Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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11 hours ago, essb00 said:
The window start then varies widely as it is based on the ignition event.
Yes, that is the point. The location of the knock is closely related to the ignition event because you dont get any combustion pressure until the spark event. You can see in the 3rd pic where the ignition has been advanced 4degs the knock initialisation has also occurred about 4deg earlier.
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Sorry for the delay, I have only just done so now.
This one is not an easy trigger pattern for us to support, it would require quite a chunk of code development due to the irregular tooth spacing and I dont think it would be justified for the current demand.
One option if you have enough meat maybe something like below, I have done this on a jetski before, I used M4 hex screws in a 12-1 pattern around the flywheel.
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Crank signal is trig 1, cam signal is trig 2, both will likely be grounded to the Shield/Gnd pin to the left of trig 1.
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If you can do the update outside of the car when powered independently but cant connect when it is in the car then that is a very strong suggestion it is not actually powered up in the car.
So can you do this to confirm you can connect to PC Link successfully out of the car:
31 minutes ago, Adamw said:I would remove it from the car power it up via the diode as per the pic 7 posts up to check if you can connect the laptop then.
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Knock typically initiates well after TDC, 10-50ATDC. On a well optimised engine the peak combustion press will be around 15ATDC, on poorly optimised knock limited road car engine the peak cyl press will be more like 25ATDC, when knock does occur the biggest shock wave is often the first one right around the normal PCP but it can sometimes start off smaller and grow during the expansion phase so this is why you want to monitor for sometime after this point also.
- Oldmanz350, Chocobuilt and DerekAE86
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NC means not connected. You can re-assign most IO within their scope of hardware functionality. You can have up to 8 lambda probes, but you would be better using CAN bus in that case. What are you trying to achieve?
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What is the pattern on the crank wheel?
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If you are able to do a firmware update then it must be connecting? I would remove it from the car power it up via the diode as per the pic 7 posts up to check if you can connect the laptop then.
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I would say your frequency is no good, when you are cruising at very low load , with steady RPM & load like the example below your knock levels should be barely above 1 and very flat, there shouldn't be spikes like that.
I would also take your window start to 30deg after ign so you are not listening to the piston slap at tdc.
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If your engine runs then the base map has done its job, you now need to tune it. Typically to find the best switch points for a switched cam you do a run on the dyno with VTC off and another with VTC on full time, then overlay them, where the lines cross is your optimum switch point. Im pretty sure the last VTC RB i done was on around 2000 & off at 5300 but it was quite a few years back and im going from memory. Im not sure if I even used a load condition.
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No it is fine. Obviously if you turn the output off using the injector test function your relay will turn off so there will be no power to aux 9/10 and you will get error 73, it is an expected result.
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You have E-throttle set to disabled in your map.
Set that to set-up mode initially, do the APS calibration and TPS calibration, provided they both succeed then set it to "On" mode and it should work.
Also, you have some trigger errors when you first start cranking, this may explain why the stock ecu wasn't sparking, possibly the flywheel is fitted wrong or something. Can you do a trigger scope when cranking and attach that here as well.
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VC is 5V. E2 is sensor Gnd. VTA is signal. IDL is not used.
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It sounds like you have the e-throttle relay connected to an injector drive?
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Mostly I would say it related to your VTC kicking on and off due to the "MAP > 65kpa" condition that someone has set.
Contributing to the "lean tip in"; I suspect there is also not quite enough accel enrichment and the fuel table has a bit of an unrealistic shape to it like it hasn't actually been tuned. It looks like there is a patch around -20kpa, 1500-2000 RPM where it is a little lean.
As for "rich on lift off"; this is pretty normal - when you lift off and the vacuum suddenly increases this evaporates some fuel off the port walls. Your VTC kicking off at the same time is exaggerating this.
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What does the TPS voltage show on the AN Volt runtime? Does it vary steadily with throttle movement by say more than about say 3V from closed to open?
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You have an issue with the trigger (crank and/or cam sensors). Prior to about the 10:57 time mark in the log the trigger looked happy, around here can see the RPM starts to get large spikes - some to >10000RPM and trip the RPM limit, the trigger error counter starts to count up rapidly, after this point even at idle there are spikes all over the RPM trace.
It could be a failing sensor (not very common but not impossible) or a loose connection, loose sensor, damaged wire or potentially some other wiring related issue such as a bad ground etc.
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Your idle postion starts at 9.1%, this comes from your base position (7.6%) + your start-up offset (1.5%), you can see the start-up offset is decayed away over a few seconds and at log time -1:36 the idle position is back down to base position. But Your RPM is still at 1900 at its point - it is above your RPM lockout so idle control will never kick in.
So your base position is too high for 40°C and possibly your start up offset is too high. At -1:35 your AC turns on which adds another 0.8% offset and makes things worse but that is probably ok provided the other two were closer to correct.
Overrun fuel cut is active because your APS is below the APS threshold and RPM is above the de-activation RPM.
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You will need an active USB extension. I have a 10M Unitek Y-278 that I use an engine dyno that works good.
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2jzge itb intermittent rough idle and starting
in G4x
Posted
Most of the stalling and odd behaviour around idle is a trigger issue, your RPM randomly drops to zero, this of course will trigger many startup strategies such as crank enrichment, post-start enrichment, start-up offset etc which will mess up the tune. Post a triggerscope at idle, it may just be arming threshold or similar.
In the "V2idle3" log where it is idling too low, this is due to the MAP lockout, so increase that to say 85Kpa. There are still a few other bits of the idle control that look like they need work but get the trigger and MAP lockout fixed first and do some new logs.
Can you also give us a photo or description of the mechanical setup - where the throttle position sensor is fitted and how the motor is linked to the throttles etc, there are a few odd spots in your logs where the TPS jumps like 0.5% but the RPM doesnt change - like there is some freeplay or backlash or something?