Monsterbishi

I'd look at the plug gap first, what did you gap them to when you installed them? There are a lot of parts manuals out there that wrongly specify a plug that has a 1.1mm/0.043" gap - it should be between 0.7mm/0.028" to 0.8mm/0.032" We used to run 29psi through our 4g63 powered Mirage with a 0.8mm gap.

Looks like it's blowing out the candles, as it were - what happens when you dial the boost down?

Now that's an idea! I wonder what other goodies I could get them to connect at the same time - the daughterboard is essentially a Extreme isn't it?

It's running my 302w at the moment so I'm bouncing around ideas to see what I can get it to do in the off season

I have a Mazda MX5 Plugin G4+ and have a question about the pinout on it - for the Ign outputs, IGN 1,2,3 and 4 are listed on the main pinout, IGN 7 & 8 are listed as being on Expansion Connector 2, but there is no mention of Ign 5 & 6 at all, are these available for use anywhere or is it one of the physical limitations of the MX5 plugin ECU?

The most common one I come across is that once you've got the ecu re-configured you need to power cycle the ecu, ie pull it's fuse - a normal key off power cycle won't do the job. Failing that, find a Android device that it works with then use those settings on the Windows version of realdash.

Can Lambda manual which includes the pinout: https://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf

Your post is somewhat lacking in information, ie what car, cluster, ecu, etc.

I'd say the biggest problem is the tuner, after five months you'd expect all and any issues identified and/or solved.

Cheers Adam

Picked up a G4+ CAN Lambda unit this week, I see in the instructions that it says to install the sensor at least one metre downstream to avoid overheating the sensor. I was planning on using the factory O2 sensor location but it is situated circa 500mm downstream of the engine (NA 302 windsor) - should I weld the supplied boss further downstream or just use the factory location?

I use a windows tablet, I have my power saving options set to keep the display on when on USB power and turn off the display and then shutdown the tablet asap when it's running on battery, so when I turn the car off the tablet shuts down shortly thereafter.

Or a separate power supply.

There's two things that usually cause issues, once you've enabled the datastream in the ECU you absolutely need to power cycle the ECU, ie disconnect/reconnect your battery then retry. If that doesn't work, it's probably a issue with the tablet itself not supporting serial comms - assuming you have a windows laptop, go into the windows store and download realdash onto it and test the connection using that - then you can switch to the tablet and that will tell you if the tablet is compatible or not.

Put me down for one vote towards bad idle stepper controller and base idle set screw incorrectly set.

It doesn't take long for that to happen if it's in a humid environment, moreso if it's located somewhere that gets hold/cold on a regular basis.

I'm running a Ford V8 off my MX5 Plugin ECU so a V6 should be just fine, as has already been mentioned the main thing is to pair the injectors.

Check the wheel speed sensor ground. Then check that your wheel speed sensor is outputting correctly? Once that's done test the DI connection. Then make sure you have the DI correctly configured for the type of speed sensor, ie reluctor, etc. Then it shall be sorted. Just remember that if it is a reluctor type sensor it may not read at very low speed, and they don't like too many teeth on the trigger wheels either.

If you plug a usb mouse/keyboard into the OTG adapter you're using to connect the S9 to the ECU you can use the mouse/keyboard to configure the gauges, etc easily without even touching the screen :-)

Hi Dave, It takes a bit of time for a update to be approved through the Microsoft store system, if you email the team at Realdash they may be able to give you an idea of when the next version is going to be publicly available which will include the fix for the lag. Cheers, Mark

Problem solved, well, there was never actually a problem to start with - I had the meter on Aux6 instead of Aux5...

ECU is a G4+ Plugin for a Mazda MX5 running a Ford 302w V8 in my Mustang. (Don't ask) At any rate, we have a DI configured as a Stop Switch, when active it kills the Ignition but the Aux5 Fuel Pump output remains hot, is there a setting somewhere that I'm missing?

Just a quick update with regards to the Windows 10 lag issue - I've been in touch with the creator of RealDash who has made some changes which has solved the issue, full credit with regards to the fact that he fixed the problem within 24 hours!

It'll download if you're signed into the forum, it won't work otherwise.

I've just been playing around with this, when I connect a Windows PC the display is lagging by a decent 3 seconds, tried bumping up the baud rate at both ends and in the com port settings but it didn't make any difference. Has anyone run into this issue? Tried two different Win 10 tablets, one Acer, one Generic - When I connect using a Android device there's no significant lag. When I use the Link software there's no lag on the Windows PC(s) too. Is a MX5Link G4+ Plugin running a injected Ford 302w, although that shouldn't make any difference. To contribute to the thread, we found that not all android devices are created equal, we found that two of the tablets we have, a Toshiba AT7-A and a Samsung Tab3 Lite, didn't work, the OS appeared to not recognise the USB serial port. My phone, a Samsung Galaxy Note 2 worked just fine.