Sheik

Thats awesome Clint - thanks for the reply. Had most of those points checked but couldn't make heads or tails of the shield grounds. Its good to know how it works from the internal perspective too as it confirms that its basically 'just another thing to ground' rather than something unusual. I will assume there will be no issue while its all connected to the factory harness. I also read about passing the shield ground through the bulkhead plugs as well (even though I dont think I will ever be making use of it) by daisy chaining them together and passing them all through a single pin. Was a tidy solution to tuck away for later. Thanks Again

Sorry to resurrect thread - Just finalising the wiring for this project and realised that I dont have my 'Shield/Gnd' pins terminated to anything on any of my plugs. Saves a lot of background if I post here. lol. My understanding is that these are for grounding shielded cables from things like Hall/Proximity sensors. I was unable to find any references to shield grounding anywhere for the Evo so am I safe to assume that the Shield/Gnd pins do not have to be utilised for my particular project? How do our Crank and Cam sensors work if this is the case? Presumably grounded somewhere else in the harness??

Thanks Clint - I was expecting as much, but I was hoping that it would at the very least be the same "sensor" relating to the internals of the unit.

Hi Guys, I just bought this from a local e-retailer. It was advertised as a Link 4bar MAP Sensor (MAP4). It came in that generic plastic packaging you can see on the left and has no branding, packaging, or label anywhere. The physical appearance of the sensor is similar to your own but thats where the similarities end. While I am not concerned about all the 'frills', I am concerned about the quality of the sensor itself, and your reputation. I dont want to waste my time installing it if its not the real deal. I realise that just about everything is a re-brand/re-badge job these days and that these may indeed be your sensors without the branding on it. If thats the case fine, if not, I will probably be asking for a refund as it is false advertisement and inferior quality. Thanks in advance.

This sounds like an awesome piece of kit. Is it a custom job or are you purchasing from somewhere? Would you mind sharing?

Thanks for the input Clint! These were my exact intentions. I am expecting that going from the Link CAN Lambda unit I have now to the onboard digital wideband within the Thunder will result in identical AFR readings and all ignition and injector calculations should also be identical. This ability to transfer the maps was really the main reason I decided to go with the Plugin first over going straight to the Thunder.

Adamw - you continue to answer all my questions with a crazy depth of knowledge and experience. I feel like I more owe you a carton than a beer at this point... You are a serious asset to the company! You obviously know this stuff backwards to pick up that I somehow managed to mix up my findings for the SAS and Evap/Purge systems. My bad on bamboozling things. This is probably not the best thing to be doing at midnight after working 12 hours... To clarify on the SAS - I said Pin 5 on there because on every loom diagram I can find online and in the electrical manual shows Pin 5 having the SAS and Pin 4 as having no function connected to it. With that said, I have been looking exclusively at JDM 8MR diagrams. It is quite possibly one of those ones that hops around. Either way, not a system I will be making use of anytime soon. In relation to the purge solenoid (which allegedly resides on Pin 16), I am indeed a little confused so it would sound mixed up (Pin 16) - My understanding is that this is a separate unit that allows air/fuel vapor to pass through some channel from the fuel tank to a charcoal canister and then into the intake manifold for emissions compliance. Again, glad its not something to worry about. On both of of those systems, my largest concern was the presence controls that you guys may have had hard-coded into the ECU that was not something "transferable" to the Thunder. I totally appreciate that one of these units is basically useless and the other one is for rally. With the Alternator wiring, thats fantastic information! Some day in the future I hope to put this car will be in the 5 digit RPM limiter club. I will make an assumption that adding an extra 3000RPM to the alternator would move it out of its intended operating range and could cause some high voltages. This may be a tool to combat this if it happens. Just like the rest of it, its nice to know its there, but more-so that I dont have to worry about it. For the relay wiring response you get 11/10. Just what I needed to know. The eThrottle info is valuable too as that is a future plan (because Evos need cruise control too...) Will post a build thread when everything is finished. If it goes even half to plan, I think it will inspire at least a couple of other people to follow suit. Very exciting to be able to continue with the project without concerns. Cheers!

TL;DR - Doing a Patch Harness for a Thunder ECU to a 3Plug Evo8MR. Wanting some clarification on parts of the project and some of the translation between the existing Plugin ECU and the Thunder. So I am going to be asking a lot of questions here... Some of them probably deserve their own threads but the list has got too long to split it all up. For this reason, if anyone can comment on any specific part of this post and not the other please feel free to do so and do not feel like you have to answer the whole thing. Also no posting "take it to a shop". This is my hobby so I do enjoy it and don’t mind the time investment. For some background, I have an Evo8 MR which I have installed a G4+ Plugin unit into and tuned myself. It is running great and the whole experience with the software and hardware has been great. With the knowledge in mind of what I plan to do with the car at a later date, I have also since purchased a G4+ Thunder which I am a fairly long way down the rabbit hole of creating and installing via a Patch Harness to connect it to the existing ECU loom plus a Deutsch HD30 bulkhead plug to handle the extra bits. Fun times! However, I am at the stage where I have finished accumulating most of my parts and wire. The majority of my questions have come about from my time spent developing the wiring diagram for this to all work. My wiring diagram has been based of the cross-referencing of dozens of documents, including the thunder diagrams, pinout guides for the G4+ plugin, along with a couple of community created diagrams which I confirmed via the actual electrical manual. Between your G4+ pinout guide and these diagrams, I can see that there are a number of seemingly important pins which you guys do not reference in your pinout diagrams. Some of these are evidently omitted because they dont "appear" within the ECU and thus nobody would need to test or manage them (ie. 5v ground, 12v backup wires). But there is a small clump of others which have no reference or explanation that I would love to get some information on if there is anyone holding such knowledge. The one thing I am hoping is not the case is that the information is omitted because its be controlled 'behind the scenes' and/or proprietary because I will have no way of duplicating the function on the Thunder unit. Thus shooting my "if the plugin can do it, surely this monster can!?" theory right out the window... Furthermore for those of you playing at home, I have a JDM 3plug ECU harness just so you know what diagrams I am looking at. And with that we have the pinout list and the actual questions: Pin 5 - Secondary Air Control Solenoid Valve (Not here to get flamed about still having this installed) - No reference anywhere in pinouts - has a listed pin function of Aux - Ignition 6 - Cant find where it is used/activated on the basemap!?!? Pin 16 - Purge Control Solenoid Valve. This one is referenced on Pin Function Aux Ign 6, but is referenced as Pin 4 on the Pinouts sheet?! I cant find a single wiring diagram that says its located on Pin 4. Again, this isn't referenced by any controls or tables on the basemap. Pin 8 and 52 - These refer to 'Alternator G' and 'Alternator FR' respectively - No reference anywhere in Pinouts OR pin functions. Could not really find much other than speculation about what it did online either. Would love some definitive info here. I would also appreciate some guidance on how to handle main relay wiring using this patch harness technique. My understanding is that the Thunder has its own "Main Relay" so I will need to somehow trigger the existing one. If I can get some tips on how to go about that it would be great! This is one of those things I wouldn't go 'guessing' with as it could blow/melt things if I get it wrong. Will involve a lot of extra reading if someone cant answer this one for me... If anyone can clarify on any of these points it would be awesome - but I am also looking for any overlooked road blocks with this transplant if anyone can flag them. I never really imagined that the Thunder wouldn't work when the Plugin would, but finding these few things that are under the radar, I am asking the question first before I get any deeper. Thanks in advance!

Would be best to confirm which sensor you are looking at on each input before you worry too much about the sensors themselves. Either use a wire trace to find out which one is which, or disconnect them one at a time and see which one loses their reading on the ECU. Make a note of it or label as you go.

I have a screen set up in my car as a HUD of sorts. It would be really cool if there were capability to set up a theme/layout where each page (or all pages while the theme is active) could have an actual image set as the background and all the View elements could be set to transparent.This way, we could have the text data displaying over the top of an image which could be customised to the users preference. As an example - I want to do up a CAD-style image of my car and overlay the data in relevant areas. Basically it would end up being your "vehicle plan" view (which is really cool btw) on crack. No concerns here about image scaling - I will happily do it myself! This be my wish upon a star. I will also take this opportunity to express how happy I am with your software in its current form. It has a great layout, its highly customisable, and it looks really really nice compared to a lot of others on the market. I continue to be really happy I decided to go with Link as my first platform.

Thanks Adamw. Slight shame there is not a tiny bit more customization. I shall drop it into the wishlist! Feeding data out through CAN would probably be the next best option and there is a fair bit of work there to implement. If I get really impatient I will look at putting together the required hardware and interfaces as it would definitely be a great option for a fully custom HUD. Appreciate the idea. I dont like the update speeds of OBD tools either so I think I may just leave it looking "raw" until the programmers find the time to put it in. The programmer in me says it shouldn't actually require much to implement but thats definitely looking at it from the outside and I am sure there are far more important things they need to implement. I know it wont be on top of any priority lists but I can remain optimistic. Cheers.

Hi All, I am planning on using PCLink as a HUD of sorts. On this basis, I was wondering if there was any facility to do the following in any way: 1. Set an image as the background for a page 2. Configure elements to be transparent (so it would just be the data and no background in the actual view element) I am sure you get where I am going with this... Any possibility? Dont mind editing the XML directly if you guys have a call for an image rather than a color. If this is NOT possible - is there some way of live exporting data to CSV? Thinking of creating something custom and just pulling data off the CSV as an alternative. Keen for any ideas or comments if anyone else has set up this kind of thing! Cheers.

Thats magical. Gives me a little more encouragement to get my Thunder wired in!

Minor thread hijack here... Do the onboard wideband controllers in the Fury and the Thunder offer the same kind of functionality as the Link CAN Lambda unit?? I like the zero calibration requirements on the Link CAN Lambda unit and was wondering if it was the same with the onboard ones. Also big thumbs up for the Link CAN Lambda unit if you do need one. Great bit of kit.

Just posting back here. Loosened the two screws and rotated the sensor out of the problem range while checking the values on the ECU. Problem solved and thanks for the response!

Thanks Simon. Makes sense but not something that occurred to newbie me. I will try to rotate the TPS out of the range thats causing problems. Would rather try and keep it within operating voltage ranges so that if something bad does happen, the countermeasures all work correctly. Failing that, I guess I will just have to open-end the top of the voltage range until I get another TPS. Sadly isn't happening today. Will post back once I get to it.

Hi All, I have identified an event where if I hold my foot flat on the accel for a second or two it will throw an AN Volt 3 (TP Sensor) Above Error High error. The rest of the pedal operation is perfectly normal. The standard configuration of 0.05v low and 4.95v high is applied. The sensor also never had any issues while the stock ecu was in the car (not that I could see anything on the stock ECU). Just wanted to see if anyone has any info on this before I go and buy another TP Sensor. Cheers.

For a conclusion on this: Put in the changes suggested by Adamw and tried again with similar results. Decided to stop being so timid and by the book and just fed the car more fuel. I was trying to stick to the theory of having relatively set % increases in VE (in some cases almost 15% between cells in some areas). My car just seems to want more drastic fueling adjustments in the sub 100kpa mark than I have observed in tutorials. Going to assume its a lumpy cam thing. Based on the info that Adamw gave me, I will assume that I would have ran into serious fueling issues later in the tuning process had I not asked this question as my FP Speed relay was not configured. Many thanks for the assist.

Thanks again Adamw. I will give it a crack tomorrow afternoon. Too far into the evening for such shenanigans now. I dont know if it changes anything but I am making a pretty safe presumption (dont know the reality of it as I have not lifted the fuel cradle since I bought the car) that there is an aftermarket fuel pump. I am basing this on 1100cc injectors and E85. Either way it would have been a direct swap-in at a guess as there does not appear to be any changes to the wiring. I am starting to wonder if my Injector Timing event is drastically out due to the head modifications. I noted some variation there for my friends Evo6 tune over mine. His was at 320BTDC instead of the 340BTDC mine is at. More reading tonight and I might try my hand at reverse engineering the ignition advance table from my old ECU with the data I recorded via OBD2.

I have adjusted the accel hold enrichment events to 4 and disabled IAT Trim to no avail. Still have AFR moving around and massive leaning upon throttle. The configuration in place for both accel enrichment setup and the FP Speed both came from the stock Evo9 base map. If it is set that way by you guys on the base map. I am afraid I dont have any information on how to configure the Fuel Pump Control with the existing system and it seems to want duty cycle info so I can see myself cooking a relay somewhere if I put the wrong values in here. Not really willing to "tinker" with it. If you have any data for me that would be awesome, otherwise I may just have to bite the bullet and upgrade my regulator. I was hoping to avoid it for a little longer on account of being broke and those fittings costing a fortune. At this point though, its pretty much a massive unknown variable in this whole procedure. I just hope I dont go through all of this to find I just had shitty injector data. Any further suggestions welcome. Many thanks for your weekend posts Adamw. .

Thanks for the suggestions Adamw. Optimistic about those suggestions and will try them in the morning. EDIT: Posted reply on the phone while trying to multi-task and sucked at it... No car does not have MIVEC. Very interesting to hear about the IAT Trim Table and modelled fueling. Will post back with how it all goes. Cant consciously do anything with the car here after 8pm as the car will wake the dead across town nevermind the kids nextdoor.

Hi All, I realise that this is not really the place for getting help with the basics, but I am going to put my hand up anyway and see if there is any love. Newbie here and just finally got all of my sensors wired up and my ECU in my car. I am experiencing some very interesting AFR fluctuations during the initial setup and would like to request the input of some more seasoned individuals... First of all, the details: Evo 8MR GSC S2 Cams FIC 1050cc Injectors Stock fuel reg (presumed to be 43.5psi) Link G4+ Plugin Link CAN Lambda Sensor, Flex sensor Bosch IAT M&W CoP Kit AJD300 - Day 11 (enrich and overrun changes) 2.pclr Also a MAP EF2 turbo and bigger blah blah blah to support things. Not sure much else is relevant to the issue at hand as the car runs and goes like stink with the factory ecu (tuned with ecutek by a tuning shop on the GC so I cant get to any of the data) installed. I have been able to get the car started and get it idling, revving up, and some very minor back and fourth movement in gear so far. My problem is that under transitional throttle conditions, my AFR goes all over the place. Basically any increase in revs or load (yes even if load remains the same) results in extreme leaning quite linear to how quickly I depress the throttle. Also, if I let go of the throttle in any great hurry, it results in a RICH condition. I have been able to make my way through the rev range to about 3500rpm (while stationary ofc) while being incredibly gradual with it. So long as I increase the revs incredibly slow I dont get massive lean conditions, but that kind of rpm management is not going to be possible in any kind of driving scenario nor does it seem correct to me. I am also noting a fair bit of variation in the AFR at idle between startups, even after warmup enrichment expires. I have tried increasing enrichment values and turning off overrun cut for the time being, but none of that seems to be making any major difference in stabilising things. I have a friend with a very similarly modded Evo 6 who I used as a reference for accel enrich. Would love some suggestions of what to check and test. Part of me is wondering if my injector flow rate is way off the rated flow, or if my dead times are wrong (even though I have data for both). Kind of stumped due to a lack of experience. Have attached the map for reference. EDIT: Added log file AJD300 - Day 11 (enrich and overrun changes) 2.pclr day 11 - 3 (final).llg

HI Simon, Great news. Many thanks for the info and thanks Adamw for letting me know how to go for direct spark at a later date.

Thanks for the quick reply Adamw. Would you place those steps as a necessity or a luxury for better control?? If I were to leave it in its current configuration (wasted spark) and set the dwell times to suit the current coils, would I be able to tune it acceptably? Or do I have to rewire things and get direct spark working? It suits me to maintain factory wiring at this point because I can swap to the other ECU when I have to drive the car (taking my time with the project). Rewiring coils will definitely delete that convenience so I might need to change my plans if that is the case.

Hi Guys, Newbie question here but wanting a confirmation so I dont break anything... I have an aftermarket M&W CoP Kit as seen here (http://www.gtpumps.com.au/ down the bottom. the Denso kit) on my Evo8 which was running along quite happily on the stock ECU. My understanding is that if it was running off the stock ECU, it has to be running in a wasted spark configuration rather than direct spark and that I should configure it as such on the new Link ECU? Do any of the "base map" ignition settings need to be changed to accommodate for them correctly or will they behave fine as is? I assume the dwell times are different from factory too. I found most people referencing very similar numbers to the following for Toyota Denso coils even though they were not the EXACT same model as mine (damn close) 8V 6.3 ms 9V 5.3 ms 10V 4.4 ms 11V 3.8 ms 12V 3.2 ms 13V 2.7 ms 14V 2.4 ms 15V 2.2 ms Confirmation on this would be great too. Cheers.