Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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8 hours ago, wood said:
no topic injestion Duty cycle.
You are probably using old firmware. In old firmware the fault value was fixed at 100%, in newer firmware the fault value can be adjusted by the user.
8 hours ago, wood said:Is this correct or not?
Hard to guess since you havent provided any data. It could be an injector issue, or it could be something like a trigger error causing a spike of very high RPM.
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There is currently no direct control strategy in our firmware for the electronic gates. It is planned in future but is not being worked on yet so is still some time away.
In my experience they are really only an advantage in very high power drag racing applications where you need to do some odd control strategy at launch or for compressor surge that cant easily achieved with an pneumatic gate. In all other cases - especially road going cars the the electronic gate will give poorer control than a pneumatic gate due to the slow response speed.
If you want to use one now the only option is to interface with the ecu via their "black box": https://www.turbosmart.com/product/blackbox-electronic-wastegate-controller/
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It looks like a misfire, you can see the lambda go erratic at the same time. It is heading very rich just before it starts to misfire though - have you tried making leaner in that area?
Are they genuine coils or a good quality branded replacement like Bosch? I have see some very poor performing clones of the Toyota coils.
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You dont need a physical pin for E-throttle relay on a plug-in that has been modified like this. You can assign any unused aux - for example Aux 16.
When you convert to E-throttle you will no longer need an idle valve so that will give you 4 extra auxes (Aux 5/6/7/8) for stuff like fans.
You can also use Ign 5 (purge) and Aux 2 (egr) for other functions if you are not using them for their original purpose.
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Sounds like that would work. The G4+ does actually have Oil & Fuel press CAN inputs so they will work just like hardwired AN Volt inputs (except no error/fault settings for failed sensors or lost CAN bus).
There is a uk company that make a header and enclosure for the ECUm switchboard to make it a bit more finished: https://rkde.ecwid.com/RKDE-Canbus-I-O-expansion-unit-p347885147
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Either would be doable depending on your skill level. Both would probably be a similar amount of work depending how different the pinout is. The multilock connectors arent too difficult to depin and move wires etc. Just be aware there are two different sized pins in the same connector so you wont be able to for example move a small terminal to a position that originally had a big one if required (without chopping and crimping the correct terminal on).
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9 hours ago, thedbaz said:
i for some reason do not have the AC idle up table.
You are in open loop so there is no target. You will need to use closed loop to have targets and idle up offsets.
I would say your main issue is the idle ign set-up, you have it set up very restrictive so it cant increase instantanous torque much when needed. E-throttle alone is too slow to correct for sudden changes in load.
Also I dont like your E-throttle target table, generally it should have zeros across the top row. If you attach a log of a cold start and warm up, then also turn AC on/off a couple of times when warm I will suggest some changes to get it closer.
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The S2000 doesnt even have a CAN bus from factory. I dont know what the factory OBD2 port used but K-Line was quite common for japanese cars in the early 2000's.
So if you want to use OBD2 to communicate with the ecu you will need to either add a second OBD2 port, or run CAN wires from the ECU to the correct pins on the factory OBD2 port (may not be legal).
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The "fuel is clamped at its minimum" is not an error or fault, this is just a notification to the tuner that he is trying to command an injector PW shorter than is specified in the minimum PW setting. It either means the injectors are too big to achieve the small flow rate he is trying to command, or he has the minimum PW setting set wrong. This will only occur at idle or during overrun at high vacuum, so the code would not appear at high speed.
The "max injector duty cycle reached" means you are trying to command more DC than you have set in the "Injector duty cycle fault value".
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That warning means the tuner has left the e-throttle system in "set up mode", so all safety features are disabled. That will not be related to your problem but is dangerous.
If you post logs and the tune we may be able to help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
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8 hours ago, hamza munir said:
hello, i hvae recently bought a 2jz and i want to fix its wiring but i having a hard time in finding the ecu pinout for the ecu that was given to me with the engine, ecu part no is 89601-22220 it has total 4 plugins all in white colour, there is no sticker on the ecu but i can roughly see 4AT/4WD on, i would really appreciate it you could help me find its pinout diagram so i can fix the wiring, thanks
This forum is for support with Link ECU's. If your question is relating to a factory ecu you will be best to ask for help on a toyota forum.
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Yep it’s been in there a while now. There is a set up guide and plumbing diagram in the help file.
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What ecu do you have? Provided the ecu is capable of direct spark then the only change you need to make to the map is change the ignition mode to direct.
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That message will pop up regardless of whether that specific ecu has had the mod or not. So if you don’t know for sure it is worth first trying your CAN device. I can send you the info when I’m back at the office later. Remind me if I forgot about you.
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Can you attach the tune, a log of a start up and possibly running if it does. And a trigger scope of it cranking.
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Sorry Im not ignoring you, just busy as and havent had time to give this some proper thought. Ill try to get back on here tonight or tomorrow.
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Trigger mode should be set to multi-tooth by the looks, you dont have any missing teeth.
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It is illegal for the non original certified vehicle ecu to broadcast emissions readiness messages.
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7kHz works well on my evo VII.
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That cam position sensor looks to be in about the right place so I think your offset should be close enough for a spark to be able to make it out of the distributor.
And it should spark in test mode so that also suggests your no spark issue is no related to incorrect offset.
If it is not the coil then the most likely culprit is the ignitor, this is the this electronic module inside that the coil -ve wire goes to. So swap that if you have a spare.
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5 minutes ago, Ian C said:
as an aside I suffered excessive infant mortality failures with the Bosch 4.9 sensors
Rant time...
That is just innovate being innovate. They used to also spit out the very robust NTK and LSU4.2 sensors at the same rate in the old days when they used to work with those sensors before the LSU 4.9 was even invented.
They control the sensor completely differently than it was ever designed to be controlled so the controller is very sensitive to sensor response time. The founder Klaus was a very smart guy that invented this new measurement strategy which gave very fast response and made control cheap/easy at a time (20years ago) when wideband controllers were a very expensive tuning tool not affordable for consumers. You can read his patent here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US6978655. But when Klaus sold up shortly after the first LC1 was released their wideband controllers never got any improvements or fixes since. Every innovate controller produced since is just a copy/paste and has the same issues the first ones had 20 years ago. As soon as the sensor ages a little or gets too hot or too cold, the innovate will report it as Error 2 or 8 and innovate will tell you the sensor has "failed". It has not failed and will still work on any other LSU4.9 controller that uses proper control. With Innovate controllers it is generally not thermal shock as per the NZEFI article. So dont throw away any sensors the innovate tells you have "failed" until you try it on a non-innovate controller - 99% of them wont be failed.
You can tell Im not a fan - my old boss used to have 8 of them on his engine dyno. We used to go through 8 sensors about every 2 full dyno days there. I still have a filing cabinet full of his "failed sensors" - I'll go through about 2 a year on my dyno - and that is usually only because I drop it.
41 minutes ago, Ian C said:showed that the off side exhaust was leaner (higher AFR reading) than the nearside would you agree that using the Individual Fuel Correction is the right way forward?
You certainly could, but if it is only 2-5% at low RPM I personally wouldnt bother.
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With the resistor in place the deadtimes will likely be quite wrong. It wont be noticeable when everything is relatively stable as the deadtime error will just be "baked in" to the fuel map. But if for example battery voltage changes (ie headlights of fan turns on) then the incorrect deadtimes arent going to compensate for that as well as they should. If you remove the resistor you will likely need to retune the fuel table. You wont do any damage to ecu or injector - just higher risk that all operating conditions wont be compensated for well.
Pin function Confirmation
in G4+
Posted
The power supply for the E-throttle controller has all been done on board from the main ECU power supply. You just need to assign an aux to E-throttle 1 relay to make the software happy.