Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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You can use the MeatPi for CAN/wifi connection to realdash.
OBD2 version: https://mou.sr/43TkD5q
wired version: https://mou.sr/43NFY0B
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You can do boost by speed or gear. Boost by gear would be preferable since you have a driven wheel speed sensor. The maximum engine torque that the tyre can transmit is directly proportional to gear ratio as that is a torque multiplier, so gear makes the most sense for most applications.
With boost by speed the typical strategy is to increase boost at higher speeds, but the problem with using driven wheel speed for this is if you get wheel spin the ecu will increase boost which will make it worse. Non-driven wheel speed is better for boost by speed.
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Can you clarify what you are trying to achieve? When we talk about engine braking control in a race car or motorcycle it is usually to prevent wheel slip during downshifts, that doesnt sound like what you are querying here?
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Set up instructions for the egt device are in the help file page: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information
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Can you make that question clearer. Do you have a grey plug ecu but blue plug engine loom or the opposite? The pinout for all our plug-ins are in the help file.
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I looked at this a bit closer today, there is not a lot of solid info around for the F20C temp sensor, but im pretty sure from the few clues I found it should use the "Honda K20" calibration. Our base map is set to "Std Bosch NTC" which I assume is what you are using. The car that our S2000 basemap came from was pretty modified so it possibly didnt have the factory temp sensor in it. The reported temp will be about 5degC too high if using the bosch calibration with the honda sensor so that may be what you are seeing.
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If you attach the ecu and pdm configs I will set up a couple of examples.
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If you attach the ecu and pdm configs I will set up a couple of examples for you.
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Updated files attached. Virtual aux 8 in the ecu now controls the "Fury B power" pdm pin. In the ecu it is set to test mode so it is just on all the time. If you do upgrade to e-throttle in future just change virtual aux 8 function to E-throttle relay.
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Set the analog input function to Lambda 1, set the calibration to Innovate LC1.
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Then no, there is no advantage or need for 2 cam sensors, just the 3 tooth wheel that moves with the cam lobes.
The ecu references the first tooth after the missing teeth gap on the crank wheel to determine crank position, from here it can work out engine phase because it will see 2 cam teeth in the first 360 crank rotation and only 1 cam tooth in the 2nd 360deg.
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Yeah they are meant to be perpendicular. If you have foreign objects flying through your boost pipe you probably have bigger problems to worry about than damage to the temp sensor
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I assume that would be a roller vane type pump since it looks like a 044 copy, in my experience they dont work particularly well with speed control, the pressure tends to get very "pulsey". Frequency will depend what your SSR or controller wants, but most commonly 100-200Hz.
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I havent personally seen one fail in that way. I have seen some users on FB etc report them developing leaks when used with coolant but I have never seen one fail personally. How are you testing it? Is it reading correct at zero pressure?
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You've still got a trigger issue but it wasn't captured in your original trigger scope. Can you do a few trigger scope captures next time the idle starts to go all erratic, hopefully one will catch the issue.
Have you checked rotor phasing in this engine before? Turn the engine by hand to 5ATDC and check that the rotor is still just in contact with the post in the cap, similar to the pic below.
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What fuel pump and controller?
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The "R8" coils fit those engines quite well so would be a reasonably cost effective option. I cant say for sure whether the coil cover will fit on. Search 0221604800 (bosch) or 48728 (NGK) on something like rockauto, you should be able to get them for about 20-25USD each and those are both reliable coil brands.
If you wanted to stick with the stock coils and use an external ignitor then the 2JZ ignitor isn't very good so avoid that one. The haltech ones are quite good but way too expensive. Most common would be 2 x 3 channel such as Bosch 0227100203 - avoid the generic unbranded ones, stick to Bremi, Bosch, Huco (Hitatchi). Try IGC8403 on rockauto.
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I would probably start by checking the calibration of the ECT sensor. You could do this either by removing it and dropping it in a jug of boiling water and confirm ecu shows near 100C. Or you could run the engine with the stock ecu until it is hot, check OBD2 temp, switch off then unplug sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor. Then put the Link ecu in run it until PC link shows the same temp as what you had before, then check the resistance of the sensor again. If the calibration in Link is the same as the factory ecu I would expect resistance to be within a couple of ohms when the engine is at the same temp.
The only other thing that would effect coolant temp while driving is tune related such as being too retarded or very lean, the fan control will have little effect when moving above about 10mph.
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The ECU does not receive fuel level.
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Im not sure what you wanted for "engine kill" so I haven't done that, but the rest of the stuff from ECU to PDM is set up. No PDM to ECU yet as I dont know what you want.
When you open up this PDM config, it will state that it contains a layout and ask if you want to load it, choose yes so you see my notes etc.
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I would stick with hex head bolts. With a reluctor sensor the ecu uses the zero crossing as the trigger point which is actually the center of the tooth mass so the orientation of the hex flats will have very little influence on the zero crossing point. With a cap screw or Philips etc the hole in the middle will cause a double bump in the waveform.
For the missing tooth, have it pass the sensor somewhere around 90deg before or after TDC will be good.
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Most ABS sensors from the era of this car would be a magneto resistive type. They can be quite tricky to make them output suitable voltages as they actually work by switching between 2 different current levels rather than high/low voltage levels. You need to experiment with a range of supply voltages and pull-up/pull-down resistor values. You need to achieve something more than about 2V when high and less than about 1V low. Have a read of this doc for a bit of guidance: https://www.motec.com.au/filedownload.php/CTN0007 Magneto Resistive Sensors.pdf?docid=3634
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VVT Control of MX5X NB2 Plug-in
in G4x
Posted
Not quite sure what you mean by this, all cam control functionality is adjustable including target, PID, solenoid control, trigger patterns etc.
Aux 1 is a high side drive output on this ecu, there is a driver on the adapter board that converts the native lowside drive to high side. the aux 1 active state setting in the software should be set to low as per the base map.
Attach a short log and a copy of your map.