Richard Hill

Good morning, I am setting up a base map for an RX8, I have wired up the metering oil pump and assigned it to AUX 5,6,7,8 in PC Link. How do I assign the input for the oil pump sensor? In the RX7 I see it is an analog input with a table controlling the % of oil delivery. The RX8 has a switch, how do I set up this switch in PC Link? Do I connect it to an analog input and fudge the Oil stepper table somehow? Thanks in advance, Richard.

No. There is no an temp4, but you could use a spare an volt input with a pull up resistor.

What do your trigger arming threshold tables look like ?

your Trig2 is stuck at 8 volts (maybe as a result of the pull-up I guess, a crank log would help) . Have you checked the wiring to the sensor and the pinouts to make sure you haven't got a short to the supply or a missing ground? You only have 50mV of noise on Trig1 which is acceptable Check your shields are connected (at ECU end only) to sensor ground crank test log and the map would help. HTH, Richard.

Try doing an ignition test with the timing light connected. This will help verify that the timing light itself is working.

In pc link, go to can setup and move your can 1 settings to can2. If it's a custom can setup you can save it, and then reload it on can 2. Turn can1 off afterwards. HTH, Richard.

If it's standard vw wiring (which it appears to be ) then:- Pin 1 and 2 are +5 Pin 3 is ground Pin 4 is Output 1 Pin 5 is ground Pin 6 is Output 2 These are the VW designations, check scaling on out1 and out2. HTH, Richard.

I am configuring the touch start on a Thunder powered auto gearbox car. I have set up the gearbox selector voltage levels so the ECU knows which gear it is in (I have tested each gear and it works great), Park and Neutral show correctly also. However, when I set use Neutral/Park interlock to yes under starter control, the starter never engages! Also, the Neutral/park status never goes to active even when I am in park or neutral AND the ECU knows that! I have concluded that although the ECU knows it is in Park or Neutral, for some reason, the digital input for Park/Neutral has to be wired and active. This is ridiculous as the ECU knows its in park or neutral. ( I can't wire the digital in directly to a P/N interlock switch as it is voltage level based) So it would seem that my only option is to wire a spare aux out to a spare digital in and configure the aux out to be on when "is driving gear"=0 , so the ECU tells itself it is in Park or Neutral ! Maybe not classed as a bug, but certainly needs addressing in the next version of pclink surely. If I turn off Neutral/Park interlock then it will start in gear which is definitely not desirable.

If you don't want to drill a hole in the case , then you can cut and splice into one of the analogue volt inputs for the lambdas on pin 16 (an volt 11) of the main header connector. HTH, Richard.

PC Link 5.6.6 does not pick up the USB drivers for Windows 7 on install. You need to install PC Link 5.6.5 first which will install the USB drivers properly and then install 5.6.6 over the top. It is a problem I reported last week, and has now been confirmed by Link as a 5.6.6 bug. HTH, Richard.

Try setting the Di as anti theft. I don't have access to an ecu at the moment to test it but that might disable the fuel pump too.

You don't have to, the sensors are connected internally so it doesn't matter which one goes where, the ecu automatically windows the signal to detect knock and reject out of band noise

Are you running cats? If so, are they flowing OK?

Brilliant, thanks Adam

Good evening, I am wiring up a 13b engine from an rx8 to a fury, and the only information I am missing is the polarity of wiring the eccentric shaft position sensor. Does any one know what the polarity should be please? The wiring diagram doesn't show the polarity, I don't have the engine, so am unable to do a triggerscope. Many thanks in advance, Richard.

The engine has a crank sensor (Trig1), a cam sensor (Trig2) and 2 VVT sensors (inlet) one for bank1 (DI1) and one for bank2 (DI2). I am using the standard 1uz VVT trigger pattern, engine is bog standard. It has once started a lot quicker, but most of the time requires 5 or 6 crank revolutions to start. As CJ suggested, I will have a look at the logs and do some measurements of the time to trigs active from first crank.

Good evening, I have a 1uzfe VVTi running on a Thunder, which runs great with all the factory features (DBW, ACIS etc). However, it is taking quite a few revolutions of the engine from first crank to start. I have tweaked the fuel for pre-crank prime and crank enrichment and none of them are improving the time to start. Is this just a symptom of the triggers and the time required to synchronise from the ECU? I have installed Link ECUs on engines which have started within what seems like one crank rotation. I would ideally like this engine to start on the first turn (it just sounds nicer when they fire up that quickly to a rock stable idle) Thanks in advance, Richard.

The ECU is not "measurably doing it" (high side driving) , it has a weak pull-up on the AUX outs. A multimeter won't load the output enough to show that it can't supply the current required for a relay. I do agree though that there should be more concise documentation as to which ECUs can support high side driving as the help file released with 5.6.6.3601 a couple of days ago says :- "G4+ Auxiliary Output Specifications: · 1.5k Ohm Internal Pull-up Resister · Auxiliary Drive Low 2A over-current protected · Open Collector (fly-wheeled) in auxiliary output mode. · Aux 5 to 8 High Side Drive (ISC Stepper Mode) 0.5 A. · Aux 9 and 10 (only on: Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, Force GDI and selected Plugin ECUs) Push-Pull drive 4/4 A" I think this is ambiguous as the above bracketed (ISC Stepper Mode) isn't really a fully qualified statement. The monsoon for example has aux 5 and 6 but can't high side drive.

3100H is a pressure transducer with 1 to 5 Volt output, but there should be a longer part numbers to fully qualify the sensor type. The wiring should still be red +5 , black sensor ground .

I have installed several can lambdas and its about 50/50 whether they work or fail with heating too long, undervoltage error and require a capacitor. There is no correlation with the vehicle wiring as we always install them as close as possible to the primary power source with 2.5mm^2 wire. Bizarrely, the bosch specification requires the heater voltage to be limited to 8.5 Volts on power up and ramped up at a maximum of 0.4 Volts/second so I would have thought these conditions could be easily met by any installation. I also have an ecotrons can lambda which I will be trying out soon, the only problem I foresee with that is the lack of encapsulation, I will have to print an enclosure. It does also support variable CAN speeds. The only thing lacking from both of these interfaces is a visual indication of the AFR, but I'm also working on that.

Differential fuel pressure should stay constant. static fuel pressure - MGP = diff. fuel press. (Edited for correction, thanks Adam) This is a log from one of our customers cars whilst under load. It shows the differential fuel pressure remaining roughly constant while the Manifold pressure varies. Just an example of a referenced fuel pressure.

Also, your fuel pressure does not appear to be properly MAP referenced as the Diff. Fuel Pressure does not stay constant, it drops non linearly with increasing boost... but as above, the fuel pressure is dropping way below acceptable values towards the end of the log. (167kPa). HTH, Richard.

do you have any trigger errors? (F12 Run-time values, triggers) Try recording a log and post here with your map, that might shed some light.

if you are running wasted spark, then you will have double the RPM indicated. Set the snap on to 0, and then use the timing offset adjustment in pc link to set the timing to the ref. timing . i.e. TDC or 10 degrees. Make sure you either use Q and A to increase/decrease timing or press enter after entering a value numerically. (Pc link will make a noise when the value has been stored) HTH, Richard.

Go to ECU settings, then select the Aux you want to configure, double click on function and select Tacho from the drop down list. HTH, Richard.