Richard Hill

New firmware is here :- https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0189/1312/files/Spartan_3_ADV_Firmware_1_09.zip?52 You will need a Windows computer with Bluetooth. Instructions are in the zip file. If you have any problems, give me a ring on 01474853219 UK working hours and I can talk you through. HTH, Richard.

If I remember rightly, engine fan logic will only activate once the engine has run.

Yes it will work with the link, I have spent many hours in the last few weeks testing multiple units on our 2jz test bed. What I have discovered is that with the the new firmware and a tweak of the settings its performance is very good. Please see the list below for the settings I have found to work well :- Firmware 1.09 setfilter15 setcanformat1 setcanid950 This will put it into link mode and average the samples (it does read very fast in default mode which can lead to some increased noise in the output) With a filter setting of 15 it still has a good time constant whilst averaging out the outlying readings. HTH, Richard.

Here are the ecumaster egt can definitions. HTH, Richard. Ecumaster Egt2CAN Stream2 ID1553.lcs Ecumaster Egt2CAN Stream1 ID1552.lcs

We always hard code safety into the main ignition table by ramping ignition down quite hard above the targeted/tuned MAP values. We also ramp fuel up quite a lot in these areas too. This is before we add any other layers of engine safety. Belt and braces. HTH, Richard.

Yes, the Atom has a similar boost control strategy to all the other ecus. It has 4 aux outputs any one of which can be used to drive a boost control valve. The only limitation is the number of outputs, you may max out with fuel pump, tacho, boost control and idle valve. We normally use the monsoon for 4 cylinder boost applications, just because you have more expansion capability, but the Atom will work fine. HTH, Richard.

USB over WiFi requires a compatible router. They are about 30 pounds iirc. There is a topic on this forum about it. I would say though that it is not as reliable as a USB cable so I would only use it if I had to. HTH, Richard.

USB extension cables work fine. I have also had success with USB over WiFi using virtual here.

A gp pwm works well driving temperature gauges. Frequency isn't too important as they are generally quite well damped and so the needle won't fluctuate too much. Set up a duty cycle table vs coolant temp. What car is it? HTH, Richard.

Yes and no. The first signs of a problem might be with a hot engine under low revs, so if caught early there is potential to prevent serious damage. If you calibrate oil pressure into the ecu then you could light the check engine light at a configurable pressure. Also, both the 350z cars I have seen had the oil pressure output as per my post above.

As above, try running it directly from a battery, also, have you added any inductive loads into the wiring? Have you got an electrolytic capacitor connected?

Fuel pressure is an input and will require an AnVolt, so either 5 or 6 on connector 1. Boost solenoid requires an output so Aux 6 is available on Connector 2 (assuming your PCB is rev 1.1) HTH, Richard.

What is causing the "dramatic fuel overheating"? We have never come across this problem and use return fuel systems regularly on many different cars up to 900 HP without any issues. The first thing I would look at is putting a temperature sensor in the return line away from the engine to measure what the actual fuel temperature is. Then you will know how big the problem is and work out how to mitigate against it. A returnless system may be the way forward but will not solve the problem on its own (if your fuel temperatures are actually that high) Closed loop fuel pump control is not as simple to setup as a standard regulated return system and can cause more problems than it solves if not implemented correctly. If it turns out that closed loop is the only way to solve the issue then there are a few solutions, the cheapest of which is probably an OEM controller such as a 9D372 which is used on a lot of Fords, Range Rovers and Jags. You will also need a pressure sensor near the fuel rail to give the ECU feedback for its control system. You could also implement an open loop system using these controllers which when set up correctly (with a standard regulator return fuel system) can dramatically reduce the amount of excess fuel pumped around the system. HTH, Richard.

I do believe that Link fulfill all of their advertised specifications as per their limited warranty statement in the current catalogue :- "For off-road use only, not intended for highway vehicles." Nearly all aftermarket ecus are also for track use only and not qualified for the road.

Pin 5 on the a plug to 12 Volts, and pin 25 or 34 on the a plug to ground (only need one ground to bench power) HTH, Richard.

The search for devices function is exclusively for use with a link can lambda, it won't show up any other devices.

Can you post a triggerscope log?

I did wonder if that would work, but wouldn't interpolation be a problem ?

What digital dash do you have?

I have tried powering the ecu from the starter motor terminal, and never had any success. It has always resulted in a big voltage drop caused by the huge transient currents drawn by the starter. Running separate feeds for the ecu and fuel pump should minimise the voltage drops. The situation is often compounded by small, race batteries which in my experience only add to the difficulties.

That's not the issue, I have another unit working with the same stream as posted above. Yes it's in default mode as the 3rd byte is clearly lambda temperature.

Try ecu logging batt. Voltage, this will show you if just the comms is dropping out.

I don't think the ecu is powering off at 8 volts, more likely is that the comms chip is dropping out. I know this doesn't really help but maybe a smaller capacitor would be enough.

I have added the pin numbers to most of the headers. Useful for one off quick installs where a spreadsheet is overkill :- https://shopbhp.com/pages/technical-documents HTH, Richard.