Adamw
-
Posts
21,082 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1,370
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Adamw
-
-
In your latest map attached above your upshift torque reintroduction time is set at 100ms. Looking at some of my files I have always used around 20ms.
-
Change your gear position sensor voltage to about 4.32V for 6th.
-
I notice during every gear change event your "gear" goes to zero. I think if you increase your gear detection voltage tolerance to about 0.2V or a little higher that should t fix it. Also at the end of 5th gear your log goes to zero so not sure if there is something funny with your 6th voltage setting? Based on this log I would set your shift force to about 400N.
-
Another simplethings that works 100% is to use the oem's coil primary terminals. The connection is simple. + coil terminal connected to an IG+, - coil terminal connected to tachometer cable (as it was when OEM ecu was used) and tacho output from ecu connected to the coils edge - with a 0.33 kohm resistor.
Edited my original post here since I had misread the resistor as 0.33ohm, not 0.33kohm which will limit current. Still not sure I like this idea...
-
Further to the above info, the main limitation you need to be aware of is that all CAN devices connected to the one stream/channel must transmit and the same bit rate (speed) and have unique ID's. With many CAN devices these parameters are configurable but some of the more basic devices will not be.
-
Try turning pull ups on. ECCS sync is only for the nissan 360 trigger mode so "NO" would be normal in your case.
-
The proper way to do what you want here would be via CAN...
The digital on/off type inputs you should be able to work out easy enough but the analogs will be a bit more drama. There are no built in "analog outputs", so if you want an analog output you would have to use a PWM aux out, then convert that to analog via a resistor/capacitor network. That would possibly add some delay to the signal and it would take a fair bit of messing around to work out the calibration etc.
-
A 12 tooth trigger should not cause any issues. It is only the old "tooth per TDC" mode (i.e 3 teeth on a 6cyl) that you needed lots of cranking dwell. I would still increase dwell a little at cranking speeds/volts to give a healthier spark at low volts. Attached is a suggestion you can try.
-
First try a relay coil like this: http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Relay-Wiring-for-Tacho-Output1.pdf This will work for most hi level tachos. If you have no luck with that then there are devices such as MSD 8920 that will do it.
-
Assuming this is the correct datasheet for the MAP sensor you have: http://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-2131-50%20Sensor%20Data.pdf
Then in the link software I would set your MAP calibration to "Cal 4, 5 or 6", then set those up like this:
-
Yes, there is AN temp4 available on the expansion connector. You will need to buy one of these if you don't already have one: http://dealers.linkecu.com/XSL_2
-
You might need to explain better what you want. For the TPS do you want an analog 0-5V signal out? Why not just splice into the signal wire?
-
For the wideband you don't need a cal table. Your AEM analog has the same calibration as the newer "x-series" so you can use the already preconfigured cal in the software. Set it up like this:
What are you trying to do with the boost gauge? Do you want to use the sensor as a MAP sensor?
-
With crank mag sensor is it common to see readings at lower voltages with a failure and not complete loss of signal?
I don't think it would be a common failure mode but I still wouldn't rule it out yet either. VR sensors are pretty simple devices, basically just a coil of wire wrapped around a pole so not much to go wrong. Do the isolated scope test I suggested and also check things that could effect sensor gap like crank end float etc first. Maybe try another sensor if you find no problems with these.
-
Something is wrong with the trigger for the voltage to be so low. Most of your Trig 1 amplitude is only about 100mV p2p which is not enough. Generally you would want a bare minimum of about 0.4V at cranking speeds. Trigger 2 is not great but might still be usable.
The first thing I would look at is sensor air gap, has something moved? close it up a bit if you can. Check things like end float etc. If that looks ok the next thing I would do is disconnect the sensor from wiring and connect your standalone scope direct to the sensor and try again. That will eliminate a short or something in the wiring that could be "pulling it down".
-
Tony,
An engine like this will need significant valve timing overlap so a MAP based load will not work well even with a single throttle body. NA race engines is mostly all I do (normally ITB though) so I know this application well. I normally still have a MAP sensor connected but only plumbed to the airbox to allow for aero effects at highspeed. I would normally have the FPR reference tee'd to the same location. Load axis for both fuel & ign maps should be TPS. You say "I only care about full throttle", but remember the engine must still accelerate out of low speed corners and must drive in pits and idle at dummy grid etc.
Another observation; your MAP on the graph above shows a significant trend downwards with increasing RPM. To me that suggests your intake is very restrictive and is already loosing you power at just 6000RPM. You will need to rethink that if you intend to make power at 10000...
-
what do you mean by a trigger scope image? is there a function in the software or you a image taken from my scopmeter?
I think Scott forgot you have a G4. The trigger scope function is only available in the G4+. If you do have access to an oscilloscope however I think that would be helpful.
Do you intend to keep the VVT functional or are you planning to lock the camshafts?
-
Hi Tony,
Yes that looks like it will get you in the right ball park. You normally want reasonable preload on the shifter fork before initiating the cut (i.e. you should see a small amount of barrel movement first) so I probably would have gone just a little higher than your guess (~4.2v) but it seems you've definitely got a good feel for it now.
-
Tony,
Most of the cars I play with I have to use ignition cut limiters (fuel cut is no good with outboard injectors) so my settings may not translate well to your setup but I normally have around 90% cut for all gears. You will feel a stumble if there is too much cut and it will be hard/impossible to change if you don't have enough. In my case I cant use retard with ign cut but I have also never really needed it either so I would probably suggest you start with none and only add a little in if you find the fuel cut too violent or if the engine doesn't recover well after a big fuel cut. FYI, you can get most of it dialled in reasonably well on a rolling road that has reasonable inertia.
-
Hi Tony,
Your logging needs a bit of "fine tuning" to make it more useful....
- You have only logged at 10Hz, For gear cut tuning you really want it a bit faster than that. I suggest 25Hz as a good balance.
- Rather than log the AN input you should log the actual final calculated parameter. For instance instead of logging Channel "AN 6 Gear Pos Sensor" you should log "Gear (Status)" which will give you the actual gear rather than the voltage. Same with "Gear Lever force" & "Lambda".
- Comparing your gear pos voltages to your .pclr, you have only used gears, Neutral, 1, 2, 3, & 4? Is that correct that you haven't used 5th or 6th in this log?
- I dont think your Gear Pos sensor is going to work well the way you have it set up with 4th gear at 4.4V then stepping back to 5th at 0.8V. Is it possible to rotate the sensor a little so it doesn't go past zero? I.e ideally you want voltage incrementing in the same direction for the whole travel - say R at 0.5V and 6th at 4.5V (or the inverse of this).
- As for the Lambda/AFR logged units, I will let Link techs reply to that. I only use Lambda so have never played with it. I'm sure it will be possible to Log in your native units.
-
Thanks that makes sense. The mapper is actually one of the top guys at syvecs so abit surprised hes not done this in the way you would expect. Im going to re do it all now as it should be and go from there. Many thanks for your help guys
Dan,
If you haven't already seen it, you might learn something by joining HP Academy for a month (~$20). They have a webinar showing tuning the G4+ on an RB26, using 4D strategy so it should be quite relevant. I haven't seen any of their webinars myself but I know Andre and his logic and technique is generally very good: https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/4d-tuning-link-g4-plus/
-
Dan,
Normally with a "4D" mapped ITB turbo engine like yours you would find the bulk of the "tune" comes from the main TPS/RPM fuel table (fuel table 1) and the 4D map usually only needs to make very small corrections to the main table as things like back pressure and turbo efficiency start to move outside "normal". So in my experience the 4D table (Fuel table 2 in your case) would normally be just about all zeros with only small numbers in the extremes such as high boost/RPM regions. Yours is completely different to what I would expect with corrections applied to just about the full table and up to 73% added!
Your problem area seems to be mostly where the Fuel table two starts to apply corrections - you kind of have two tables fighting each other. So although we can possibly improve the situation by tweaking this "fuel table 2", really its been done wrong and its never going to work great like this.
As for how the mapper has got it wrong I am not sure, perhaps he never got Table 1 right before adding Table 2? or perhaps its something like your MAP sensor calibration or fuel pressure that was having an influence during tuning? Personally I would be starting the fuel maps from scratch but if you are happy to stick with the odd setup and its really only the flat spot that you are worried about then I can possibly help you tweak it.
-
Oh right I set that low incase something goes wrong with my boost control. I put it 22psi or something so how will it cut at 8psi? Is there a calculation I don't know or? First time so would love to know.
Here's your present MAP limit table:
Perhaps you are confusing Absolute and Gauge pressure. I'll let you wiki the difference. Note the A in MAP means "Absolute". So at sea level a MAP of 160Kpa would be about 60Kpa (or 8.8Psi) "Boost" or "gauge" pressure. Basically you subtract atmosphere pressure (~100Kpa) from Absolute to get to gauge pressure.
-
Tps issues would likely show in a log. Do you know how to log? Pm me if not and I will give some help.
Actually remembered this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
Sequential Gear control
in G4+
Posted
I cant say I have ever used a downshift cut. Perhaps that's because most of the circuits around here are mostly flat its not needed or perhaps its more for rally or hill climbs? I cant think of too many scenarios where you would be shifting down at WOT in a circuit car...
So I'd probably set it the same as your upshift time since its unlikely to be invoked anyway.