Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Hey Scott,
Just wiring this all In now, just wondering does the polarity of the potentiometer wires matter?
Thanks,Rat
Rat, not really. If you connect it the wrong way it will work backwards - i.e. turn CCW to increase boost. So you can correct that in the soft ware or just swap some wires.
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boost spike
in G4+
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Thanks, that pretty much confirmed my basic understanding. It was my assumption that GASH & GASL was a fuel level measurement that was not making sense to me so your suggestion that it might be fuel consumption would fit better.
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Scott, I haven't yet needed to learn much about CAN so for my own learning I'm curious about the above example...
I see that in the message ID201 there is RPM, speed & fuel level? (and probably other stuff we cant see). Would it be normal for all the data in one message ID to come from one device (lets say the engine ECU) or can a message be generated by multiple devices all adding data to the same message ID (for instance eng ecu and BCM all add data to that same ID). It seems strange to have fuel level on the same message as RPM? I should probably google it but since you're on a roll...
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Yea the map sensor can I connect one to the plug in ecu?
Yes of course. Some of the later RB's already have a factory one connected so you may not need to do anything. If you don't have a factory one then you can connect a MAP sensor to the old MAF wire or there are a couple of spare AN inputs on the ECU header that you can use.
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It's in a r32 motor out of a r34 gtt but will the plug in ecu run the link maf sensor as I want to get rid of most wiring clutter as possible thanks
I'm not sure I understand your question well but hopefully this will answer it:
Although you can use a MAF if you really want to, most would normally remove the MAF and use a MAP instead. You can mount the map sensor in the cabin etc if you want it hidden.
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Yes all aux outputs must be fed from a source that is switched with ignition. So you will need to move "30" to a relay or something that is only live with ign on.
I'm not sure about your store issue since I haven't seen that myself before but it could well be related to the same backfeeding issue through the fan aux keeping the ECU partially alive.
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Hi Tony,
Most settings look ok to me. You might have to post a log so we can see what's going on. Your TPS lockout is set to 1% so make sure TPS at idle is 0%.
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Hi Pavlo,
No the knock window cannot be fixed in relation to TDC within Link's current knock control implementation, the window position follows your ignition timing. In the couple of engines that I have seen running with cylinder pressure instrumentation I can say that the detonation position does usually have some relation to the ignition event so I think this strategy will probably work better than having a fixed knock window position like some other ECU's do. There maybe some odd applications that I haven't considered though - can you explain why you think you need a fixed knock window position?
To give an example of how it works now, If we have window start set to 10 and window length is set to 50;
Lets say at 3000RPM & 200KPa your ignition timing is 30°BTDC, then the knock window would be active 20BTDC to 30ATDC.
Now we increase engine speed to 5000RPM & 400Kpa and your ignition timing in the table is now 15, your knock window will be 5BTDC to 45ATDC.
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Hi Anthony,
I took a quick look over your settings, most of it looks like reasonable starting points. I will make a couple of suggestions though...
Normally I disable gear cut for first outing, do a few laps using the clutch to shift whilst logging all gear cut variables. Then you can look at data and check that gear position sensor is working correctly and you will have some good data on how much shift force is required to change gear.
A couple of other comments; To me your upshift force is probably too high, more commonly around 80N. Your torque re-introduction is too long - normally if using barrel position as the shift end event this will be much smaller numbers ~ 20ms.
If you haven't already, you should download Motec tech note CTN0004. Some of their terminology is different to link, but it gives good background on how to tune the gear cut function from logging.
I didn't look through much of your .pclr but a couple of things jumped out right away - Your fuel map and lambda target table are pretty odd? You could do with decreasing the master fuel to get better numbers in your fuel map. You've got charge temp table turned on but you don't have an IAT sensor assigned so that's not going to work.
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Wideband O2
in G4+
Hi Anthony,
Yes the channel name is now "Lambda", and the default unit is Lambda (makes more sense for flex fuel etc). You can change unit to AFR under Options>units>Options.
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I have never personally done it with a vipec but you can upgrade a G4 tune file to a G4+ so I assume the same will work for i88.
The secret is you need to be connected to a live/powered up ECU, before the software will allow you to open an old format map.
So, with Laptop connected to ECU & ignition/power on, open new G4+ software. Then go to file>open and browse for your old V88 tune file, it should open up and convert to i88 file, you can then save it with a new name.
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Check video:
Sorry about format cell phone does something funky with hyperlinks. Click the "reply to table graph view" should take you to the video
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On a stock road going evo there are no spare digital inputs left on the ECU connector so you have to use the Expansion connector. However since yours is a "race car" I guess you no longer have air conditioning fitted? If that assumption is correct then you could connect your Antilag enable switch to one of the DI's that used to be associated with A/C. ECU pinout is in the help file, you can possibly use DI1 on pin 45 or DI5 on pin 11.
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Thank you. I need pinout for motherboard connector Can 1 and 2.
I agree, this info should be in the help file or documented somewhere, I always need to search it... Try this:
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I cant find any info on google about what the std Audi AEW trigger pattern looks like but I think to run sequential & VVT and use that cam trigger you will have to use one of the OEM type trigger modes (not multitooth/missing). Does that engine normally have 60-2 crank wheel? If both crank and cam trigger are stock then the Audi 4.2V8 trigger mode may work? If the crank trigger was not originally 60-2 then I think you will have to modify the cam wheel or run batch fire/wasted spark. I'm sure the Link techs will give better advice since they should have access to more info of the OEM modes.
Cool project BTW, running ITB's?.
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Christian, Sorry I didn't have access to the old G4 software yesterday. I just took a look at your data and map now. So ignore the odd wideband behaviour for the first 25 seconds or so, this is just the probe warming up and stabilising. The afr does follow duty cycle well so it appears your wiring is correct and the probe is working. It is reading quite lean at idle and probably not believable so that could be something like a slight misfire or air leak or perhaps it is just not idling well and has poor combustion. It appears to improve above idle speed and give believable numbers.
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Very good idea!!, there is no way to know the launch value assigned at the datalog, I can log the voltaje of the AN7, but not the rpm value that that meas... is that correct?
I guess the only way is to put and analog potenciomenter with marks to aproximate the rpm it will deliver...
Alex, instead of setting the Analog input up as "Voltage 0-5V" as I did in the example above, you could set it up as "GP Input", label it "Launch RPM" and assign a Cal table. Your cal table will be Voltage vs RPM. You can then set up your LC table with "Launch RPM" on one axis (instead of voltage). Your analog input should now be logged as RPM instead of voltage. I can post some screenshots later if you cant work it out from these instructions.
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Actually I know for sure (at least on the JDM 2JZ's that we see down here in NZ) the stepper can bypass enough air to get over 4000RPM, so I wouldnt yet rule out that it could be IAC settings. If you are using closed loop, switch to open loop and play around (or zero out) with base position table to see if it has any effect. On some 2JZ you have to set motor direction to reversed.
Set all the step tables to zero - AC step, startup step, power steer, park/neutral, etc. I have reported to link a few months ago that some of these "adjustment steps" invoke by themselves without even a DI assigned to them so there may be some odd bugs in this feature.
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With engine running, and laptop connected, go to ecu settings>triggers>calibrate, then click on "set base timing". This will bring up a new screen where you can set whatever figure you want to lock the timing to. For you probably 10° is a convenient number. The with timing light pointing at pulley, then adjust the "offset" number up or down until the 10° mark on your pulley/engine lines up.
After you click done on that screen you need to hit F4 to save changes to ECU.
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Any recommendations on dash's that feed / display better than others? I'm particularly drawn to the iq3s due to its looks over the RT DASH2 pro but price getting it to the uk is putting me off...
From my experience I would say avoid the IQ3 like the plague. I have had two customers with them, both moved to something else after (multiple) hardware and software issues. Support at Racepak is non existent.
Race Technology is pretty hard to beat value wise. They tend to have a quite a few annoying bugs on the logging side but as a dash they work ok.
If you are just looking for a display (rather than logging), then maybe something like this might fit your budget: http://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-sdm-300-dash-display-new <I haven't tried one yet but have other plex devices that are good and well supported.
AiM MXS Strada is another with similar pricing to RT.
ECU Settings Check Over Help
in G4+
Posted
Hi Matt.
A new dwell table for you is attached. Save this to your desktop, then right click on your existing dwell table then go Import/Export>import from file and choose this new table. This dwell table is still conservative for these coils so you have got some head room to crank them up a little more later if you ever have spark issues but I doubt you will.
Your injector settings are all good.
I had a quick look over the rest of your tune file, didn't notice any major issues. Only comments; You have an IAT sensor setup but you have IAT fuel trim turned off. I suggest you copy these settings out of one of the link Skyline base maps. MAP limit is set quite low - you will only get about 8psi boost before that starts to cut. RPM limit is set quite low.
Ignition Dwell Control (ms).lte