Adamw

I dont really want to even guess with the difficulties in the electronics world at the moment. My feeling is less than a year but thats about as specific as I could be.

Ok, it sounds like you may have a bad connection somewhere. A scope would certainly make your life easier.

This is not a subject I that I have ever researched much so I dont have much to offer. Only that I have seen cars with a sensor or switch on both the low and high side - or only on the high side. But I have never come across one with only a sensor on the low side.

So it appears you have a broken/disconnected or high resistance main ground. Pin 1 should be very near 0V at all times.

Yes, it would need 720 sync for semi sequential.

16/33/34 are nearly always related to power supply. Your battery voltage is very erratic - I think that is the first thing I would look at trying to improve.

If you are sure you are getting no pulse from pin 110 when injector 5 is in test mode then contact tech support to get the ecu inspected. Make sure you are using an LED test light or similar so it is fast enough to see the very short pulse.

Set to semi-sequential, Inj drive 1 to Cyl 1&7 Inj 2 to Cyl 2&8 Inj 3 to Cyl 3&5 Inj 4 to Cyl 4&6 It will then effectively be sequential/timed injection, 1 cyl of the pairs will get its fuel 90deg earlier than ideal, the other cyl will get it fuel 90deg later than ideal.

It would work but modifying the board will void your warranty.

Can you please just follow instructions and answer the questions. We are going to be here forever if you keep randomly changing stuff with no logical diagnosis. Is it showing 100% tps when the throttle blade is closed or open?

Are you saying it will run on either offset?

Scope looks fine/normal from here but would need the actual file to confirm. Have you used the injector test function? What voltage do you have on the injector 5 wire at the ecu connector?

Ok, I can see what is causing that error now. At the point I have marked with an arrow below, the ecu has removed power to the throttle motor (DC goes to zero), when this happens the ecu expects to see the throttle blade move towards closed due to the return spring, but you can see that both the TPS sensors stay at 100% after this point. So this either means the throttle was already closed, or possibly the mechanism is a bit sticky so the spring alone is not enough to move it closed? Does it appear to be working correctly now or is it working in reverse of the pedal?

One potential problem you have there is the trigger 2 edge occurs at almost the same time as the "sync tooth 2" that you have specified, it may potentially cross over that edge under some conditions. Change the sync tooth setting to 15 so it is well away from where the cam tooth occurs, then try your 2 offsets again, 348 or -12. Both will show the timing is correct, but only one will actually allow it run.

Yes, pull the coil and plug out so you can see the spark gap, ground the metal part of the plug. Turn on the ign test for whichever coil you want to test. 1 = cyl 1, 2 = cyl 2.

What trigger mode are you using? Can you do a trigger scope when cranking and attach here.

Ok, this engine looks like it needs the "LS2 90 offset" trigger mode. Are you using this one?

Can you please do a trigger scope while cranking.

Would need to see the specific comment you are referring to - but it sounds like you might be reading a comment about multitooth mode where you want the trigger 2 tooth roughly centered between two trigger 1 teeth - if trig 2 occur too close to trig 1 with this trigger mode then they could cross over each other when there is some backlash in the cam drive system (and this will shift the timing unexpectedly). With missing tooth triggers it is not important.

Injector dynamics have drop in injectors for those. But yes low load running wouldnt be as good it would with staged injection.

Ok, so it sounds like you had trigger issues on the older firmware also. Can you do a trigger scope.

Yes, not a direct replacement for the Thunder, but a higher pin count, more IO ecu with improved capabilities over the Thunder is in development.

Yeah if you want to keep staged inj then you need at least a storm. If its mostly for drag racing I think many of the G4X features would be useful to you - race timer, power management etc. The power management can be used for anti-wheelie control too. A monsoon may still be a possibility if you wanted to change to just 4 big injectors. Otherwise if you want it purely for basic engine control then the G4 may be suitable (gear shift control is very basic digital input only in G4).

The ignition outputs should be close to ground most of the time. I would want them below say 0.5V. Can you measure between the same ground point and ecu pin 1 to confirm what voltage you have there when the ign outputs are showing ~1.3V Can you attach a copy of the tune also.

Can you post your tune. Do you know what firmware you were on before the upgrade? The only update where where trigger stuff was changed that could effect offset was when updating from 6.19 or earlier to 6.20 or later. And that change could only make a max 1 crank tooth difference and only affected some specific trigger modes. So I suspect you have some other issue that just coincided with the update.