Monsterbishi

Your cat would be colder from all the unburnt fuel, not hotter if your ignition system wasn't keeping up. The factory ignition system is more than capable, Honda's engineers built it to happily run for 300,000km - it'll run a V8 and still have enough spark left over to start a BBQ... Post up what you've got in the 'Ignition Main' section of your setup here. Have you checked your base timing?

Have you tried adding/subtracting 360 degrees from the trigger offset?

This would be my thought, if it's sparking, the timing is set and has fuel I'd pick it's trying to fire 360 degrees out of phase. I'd hazard it's one of the most common things that folk do...

Just remember that when you're tuning, a tiny screen means things like the tables become harder to read/edit. I just use a old Windows 10 laptop with a 14" screen, nothing special.

Worked a treat, do the g4+'s have any other Easter Eggs like this, ie undocumented features?

As a unrelated question, a while back you mentioned Link enabling the outbound data stream in the other ECU's like the Storm Black but it hasn't happened yet, is it still on the cards?

It's a Storm, so direct wiring it is then :-)

That's for the new G4X, I'm asking about a G4+.

A quick question, can/should I drive the VTEC solenoid on a early 90's Honda directly from the ecu, or should there be a relay in the equation? From what I've seen online they have a fairly low current draw?

Why did they remove the trigger scope image save button, is that just built into the log save section now?

Just for the records, 17 was bang on the money, to the point of idling whilst cold with no IAC or Idle control at all :-)

Thanks Adam, gives us a good point to start from.

We're just about to fire up a Honda F20B NA motor for the first time and am looking for advice as to what the Master fuel setting should roughly be, it's running 550CC Grams injectors.

They're parameters I haven't logged so couldn't say, will add them to the list for next time, what should I expect to see on them?

I have a G4+ Plugin ECU w/CAN-Lambda connected via a NZEFI CAN cable that is not connecting all the time, sometimes it'll be fine, others it's not, I have it wired to power up at the same time as the ECU to minimise the chance of a timeout event for device detection, and when it's not connected it still detects it in the PCLink software. Any ideas?

I had this issue yesterday, is there any definitive fix for it?

Had a Seal Autocross yesterday, we developed a issue where halfway through the course the car wouldn't go over 3000rpm without hesitating and backfiring, it would come right after the run, and wouldn't manifest itself until the same point on the next run. At the end of the day when we got home I went to pull the logs from the ecu to see if I could get some clues as to its cause but my logging memory was empty aside from a four minute log from what it recorded when I took the car off the trailer and put it in the garage. Any ideas what would cause this?, ecu logging is set to run at 10hz over 200rpm, with no IO conditions, even the log from when we unloaded the car at the track and warmed it up was absent.

Sounds like it's backfeeding through the Aux?, perhaps add a relay into the equation?

Have you made any physical changes, or just software configuration?

Canbus stubs can be quite a bit longer, most modern cars are a veritable spiders web of the things!

I'm just running mine off its battery for the moment but will eventually run it through a OTG setup, I'm just going to make my own - a OTG cable is nothing special, it's 4 wires, two for data, two for power with the power negative tied into the sensing pin at the device end. It means I can use some decent cable that will stand up to vibration better than one made in a factory for 5c.

You probably have some extra log data loaded on one of the machines.

The first order of business is to test the components you have, there's no point in getting out the Visa card until you know whether something actually needs replacing. What is the Wideband/Lambda value doing immediately prior to when the issue presents itself?

As far as tuning goes, what functional differences are there between using the mixture map and the quick trim feature?

There's not much point in even looking at what your boost controller is showing until you sort out where the misfire is coming from, test all the ignition components and then work from there, have you determined whether it is one specific cylinder that is misfiring?