Adamw

This is normal, they are effectively connected to the same plane in the ecu but it is how they are routed and what current goes though them that is different.

For the 2nd fuel pump relay - yes you can use Ign 7 or 8 on EXP2 or since you have upgraded to e-throttle, you should now also have aux 5/6/7/8 free on the main header (were originally for the idle valve), so you can use those for other stuff like FPump if you wish. Yes. Ethanol sensor can only be connected to DI1-8, so DI7or 8 on the EXP2 would be fine. You may possibly also have DI3 or 5 free on the main header if you are no longer using the factory IC spray function.

Well you specifically said in your first post that you wanted to figure out how you do it yourself, so rather than do it for you I gave you instructions of the process. There is a finite limit to how much data you can send on the bus so you cant just "send evertything", there are something like 1200 different channels that can be sent in G4+. There is a user configurable copy of the generic dash stream for the ecu in the PC Link CAN folder and I gave you the user configurable .xc1 for the dash in my first reply.

What specific view are you talking about? In that pic there is a standard table in text mode and runtimes value list view.

This would suggest possibly a couple of different issues. Firstly it sounds as though there is a general wiring issue common to all coils - as regardless of jumper settings on that ecu cylinder 1 is always connected to the correct pin, so coil 1 should work regardless of jumper settings provided the wiring is right. Secondly, the coil #2 getting warm may suggest the jumpers are incorrect also. the jumpers affect which header pins Ign 2,3&4 are connected to. Confirm jumpers using the method highlighted below:

You've got way too much accel enrichment I would say, you have ~100% extra fuel being dumped in for only the smallest throttle movement. Drop your accel sensitivity down to about 30, and halve the current values in your clamp table would put you back somewhere closer to what I expect to see.

Correct.

Yes 4 x AEX coil will be fine. Spark edge = Falling.

What engine is this coil from?

Yes, that coil cannot be directly connected to the ecu, it will need a 4 channel ignitor to drive it. You will have only a very weak spark, as soon as there is compression or combustion there will not be enough energy to spark.

Do you have a WRX6X ecu? Or the V3/4?

Yes, it can connect to the original wiring.

That is a dumb coil. Have you fitted an ignitor as well?

The oscillation is also the cause of the auto cal failing. The PID will probably need tuning to improve the loop stability as you will likely find some other operating condition such as a sudden stab will cause it to oscillate also. The PID values you have normally work ok for the ls throttle, but I believe there are a few variations. Motor DC will probably be a little less erratic when the loop is tuned, but it doesn’t look too unusual to me.

So are you saying it is working now?

You need to write a custom CAN template using the CAN protocol builder in RS3 (arrow icon below). At the ecu end I usually still broadcast the standard "MXS" stream since that covers 95% of what you need, then I just add a second user stream with any extra data that you want to send. At the dash end you can set up your CAN template to receive both messages from the ecu. Attached is one I have done that you can modify to match what you want to send. If you open it up and scroll to the bottom you will see I have added "Launch limit" and "launch sw" on a 2nd ID (0x44C = 1100dec at the ecu end). LINK_IGMAB2 Custom_@20220617_010209_005994.xc1

Sweet, it looked like it showed temp 2 going to the oil temp on your drawing, but I’m looking via a phone too.

Yeah you probably did sorry, embarrassing mistake there, I was looking at one of my own maps, you didnt even provide yours. Do you always get that "cannot reach target" error during the cal? Try dropping the proportional gain to 5.5. If that doesnt help, it would be best to do a manual cal. to do this, temporarily set aux 8 to "off" so that e-throttle power is disabled. Then push throttle blade fully closed with your fingers and note down the closed throttle voltages, then push it fully open and again note down the open throttle voltages. Manually type those voltages in to the TPS open/closed settings then set aux 8 back to e-throttle relay, and set ethrottle mode to "ON". See if it is happy then.

You will need to diy a small filtering circuit to "slow down" the signal, otherwise you will just see the fuel sloshing around in the tank with no real relation to level. Something like this:

I suspect your problem may be the "TPS (sub) 100%" setting, it is currently set to 52.5 but it looks like both your sensors are linear for the full span so it likely needs to be 100%. This is normally automatically set as part of the TP calibration process but possibly your PID needs a bit of tuning and it never completes the auto cal. Try this at 100%.

There is no time scale shown in your picture so Im not sure if filtering would help. Im pretty sure you could add filtering with a math channel (I havent tested), but that looks like a relatively slow oscillation, so you would need a long filter which would tend to make it feel very unresponsive - especially where you want fast movement such as during a gear shift. On race cars where I have this sensitivity problem I usually put Speed Vs AP on the DBW target table, then you have a less aggressive curve at low speeds, and at higher speeds when the ride smooths out you can make the throttle translation more aggressive. Example:

Its actually not too bad, but could be improved with some PID tuning. I notice your coolant temp only reaches a max of 70°C in that log, is that as hot as it gets or was it still warming up? If its still warming up this log may not be representative of how it behaves when warm - the oil viscosity can have a big impact on VVT control. I will suggest some changes once you confirm that. The small jitter at idle when target is zero is with the vvt disabled and sitting against the mechanical stop so that isnt going to be improved much. I would just do the cam angle test>cal again when fully warmed up which may zero out some of that error.

All looks good. Just one thing you may not have considered. What have you got your air temp sensor connected to?

Everything looks good in the log and scope. Your trigger offset is possibly 360 deg out so you are sparking on exhaust stroke rather than compression stroke. Try the offset at 266deg.

Assuming they are set to the default lowside drive with active state low, then they will be pulled up to 12v when off.