle open quite a bit more than is normally required for idle, the ecu then uses a fuel cut to control RPM at the target cyclic idle speed. So, with the throttle open, the RPM higher than normal idle, and about 80% of combustion events being "cut", the result is you have a lot of un-combusted, cool air being pumped through the engine/manifold/turbine/exhaust.
I suggest you set up a switch to activate it only when needed as it makes them pretty horrible to drive if you have it always on - you also will have very little vacuum so boosted brakes wont work.
The example below will be a reasonable starting point for a basic cool down type strategy. DI6 is my switch to activate it, when this is off the throttle will go to its normal idle position and there will be no cyclic. Set ISC override to on, this enables the cyclic override table which controls the e-throttle, set this like my example. Set AL enable RPM to 20000 so that antilag never gets activated. Cyclic mode ON = sys armed means it only does cyclic when DI6 is on. Cyclic idle low/high per my example. You can experiment with the cyclic idle limit if you want more or less effect. You can also turn on advanced mode and experiment with start cut/end cut and range to change the sound and smoothness, but start with it off.
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Im not very familiar with the ZC engine, but the obd0/1/2 distributor wiring info below may help if they share any similar parts. The factory Honda ecu used a rising edge trigger signal whereas the Link ecu needs a falling signal, so the positive/negative wires need to be reversed with Link compared to the factory ecu.
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The Si Drive mode is available in the ecu as CAN AN 1.
There are many ways you can use this, for example you can put it directly on the axis of tables for something like changing target boost or launch RPM, or you can use it with a GP aux to switch tables or switch some function on and off, or use it in math functions to manipulate some logic.
Below is an example that would switch to boost table 2 when Si Drive is in sports sharp mode. The GP output becomes true when CAN AN1 = 1 (1 is sports sharp mode), this makes virtual aux 1 active. You then use virtual aux 1 to switch your boost table and activate wmi.
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Fix your fuel pressure issue and double your master fuel, then give me a new log if it then doesnt run for longer
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Your idle speed control isnt even working as your MAP is above the MAP lockout. So attached is your cal with some changes to idle speed control settings, and I also flattened out the fuel table around the idle area as it was fairly messy around there.
Do a new log with these changes so we can tell if it is a fuel issue or other. You may need to adjust the idle base position table since I have lowered the idle timing in this cal.
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You've got very little fuel going in, effective PW is only ~0.5ms and you have less than 200kpa fuel pressure. Your master fuel set to 6ms seems very low - what size injectors does it have?
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Its looking somewhere in the ballpark now I think. The dashpot function needs a bit of adjustment to get rid of the undershoot as you enter idle, but hard to tell exactly which bit of it to adjust, you will soon figure it out with a bit of experimentation. Possibly a longer hold and shorter decay.
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Looks mostly ok to me now. Just no accel enrichment. Put some non-zero values in your accel enrichment cold correction table, 1.0 at normal operating temp and 5ish at cold start temps as a starting point.
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alternator
in G4x
It is not an ecu controlled alternator in these.
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I would change the trigger 1 sync tooth to 1. We dont want it anywhere near the cam tooth so with it set to 8 it is very close.
The fuel table will need fully tuning, this was just a ballpark to get it running.
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Yes they are completely sealed, the internals are fully potted in epoxy and the anodised aluminium seems to stand up well to hasrsh environments.
- Confused and castillaricardo
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2
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No, only the LSU4.9 at this time.
G4X ECU with RealDash
in G4x
Posted
Yes it is supported, yes you will need one of the realdash supported CAN USB/wifi/bluetooth adaptors.