cj

What are you trying to achieve by doing this? I guess it would work in that you could have 2x throttles being controlled approximately the same, but its going to be a much more reliable platform to buy a thunder with 2x ethrottle controls. Theoretically, you could wire up a mechanical throttle as if it were an accelerator pedal sensor, then have the ECU controlling the second throttle as if it were the only ethrottle. Problems with this are 1) you dont have idle control on the mechanical throttle at all 2) there will be some lag between mechanical and electronic but you can tune this mostly out 3) the ECU has to pick *something* to be the TPS value, and in this model that would be the ethrottle, so while you have control over both, there is basically no feedback from the mechanical one. OR you could somehow mount a TPS sensor or similar to the pedal as per a "real" ethrottle pedal, and then have TPS main from one of the throttle bodies and TPS sub from the other. You'd still have no idle control on the mechanical throttle, and you would probably have to disable all the ethrottle safeties (setup mode) because at idle the 2x signals wont match. You'd also have no redundancy in the ethrottle at this point because you only have 1 signal from each. If its 2 throttle bodies feeding a single manifold you *might* be able to sort a sensible idle strategy. If its 2x separate manifolds, you'll end up with different throttle values at idle and I dont see a way you can fix that.

There are 2 things to check here, first one is there is a "spark test" built into the ECU. run this against each coil 1 at a time and listen for the correct coil to click. This tells you that your wiring and cylinder numbering are correct. The next thing is that you cant accurately put a timing light around the low voltage COP feed wires. Even if it will pick up the signal (which it probably wont), it doesnt take into account the time it takes the coil to respond to a firing command. You need to get an old spark lead, pull the #1 coil pack out of the engine, then run that spark lead from the coil pack to the spark plug in #1. Put your timing light around this HT lead.

Your MAP calibration is off. Notice how in your log it says BAP = 97.9kpa? your MAP should read the same value (+/- maybe 1kpa). Yours is 10 off, so all the fuel/spark/etc calculations are going to be wrong. Your config shows a bosch 1.15 bar MAP sensor, is this what you have installed or is it the factory sensor? Try running a MAP sensor calibration (ECU Controls menu at the top) but I dont think it will allow this much difference. Base timing that AdamW refers to isnt mechanical cam>crank sync, it means checking that what the ECU thinks is TDC matches the mechanical TDC. You need a timing light to do this, and on an ez30 you'll need to paint some timing marks onto the front of the engine and the crank pulley as there arent any (good) ones you can use. There are probably 2 indents on the surface of the crank pulley, and when the second mark is straight up is tdc. You need to confirm this by removing the spark plug from #1 and putting a stick/screwdriver/etc in there to verify then paint some marks you will be able to see with a timing light on both the pulley and the block. You'll then need to run the calibtration process at 0deg, or use something to measure 15 deg or so and put a second mark on the pulley here so you can run calibration again with the engine running as it might not idle at 0deg timing.

It sounds like heat soak. Depending on the location of your IAT sensor, either your intake manifold and head soak up lots of heat from the engine but the IAT doesnt see it, or your IAT is in a spot where it picks up lots of warmth from the engine as it cools. One way or another, it means your IAT reading is quite different from the actual temperature of the air entering the engine. It could also be fuel boiling in the lines/fuel rail depending on where the lines are in relation to heat sources. This is only really likely to be an issue in a returnless system and it would have to be really quite hot.

Heres a diagram. Transmission would be on the end next to 5+6. Bank 1 is the bank with 1,3,5 in it. In the link help files this will be the Right Hand bank. Other cams will be referred to as intakeRH, exhaustLH, exhaustRH. Left and right are based on if you rotated the engine to sit in a rear wheel drive (gearbox at the back) Have a read through the link help files for trigger wiring and config for these engines. You will need to wire+configure exhaust position and control solenoid if you want to control the exhaust vvt. The help files only mention intake cams so you'll have to figure out the exhaust side which should be similar. Remember only DI1-4 and aux 1-4 can handle VVT so you'll need to assign almost all of these pins to cam sensors+control (intake LH position will be on trigger 2 but you'll use up all the aux outputs for control circuits.) Regarding you AP/TP calibration, if you press f12 to see runtime values, do the AP main and AP sub values now match to within 0.2ish % and follow each other nicely from 0 to 99+%? If so then AP is OK. When you try to do TPS calibration do you get any errors? Usually if you have the TP motor wired backwards or incorrectly you will get a fault about throttle control not responding as expected, you then try pushing it manually and seeing if your inputs change as expected, then check your TP motor wiring + config.

Can you talk us through this step by step please? When you turn the key to off or accessory can you connect to the ECU via USB? When you turn the key to ON (before starting it) can you connect to the ECU via USB? This sounds like something is wired wrong or you have a really flat battery. Can you post a log of you trying to start it?

The tacho and speedo signal is that simple - the ECU simply sends something like "tacho = 3500rpm, speed = 40kph" and this gets displayed on the dash so cylinder count etc is not an issue. There is a huge additional thing you need to figure out first though.... while the canbus protocol is standard, what each manufacturer sends on it is not standardised. eg some of them will multiply tacho/speedo/other values by 100 before sending them out to allow more granularity in the numbers sent (cant directly do decimal points). You will need to somehow map out what signals the dash is expecting to see - it will expect certain signals to come from certain other devices on the canbus network - you need to know the ID of these devices so you can emulate it, and you need to understand what the values are so you can make the ECU put the right numbers in the right format in the right location within each data packet. Usually you would do this by sniffing the canbus from the live vehicle before you pull out the dash. Is this dash original in your car? if so, some of the signals may be coming from other devices - eg speed is commonly from the ABS ECU, not the engine ECU. In this case you would likely have the engine ECU receiving it via canbus as well rather than transmitting it. The VW canbus specs may be availilble for some vehicles and if you can find this and a dash for the same car you would save yourself a lot of work. [edit] from Adam's post at the same time, it seems a lot of the VW canbus specs are are already avilable in the link ecu's so 90% of the work is already done.

The trigger signals themselves are the same between the EZ30D and EZ30R so you should be able to use the EZ30 trigger mode for trigger1 & 2, and then set the VVT type to Off. Only thing that might be an issue is the older 30D's only had a single cam sensor, whereas the newer ones have one per bank. The bank's both use the same 3 tooth cam wheel but the offset vs the crank is different for left and right. I'm not sure if the older model used the same offset as the left or right cam - the left is supposed to be trigger 2 on the EZ30R's. I suspect the ECU will sort this out for itself but you'll want to check the timing before you fire it up (which you should do anyway, just make sure you actually do it on this engine. FYI the crank is the 36-2-2-2 and the cam is 3 tooth even spaced but cant manually put in complex numbers like the crank has.

Is it limiting at 6300, 6500 or 6700 when it's being harsh, and do you have a log so we can see what is happening? It could be that the settings are too aggressive and the "soft" settings at the start of the limit range are having more of an impact than planned, or it could be that the soft part of the settings are not aggressive enough and its getting past them and hitting the hard limiter that is intentionally harsh as it's there to save the engine and isnt really meant to be hit. Your config looks to be all defaults as far as RPM limits go so shouldn't be too bad but clearly arent quite right for your car.

It looks like that while CL idle is active, whenever you press the throttle to the point where you exceed the AP lockout threshold, it adds 0.4 to the CL idle trim immediately. I cant see where its getting this 0.4 from so it might be hardcoded, or it might be some multiple of your proportional gain or ethrottle base numbers. I assume the idea here is to have it gently return to idle RPM rather than try to "catch the stall" that happens with low ethrottle targets where the RPM can drop really quickly below where you want it. You can see that in the 8 times you blip the throttle, it adds 0.4% for each of the first 7, and between them when you're at 0% AP, the CL logic is actually doing its thing to reduce the CL % as soon as you get off the gas pedal (note at 32.2 sec that the CL number drops from 1.0 to 0.9 and status is DEC IDLE). On the 8th blip of the throttle something different happens though because the RPM is already so high from the current throttle angle, that you are above the RPM lockout for CL idle, and this time the CL% doesnt move at all. In the later part of your log it start off the RPM is too high for CL to kick in and reduce the CL% (so catch 22 here), but eventually overrun ignition trim kicks in and pulls 10 deg of timing (35-36sec) because you are under 0.5% AP and over 1500RPM, which drags the RPM down enough for CL to kick in and start removing the CL trim% until you get back to normal idle at CL 0.1-0.2%. I'm not sure if you set this up on purpose to catch this or its just a co-incidence that it does a pretty good job of fixing the catch 22 of too high an idle RPM for CL to fix itself. As far as how you fix this, you could try changing your open loop trims, proportional gain table, or ethrottle target table by a bit and see if you can influence that 0.4% number that is getting added. You could also try adding quite a bit the the proportional gain table to get it to drop CL% quicker once off the throttle. The link guys might have some info on the background logic at work here as to where this 0.4% comes from and why its being added every time you cross the AP throttle lockout number rather than just the first time like I would expect if its to ensure a smooth return to idle. You could work around it by just not blipping the throttle this many times this quickly so it has time to return to normal idle. I dont think increasing any of the CL lockout parameters will help much - increasing the lockout RPM you are just trading off how many times you can blip the throttle against how bad a high idle you have once you hit the problem. You might somewhat fix it by lowering the RPM lockout by quite a lot - it will still have the same CL % getting added but if the idle RPM exceeds lockout on the first or seconds throttle blips, its only going to be say 200RPM above target anyway and from this RPM you can probably tune your idle ignition control to pull back timing and get you back to where CL idle will work correctly. Its all a bit of a workaround though.

You havent logged a lot of parameters so its hard to check exactly how this happened, but yep your log says you had 40.6* at 185kpa. Looking at your config I think this has happened because you have dual ignition table set in overlay mode (ie table 1 + table 2 = value to use). Looking at the rest of your config you either didnt intend for this to be used at all (4d ign used instead), or you intended to have it in interpolate/switchover mode between the 2 ign tables (table 2 is roughly 1* higher values than table1, and your "enable" switch for table2 overlay is the say DI9 meth switch you use for 4d enable). You probably want to set dual ignition to disabled given you are handling this in 4d overlay anyway.

They are *mostly* independent and will work fine with no connectivity, but you can get some additional control of them via the ECU if you chose to do so. Factory inputs to the SW20 EHPS controller (that matter) are vehicle speed, and PSCT (PS cutout signal), as well as a PS pressure feedback switch that functions like an idle up request. The PSCT signal you can use to cut steering assist fully in certain situations (defaults to on, so obviously you can leave it disconnected if you dont care), and the speed signal you could modify if you wanted - the factory wiring on both the mechanical and electric speedo models runs the speed out from the gearbox straight to the dash, then a separate "speed output" from the dash goes out to EHPS, cruise control, etc. This is still a square wave output so if you wanted to "lie" to the EHPS unit about your speed, or you have changed the wheel size/gearbox sensor/swapped to an aftermarket dash, you could change this wiring so the gearbox feeds the ECU, and the ECU feeds a corrected signal to the EHPS unit + other control units directly.

I think your Accel pedal calibration isnt correct. Try re-running the Accel Pedal calibration, then redo the TP calibration. Code 77 relates to AP tracking, and looking at the last recorded runtime values in your config, your AP main and AP sub are way off. Your values in AP calibration also look wrong - the voltages for main and sub are almost identical which isnt usually the case. See the AP percentages and error counter in the below screenshot I'm not sure how you can even get a code 73 on a plugin ECU, maybe one of the link guys can advise if there is an internal power feed to the ethrottle systems that gets cut off in certain circumstances? I suspect this will go away on its own anyway once you fix the APS calibration.

That steering pump behaviour sounds about normal. I think there is some sort of pressure/steering angle change sensor in there that backs off the pump after a while as you describe. I set mine up so that it cuts the pump assist when engine RPM is under 400RPM (ie so it doesnt put battery drain on while starting or flatten it really quickly if the key is left on. 80A breaker on that circuit so I assume it can draw a lot of power...), and that it cuts the assist when speed is over 30kph (effectively making it a manual rack at anything above carpark speeds) - gives it a more direct go-kart like steering feel. Was 95 one of the beams engines? If the engine that came with the dash had a distributor you will need to do the resistor swap on the tacho. If it had coil packs, you are good to go (its actually the same tacho, just has the smaller resistor installed already). I did a similar dash swap in mine - 91 to 93 or 94 I think as I needed an electric speedo drive. As long as you get the plugs from the donor car wiring, you can follow the traces on the back of the cluster as its only 1 layer thick, and just pull out all the bulbs and hold it up to the light to see what lights are where. From there its a pretty simple task of matching up which wires go where and attaching the new dash to your old wiring. If I can find the diagram I drew up i'll send it your way.[edit - dash wiring spreadsheet attached below] mr2-dash-wiring2.xlsx

Your calibration for CAL1 for fuel pressure and oil pressure doesnt look to be set up. Not exactly required but having done a similar swap into an sw20 recently there are a couple things you might want to add. 1) the power steer pump controller has an input it takes from the ECU to cut steering assistance. This replicates the mechanical pump steering "doesnt work when engine off". Drive any GP output low to disable steering assist 2) If you havent already done it, you need to replace a certain resistor in the tacho to get it to accept a signal from the ECU. Out of the box it will just make the occasional flicker up to about 100rpm DI6 GP speed wont actually register as vehicle speed. DI6 logging will show speed, but it wont register as driven/vehicle speed. You need to set this to LR or RR wheel speed with the same calibration, also set your speed source to the same wheel under chassis>speed sources.

I think you should be able to get a test fire to work on ign5+ but to get the thing to actually run you need to use 1,2,3,4. These are in the factory connector but are by default wired to purge, EGR, and a solenoid that is fast idle or that accoustic intake manifold thing the later 3sge's had or something similar. If you want to keep these functions you should move them to ign 5,6,7 and change your config to match. pinouts should be ign1 = 20, ign2 = 7, ign3 = 8, ign4 = 17 so these are the wires you need to move to the expansion connector (except ign1 obviously) and then connect these ECU pins to your new coils. Check the help file for a diagram.

you want to use ign 1,2,3,4 and have it set to direct spark. Not 5678. Have you wired the coils up like this? http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide Check you have got 12v and Gnd at the coils. The trigger voltage sounds about right, remember that when running its actually spiking up and down quickly to trigger the coils so a typical multimeter will show the number jumping around or an average number which doesnt really mean much. Have you got spark edge set to rising?

Have you set the base timing? Can you run successful spark test to each coil and confirm the cylinder numbering matches the ignition channel (you should hear them click) Those dwell numbers should let it start. I've seen reccomendations for 1zz coils anywhere from about 3.2 @ 14v to about 2.5 @ 14v so you're in the ballpark.

The crank pulley is keyed and there are 2 round indents on the crank pulley itself. When turning the engine clockwise (ie normal bolt tightening direction), when the second one it straight up is tdc. Have a watch of this video to see for yourself, or remove your crank pulley and shine a torch in the timing cover behind it. There is an arrow on the chain pulley that points up at TDC, this means the key on the crank is at 3 oclock position, and the second dot faces straight up. I'll check on the one I have out of the car later on but I dont think there is a mark on the timing cover, so just set the engine at TDC and get your white marker pen and make one. Make a line on the crank pulley instead of just that round dot while you're at it. You can also pull the number 1 spark plug and turn the engine by hand with a screwdriver/drinking straw/anything similar pushed into the spark plug hole to get TDC within a few degrees if the crank pulley is hard to remove.

distance to empty?

As Adam says your TP calibration is off which means the ECU (or us) have no idea whether main/sub or a completely random value is what TPS % you actually have. The target table being 2.5% but needing ~4% might not be such a big deal because you're also getting 1.5% ish added from your base idle table so the target % is around 4 anyway. There is another thing that wont be helping either... your ignition table looks ok but your traction control settings mean it is always pulling 20 deg of timing, so it probably feels really down on power, and when your coming up to idle its running at -5 to -10 deg (ie its bascialy not generating any power and will stall). Either disable traction control, or set the slip percentages to something other than 0 in the tables. (table 2 is always in use in your config)

What does you wiring diagram look like as far as +12v and grounds to the CDI boxes? Are they the factory wires that used to feed the COP's or something new? If you have a partially damaged ground or 12v feed to the CDI boxes, you essentially limit how much current they can draw from the battery, which in turn slows down how quickly they can recharge. The idea behind a CDI box is that it charges the capacitors comparatively slowly (one per channel according to your manual) and then discharges them into the spark plug when fired. If the capacitor isnt able to fully charge between firing cycles, it will either have a weak spark or no spark when commanded to fire. so... my theory is that there could be a loose connection/bad crimp/partially cut wire somewhere in the circuit that powers the CDI's, and that is limiting how quickly the caps can charge. When you test fire it sequentially(cranking), your engine rpm will be about 180rpm , so with some basic math you have 3rpm per second, and with 2x channels per CDI, that leaves ~160ms between firing events (per cdi), and 330ms between firing events per channel. When running an ignition test you only have 100ms between firing events and each one fires both channels, so there is effectively 50ms per cap to recharge if at a fixed current (or 100ms for both caps but double the current requirement, depending on how you think about it). Following this theory through, it means about 1200rpm is also about 50ms between individual channel firing, and so if you get it running, it may well start to misfire somewhere below 1200rpm. because you're seeing the same behaviour on both CDI's, and it used to run ok, you can probably assume any damage is in a part of the wiring that is shared between both boxes. Testing resistance with a multimeter wont show a problem because the current is so low that it wont care that you're wiring is only allowing say 20% of the current it needs to. What you can do though, is set your multimeter to volts mode, and measure from the battery positive to the CDI 12v input while you try to test fire it. If you have a substantial voltage drop between these points it will show up as + or - voltage on the multimeter and will indicate resistance in the wire when current is pulled through it. Be sure to test both + and - sides of the circuit, either one would cause the same issue. It may be easier to disconnect the wires from the CDI and connect a more "stable" but still high current load such as a head light bulb if the multimeter voltage jumps around too much while trying to measure it.

Because you've got 2 slightly different failure modes between left and right side, swap the boxes over left to right and confirm the fault follows the box. Also try swapping front and back outputs and inputs on each CDI box. This will mean your ecu>spark plug mapping is still correct, but you'll be using the opposite channels within the CDI box. Depending on the wiring effort, you could also swap the wiring around so instead of being left and right, the CDI boxes ran front 2 and back 2 cylinders. My idea here is to rule out anything (ie grounding, shorts between certain wires) that is only impacting the front 2 cylinders.

I think you're half right. The VVT system in the ECU allows for this if you have VVT offset for trigger 2 set correctly. Yours is probably not correct - you have the offset as 720degrees, which seems unlikely. Run the cam angle test to figure out the value you should have here As per the help file: I would have expected trigger 2 errors from this being wrong rather than trigger 1 (crank) errors, but it might help.

the builtin resistor on the AN temp inputs is 1k, so you can either re-calculate the voltages on the AEM spreadsheet using this, or you can input the Ohms ratings directly into the calibration. I'm not sure what the calibration for the ford sensor is (what you currently have configured) but the only 1 I could find on google wasnt close at all. The below screenshots show how to calibrate this manually. As far as KPH>MPH of degC to degF, you can configure a mulitplier to do this in the scalars tab of the CD5 app, the "MPH" after the number is just text you can change too. It has some predefined values you can copy - eg KPH to MPH. copy this number into the scalar that is configured for wheelSpeedX in the outputs tab. (multiplied by 10 or 0.1 or whatever the scalar value already is to make it sensible.) Boost target is certainly a parameter the Link ECU can send over CAN but I dont think its its the default CAN template so you'll have to define it yourself on a second channel as a user stream. You'll have to configure the CD5 to receive it too by adding a new can receive message with the same ID and byte position you tell the link to use for the second stream. You'll also need to set up a scalar and output in the CD5 config, and modify the display to include this value.