Richard Hill

Yes, Digital inputs can be used to detect 0V or 12V (5 Volts) no problem. And yes you can output Digital Input values over CAN bus.

double click on the file to open in log viewer, then right click in the graph, properties, add parameters, then select the parameters you want to display, then click OK, OK HTH, RIchard.

This is what we use when we want the limit to start below 260kPa

Connect the Yellow wire to a spare Analog input on the Storm, and then select Lambda 1 from the analog input menu. Choose Cal Table 4, and then enter in the following bold calibration values (assuming it is set to factory defaults) the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers or ECUs. If either one or both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR HTH, Richard.

You can also try PWM test on the aux out to give you a constant rpm. Helps me for calibration.

It was a while ago so i'll have to try and remember. That schematic is for the circuit diagram inside. T2685A chip is the tacho interface (frequency to voltage converter IIRC The settings in your map look OK. They look the same as I used. What Aux out is the Tacho wired to? And is it set to tacho in pclink?

We had the same issue when we put a monsoon on an AE86 (JDM digital dash) with a 4AGTE conversion, no rev counter. The only mod i did was to piggyback a 30k resistor onto R4 ( which is in series with the input signal). This fixed it and rev counter has worked fine since. HTH, Richard.

Overall Including tyre, A good way to measure it is to put a chalk mark on the ground at the tyre contact point , then roll the car 10 wheel turns and then re-mark the ground. Measure this distance and divide by 10. If you are in the UK, then the following regulations apply :- the speedometer must never show an indicated speed less than the actual speed. ... However, for all actual speeds between 25 mph and 70 mph (or the vehicles' maximum speed if it is lower than this), the indicated speed must not exceed 110% of the actual speed, plus 6.25 mph. HTH, Richard

Possibly, can you disconnect it and do the ohmeter check as mentioned above? That should show which wires go where.

This is how most multi position switches will be wired. Have you connected +5 to + terminal and Sensor ground to - terminal? You should then get your output voltage varying from the centre tap. If not, try connecting an Ohmeter between the + and - on the switch (without it being connected) and let us know the total resistance. Then check the resistance between the + and the centre tap at each switch position (and then repeat between - and centre tap) HTH, Richard.

What sort of info do you need? The schematic I posted on page 1 should work for a 10:1 divider.

hmm, then the monsoon base map and the help file is misleading!

Ahh my bad, I thought 5 and 6 were high side

Are your trigger grounds ok? A monsoon aux out should easily be able to drive a relay trigger either high side or low side. I would expect about 150mAh current draw given a coil resistance of 80 Ohms.

Aux 5 to 8 can high side drive to turn the pump on or off, although if you want to use a variable speed, and are using the Aux out as a GP PWM, 0% duty cycle will be 12 Volts and so turn your pump on and 100% duty cycle will output 0V and turn the pump off, just set your PWM table up with the temperature versus duty cycle axis upside down. HTH, Richard.

It seems to be a CAN Lambda specific issue as I can power a Fury (and the Lambda heater) from the same wires and not run into any of the issues experienced with the CAN Lambda. Also, the capacitor needs to be as close as possible to the CAN Lambda to minimise any supply problems, this creates another issue which is having an unprotected component in an engine bay which is a harsh environment, I wouldn't expect the cap to last more than a couple of years in this environment.

I have found that the CAN Lambda is quite sensitive to transient supply dropouts. The alternative wiring below is in the new CAN Lambda instructions and includes a 22µF capacitor in the supply to the unit. I have had several CAN lambda units that report faults and the addition of this capacitor has solved the problem every time. I think Link should update the online PDF file to make this the recommended setup, as the diagram below seem to only be included with the new CAN Lambda modules. (IMHO, the addition of the 22µF capacitor inside the CAN Lambda module would solve the problem long term). Regards, Richard.

Remove the boost hose in to the intake. HTH, Richard.

Also, check the CAN tab of the runtime values for errors.

Yes, closed loop boost control is available on the Monsoon. And yes, the CAN bus on a Monsoon will run a Race Technology dash just fine. There is a Dash 2 Pro CAN profile pre-built in the drop down. HTH, Richard.

I've just started building a custom 1UZ VVTi loom and specced an ECU for a customer replacing the standard setup (in a Triumph Stag), and with an Xtreme we quickly ran out of aux outputs. The build is now going to use a Thunder. To run the standard engine functions as implemented on the LS400, it will take at least 12 Aux outs from my calculations:- VVT Bank 1 VVT Bank 2 Fuel Pump ACIS Tacho Ethrottle Relay Ethrottle + Ethrottle - Ethrottle Clutch (PWM 250Hz) Check Engine Light Oil Pressure Warning Light Fan (Viscous on LS400, but I like to add electric for any conversion) Adding Dual Lambda for both banks into the equation (and 3 axis accelerometer, high speed digital inputs, etc.) it quickly makes sense to go for a Thunder. Richard.

ok fair enough, but is there any way you can add the "Ignition idle control" value to the Idle speed section of the Aux Functions Runtime Value? That would help a lot for tuning idle. Or alternatively show the idle ignition value under the ignition tab somewhere and also not show Ign Table 1 as active when it isn't... TIA.

Hi, I am still seeing an invalid status for the Idle Status (in 5.6.6). It shows as a static name (usually crank %DC) even when it is active as per the following screenshot. The only way I can tell if ignition idle is active is by monitoring the Ignition Idle Value. Is this me or still a bug? I am not using an idle valve only ignition idle control, which might be the reason? Even so, I would still expect the status to display something like "Inc. RPM" or "Dec. RPM" the same as when idle status is working with ethrottle for instance. Thanks, Richard.

Temperature sensors tend to have a non linear (logarithmic) response, and 4,5,6 are linear calibrations. Also, the voltage output is dependant on the pull up resistor used so try and find out what pull up the Haltec is specifying.. On an Atom and Monsoon, this will be 1k Ohm, on the higher ECUs the pull-up is selectable. HTH, Richard.